turbo build

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pollyp

Club Member
changing from a 1.0 to 1.3 preface may require changing the flywheel, clutch, gearbox, rear engine mount & bracket, gear linkages, driveshafts, front hub. also check the type of speedo on the 1.3 gearbox (mechanical or electronic) matches the one on the actual car.

if the 1L micra ur thinking of buying does require all those changes above, consider if all the extra time, effort, tools, storage, labour and cost of buying, checking and fitting all the 1.3L parts in total is worth it compared to the cost of just buying a 1.3L car.
 
As Paul's said, it would be far easier to just buy a 1.3 preface lift (the one with the grill not in the bonnet) as the engine will just drop in.

Also you'll have spares if the motor goes kaboom , smash, bang , wollop, clunk, pop
 
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Azzydot
right am with u all now I'll just get a Micra 1.3 with dizzy model and make sure it has a gearbox so I can just swap over my engine in, Polly is right it's time and more cost in parts for a 1.0 charging over to 1.3 parts, I'll just start with 1.3 micra


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frank

Club Member
right am with u all now I'll just get a Micra 1.3 with dizzy model and make sure it has a gearbox so I can just swap over my engine in, Polly is right it's time and more cost in parts for a 1.0 charging over to 1.3 parts, I'll just start with 1.3 micra


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you can fit the 1.3 clutch and g/box to a (dizzy) facelift 1.0 np azzy, and its f/w is lighter too
 
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Azzydot
so frank will the facelift model micra 1.0 engine mounts be same and drive shafts ? as Polly said it's Diffrent or is it same to 1.3 ?


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Azzydot
Just been to scrap yard and charging my coil flywheel for a dizzy 1.3, the man said to come Tommow as he will take it out so that's really sorted,


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frank

Club Member
My head hurts
mine too :D

so frank will the facelift model micra 1.0 engine mounts be same and drive shafts ? as Polly said it's Diffrent or is it same to 1.3 ?


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changing from a 1.0 to 1.3 preface may require changing the flywheel, clutch, gearbox, rear engine mount & bracket, gear linkages, driveshafts, front hub. also check the type of speedo on the 1.3 gearbox (mechanical or electronic) matches the one on the actual car.

if the 1L micra ur thinking of buying does require all those changes above, consider if all the extra time, effort, tools, storage, labour and cost of buying, checking and fitting all the 1.3L parts in total is worth it compared to the cost of just buying a 1.3L car.
 
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Azzydot
Some problems as always happend, I have opened the timing cover off and took off the timing upper retainer out as I wanted to fit it back on 1 long screw fell down the bottom, put my hands down but no luck. I try to take the bottom cover off but it's not coming off. Can anyone help ? What if I took my oil sump off wil I find the screw ?


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skymera

Brutal Honesty
I say should. I always took extra care when changing the top tensioner on my 1.0...which I did several times.

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Azzydot
U mean 2nd mark on the pully? And then like tip ex on both cams and then take them out? Will the cams come out with the timing pully coming off ??


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frank

Club Member
there,s a thread on here from about 2009 azzy, where a member dropped 1 of those 2 tensioner bolts down the void, he ended up taking the sump etc off
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
U mean 2nd mark on the pully? And then like tip ex on both cams and then take them out? Will the cams come out with the timing pully coming off ??


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If you bought a haynes manual it would explain all of this lol
 
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Azzydot
I have the manual on my apps and I have followed it, but there is no markings on my cam pullys, as someone here said it might be in my sump, and I can make my own markings but saying that how do I know if the last owner had it timed probley for me to make the markings and just melting pistons lol


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frank

Club Member
the markings/coloured links wear off usually azzy, you just count the links between the dots on the sprockets (loads of threads on here and cisco,s)
 
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Azzydot
the markings/coloured links wear off usually azzy, you just count the links between the dots on the sprockets (loads of threads on here and cisco,s)
Frank on the Nissan manual it says take cam bolts off, chain tensioner and idle pully bolt but won't that move the other pullys and cam if my chains still on ?
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frank

Club Member
you only need take 1 sprocket off mate, 22mm socket and breaker bar, and 22mm open end on the cam
 
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Azzydot
u can't get it to open frank I had a big breakers bar on it with a 22mm socket on cam end and a 22 mm spanner on inside cam holding it down and trying to break it loose, it's really tight or stuck


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Stani1029

Club Member
Nah youre just not strong enough, putting weight on the breaker with your foot and holding the cam with the spanner always works
 
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Azzydot
Thanks to pollyp, frank, stani
I did how u told me and I took the chain off and head off within 10 mins
now just checking the pistons looks clean and no wear or scratches, need to 2x head gasket, will I need arp bolts ?
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Stani1029

Club Member
Standard bolts are fine but I'd recommend buying the victor reinz headgaskets over any cheap ebay/motor factor ones
 
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Azzydot
Yeh it's more clean now as I cleaned it with wd40 with a smooth rag, so do u just drop 2 gasket in without sealing it ? And then drop head on with bolts ?


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Azzydot
think my chain is ok, has Polly or frank use 2 head gaskets if so are they from eBay or custom, or from Nissan genuine ones don't know wat will suit boost


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Enuo

Glorified Electrician
think my chain is ok, has Polly or frank use 2 head gaskets if so are they from eBay or custom, or from Nissan genuine ones don't know wat will suit boost


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2 x Victor Reinz OEM ones, pretty sure Stani mentioned this before
 
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Azzydot
what fuel pump will be a straight swap ? for boost, also will I need a Uprated fuel reg if I go for 370 cc injectors ?


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pollyp

Club Member
if the sealing sections of the head are really pitted or warped then skimming it would help.
if it's mosty smooth then I just clean it absolutely spotless n dry with carb cleaner and clean rag.
if there's any remaining bits of gasket/dirt on the sealing faces, I lightly scrape the surface clean with several fresh sharp razor blades (don't scratch the surface, just the unwanted gasket/dirt) till u only see shiny metal and clean & dry with carb cleaner.

I used single victor reinz HG (genuine nissan ones) on my turbo no probs.
nissan sell em for £80 but I got the same HG from ireland for £34
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-98#post-637680

cheapo ebay HG don't last well under boost.

fitting head bolts, I thoroughly clean, retap, reoil/regrease every one to ensure smooth tightening with a good quality calibrated torque wrench & angle gauge.

making it reliable is all bout detailed planning, learning from others mistakes, careful construction, common sense, heat management, supplying enough fuel and careful sensible mapping.
 
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