Urgent: Camshaft replacement qeustion

S

Swordfish

Hi,

we were planning to replace the 1.0 camshafts for some 1.3 camshaft. when we took of the camshaft cover we saw the text ''1300I'' on the camshafts. does this mean we already have some 1.3 camshafts in in the engine?

here are some pictures of it:

img1065b.jpg


img1064k.jpg


img1063mt.jpg


img1062pn.jpg


So can someone tell us how we can see if its a 1.0 cam or 1.3?
 
no youre not that lucky lol it isnt thats what i thought when frank told me when he was gonna change mine.
 
People we got a problem. the bolt of a bearingcap just snapped when we were thightening the bolt. do you guys have some sugestions how to get the bolt out?

Edit: also a question is if we can combine a 1.0 exshaust cam with a 1.3 inlet cam.
 
why does everyone snap those bolts ? fwn, a very sharp punch might worg it out, or a drill and easyout bit.
and you can fit one cam at a time if you want :grinning:
 
Ok we got the inlet cam in, but we dont dare to place the exhaust cam cause of the snapped bolt. So can we drive with a 1.3 inlet cam and a 1.0 exhaust cam?

We are going to try it with a easy-out bit.

edit: can we also use regular Rust Free Steel bolts as a replacement for the bearingcapbolts?
 
ok thank you for the reply. the nissan dealer is closed and the steelwarehouse is still open. so we can still continue :)

edit: is there much difference between two or one 1.3 cams?
 
Swordfish said:
ok thank you for the reply. the nissan dealer is closed and the steelwarehouse is still open. so we can still continue :)

edit: is there much difference between two or one 1.3 cams?
Click to expand...

the biggest gain is in the inlet cam imo (the 101hp CGA alpha engine had a wilder inlet cam, and an exh cam that was tamer than a stock 1.3) :grinning:
 
ok im thinking to just replace all bearing cap bolts for some RustFreeSteel Imbus bolts (to be sure nothing snaps) and also replace the exhaust cam.
 
hmm we drilled a hole in the bolt but it refuses to come out. how much force do the caps have to endure while driving? cause is it a option to just not put a bolt in one hole of the bearing cap? its the 2nd cap from the right.
 
Swordfish said:
hmm we drilled a hole in the bolt but it refuses to come out. how much force do the caps have to endure while driving? cause is it a option to just not put a bolt in one hole of the bearing cap? its the 2nd cap from the right.
Click to expand...

a bit risky :eek: and there,s no metal around the hole to fix a steel strap, i think i would drill the hole and fit a selftapping bolt personally (either that or another head eh :eek:)
 
Long shot, and you've probably looked at it, but is there any protrusion of metal from the snapped bolt above the head? IE, being able to grip with some pliers or anything, even if it's a struggle.
 
You might be able to use a normal metal drill bit (make sure its sharp) and use it in reverse, it can cause the bolt to work its way free (worked for me :D)...be very careful if you use another type of bolt as these seem to be designed so you break / stretch the bolts first and not the head threads.
 
we got the bolt out of the head :D but with a huge struggle. we tried some rust free steel bolts in the head but it seems they also arent the best way to do it. so temmorow my brother goes to a garage for some bolts or else we are going to get some genuine nissan bolts from the dealer.
 
Yeah we have had it with the stainless steel bolts. The won't get very fast. The 6Nm fitting round goes OK, but the 11 Nm is won't. We break a stainless steel bolt also. I Think the stainless steel is softer than normal steel. So I go to a garage where the car is maintenaince and if they don't have the bolts I order a set by the nissan dealer.
And what is less torque? 9 NM?

Other quistion.
At the outlet cam fits the ingnition timing. What does the car when it is turned 180 dregrees around?
Does the car start or runs it not at al?
 
Guys? :upside:

At the outlet cam fits the ingnition timing. What does the car when it is turned 180 dregrees around?
Does the car start or runs it not at al?
Can break something?
 
Badmuts20 said:
Guys? :upside:

At the outlet cam fits the ingnition timing. What does the car when it is turned 180 dregrees around?
Does the car start or runs it not at al?
Can break something?
Click to expand...

the slot is offset badmuts and will strain the drive coupling, it will probably fire the wrong sparkplug and injector, tho it may well run in a fashion with the plugleads swopped over :eek:
 
Alright thats what I thought.
It is nice to know that nothing can break if it is not good fitted.

I'm now hoping it is installed right. Otherwise I have to bolt off the Ignition timer.
I don't wanna get de outlet cam out again. It is a hel of a job to get it in with the ignition timer still on.

Before we do this we mark the ignition on a couple of places.

Butt first we must get some new bolt from the dealer for the cams. So saturday we hope to get the running.
 
We have taken the cams out but not the gear. Zo de cam is fitted back as the old one is come out.
We marked the point from the gear on the chain. Those are the same when the 1300cc cams fitted in.
This should be okay. I turn the engine round, when it is fitted, on the bolt of the outletcam before we put the cover on. If there is some trouble with the valves I will probebly feel it.

We put the timing in its TDC. Zo the cams where situated as on your picture. So are the 1300cc cams placed right in.

We didn't marked the ignition timer, because there was a point on it. But after we fitted in the 1300cc cam it turned around and we discovered that ther was a point also. :down:
Because we strugle with putting in the cam we don't keep in the head to keep the ingintion timer. :(
So it could be fitted right or 180 degrees of.
 
Yup, we dit not take the chain loose from the gear, so the camshafts should be automatically in the same positions as the 1.0 camshafts, right?
 
hmm now if i look good at the picture i see that your maybe right (black perm. marker on one tooth to the left). so i need to turn the inlet cam one tooth to the left :S. i cant remember that the sprocket got from the chain :S
 
Hey frank we moved the sprocket one tooth. after that we fired the engine and everythings allright :D the engine is running smooth and a bit more responsive. my brother cant say if it gained any power because he doesnt drive much in the car.
thanks again for your help ;-)

[video=youtube;ssSyKKMpgRk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssSyKKMpgRk[/video]
 
It did cost me about 30 euro in total incl. gaskets and stuff. I also felt the car was more responsive and the car pulled more in het high revs. So i think it was a nice mod.
 

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