what did you do to your micra today ?

Have been doing the essential journeys thing, prescriptions and shopping,, no more than 2 miles and not over 30mph For the last 4 weeks. So on Wednesday she couldn’t start🙁 I gave her a charge and took a spin 4 miles up the motorway, 50 felt like Wow! 70 felt like Star Wars!! It was good to get out as it was 4 weeks from I got twated on my bike🙁 guy pulled out in front of me on a 60 mph country road
 

Attachments

Have been doing the essential journeys thing, prescriptions and shopping,, no more than 2 miles and not over 30mph For the last 4 weeks. So on Wednesday she couldn’t start I gave her a charge and took a spin 4 miles up the motorway, 50 felt like Wow! 70 felt like Star Wars!! It was good to get out as it was 4 weeks from I got twated on my bike guy pulled out in front of me on a 60 mph country road
Glad your ok dude, the thing that stuck with me when I did my bike lessons was the instructor saying "just remember, every fxxxxr is trying to kill you so watch everyone"

Sadly accidents still happen
 
I made a video on the sorting of all the issues that were preventing the car from running properly on the ITB's. It now runs like clockwork, now that the MAF is connected! Still need to sort an air filter out! The wiring has been tidied up since the photos were taken!

IMG-1697.JPG

IMG-1695.JPG

IMG-1736.JPG

IMG-1738.JPG


 
Have been doing the essential journeys thing, prescriptions and shopping,, no more than 2 miles and not over 30mph For the last 4 weeks. So on Wednesday she couldn’t start🙁 I gave her a charge and took a spin 4 miles up the motorway, 50 felt like Wow! 70 felt like Star Wars!! It was good to get out as it was 4 weeks from I got twated on my bike🙁 guy pulled out in front of me on a 60 mph country road

Glad to see you're ok mate 😁
 
Okay so its been a rocky few weeks! This post is a perfect example of the little things that can constantly go wrong on a project car! I put this post in my blog https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/the-£80-micra.68694/page-5#post-783820
but I thought it might be interesting to some so I put it here as well, hope that's fine with everyone.

Basically, the car (which is on ITB's) was running on the Micra MAF and it would drive well.

But then, I starting experiencing an issue where the cyl 4 header would get too hot, so much that it would turn blue. And plus I was getting a cyl4 misfire fault code. I ruled out the possibility of a faulty coilpack or spark plug by swapping them over and the problem persisted. I was then told it could be a faulty injector. I put a new injector in and hurray problem solved, for about a day!

Then the fault code came back, and now I noticed that if I start the car and let it idle for a few min, cylinder 4 header would remain cold. I bought an infrared thermometer and discovered that after a couple of min of idling, cyl 1 is at 110deg, cyl2 and cyl3 similar and cyl4 at 40deg! Clearly an issue!

So before it was too hot and now too cold! What is life! So I thought the replacement injector that I put on cyl4 must be almost completely blocked. So instead of buying a new injector, I swapped the injectors from cyl1 (which we know works fine) and cyl4. Cyl1 continued to function correctly and I continued to get cyl4 misfire, thus ruling out the possibility of a faulty injector.

I then realised, there was a small hole on the wall of the cyl4 throttle body, which I plugged with a plastic blanking plug in the past, but it must have fallen out, therefore, allowing unmetered air to seep in/out of this 10mm hole. I sealed this hole up and now cyl4 header still remains cold for about 30 sec, but now, the main difference is that it then shoots up to temp and quickly catches up to the others - confusing right!
For example, after 1 min of idle, cyl1 is at 80deg, cyl2 and cyl3 are similar, cyl4 is at 30deg. Another min later, cyl1 is at 110deg, cyl2 and cyl3 similar, and cyl4 is also at 90deg, so it catches up! I realised that if I adjust the idle to be slightly higher, then cyl4 would take less time to 'catch up' to the other cylinders.
So the idle stands at 800rpm, up from the previous 500rpm. However, I STILL GET THE CYL4 MISFIRE FAULT CODE!

