Sounds nice shame I can't post my video of my Micra, sounds like dump valve
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what did you do to your micra today ?
- Thread starter frank
- Start date
Sounds nice shame I can't post my video of my Micra, sounds like dump valve
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Thanks!!@mikebeal Nice work! Just had a quick look on your build thread as I would like to do this to my pickup project.
Any pics of the chassis cut / engine mount fabrication? I quite intrigued by the process.
Chris.
It won't let me update it as I'm not a full member yet.
I didn't have to cut the chassis at all.
I solid mounted the drivers mount straight onto the chassis rail.
A little more vibration through the car but doesn't bother me.
Took the under seal off the bottom so nice and clean when I weld, cut a shape out from 1.2mm sheet, and tacked in place then filled each holes my battery died for the final picture Whn it was all done,
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done passengers floor today cut the rust out and keep welding as @frank told me, I don't look at YouTube or Micra manual I listen to him, and now it's all done
Took the under seal off the bottom so nice and clean when I weld, cut a shape out from 1.2mm sheet, and tacked in place then filled each holes my battery died for the final picture Whn it was all done,without this mig welder I'll be lost as my stick weld wasn't like this it was burning holes on 1mm rods and my mig is 0.8 wire and it's fine,I welded the bottom as well so it's all safe need to grind and paint, then wax oil, am happy now no more rust,
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where you get your waxoyl azzy and do yopu know how much it cost?
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They about 10 pounds a can from halfords covers all the under car
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Brand new track rod ends fitted today paid 7pounds each
Tools needed for this job is 19mm spanner for the rod nut, and 17mm spanner for the rod end, take the wheel off on safety jacks keep wheels straight, now take the 19mm spanner and loosen the nut
so nuts off and 17mm off the rod, it should put out the hub carrier and then screw the rod until it's off but make sure the 19mm nut is marked and should move from where it was as the wheel will be to much off left or right. Now time to fit the new track rod
compare both and u can see Diffrent
fitting it back in screw the rod end then tighten then 17mm on the bottom rod nut, now u can tighten the 19mm nut now it's all done
this is passenger side sorted
Moving on the drivers side now
Same again wheel off loosen the 19mm nut first but make sure the nut is not too much loose so when u come to fitting it back in its nice and straight. Now this is the bit most ppl get stuck on the drivers rod end 17mm keeps spinning, u can try jacks, mole grips,
or a hack saw, the answer is nothing will work and u be wasting time, since I have back up tools it took me 5 mins to pull this wrench out and took it off without a problem,
when it was off I quick hammer tap on the rod and screwed it out and on the new rod end screw in and on the 17mm nut the tighten up 19m nut and that's all sorted
nice and tight
wheel back on and no play at all coz I have brand new wish bones and track rod ends,
comparing new vs old not sure Diffrent are they geniune @pollyp any problems with theses,
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Tools needed for this job is 19mm spanner for the rod nut, and 17mm spanner for the rod end, take the wheel off on safety jacks keep wheels straight, now take the 19mm spanner and loosen the nut
Moving on the drivers side now
Same again wheel off loosen the 19mm nut first but make sure the nut is not too much loose so when u come to fitting it back in its nice and straight. Now this is the bit most ppl get stuck on the drivers rod end 17mm keeps spinning, u can try jacks, mole grips,
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You can't buy genuine anymore azzy. I went to Nissan to get two, and they said they could get me aftermarket ones only. They just have to tell the customer they're not Nissan if you let them do it.
They look good to me azzy. Like the ones I fitted.
