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'turbomicra'

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RYB

RYB



Alternator relocate ahead of turbo fitment. Just 2 bearings on a stud with nuts securing them as a tensioner. 4pk belt I had lying round till I get a 6pk in the post in 2 days time.


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RYB

RYB


Picked up a spare engine in case I blow it boosted on track.


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RYB

RYB


And here's the money shot.
It's a gt1549 turbo from an almera 2.2 diesel. It's water cooled which is obviously better than my previous gt1544. Similar to my old Frank made turbo kit it's a maniturbo, the oem manifold cut off below the lambda and the turbo housing welded on. It then has a 2.5 to 2 inch downpipe with a v band connection on it and an adaptor at the end to suit the oem exhaust. This did get fitted yesterday but I had a small clearance issue with the nipple for the wastegate pressure line touching the rad, which would have caused it to rub through with engine movement. I've ordered a replacement which will be here Tuesday ready for fitting for the trackday Friday.


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RYB

RYB

Long needed write up. I'll skip to the good bits. Booked a track day for march 16th at castle combe. Tried to fit the turbo the weekend before, but the boost feed nipple for the wastegate line touched the stock rad. So I ordered a wee little classic mini 'racing' radiator with a fan.

This arrived Wednesday night, so heathed it in ready for turbo installation Thursday (day before track day!!!!)


Thursday was a sod of a day. Spent the morning flushing and rebleeding the cooling system. Then started the turbo install.

The magic shot. I ran out of time to remove the bonnet latch and fit hoodpins to make room for my intercooler so had to go non intercooled.

Fitted my 6:1 rising rate fuel pressure regulator and qg18 injectors.
Quick test drive Thursday night and on my little voltgauge hooked up to my narrowband sensor getting a lovely 0.8/0.9 volts (rich) at 7/8 psi. Happy days. Leaks oil a little from the sump (I've never been able to seal a sump ) but oh well.
 
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RYB

RYB

Much to the annoyance of a few Facebook group members I'm sure, the car survived 9 sessions at combe. All of which hard as I have a spare engine and trailer at the ready should it blow!


Roughly 15 minutes a session and could do 3 hot laps in a row before needing a cool down lap, then hard on it again. Powerwise was great. On the straights it Kept up with my mates 100hp jdm starlet and mx5s etc. Run of the mill cars like e36 bmws didn't get past me so easy either
The corners it was appalling however. Cut springs and t1r's are not good enough simple as .
Still had fun though!
And drove the car home at the end of the day which is the important thing.
Been fine today too. Think the fuel pumps getting a bit weak as it's getting a bit slow to ramp up the fueling but I've got a walbro on the way so no worries there.
Hopefully have the intercooler fitted tomorrow and we can maybe get some serious suspension and tires on it for next time .


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RYB

RYB

Current spec of car:
Cg10de coilpack
Gt1549 from an almera diesel welded onto a stock manifold in place of the cat. Internal wastegate cut open and spring cut to lower boost from a bar to half a bar (complete guess work which paid off luckily!)
2.5" to 2.0" downpipe the v band fitment to the turbo (welded on an adaptor to the turbo for a completely different turbo!)
Adaptor after downpipe flexi to go from 2.0" to stock system. Backbox cut off stock system and 38mm pit bike muffler stuck on the end. (80db on the sound test)
QG18DE injectors and 6:1 vortech rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
Classic mini 'racing' radiator with electric fan.
Cut springs front and rear. Corsa shocks on the rear, original shocks up front
Front anti roll bar polybushed.
15 steels all round, Honda Civic front (with 8mm spacer to clear hub ) and Renault Laguna rear.
195 50 15 t1r's.
Rev counter clocks.
Boost gauge and little voltmeter gauge hooked up to lambda for narrowband readout.
First facelift front bumper with fogs.
Prefacelift rear bumper.



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frank

frank

Club Member
well done ryb :cool: proved the naysayers wrong eh ;) proof that a cg10 can run safely half a bar on the stock coilpack ecu
one of the biggest track improvements i did was the rear bias valve delete, i found i could brake a lot later and corner a bit slower
 
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RYB

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frank said:
well done ryb :cool: proved the naysayers wrong eh ;) proof that a cg10 can run safely half a bar on the stock coilpack ecu
one of the biggest track improvements i did was the rear bias valve delete, i found i could brake a lot later and corner a bit slower
Click to expand...
Yep
Should have an intercooler fitted in the next few days as I fitted hood pins today so can do away with the stock rad support and make my own.