Now I drive the car (still on the Micra MAF) and it doesn't feel right anymore. Lack of torque is very apparent. Before, it used to drive fine on the Micra MAF, even with the cyl4 misfire fault code, so why isn't it driving fine now?! The ECU has been set up by Tornado Systems to run the Almera 0280 218 005 MAF. But, I am using the Micra MAF. This is because I have tried 2 Almera MAF's already with no success at all - I can't even drive off my road on the Almera MAF! It completely bogs down under throttle and eventually stalls.
Note that when you use an Almera MAF, since they don't come with a temp sensor, you have to transfer the temp sensor from the Micra MAF over to the Almera MAF - very easy to do with a tiny screwdriver and some tweezers! But like I said, 2 Almera MAF's later, the car still wouldn't run. It would, however, run fine on the Micra MAF, (although it developed the lack of torque issue recently) despite being mapped for the Almera MAF.

One thing I found VERY INTERESTING is that when using the Micra MAF, I have the cyl4 misfire fault code. When I use the Almera MAF, despite not even being able to drive on this MAF, I get cyl3 misfire fault code. So the cyl misfires are dependent on the MAF?!

After nearly giving up due to all this hooha and nearly buying a DET3 piggyback ECU, which uses MAP rather than MAF, and doing away with the MAF, airbox and Tornado ECU, I decided to give it one more shot, and so I bought one more Almera MAF (and one more Micra MAF for the bloody temp sensor!). The lord must have mercy as this has finally worked! The car is finally running on the Almera MAF. There is heaps more power and torque than when it was on the Micra MAF, so I must have been maxing the threshold of air flow measurements on the Micra MAF!

Cyl3 now still takes a slight bit of time to get up to temp, and I do get cyl3 misfire fault code, but I genuinely am clueless as to what to do with this. As I know that if I put the Micra MAF in, the misfire will move over to cyl4. Like I said though, the car drives amazing now! It idles perfect, and it doesn't even hunt, and there is HEAPS more power and torque due to the Almera MAF!

At this point I am giving up with the cyl3 misfire! If anyone has any ideas, do chip in. I thought this post by be interesting to some as its a
completely honest recount of the troubles I've had with the car over the last few weeks!

I have to say, after nearly 4 years of owning this car, which I bought for £80 back in 2016, I am as excited to drive it now as I was 4 years ago! I just can't get tired of it yet! However, my brother has had his daily car since 2006, so thats 14 years,, so I don't think I'll beat that record, unless of course I keep the Micra until 2030!

Thought I would attach some photos from back in 2016 and some more recent photos! I can't believe how shiny my car used to be back when 18 year old me used to wash it every 2 days lol!

Back in June 2016 on the day my insurance started!
IMG_0451.JPG


Taken Dec 2019.
IMG-0389.JPG


The engine bay as of June 2016, before it had its first ever clean!
iPhone Photos 214.JPG


My first ever clean of the engine bay. Miss the old 1.0 as it was so reliable!
iPhone Photos 228.JPG


Current engine set up!
6.JPG


My first ever wax and polish job back in the summer of 2016! I remember I even resprayed the wheel trims in silver!
iPhone Photos 232.JPG

iPhone Photos 248.JPG


Some more recent photos!
1.png

IMG_0473111.jpg

7.jpg
8.jpg
IMG_0215 - Copy.JPG
IMG_0205 - Copy.JPG


MY PERSONAL FAVOURITE 2 PHOTOS OF MY CAR!
5.JPG

4.JPG


Hope this post brings a smile to people's face during these difficult times. Thanks for reading!
 

Attachments

Okay so its been a rocky few weeks! This post is a perfect example of the little things that can constantly go wrong on a project car! I put this post in my blog https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/the-£80-micra.68694/page-5#post-783820
but I thought it might be interesting to some so I put it here as well, hope that's fine with everyone.

Basically, the car (which is on ITB's) was running on the Micra MAF and it would drive well.

But then, I starting experiencing an issue where the cyl 4 header would get too hot, so much that it would turn blue. And plus I was getting a cyl4 misfire fault code. I ruled out the possibility of a faulty coilpack or spark plug by swapping them over and the problem persisted. I was then told it could be a faulty injector. I put a new injector in and hurray problem solved, for about a day!

