Tyre stretch.

Littlewood

Here comes the BOOM!
Do regular tyre places offer the service?

What are the limits?

Etc.

I'm looking to buy smaller tyres for my existing alloys.

Current setup is 185/60/R13 on 5x13".
 
you,ll need more than 5" to get any stretch tho eh :)

Not if you use motorbike tyres :p

My local tyre place wouldn't fit less than 175's on my 6.5j rims as they said it's against the law. Kwikfit looked at me like I was retarded, they don't have a clue about anything in that place.

You'd be better off doing it yourself. It's just like a pushbike tyre but with bigger spoon handles ;)
 
You are going to need to go to 7" to get a decent ammount of stretch. My 6"s don't cut it. You need to keep a bit of width to the tyre to keep it looking good (imho).

155/70 on a 7" I'd have to go down to 135 to get that stretch on the 6"

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Check out http://www.tyrestretch.com/index.php and you'll get an idea how relative tyre size and wheel widths compare.

Your best bet for fitting outside manufacturers recomended maximums is to get friendly with your local independent tyre merchant, having said that the part worn place I randomly called the other day about some 175/60s were quite happy to try and get them on the 8"s.

Theres plenty of videos on You Tube of folk fitting stretch tyres on rims using the hairspray method to seat the bead.

This is rather neat too.
 
ive just blasted a 175/60 on a 7" rim, using the 'aerosol' method, worked a treat, not too much stretch, well hardly any but its noticable, i have a set of 165/55's to go on my 7" rims when there done. should give a little more stretch.

fitting tyres is easy on unpainted steel rims, as you really have no frar of damaging them so just attac it with 2 crowbars, but if it were a nice painted one or an alloy, id take it to a tyre place, even if they refuse to blow it up just get them to fit it flat and then take them home and do it with the aerosol.
 
ive just blasted a 175/60 on a 7" rim, using the 'aerosol' method, worked a treat, not too much stretch, well hardly any but its noticable, i have a set of 165/55's to go on my 7" rims when there done. should give a little more stretch.

fitting tyres is easy on unpainted steel rims, as you really have no frar of damaging them so just attac it with 2 crowbars, but if it were a nice painted one or an alloy, id take it to a tyre place, even if they refuse to blow it up just get them to fit it flat and then take them home and do it with the aerosol.

would like to see some images of this (Y) also reply to my PM(s) :)
 
Sometimes even the best drivers misjudge. I was fine in the K10 but the wheels were never where you expected them to be on the k11.
 
i know tyre spot do strech give them a try, they did my mates mk1 golf and when she takes a corner more than 25mph you can hear the air leeking from the tyres :O
 
This is something I would personally never do. Some people do stretch them to the limits so they are running on the sidewalls practically and it's bloody dangerous IMO. I'd love to see someone on a trackday with stretched tyres lmao.....wouldn't take them long to find a gravel trap. Sure for shows if you want that look, but on the road? I'm always aiming for the middle of the manufacturer's recommendations with regard to rim sizes. Such as a 185/555R15 slick on a 7" rim or no more than a 195/45 tyre or a 195/50 if we're talking semi slicks.
 
forgive my ignorance but ive never heard of tyre stretching before.. anyone want to fill me in? :)

Tyre stretch is fitting a narrow tyre to a wide wheel, often using a narrow tyre outside of its manufacturers recomended maximum width.
There's quite a few reasons why a choice to do this might be made.

Looks/Fashion - It's pretty fashionable, and goes hand in had with wide wheels, particuarly in dub/euro circles. In some scenes it has evolved from wanting to look like racing tyres, and run racing width wheels, Bosozuko and Grachan evolved from emulating the style of the 70's and 80's race cars.

Clearence - Its the only way that really wide wheels can be run on very low cars, check out crocains above, if the tyres were wider they would be rubbing on the arches. This is the case in pretty all the scenes where it is used be it Euro or Shakotan, or where it seems that the idea really originates the US lowriders of the '60s. Which leads nicely into reason two,

Tyre avalabiliy - traditionally there just haven't been the wide tyres avalable, back in the 60's the lowrider builders just didn't have the tyres to put on their wide wires, the Japanese building grachan/boso/yankee cars in the 70's/80's/90's didn't have tyres that fitted on the really wide, often race rims or massively banded steels so regular tyres were stretched on, also going hand in hand with reasons one and two.

Legality - I'ts also used to keep the tyre tread under the arch, as the wording in some county's vehical use laws is that the tyre tread must be covered, but the side wall and wheel rim are not mentioned.

