Unplugging airbag sensors! Eek!!

It never bloody rains does it. So like an idiot, while looking for the radiator temp sensor I inadvertantly unplugged the front airbag sensor (the one that sits atop the slam panel) and although I reconnected it, I now have a flashing airbag light.

Is this solely because I unplugged the sensor while the battery was connected? And for bonus points, is this business of disconnected and shorting the battery cables as a solution to turning the warning light off, an urban myth or does it work?
 
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Well that's a big fat no then - tried and failed.

But if anyone can answer the question about did I cause it by unplugging the sensor 'live' that would be useful.

And is there a cheap code reader that would let me delete errors like this one?
 
Well that's a big fat no then - tried and failed.

But if anyone can answer the question about did I cause it by unplugging the sensor 'live' that would be useful.

And is there a cheap code reader that would let me delete errors like this one?
Yes.

Can bus data comms monitor sensors & an open circuit triggers a fault mode until reset.

Cheap DIY code readers do not address air bag modules.

Best free option is to creative “improvise” call out AA/RAC who have professional code readers to hand.

Good luck. :cool:
 
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Yes.

Can bus data comms monitor sensors & an open circuit triggers a fault mode until reset.

Cheap DIY code readers do not address air bag modules.

Best free option is to creative “improvise” call out AA/RAC who have professional code readers to hand.

Good luck. :cool:
Thanks for that, I feared as much. :(

Sadly I'm not in the AA as we're in France but I have to drive the old girl back to the UK (together with a family visit) for Mot and a couple of small jobs, one of which needs an EML reset so I'll be deploying the cheapest fix there is...two inches of black electrical tape over the warning light LMAO.
Yes.

Can bus data comms monitor sensors & an open circuit triggers a fault mode until reset.

Cheap DIY code readers do not address air bag modules.

Best free option is to creative “improvise” call out AA/RAC who have professional code readers to hand.

Good luck. :cool:
Many thanks, that's reassuring at least.

No AA here in France but I have to take the old girl back for one last MoT before I register her here next year and I have an EML which I suspect is a dodgy lands sensor (garage 'fixed' it last MoT and said it was something else but I came back within a few weeks) so I can get reset done then. Until then it's the el cheapo fix - two inches of black electrical tape over the warning light LOL!
 
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I did Black tape as well at no cost. :)
Yes I love a good technology solution LOL. I don't do the drive so much now but I used to come from the Pyrenees all the way up to the Lakes (about 1500kms) in various Nissan Terranos, and even a trusty old K11 and I was forever whacking tape over non-urgent warning lights. 24 hours in a car with a poxy yellow light winking at you all the way can do things to a man :))
 
Hi, maybe disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, then connect battery once all connections are back in place, then use the cars cpu own self diagnosis test might reset this problem.
To perform this test do the following:
1) turn on the ignition and reset the trip a&b, then turn off the ignition.
2) then turn the ignition back on AT THE SAME TIME AS HOLDING DOWN THE TRIP BUTTON.
3) release the trip button once the ignition is still on.
4) then press the trip button 3 times to start the self diagnosis.
5) this will check all parameters including all sensors.
6) To exit the self diagnosis, simply turn off the ignition.

Hope this works for you.:unsure:
 
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Hi, maybe disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, then connect battery once all connections are back in place, then use the cars cpu own self diagnosis test might reset this problem.
To perform this test do the following:
1) turn on the ignition and reset the trip a&b, then turn off the ignition.
2) then turn the ignition back on AT THE SAME TIME AS HOLDING DOWN THE TRIP BUTTON.
3) release the trip button once the ignition is still on.
4) then press the trip button 3 times to start the self diagnosis.
5) this will check all parameters including all sensors.
6) To exit the self diagnosis, simply turn off the ignition.