Then the fault code came back, and now I noticed that if I start the car and let it idle for a few min, cylinder 4 header would remain cold. I bought an infrared thermometer and discovered that after a couple of min of idling, cyl 1 is at 110deg, cyl2 and cyl3 similar and cyl4 at 40deg! Clearly an issue!

So before it was too hot and now too cold! What is life! So I thought the replacement injector that I put on cyl4 must be almost completely blocked. So instead of buying a new injector, I swapped the injectors from cyl1 (which we know works fine) and cyl4. Cyl1 continued to function correctly and I continued to get cyl4 misfire, thus ruling out the possibility of a faulty injector.

I then realised, there was a small hole on the wall of the cyl4 throttle body, which I plugged with a plastic blanking plug in the past, but it must have fallen out, therefore, allowing unmetered air to seep in/out of this 10mm hole. I sealed this hole up and now cyl4 header still remains cold for about 30 sec, but now, the main difference is that it then shoots up to temp and quickly catches up to the others - confusing right!
For example, after 1 min of idle, cyl1 is at 80deg, cyl2 and cyl3 are similar, cyl4 is at 30deg. Another min later, cyl1 is at 110deg, cyl2 and cyl3 similar, and cyl4 is also at 90deg, so it catches up! I realised that if I adjust the idle to be slightly higher, then cyl4 would take less time to 'catch up' to the other cylinders.
So the idle stands at 800rpm, up from the previous 500rpm. However, I STILL GET THE CYL4 MISFIRE FAULT CODE!

Now I drive the car (still on the Micra MAF) and it doesn't feel right anymore. Lack of torque is very apparent. Before, it used to drive fine on the Micra MAF, even with the cyl4 misfire fault code, so why isn't it driving fine now?! The ECU has been set up by Tornado Systems to run the Almera 0280 218 005 MAF. But, I am using the Micra MAF. This is because I have tried 2 Almera MAF's already with no success at all - I can't even drive off my road on the Almera MAF! It completely bogs down under throttle and eventually stalls.
Note that when you use an Almera MAF, since they don't come with a temp sensor, you have to transfer the temp sensor from the Micra MAF over to the Almera MAF - very easy to do with a tiny screwdriver and some tweezers! But like I said, 2 Almera MAF's later, the car still wouldn't run. It would, however, run fine on the Micra MAF, (although it developed the lack of torque issue recently) despite being mapped for the Almera MAF.

One thing I found VERY INTERESTING is that when using the Micra MAF, I have the cyl4 misfire fault code. When I use the Almera MAF, despite not even being able to drive on this MAF, I get cyl3 misfire fault code. So the cyl misfires are dependent on the MAF?!

After nearly giving up due to all this hooha and nearly buying a DET3 piggyback ECU, which uses MAP rather than MAF, and doing away with the MAF, airbox and Tornado ECU, I decided to give it one more shot, and so I bought one more Almera MAF (and one more Micra MAF for the bloody temp sensor!). The lord must have mercy as this has finally worked! The car is finally running on the Almera MAF. There is heaps more power and torque than when it was on the Micra MAF, so I must have been maxing the threshold of air flow measurements on the Micra MAF!

Cyl3 now still takes a slight bit of time to get up to temp, and I do get cyl3 misfire fault code, but I genuinely am clueless as to what to do with this. As I know that if I put the Micra MAF in, the misfire will move over to cyl4. Like I said though, the car drives amazing now! It idles perfect, and it doesn't even hunt, and there is HEAPS more power and torque due to the Almera MAF!

At this point I am giving up with the cyl3 misfire! If anyone has any ideas, do chip in. I thought this post by be interesting to some as its a
completely honest recount of the troubles I've had with the car over the last few weeks!

I have to say, after nearly 4 years of owning this car, which I bought for £80 back in 2016, I am as excited to drive it now as I was 4 years ago! I just can't get tired of it yet! However, my brother has had his daily car since 2006, so thats 14 years,, so I don't think I'll beat that record, unless of course I keep the Micra until 2030!

Thought I would attach some photos from back in 2016 and some more recent photos! I can't believe how shiny my car used to be back when 18 year old me used to wash it every 2 days lol!