Side wall flex - stretching the tyre stiffens up the side wall, which along with clearance is why it can be seen on drift cars, with a stiffer side wall the break away is more instant and can be better for starting and maintaining the drift than with tyres with more flexable side walls where the break away is more progressive.
 
a 185 on a 5j rim? thats a bit overkill?

im running a 155 on a 5.5j wheel and every tyre place ive been has put them on, no bother:

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When i get some decent wheels for mine, ill be going 13x7 with a 165/55/13 tyre on:

7_165_55_R13_Nankang%20%282%29.jpg
 
would like to see some images of this (Y) also reply to my PM(s) :)

as promised, both tyres are 175/60/13, the tyres i will be fitting are 165/55/13,

they are in pairs, 5" then 7" respectively for comparison, just note that the 7" rim is not pumped up as there is no valve in the rim, if it were blown up it would seat better,

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sorry for crap pics there off my phone
 
a 185 on a 5j rim? thats a bit overkill?
im running a 155 on a 5.5j wheel and every tyre place ive been has put them on, no bother:

That's not too bad actually.

Here's what's suggested for wheels/tyres:

Rim width | Min width | Ideal width | Max width
5,0 Inches | 155 mm | 165 or 175 mm | 185 mm
5,5 Inches | 165 mm | 175 or 185 mm | 195 mm
6,0 Inches | 175 mm | 185 or 195 mm | 205 mm
6,5 Inches | 185 mm | 195 or 205 mm | 215 mm
7,0 Inches | 195 mm | 205 or 215 mm | 225 mm
7,5 Inches | 205 mm | 215 or 225 mm | 235 mm
8,0 Inches | 215 mm | 225 or 235 mm | 245 mm
8,5 Inches | 225 mm | 235 or 245 mm | 255 mm
9,0 Inches | 235 mm | 245 or 255 mm | 265 mm
9,5 Inches | 245 mm | 255 or 265 mm | 275 mm
10,0 Inches | 255 mm | 265 or 275 mm | 285 mm
10,5 Inches | 265 mm | 275 or 285 mm | 295 mm
11,0 Inches | 275 mm | 285 or 295 mm | 305 mm
11,5 Inches | 285 mm | 295 or 305 mm | 315 mm
12,0 Inches | 295 mm | 305 or 315 mm | 325 mm
12,5 Inches | 305 mm | 315 or 325 mm | 335 mm
 
Isn't anyone concerned about a possible reducion in grip?

I've read several times now about the negative effect this has on the grip a tyre gives.

I guess anyone who does this is after "all show and no go"
 
i wasn't concerned as i didnt know and dont think it does, how can it?

its the same tyre, thus the same ammount of tread on the road. the reason im doing it is for reduces sidewall flex.
 
@mark.

ive been experimenting with a steel wheel i had spare, ive always wanted banded steelies, minimum 7 inches.

done lots of research on the subject and done lots of practice welding,

anyway this is what i came up with, its the standard 5" steel cut in half, the center taken out and a 2 inch band welded in.

i did a few calculations on paper at roughly what i wanted the offset to be, i calculated an et+50 on the front would be best, as it is easier to measure from the front lip to the centre i calculated that the "front spacing" needed to be ~35mm.

so i pressed the center back in the now 7" wheel to get the 35mm, fitted the wheel back on and it looked like this

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wasnt impressed, not enough pokey outy, thought, needs another 10mm, back in the press

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press in another 10mm.

refit

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alot better, could go another 5mm maybe, but ill blow a tyre on at some point and have another look.

right onto the rear, fitted the same 45mm front space wheel, looked lost in there.

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oh that needs another 20mm at least i thought, anyways back in the press

out it came with a front spacing of 90mm

trial fitted that.

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lookes better, again could possibly go a bit more, but ill blow on a tyre and re-evaluate at the weekend hopfully.

couple of pics of the 'dish' on the back one

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the et's of the wheels in the pics are as follows,

front +39
rear+14

ill probably end up with something like,

front +35
rear +10
 
If you want stiffer sidewalls get runflats, I don't think stretching would change the grip of the tyres as the same patch is in contact with the road, I just wouldn't do it myself.
 
what you done scott, self banded ? :eek:

yes frank, its just more of an experiment really at the moment, im in talks with a guy from weller wheels and needed a wheel i could try different offsets on before i hand over my hard earned cash.
 
Tyre stretch is fitting a narrow tyre to a wide wheel, often using a narrow tyre outside of its manufacturers recomended maximum width.
There's quite a few reasons why a choice to do this might be made.

