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Turbo Conversion (and everything else on my car)

Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Right, I was contemplating whether or not to blog this, mainly because it's a relatively long term project with an estimated stage 1 completion by February, so it may go a while without updates, or with nothing interesting happening.

However, it may be interesting for those considering a conversion and doing the DIY route, I will try to be as consise as possible and will keep an accurate price list on anything I buy.

Here is my plan in stages

Stage 1 - Turbo running, and mapped for safety at 5psi on a CG10 with stock compression and internals.
Stage 2 - Turbo running at 7 psi on CG10
Stage 3 - Turbo running 5psi on a built CG13 with forged Conrods and 8:1 Pistons
Stage 4 - Turbo at 10psi, with uprated cooling components.
Final Stage - Turbo at 1bar (14.5psi)

TechEdge 2J1 Wideband Lambda sensor and controller, this is another component you will need for tuning purposes to accurately record the air fuel ratios. £145

At the moment I have the wideband sensor and the e-manage installed and I am currently learning and gaining some experience with the mapping before getting the turbo on, which should mean it will go a bit smoother and be on the road a bit quicker.

I will have the welder back and in the garage by the weekend to start working on the turbo manifold.

COSTS
Wideband Lambda £145
CG13 Cams - £20
GT1544 £230
Evolution Rage 3 Cut off saw £180
1m of 75mm wide 10mm thick 316 Stainless Steel for flanges £27
Stainless Steel cutting wheel for Rage 3 £55
Cobalt Drill bits and Hole Saws £20

Total - £677
 

chipedwood

Ex. Club Member
This looks like it will be quite an interesting read.

Try and keep the price as accurate as you can, would be good to know a real price this costs!
 

squarepants

Ex. Club Member
nice to see your turbo plans are fianlly coming together phil :) hope it turns out as good as your old green k11! that was ace :)

dan
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
I'm learning to map it myself, and it will give me something to play with while I build a CG13 with forged internals.

It's cheap to kill CG10's while mapping than it is to kill a brand new engine with forged internals.

And on top of that, it's not about making the most power or the quickest car, it's about engineering it, and doing as much of it as possible myself. It's easy to do it with a chequebook ;)
 

kristian

One Way Mule
Common mate.. be honest... You came to my work shop and saw 2 Turbo Micras.. and two turbo Almeras and saw the Darkside..

xx much love@!

..btw.. on stock fuel pressure your 1.6 injectors will only be good for around 120bhp..

..I can supply Custom rails, to suit the 256cc SR20DE injectors and the 370cc SR20DET injectors for a bargain price..

let me know pal..

also u still want that head and exhaust mani?
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Not had much done tbh, was supposed to be clearing out to get the welder back, but ended up taking a chip of paint off my door while taking the strips off.

So I had to sand it back and fill it.
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Then used red primer and AJ4 paint.
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And now, all done :D just finished rubbing it down with 1200 and t-cut and polish :)
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I am tempted to do my grille next while I wait for the welder.
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
it is, and everything else I'm doing too. Will have some manifold fab up towards the end of the month, the garage really needs sorting to fit the welder back in.

Can a mod change the name of thread to Turbo Conversion (and everything else happening with my car to stop the thread being empty and boring)
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
For anybody installing an e-manage, I put mine in my glovebox so it's hidden from view but still easily accessible when needed. However, I recommend NOT using industrial velcro, as it really won't budge. Anybody got a good idea for seperating velcro without just pulling on it?
 

martinb

Ex. Club Member
For anybody installing an e-manage, I put mine in my glovebox so it's hidden from view but still easily accessible when needed. However, I recommend NOT using industrial velcro, as it really won't budge. Anybody got a good idea for seperating velcro without just pulling on it?

credit card, push hard and wiggle, usually does it!:grinning:
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
I've been constantly eye-balling the turbo and thinking about location for it in the engine bay.

I think I may try and borrow a HKS Turbo Manifold just to check for fitment for a high mounted turbo.

I'm going to start on my headlights soon, although not really turbo related.

However, the open grille seems to have made a significant difference in the time it takes for the engine to get to normal temperature (while driving).

The garage can almost fit the welder in, and I'll soon also be buying a bandsaw, then the manifold fabrication can start.
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Right then, a "real"-ish update :p

After doing the maths to plot my points on compressor maps, I started looking through the Garrett Range at what was suitable. It came out to be almost a perfect match for the Garrett GT1544 454082-2

The compressor map suits very well with my maths, so I went to a local supplier to check one out and get prices.

And came back with this.

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They did me a very good price on it too.

The T25 I have probably suits a CG13 producing high power better, but for my CG10 I am aiming for good performance but ultimately very good road driveability.
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
I can lower the compression on a CG10 much cheaper than I can with a CG13. I already have a CG10, and I'm not too interested about power, just the engineering and fabrication of the system, and doing it myself. But sometime in the future, I will move it all over to a forged CG13 eventually. It will be interesting to see what I can get the CG10 to do.

---------- Post added at 10:46 ---------- Previous post was at 10:40 ----------

I can lower the compression on a CG10 much cheaper than I can with a CG13. I already have a CG10, and I'm not too interested about power, just the engineering and fabrication of the system, and doing it myself. But sometime in the future, I will move it all over to a forged CG13 eventually. It will be interesting to see what I can get the CG10 to do.
 

Retepetsir

King of Subsonic
I was looking at the GT15's previously and they are perfect for the K11 engines, inc the 1.3.

Suitable for 100-200bhp and fast spooling too. Enjoy!
 
I think its great that you are doing this all yourself, and taking your time about it. then, if somthing goes wrong you will know why rather than just having to take it to a garage and asking them to 'fix it please:D'
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Ok, so spent some cash today, on the cut off saw to start some fabrication work for the manifold!

I decided on the Evolution Rage 3, and I'm very impressed with the cuts it does.
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I've also been doing some work on my wheels.
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solarice

Ex. Club Member
The saw will save some time for sure...i cut all my 2" induction pipes with a laser line and a junior hacksaw, which wasnt nearly as fun as youd think.

Will be following this build :)
 
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Right, ordered some stainless steel 1.5" diameter, 1.5mm wall thickness, 304 so I can start fabricating the collector.

In the meantime, I have one more wheel to do, then I can take them for tyres!
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
Tyres are being fitted tomorrow, however, a parcel came in the post today, and my stainless steel pieces are here.

I'm building a log style manifold first, just to get the system running, before over-complicating.
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Alienfish360

Awesome Dawson
The hardest part is getting all the rust off, and getting a good enough prep for a good finish on the paint, then apply the tape, and lacquer over the top.
 
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