Back in June 2016 on the day my insurance started!
View attachment 69087

Taken Dec 2019.
View attachment 69072

The engine bay as of June 2016, before it had its first ever clean!
View attachment 69088

My first ever clean of the engine bay. Miss the old 1.0 as it was so reliable!
View attachment 69084

Current engine set up! View attachment 69075

My first ever wax and polish job back in the summer of 2016! I remember I even resprayed the wheel trims in silver!
View attachment 69083
View attachment 69082

Some more recent photos!
View attachment 69073
View attachment 69071
View attachment 69076View attachment 69077View attachment 69078View attachment 69079

MY PERSONAL FAVOURITE 2 PHOTOS OF MY CAR!
View attachment 69074
View attachment 69080

Hope this post brings a smile to people's face during these difficult times. Thanks for reading!
Glad to see the micra working like a champ again with the new ITB setup. Will you be making a update video on your channel about this. Keep up the great work 😁
 
Glad to see the micra working like a champ again with the new ITB setup. Will you be making a update video on your channel about this. Keep up the great work 😁
Thanks Haidhur!
And I want to do a proper driving video next as I feel like its been delayed enough lol, and I'll put the maf issues into it! I guess I need to film it while on the way to do essential shopping etc as I'd rather not flout the lockdown rules, as everyone around us is putting a lot of effort in to stay at home and I want to follow suit!
 
Thanks Haidhur!
And I want to do a proper driving video next as I feel like its been delayed enough lol, and I'll put the maf issues into it! I guess I need to film it while on the way to do essential shopping etc as I'd rather not flout the lockdown rules, as everyone around us is putting a lot of effort in to stay at home and I want to follow suit!
Yeah understandable. Can't wait for the upload and stay safe (y)
 
We're so close to 1000subs, thanks for the support!

Finally got the chance to a proper 0-60 run on the Micra after the bike throttle bodies! It performed better than expected and has shocked me a little! I NEVER expected under 6 seconds!

We took it very seriously to the point of even emptying the windscreen washer fluid to save a couple of kg lol!

 
Had a totally mad idea this morning, lockdown is making me have crazy thoughts.... or is it?

I have the same year and colour Micra as Rauf here. I tried to "chrome" my steel wheels when I first got the car, but to be honest it looked pretty naff, I also bought some wheel trims on amazon as the originals were kerb scuffed pretty bad.


I am wondering if it would be good or bad to colour code the wheels and do away with the trims. The "chrome" now has again rusted slightly but I have no idea how to eliminate it fully as you can see they started pretty bad.

Cheers opinions would be appreciated.


We're so close to 1000subs, thanks for the support!

Finally got the chance to a proper 0-60 run on the Micra after the bike throttle bodies! It performed better than expected and has shocked me a little! I NEVER expected under 6 seconds!

We took it very seriously to the point of even emptying the windscreen washer fluid to save a couple of kg lol!

 

Attachments

Had a totally mad idea this morning, lockdown is making me have crazy thoughts.... or is it?

I have the same year and colour Micra as Rauf here. I tried to "chrome" my steel wheels when I first got the car, but to be honest it looked pretty naff, I also bought some wheel trims on amazon as the originals were kerb scuffed pretty bad.


I am wondering if it would be good or bad to colour code the wheels and do away with the trims. The "chrome" now has again rusted slightly but I have no idea how to eliminate it fully as you can see they started pretty bad.

Cheers opinions would be appreciated.
Did you put any clear coat on the wheels, that helps. I didn't put any on mine and this is what resulted in 😂
 

Attachments

I did my steel wheels gloss black and it's stood up really well over the years, my trims are painted dark black so the whole thing is black and red

(the bumpers are colour coded, but the pinstripe and door stripe, as well as some cutouts on the front and back bumper are black, I think they were black from the factory but had faded to dark grey)
 
I did my steel wheels gloss black and it's stood up really well over the years, my trims are painted dark black so the whole thing is black and red

(the bumpers are colour coded, but the pinstripe and door stripe, as well as some cutouts on the front and back bumper are black, I think they were black from the factory but had faded to dark grey)

Wow sounds a nice combo, would be nice to see a couple of pics.
 