Brand new track rod ends fitted today paid 7pounds each
Tools needed for this job is 19mm spanner for the rod nut, and 17mm spanner for the rod end, take the wheel off on safety jacks keep wheels straight, now take the 19mm spanner and loosen the nutso nuts off and 17mm off the rod, it should put out the hub carrier and then screw the rod until it's off but make sure the 19mm nut is marked and should move from where it was as the wheel will be to much off left or right. Now time to fit the new track rodcompare both and u can see Diffrentfitting it back in screw the rod end then tighten then 17mm on the bottom rod nut, now u can tighten the 19mm nut now it's all donethis is passenger side sorted
Moving on the drivers side now
Same again wheel off loosen the 19mm nut first but make sure the nut is not too much loose so when u come to fitting it back in its nice and straight. Now this is the bit most ppl get stuck on the drivers rod end 17mm keeps spinning, u can try jacks, mole grips,or a hack saw, the answer is nothing will work and u be wasting time, since I have back up tools it took me 5 mins to pull this wrench out and took it off without a problem,when it was off I quick hammer tap on the rod and screwed it out and on the new rod end screw in and on the 17mm nut the tighten up 19m nut and that's all sortednice and tightwheel back on and no play at all coz I have brand new wish bones and track rod ends,comparing new vs old not sure Diffrent are they geniune @pollyp any problems with theses,
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Loving your project mate at this rate you will have rebuilt the whole car into a brand new one lol!
Haven't checked but have you a build blog if not these updates deserve one??
Keep the good work up!
Andy
I haven't done a blog yet but soon have a build no ones done, thanks for commentLoving your project mate at this rate you will have rebuilt the whole car into a brand new one lol!
Haven't checked but have you a build blog if not these updates deserve one??
Keep the good work up!
Andy
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@Andy5077 yestoday floor rust and welded up where I haven't took the few pictures now I got them today so no more rust anywhere,
that's all the pictures and no hopes as I leant how to fill 5mm gaps with my mig welder so the plate welded all perfect fit, am happy so should be mot man. Anyone need help on few bits am here to help
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It probley isn't draining might be faulty altarnator ? What's it read mate
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Without sounding stupid, you did check the fuse with the car doors closed? If they were open it may be draining due to a light being on etc
OP
OP
frank
Club Member
bootlight maybe ?
Partial short to earth on the interior light circuit. Have you had an ammeter across the removed fuse position to see what it's drawing.
Yeah its pulling about 430 mA. I hope i dont have to pull the wiring out
I'm sure it'll be corrosion from the positive to earth. Have a look at the door switches. Also check out the fusebox near the battery. That can suffer corrosion.
Took some pics ready for sale of my very battered 1.4
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Okay great. I checked the coolant and all seems o be well, just under Max as it was when it was last topped up.
I drove home and no such issues, got the car idling now to see if it will do it when it's a bit warmer.
Ill take note and check ot out. Easy access?? Thanks mate
Could well be
Oil light came up on the dash, although I checked the oil and it read 3/4 full... This car is full of mysteries
Layla bud. Which is why I can't understand why she's spitting the dummy.
FB me then boyo
Fitted some roller skates.....
Lol, nice idea.
Just makes it really easy to move the car around the garage so I can work on each side.
C.
That shouldn't come on even if it was showing minimum really for normal driving. Low oil pressure is not good. Keep an eye on that.
Bought these from Thom-micra.
Might keep them this colour.
Thoughts.
Might keep them this colour.
Thoughts.
Actually please do an oil service....
I remember my puntos oil light kept flicking on and off but the dipstick said it was fine.
When I serviced it only 0.5 litres of oil were in the car
Fair. I'll get on that when I can.
loving the bucket seatFitted some roller skates.....
after last engine trail I came up the biggest problem I never knew so step back further wish I did that before
So the chassis legs on the passager needed a bash but hammer would not much it, out came the hacksaw and it was too hard and didn't go in how I wanted it, so came out the grinder
where my hands was that's how much clearance I need so here is what I did
2 cuts and hammered it in as much I needed,
just to show u how much of clearance I got happy that it's working out for me, let me grab my mig and tack the plates in
shape was made with a hammer and it came out nice
first low heat tacks just to hold it in place so I can hammer it in more and keep to right shape each time I go along,
came to the end of the plate and had a nice finish,
that plate was done with easy nice welds now am ready for 2nd plate on top of the cut
cut a plate and tacked it in place then hammered it and shape came out while I welded,
that was all welded and very happy how it came out now ready for black spray over the welds and a bit of oil wax, no @frank more stress and guessing, thanks mate
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So the chassis legs on the passager needed a bash but hammer would not much it, out came the hacksaw and it was too hard and didn't go in how I wanted it, so came out the grinder
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