Hope this works for you.:unsure:
I might be missing a nuance here but I tried it exactly as you've written - the only wrinkle being that both trips are already at zero because of the battery disconnect - but I held the button down anyway for the couple of seconds it normally takes to reset each one but when I go back in after Step 3, it just cycles through Clock and Trip A to Trip B. Do I need to be doing anything else? Should I see a message to say that diags are running or does it just happen in the background, in which case how do I know when it's done? Sorry to be such a clown. In case it's a newer function, this is an 05 plate 1.2 Sport?
 
Just keep doing the test as layed out, you know the cpu will perform its own test and you can tell by the speedo and tacho that go back and forth as it goes through its tests. remember its not a guarantee only a suggestion. mine is a 2006 sports diesel and had trouble with the engine temp light not coming on, I got no joy so got a OBD 2 readout unit that clips on the dash which is plugged into the OBD2 port all the time, this gives me water temp (from the sensor unit and other info like rail pressure charging voltage and fuel consumption/range) all this for £20. turned out my speedo unit was defective but not worth the hassle in changing when this little gauge tells me more!!:oops:
 
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Just keep doing the test as layed out, you know the cpu will perform its own test and you can tell by the speedo and tacho that go back and forth as it goes through its tests. remember its not a guarantee only a suggestion. mine is a 2006 sports diesel and had trouble with the engine temp light not coming on, I got no joy so got a OBD 2 readout unit that clips on the dash which is plugged into the OBD2 port all the time, this gives me water temp (from the sensor unit and other info like rail pressure charging voltage and fuel consumption/range) all this for £20. turned out my speedo unit was defective but not worth the hassle in changing when this little gauge tells me more!!:oops:
Well it beats the old"three dials in a Halfords console bolted to the a-pillar!

I'll keep trying but I wonder if the diesel ECU is a bit different? This one's a 1.2 petrol Sport. Still, we shall see! Thanks for taking the time to reply:)
 
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Well sadly, despite umpteen tries, it's a no-go. I'm going to make an educated guess and say your Renault diesel probably has a different, Renault ECU on it with different capabilities compared to the Japanese built petrol engines. But it was worth a try! Many thanks again.

Paul
 
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RESULT!!!!

In desperation I tried this that I found elsewhere on the site..worked first time, no more airbag light! Must be wine o'clock!! 😳😀

Meupnorth
  1. Turn the ignition from off to on.
  2. The airbag warning light will stay on for approx 7 seconds, as soon as it goes off (within 1 sec) turn off ignition.
  3. Wait for more than 3 seconds.
  4. Repeat steps 1- 3 two more times.
  5. Turn ignition switch back on again
 
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Turns out it was whine o'clock.

Two steps forward and about ten back. I'll post a new thread in the hope of a wider audience because it's gone all NATS on me. Basically I removed the plug from the rad fan temp sensor which has three wires. I should have known better....

I shorted two to see if fan would work, nothing. So I shorted two more and...yes, sparks.

Now the fan comes on, unbidden, with the ignition and the NATS light is on so bloody thing won't start. Oh well.
 
Just a thought, but remove battery leads, then wait 10 mins, and check all fuses in ( under the bonnet and in the console near the drivers right side dash. put the wiring on the fan back to how you found them. It may have shorted a fuse or two, if you find any blown fuses, replace them, If you don't have any spare use one from audio etc that are not important to try to get the car started. once all fuses are checked reconnect battery and see if she will start. If it works I suggest you wire the fan through a solenoid and separate switch to flick on inside the car when you need to, and get the ECU checked at your first opportunity.🤔
 
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Just a thought, but remove battery leads, then wait 10 mins, and check all fuses in ( under the bonnet and in the console near the drivers right side dash. put the wiring on the fan back to how you found them. It may have shorted a fuse or two, if you find any blown fuses, replace them, If you don't have any spare use one from audio etc that are not important to try to get the car started. once all fuses are checked reconnect battery and see if she will start. If it works I suggest you wire the fan through a solenoid and separate switch to flick on inside the car when you need to, and get the ECU checked at your first opportunity.🤔
Thanks for the reply.