I used sand paper and a dremmel with a wire wheel. I must admit I probably didn't do a great job as I am not very good at this sort of thing lol
I also tried respraying two VERY RUSTY steel wheels!

On the first one, I spent around an hour sanding it down and then spraying it. However, the rust started to show within a few months.

On the second one, I spent around a week prepping it! Every night, I would put vinegar all over the wheel (absolutely soak the wheel in vinegar) and then in the morning, wash it out and sand for an hour, then do the same thing that night etc.

After around 7 days, all rust was removed off the wheel. Then instead of using the spray paint that I used on the first wheel, I used Hammerite rust treatment - this is a thick gloopy pink paint that you apply with a brush. After a few coats of this, the wheel was left to dry for a day, then I finally sprayed it in black! Two years later and not one bit of rust!

It is a very lengthy process :(

The finish isn't the same smooth finish that I got on the first wheel (mainly because the pink paint is so thick), but the advantage is no rust.!

iPhone Photos 1434.JPG

iPhone Photos 1426.JPG

iPhone Photos 1442.JPG

iPhone Photos 1449.JPG

iPhone Photos 1473.JPG

iPhone Photos 1481.JPG
 
I also tried respraying two VERY RUSTY steel wheels!

On the first one, I spent around an hour sanding it down and then spraying it. However, the rust started to show within a few months.

On the second one, I spent around a week prepping it! Every night, I would put vinegar all over the wheel (absolutely soak the wheel in vinegar) and then in the morning, wash it out and sand for an hour, then do the same thing that night etc.

After around 7 days, all rust was removed off the wheel. Then instead of using the spray paint that I used on the first wheel, I used Hammerite rust treatment - this is a thick gloopy pink paint that you apply with a brush. After a few coats of this, the wheel was left to dry for a day, then I finally sprayed it in black! Two years later and not one bit of rust!

It is a very lengthy process :(

The finish isn't the same smooth finish that I got on the first wheel (mainly because the pink paint is so thick), but the advantage is no rust.!

View attachment 69713
View attachment 69716
View attachment 69717
View attachment 69715
View attachment 69714
View attachment 69718
Nice job man, didn't think about the Hammerite rust treatment, that should help for sure.
 
I also tried respraying two VERY RUSTY steel wheels!

On the first one, I spent around an hour sanding it down and then spraying it. However, the rust started to show within a few months.

On the second one, I spent around a week prepping it! Every night, I would put vinegar all over the wheel (absolutely soak the wheel in vinegar) and then in the morning, wash it out and sand for an hour, then do the same thing that night etc.

After around 7 days, all rust was removed off the wheel. Then instead of using the spray paint that I used on the first wheel, I used Hammerite rust treatment - this is a thick gloopy pink paint that you apply with a brush. After a few coats of this, the wheel was left to dry for a day, then I finally sprayed it in black! Two years later and not one bit of rust!

It is a very lengthy process :(

The finish isn't the same smooth finish that I got on the first wheel (mainly because the pink paint is so thick), but the advantage is no rust.!

View attachment 69713
View attachment 69716
View attachment 69717
View attachment 69715
View attachment 69714
View attachment 69718

Pretty similar process, though I admit, I didn't spend quite as long as 7 days on one wheel. all four wheels took about a week. but I am thinking of just saving up and buying a new set of wheels at some point.
 
Last edited:
Pretty similar process, though I admit, I didn't spend quite as long as 7 days. all four wheels took about a week. but I am thinking of just saving up and buying a new set of wheels at some point.
Yeah as soon as I saw my white steelies rusting I bought a set of honda alloys and got them bored out to fit the micra's hub. I then painted them gloss white. I'm sure alloy doesn't rust compared to steel which is why I also bought them and I prefer the look of them.
 

Attachments

Yeah as soon as I saw my white steelies rusting I bought a set of honda alloys and got them bored out to fit the micra's hub. I then painted them gloss white. I'm sure alloy doesn't rust compared to steel which is why I also bought them and I prefer the look of them.

They look great. This is an option for me, would alloys increase insurance by a lot?
 
Top