It's funny you say that I was getting a lot of nose diving which made the rear feel very very light at times, did make me think about that bias valve as I haven't even adjusted it since lowering. (I'm not that low by any means).
I'll have to get some new rear cylinders for when I remove the bias valve as I snapped the nipple off one when I went to bleed them (only ended up bleeding the fronts)


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J450n

J450n

RYB said:
As you can see I also haggard cut the grill out nismo-esque. Not sure if I regret that decision or not!
Personally I'm more about how the car feels to drive rather than chasing speed and grip etc so next up was changing things up for driver feel.

Got myself a racing steering wheel (budget but quality from McGill Motorsport I believe)
Also got a new gear knob which there's a photo of later.
Bought some JDM porn for inspiration:

And fitted some tacho clocks:




GT15 turbo cg10de(t) @ 7psi
Click to expand...
From where to get tacho clocks?

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RYB

RYB


Mounted the rad properly and finally got round to fitting the intercooler. This has pushed the AFR's leaner due to colder air so I think larger injectors are now needed. I'm on 175cc right now with 3.5 bar fpr. I think 200cc Hyundai injectors will do the job. Plus the coilpack ecu does a great job scaling back injectors for a good idle.
Also found the pcv valve to be jammed open which was pressurising the crankcase under boost
I've drilled it out and just running it to a crude catch can till I can get another pcv from Nissan this week. Lack of air flow and it just being a crude poorly flowing breather tube setup now has led to very light condensation 'mayo' build up in the oil cap which makes your heart skip a beat

No coolant loss, no steam out of exhaust, no pressurised coolant pipes, no bubbles in rad and no excess water in expansion bottle before it gets all pistonheads-esque diagnosis in here!!!


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A

Andrew k11

Hi Ryb, love you blog and builds on both cars! I’m currently starting to work on a turbo build myself, this is on a dizzy 1.0. Was your fuel setup simply ga16 injectors and fmu regulator? Did you have to retard the spark any? I believe all I need is turbo, mani, injectors, fmu reg and intercooler? Is this correct? Thanks in advance, any help is much appreciated 😊
 
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DEdgeMac

Buy & Sell Member
Making good progress mate.
Did you need to modify/fabricate custom brackets for the mini rad? Is it bigger/thicker than standard?
I've been looking for an uprated radiator and it seems that there aren't any Micra specific ones available, which is boring.
 
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RYB

RYB

Andrew k11 said:
Hi Ryb, love you blog and builds on both cars! I’m currently starting to work on a turbo build myself, this is on a dizzy 1.0. Was your fuel setup simply ga16 injectors and fmu regulator? Did you have to retard the spark any? I believe all I need is turbo, mani, injectors, fmu reg and intercooler? Is this correct? Thanks in advance, any help is much appreciated
Click to expand...
Thanks much appreciated. My original setup was just this yes. I didn't retard the timing at all just ran colder plugs and made sure they were gapped properly. I didn't have a way of checking the AFR's however and resorted to checking the spark plugs, which always came out a good colour. I think the only reason I got away with that small injectors however was due to the top mount intercooler which for a while was just a heatsoak really as I had no hoodscoop for a while. The hotter less dense air required less fuel to maintain a rich AFR. On my current setup I used qg15 injectors initially (top feed ga16 equivalent) and with no intercooler the AFR's were spot on. As soon as I mounted a front mount, albeit a smaller one it ran quite a bit leaner so required bigger injectors. I'm currently running 222cc injectors at 3.5bar base fuel pressure, so quite a jump up in fuel requirements from simply cooler intake air!
I highly recommend an uprated fuel pump also btw for reliable and steady fuel pressure.


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OP
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RYB

RYB

DEdgeMac said:
Making good progress mate.
Did you need to modify/fabricate custom brackets for the mini rad? Is it bigger/thicker than standard?
I've been looking for an uprated radiator and it seems that there aren't any Micra specific ones available, which is boring.
Click to expand...
Thanks buddy.
Yes I did, I actually just used a steel shelf bracket from screwfix to support it and some electrical din rail also. It's a lot thicker but a hell of a lot smaller. Personally I can't say I recommend it really. I used it last minute to get out of a pickle and haven't changed it out of sheer laziness! It's simply too small for boost. N/A I'd imagine it'd be a good lightweight replacement for oem but turbo cooling requirements are too much for it. A hot day bombing down the motorway at 80-90 the temps start to creep up on the gauge after about 10 minutes flat out lol. Obviously easily avoided and putting the blowers on cools it down instantly but on track I imagine it'd be every few laps as before. I'm considering either fitting an oil cooling system to bring the temps of the oil down in the hope the water temps will follow or rejigging my boost piping and simply running a larger rad.