I'll work through that process I think but I'm not optimistic for a couple of reasons. Firstly, as you may have seen from my other thread, I tried shorting the connection on the plug to the fan temp sensor and it blew something somewhere so that the fan now comes on with the ignition. That tells me there's a permanent short somewhere that I'm not sure a blown fuse would cause? Then of course I have no way to reset NATS without towing the car to a garage which in France costs a packet, so its currently looking as if she's doomed. :(
 
Thanks for the reply.

I'll work through that process I think but I'm not optimistic for a couple of reasons. Firstly, as you may have seen from my other thread, I tried shorting the connection on the plug to the fan temp sensor and it blew something somewhere so that the fan now comes on with the ignition. That tells me there's a permanent short somewhere that I'm not sure a blown fuse would cause? Then of course I have no way to reset NATS without towing the car to a garage which in France costs a packet, so its currently looking as if she's doomed. :(
Who or what gave you the idea to short fan/sensor power supply connections? :eek:
 
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If you undo the wiring to the fan that have been shorted out , check the fuses because the wiring will no longer be shorted it will then give you a fighting chance to sort the fuses and hopefully get it started up, remember fuses are there to protect your electrical system from shorting out, so provided you undo the shorting wiring, you may have a chance to turn the clock back. I too have been fighting with the wiring loom to the boot, eventually it turns out to be broken wires in the loom that have become brittle over the years where they come out of the car body and into the hatch lid! so i ran separate wiring to to lock and fitted a switch next to the mirror adjusters ( there was a spare blank just for me) so now I open the boot with this switch instead. no more chasing old wiring!:unsure:
 
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If you undo the wiring to the fan that have been shorted out , check the fuses because the wiring will no longer be shorted it will then give you a fighting chance to sort the fuses and hopefully get it started up, remember fuses are there to protect your electrical system from shorting out, so provided you undo the shorting wiring, you may have a chance to turn the clock back. I too have been fighting with the wiring loom to the boot, eventually it turns out to be broken wires in the loom that have become brittle over the years where they come out of the car body and into the hatch lid! so i ran separate wiring to to lock and fitted a switch next to the mirror adjusters ( there was a spare blank just for me) so now I open the boot with this switch instead. no more chasing old wiring!:unsure:
Good suggestion.

I'm probably forced to keep going for the simple reason that I can't even scrap the flipping thing here. I have a french registered Passat that's being cartes off next week no problem but there is literally no process for dealing with cars on foreign plates so I have to try and get it going even if it's to drive it to the woods 😂 Crazy bloody country this is.
 
Scrap vehicles are regarded as dangerous “Toxic Waste” & the French are more long term forward thinking than the UK in not allowing other nations to dump their trash there.

Looks like good environmental housekeeping or more simply avoiding problems by thinking ahead & side stepping them? :)
 
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Scrap vehicles are regarded as dangerous “Toxic Waste” & the French are more long term forward thinking than the UK in not allowing other nations to dump their trash there.

Looks like good environmental housekeeping or more simply avoiding problems by thinking ahead & side stepping them? :)
You obviously don't know anything about how the French "deal" with rubbish and waste disposal generally. Most villages have a local ravine, often with a watercourse, where people dump just about anything and everything, and it occasionally gets bulldozed. Local dechetteries often don't have any plastic recycling whatsoever, it all goes into landfill. Walk round the outside of many scrapyards and you'll find leakage of everything from vehicle fluids to god knows what. I could go on but I won't.
 
I guess that they have enough of their own toxic waste to deal with then unlike the UK that sends ours to be dumped in poor countries such as Africa, South East Asia & until very recently to China when they refused to be no longer dumped on by the Worldwide polluting UK. :eek:
 
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I guess that they have enough of their own toxic waste to deal with then unlike the UK that sends ours to be dumped in poor countries such as Africa, South East Asia & until very recently to China when they refused to be no longer dumped on by the Worldwide polluting UK. :eek:
You'll be trading your toxic Micra in for a pushbike then I assume?
 
