The oil return adapter I chose was a no weld type with a thread and a locking nut it came with some little rubber o rings that go on each side of the sealing surfaces however when tightened down the o rings deformed and would of never sealed so I opted to remove them and use some sealant around the face of the mating surfaces time will tell how this holds up
It's a bit of a pain to pick a location for the return to sit as It sits inside the sump with the locking nut not flush as the welded type ones do if it doesn't work I'll eventually change to a welded type
Making sure it didn't contact the internals or the dipstick tube was my main worry how ever all on and looking good just hope it doesn't start to weep oil
Decided I wanted to protect the engine as much as I could hearing all the talk of rods and ringlands going from knock and such I didn't really want to go down the route of a piggy back ECU as thy don't have much if anything in the way of protection so speaking to a few people I decided to opt for a haltech ECU which interfaces very well with the Micras engine as the sr20 and such use very similar systems I have a knock sensor as well as a boost control solenoid so boost response can be controlled fully
After having several issues with the haltech ECU wiring and it not being so "plug and play" I have the ECU powered up turns out it was designed for the pre facelift aus model so needed to repin my factory wiring I mounted the air temp sensor in the charge pipe and switched the ignition on to be met by a reading of 58 degrees I know we are having a sunny spell but not that bad haha!
So I checked the calibration after talking to Paul and compared it to the spec of what the air temp sensor states it should be
As you can see the plug and play base map that haltech provided is in correctly set up for the supplied air temp sensor after adjusting the values we have a correct temp reading !
But we are still not running properly so more investigation is needed
So I took a leaf out of Paul Li's book and decided I would make something out of nothing lol. walking around work I found a old shelf and took one look and thought I could make use of that after asking for permission to reclaim said shelf I now have a hydraulic handbrake mount pretty pleased with it haha
Really like what you're doing! I'm less patient myself, and took my 1.0 vibe to Cadwell Park in Lincolnshire! What a hoot! Bog standard (bar the wheels), but fun to throw it around nonetheless. More power, wider wheels n tyres, stiffer suspension, etc will just equal more fun!! My usual track toy is a 96 ZX-7R GESBK race bike, but i wanted to 'treat' my partner to the whole track experience. Pics are courtesy of their official photographer, Lee Marshall (msvtphotography.com) who attends all Cadwell Park trackdays
I have now fitted the flywheel I used a diesel flywheel locking tool to stop the flywheel spinning while I worked, these tools don't line up properly how ever using a wheel bolt to space it out from the block used a gearbox mounting hole and bolt with great success.
The helix clutch was then all lined up and torqued down
Finally after all this time I've got the car on the Dyno and had it tuned ! Massively happy how it's performed (and didn't explode) can't wait to take it for a drive decent figures should make for a fun little toy
Power was measured at the hubs so no flywheel figures I'm afraid
the dyno resulst are hard to read, nice curves anyway!
But quite a low valley before 4k rpm (yeah it's a turbo...)... add a Supercharger and make it a SuperTurbo
just kidding, you might not need <4k rpm on the track anymway (are you using cg13 gearbox?) though you haven't mentioned what kinda track you wanna use it on.