Looks/Fashion - It's pretty fashionable, and goes hand in had with wide wheels, particuarly in dub/euro circles. In some scenes it has evolved from wanting to look like racing tyres, and run racing width wheels, Bosozuko and Grachan evolved from emulating the style of the 70's and 80's race cars.

Clearence - Its the only way that really wide wheels can be run on very low cars, check out crocains above, if the tyres were wider they would be rubbing on the arches. This is the case in pretty all the scenes where it is used be it Euro or Shakotan, or where it seems that the idea really originates the US lowriders of the '60s. Which leads nicely into reason two,

Tyre avalabiliy - traditionally there just haven't been the wide tyres avalable, back in the 60's the lowrider builders just didn't have the tyres to put on their wide wires, the Japanese building grachan/boso/yankee cars in the 70's/80's/90's didn't have tyres that fitted on the really wide, often race rims or massively banded steels so regular tyres were stretched on, also going hand in hand with reasons one and two.

Legality - I'ts also used to keep the tyre tread under the arch, as the wording in some county's vehical use laws is that the tyre tread must be covered, but the side wall and wheel rim are not mentioned.

Side wall flex - stretching the tyre stiffens up the side wall, which along with clearance is why it can be seen on drift cars, with a stiffer side wall the break away is more instant and can be better for starting and maintaining the drift than with tyres with more flexable side walls where the break away is more progressive.
Great explanation lol, appreciate it, thanks :)
 
Nice work. You going to show off any pictures of the welding? How did you shape the hoops?

cheers mark, i did get a few pics the night i did the wheel, but it was gettign dark and the pics were all grainy, didnt realise till a came to trancser them off last night, and couldnt be bothered to go back out and take some more.

the hoops were tacked in place then seam welded in and out then the beads on the inside were ground flat so the centre woud go back in.

what might not be immediately obvious is that ive reversed the rim also.

to roll the rings/hoops i made myself a ring roller, almost identical to this one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Flat-Bar-Box-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item3a5755f775

ill try and get some pics of that tonight too.
 
sorry robbing thread again

for marks attention really.

altered the offset of the rear wheel by 5mm as mentioned before, blew one of my 165/55/13 tyres on and had a trial fitting.

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unfortunately it sticks out a little far it catches the arch lip and will rip the plastic trim off, i think it needs to go back in about 10mm.

i then tried the same wheel on the front

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sticks out a bit far for me but doesnt catch at all, so atleast i know i can make just one spare and hav it as universal fit.

couple of the stretch involved

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not great pics but a couple of the welding

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You might want to take them rims in for some balancing now :p lol

when i get a spare wheel hub (hopefully off ken this week) ill reset the offset to what i want and tack in the centre, ill try and ballance it as close as i can and then take it to a local tyre shop to have them look at it, if alls ok then is fab 3 more.
 
looks good! (Y) now for some criticism: wash your car! lol hate to see a nice car being filthy lol good luck (Y)
 
looks good! (Y) now for some criticism: wash your car! lol hate to see a nice car being filthy lol good luck (Y)

im on for a winner if the only criticism is to wash my car, lol.

this time of the year you wash it today, it needs doing again tomorrow, plus when i wash it shows up all the work that needs doing on it.
 
im on for a winner if the only criticism is to wash my car, lol.

this time of the year you wash it today, it needs doing again tomorrow, plus when i wash it shows up all the work that needs doing on it.

i know but it looks good clean! even for an hour lol
 
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unfortunately it sticks out a little far it catches the arch lip and will rip the plastic trim off, i think it needs to go back in about 10mm.

Nah, that's perfect, the tyres look just right, not too much inner lip & nice rounded stretch. Mod the arch lip not the offset! I would absolutely love to see this rolling on staggered offset banded stock steels, with exactly that tyre/arch relationship front and rear. And an inch lower without the plastic arch lip I'd be in micra nirvana!

Got that rolling on those wide steels and you sir will be a hero!
 
the plastic arch extension goes under the arch lip where ist supposed to fasten on with a screw, my arches are already rolled (hammer job years ago? so its only really the arch extension thats stopping it, as i want to keep them, as they go with the bumper and sideskirts, i think what ill do it modify them and then stick them on so there is no underhand with the arch.

thats a weekend job after my big end bearings.

the wheels take about a day each to dis-assemble, cut, tack, reweld and re-assemble, and a day for all of them to paint etc, so around a weeks work, ill keep plodding on and see how they turn out, the main thing tho is to see if it will ballance up.
 
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