Tud5 1.5 Diesel timing belt replacement for nissan micra k11, citroen saxo and peugeot 106

Tud5 1.5 Diesel timing belt replacement for nissan micra k11, citroen saxo and peugeot 106.
In a sad case that you happen to own of those artifacts of cheap automotive vehicles, you might find yourself struggling to find any information about this ancient practice. Im here with you, and i have digged thought some archives to present to you my findings.

I suggest a video to you in case its your first time, its short and has no details, anyway when standing in the bathroom while the lights go out, its always good to have a general familiarity in witch direction to aim at.

Job itself needs no special tools or heavy lifting, a basic walmart socket set will do. Ofcourse professionals could do this in minutes, and by my instructions you might do it in hours and more. As a born neckbeard i managed this in days, due constant beer shortages and lack of particular fascination or willpower. Anyway i removed far more parts than necessary to avoid small hassles and big oopsies, also there are some bolts and nuts in hart to reach places that might force you to put your beer down. if in any case you get filled with rage and brake some of them off, i think it might void your warranty, but i will understand.


To get going

  • jack the car up a wee bit and remove the wheel witchever side the pullies are on
    remove the plastic inner wheel housing cover, (if you want to remove the front fairing aswell you have to take out the bumber first... or not.

  • now you can start to remove all other crap that hinders your belt changing mission. its nice to shoot at the timing belt covers and remove everything that gets in hands way. Things like: generator belt pully, coolant or power steering reservoir, and definitely upper engine mount witch must be done by lifting the engine up from the engines oil pan.

  • after breaking some sweat you should be facing the good old timing belt where important things happen. The crankshaft-, injector- and camshaft wheelie, that are in a very special angle of the dangle and covered with teeth the belt surfs on. do not mess them up. Unlike my grandma, if engine parts have teeth, they are important. Gears and pullies should move in a precise order, if any one of them skips a tooth, your easy journey has come to an end.

  • In order to not mess up, follow the following. : Disconnect the battery and remove glow plugs, mark the belt, pullies and engine with some paint to keep track of better times to be had when you mess up.

  • use a wrench to turn the crankshaft til upper pullies are facing their correct locking holes and screw some proper bolts in there. you can also lock the bottom crankshaft wheel by nearby thread hole with a longer bolt and a large washer. remove it to change the belt and tighy whity it when fiddling with upper pullies and tensioner,..... or use the correct crankshaft locking hole located somewhere else.
    Anyway dont leave the belt floppy, use a leverage stick to leverage some tension to tensioner before nutting it nut.
    professionals might play with upper pullies bolts for extra tention but, eh meh... no

  • when the new belt is installed, remove are locking bolts and turn the engine over by the crankshaft for a while, If it doesn't turn over, gets stuck or you hear some other clackering, then beginners mode has concluded. refer back to earlier paint markings to correct pulley positions.
    Once in a while nice things happen and the crankshaft might turn over nicely, throw in some glowplugs and a battery.
    The thing is done. Start the engine with high hopes.
if an likely chance you have disregarded my warnings and sharted the engine for good, dont worry. put some mayonnaise on it and move to france, it will be fine.

and a tech guide to rocket science of belt vector calculations.

Here is some extra information about the engine: i got more but meh, if anyone even cares..

Also remember what my grandfather said: if the laidyboys dont find you handsome, at least you know you are handy.
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