I have never scrapped or traded in a vehicle or bought from a dealer in 46 years of driving.

Always buy privately other’s old banger leave offs cheap as chips & run them until they become too ropey for my liking, as I spend nothing on repairs, when I always sell them on with 4 months MOT & get back more than I paid for them.

Running my present 1998 K11 for 4 years & is now in its 23 year on 50 K & I expect to run it for another 4 years of trouble free almost cost free motoring.

That will do me nicely thank you K11 with minimal toxic waste. :)
 
I hope your endeavors prove to work and you get back on the road, I myself like old cars, you can at least work on them, not like new one's, I think they are a disaster waiting in the wings, twitchy electric everything and whole parts discarded by main dealers as the cars are designed NOT to be worked on, I have had a few new one's and they can keep them, they are a bit like washing machines years ago you could just change the drum bearing, now the bearings are smaller and encased in a plastic drum, so it the whole lot going to the skip as the products are designed for a limited life to keep us buying them on a regular basis!! With the Electric cars the rubbish generated by discarded batteries is going to be huge. I have been waiting to drive to Spain for months now so have been renewing parts on the underside of the car as it is bad for sourcing parts. :unsure:
 
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I hope your endeavors prove to work and you get back on the road, I myself like old cars, you can at least work on them, not like new one's, I think they are a disaster waiting in the wings, twitchy electric everything and whole parts discarded by main dealers as the cars are designed NOT to be worked on, I have had a few new one's and they can keep them, they are a bit like washing machines years ago you could just change the drum bearing, now the bearings are smaller and encased in a plastic drum, so it the whole lot going to the skip as the products are designed for a limited life to keep us buying them on a regular basis!! With the Electric cars the rubbish generated by discarded batteries is going to be huge. I have been waiting to drive to Spain for months now so have been renewing parts on the underside of the car as it is bad for sourcing parts. :unsure:
Totally agree, I hate waste personally. You driving in the Micra to Spain then? If you get round to it, few tips...unless you're in a rush, avoid the autoroute 8n France. Tolls aren't cheap and fuel prices are horrendous. On the plus side, there are regular rest areas every 20kms or so where you can stop overnight (none of the 2hr ####e you get in the UK), also some on the Route Nationals but less of them.

Car and parts prices here are more expensive than the UK and although I live just north of the border, I couldn't tell you what they're like in Spain. Fuel is quite a bit cheaper though down there, while in France it's typically slightly less than the UK in most areas.

Hope you make it - we all need an adventure every so often :)
 
looks like I will have to delay my trip again as borders shutting down again soon. hope you have made some headway with your electrics?:oops:
 
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Yes it's a damn shame. It's the Spanish border areas that are affected too so they're watching nervously this side, although the whole southwest of France was a green zone throughout.

I think given that the rad fan temp sensor receiver circuit that I managed to blow up must be inside the ECU, I'll try and source a scrapper from eBay. Still not clear how NATS got affected but that's cars for you!
 
Yes it's a damn shame. It's the Spanish border areas that are affected too so they're watching nervously this side, although the whole southwest of France was a green zone throughout.

I think given that the rad fan temp sensor receiver circuit that I managed to blow up must be inside the ECU, I'll try and source a scrapper from eBay. Still not clear how NATS got affected but that's cars for you!

Nats is integral on-board the ECU.

Replacement ECU & keys will require Nissan dealer code matching to the BCM, IPDM, ABS, EPS, TB, dashboard instrument binnacle, & stereo in order to reinstate can bus digital data coms handshake between ECU & digital sub assemblies.

May be more economical to test & repair existing ECU?

Good luck.

References: https://www.ecutesting.com/

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=ECU+Repairs,+UK
 
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