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RYB

RYB

Just checking in. Cars still going quite happily. Currently doing not so interesting stuff rust repairs etc.
Few plans for the future
Bigger injectors again. Looking at 350z injectors. Look like they'll fit and they're 280-290cc at 3 bar so more fuel at less base pressure is win win. More just to run the car even safer as currently the afr's are 11-12:1 range in boost, would like to bring that down to the 10's ideally.
Oil cooler system. Got an idea in my head for a heat exchanger system with a separate heat transfer oil circuit pumped from possibly a power steering pump.
Playing with ideas for a meth injection system pre turbo.
Want to get the car looking a bit better too. May even paint it.
Haven't really been on here or Facebook much. Not gonna lie the micra crowd doesn't seem to be that great ATM. Bit of a shame.


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DEdgeMac

Buy & Sell Member
I always fit an oil cooler system on my turbo cars- can't believe some don't come with them from the factory, help no end with engine temps.

The only problem with coolers on these is the space available! Going to be fitting an ic and looking to sort an improved rad (thanks for the info), which will mean I'll also need to sort a transmission cooler seen as though my cube is CVT. I might have to go in the front arches with some ducts/feeds.

Where did you get your rr fpr? I was looking at getting a 12:1 for a project last year but they only seemed available from America?

Have you considered running meth from the tank rather than injection as a cheaper alternative to weigh up the pros vs cost?
 
LiamC

LiamC

I've ruined my car 🙁
Auto micra rads have the heat exchanger at the bottom to cool the auto boxes, could rejig one of them for cooling oil. Although you're dumping oil heat into the coolant so not ideal, plus you have your rad sorted already. They're around 10mm thicker than stock manual ones though

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D

DEdgeMac

Buy & Sell Member
Yeah I know they do mate, that was my reasoning behind getting a bigger rad and then running a cooler separate. Since I'll be going turbo wasn't sure how CVT boxes cope with more heat/power.

Didn't realise auto's were bigger, that's good to know.

You'd think there'd be off the shelf twin core alloy rads though wouldn't you, especially considering that they're quite popular.
 
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RYB

RYB

LiamC said:
Auto micra rads have the heat exchanger at the bottom to cool the auto boxes, could rejig one of them for cooling oil. Although you're dumping oil heat into the coolant so not ideal, plus you have your rad sorted already. They're around 10mm thicker than stock manual ones though

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Click to expand...
That was my concern with dumping oil heat into coolant. I'd rather have another cooling circuit to avoid this! Plus I simply can't run a stock rad with this turbo. It clashes and it doesn't make sense to run an oem one in a different location, might as well run an uprated one with all the hassle I takes. In hindsight/in the future I would have the turbo sit in a position that clears so my own fault lol!



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OP
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RYB

RYB

DEdgeMac said:
I always fit an oil cooler system on my turbo cars- can't believe some don't come with them from the factory, help no end with engine temps.

The only problem with coolers on these is the space available! Going to be fitting an ic and looking to sort an improved rad (thanks for the info), which will mean I'll also need to sort a transmission cooler seen as though my cube is CVT. I might have to go in the front arches with some ducts/feeds.

Where did you get your rr fpr? I was looking at getting a 12:1 for a project last year but they only seemed available from America?

Have you considered running meth from the tank rather than injection as a cheaper alternative to weigh up the pros vs cost?
Click to expand...
I imported it from America. It was a tuning shop that had an eBay shop. Mine is 6:1, 12:1 is more what you'd run for low boost setups with stock injectors.
In hindsight I'd get 8:1 just to be safer with fueling.
My idea was basically almost like a washer bottle and pump running to a jet on the pre turbo intake piping. This would be controlled by a pressure switch to turn on with positive intake manifold pressure. Means you don't need such a meaty pump to get past post turbo intake pressures.


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DEdgeMac

Buy & Sell Member
That looks ideal Frank.

Was originally going to just go with an FMU and wideband but with it being my daily driver I'm going to use Emanage or Nistune and get it mapped properly.
 
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