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The £80 Micra

frank

Club Member
your ecu will be running closed loop most of the time ihtisham, using the primary lambda sensor feedback to calculate the injector durations.
which is why your qg injectors made little difference.
mark will have changed the open loop fuel tables, so it will probably overfuel when booted with bigger injectors
 
your ecu will be running closed loop most of the time ihtisham, using the primary lambda sensor feedback to calculate the injector durations.
which is why your qg injectors made little difference.
mark will have changed the open loop fuel tables, so it will probably overfuel when booted with bigger injectors
Right okay didn't know this. Do you have any suggestions for what I should do regarding injectors then?

1. Stick with the CR12 injectors that Mark recommended as that's what the ECU has been calibrated for.
2. Put the QG15's in anyway

Thanks.
 
Yeah I completely understand. BUT, none of my local dyno tuners can produce injector duty cycle graphs!
I think nistune and obd readers can tell you duty cycle from within the software, I'd be surprised if others can't maybe they can't graph it but... or perhaps because the answer is dependent on your tuning software, i don't know thou are going to need a graph just they keep an eye on afr and duty cycle during the runs.
 
Loud noise at WOT is great, daily driving should be nicely humming like hey there I'm fast! I find. But the injectors won't hold up with the ITB's and now a ecu remap has been chosen but the injectors need to be different? Is this sound or is it just me?
 
Loud noise at WOT is great, daily driving should be nicely humming like hey there I'm fast! I find. But the injectors won't hold up with the ITB's and now a ecu remap has been chosen but the injectors need to be different? Is this sound or is it just me?
Yes that was the issue, but as it turns out, the injectors that the ECU has been remapped for are 216cc/min which will be plenty to fuel the ITB's.
I originally thought the injectors that the ECU has been mapped for were 150cc/min, which wouldn't have been enough.
 
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So today I dropped the car off to the garage along with the bike throttle bodies and all the relevant parts. Should get it back within a few days.

In the meanwhile, I've been working on getting my YouTube channel up and running, where I can share about this project car, so been busy making videos for that. Will update on here when my first few videos are up, so make sure you watch them and subscribe to my channel!

Also, my mechanic was working on this beast today. It kinda confirmed that the garage I have chosen to carry out the bike bodies conversion is a good choice.

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We've ran into a problem! I kinda expected there to be issues to be honest - very difficult to get everything perfect on the 1st attempt.

Basically, the Boggs Brothers inlet manifold is angled at around 60 degrees, which has meant the throttle linkage clashes with the power steering reservoir. And the even bigger problem is that there just is not enough space to put the airbox on. The airbox clashes with the firewall, the servo and the bonnet!

To solve the first issue, we thought about putting the throttle bodies on upside down, (as I'm not using the bike injectors anyway) but then the bike rail clashes with the firewall. We could remove the bike fuel rail and injectors but then I would need to plug the holes.

In the end, we've decided to make changes to the inlet manifold. We are just going to adapt it so that the throttle bodies sit 90 degree to the head; basically like this setup, courtesy of 'Skinners Sprint Micra' blog on here, which was a brill read!

This then solves both problems at once. Instead of sending the manifold back to the Boggs Brothers, we'll be using a local welder (who works out of his home) called MK Engineering in Maltby tomorrow.

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or else tilt the engine forward :) via the rear mount
Ahah! I read one of your earlier posts (...the front engine mount does 'naff all'... lol) and we actually tried this in the workshop today. But even at the max limit of tilting the engine foward to the point where it was touching the body, there still wasn't enough space.

I should've mentioned this in my post before.

Seems like a genius idea tho if I'm honest; just a shame it didn't work in this specific case :/
 
Update:

Delays, delays, delays...

So finally my car is back together and drivable.
The manifold is with Martin at MK Engineering who needs around 2-3 weeks to make the adjustments, as he's really busy.

Meanwhile, I found this quite interesting:

  • Basically, I could always run my car without the MAF attached. Of course, this would make the idle slightly rougher, but the drive was pretty much the same as with the MAF on.

  • However, now, when I got the car back, my mechanic had forgotten to connect the MAF up, and the car didn't run properly at all, like it would lurch with massive power loss and then surges of power. With the MAF attached, it runs great, and the car feels even quicker than it did before it went into the garage.

  • Basically, something must have happened with the ECU so that now it refuses to run at all without the MAF attached, whereas before it used to run okay even without the MAF.

So it seems the ECU had been running a safe map all that time, and not really using the output from the MAF or something like this???
 
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So the car continues to be different...

When I started the engine from cold, it stalled straight away. I restarted it and it did start, but the idle was around 750rpm, which is too low. I then pulled out of the drive, and when I got to the first junction, it started idling at 1200rpm, which is more reasonable on a cold engine. However, it then persisted to remain idling at 1200rpm even when the engine had fully warmed up. I'm guessing the idle air control valve hasn't been set properly. But I don't understand why my mechanic would have fiddled with it in the first place.

Previously, if I revved the engine while in neutral, the revs would drop down slowly. Now they drop down much more quickly. No idea why this change has happened, although it sounds more healthier when revved...

Thirdly, I'm getting whines when turning the steering. It turns out the power steering fluid is realllly low. I don't understand how it could have gotten that low as it was fine when I brought the car into the garage.

Next, there’s a three pin plug that doesn't connect to anything, and its near the throttle body, making me think they've forgotten to connect a sensor up. I can't figure out what its supposed to connect to, will upload a photo tomorrow.

Lastly, I checked the odometer when I picked the car up, and it has been driven 32 miles since I dropped it off at the garage.

I just hope 'the lads' haven't been rallying it about, but I don't see why they would have driven 32 miles. I get the fact they would have test drove the car to make sure its all okay, but 32 miles is a bit much.

I'm going to give the car a thorough check over tomorrow, as its just not the same as it was before it went into the garage.
This garage is my long time garage, and we've always had great mutual respect, so it doesn't make sense for them to do me wrong.
 
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Low Rider

Poindexter
Moderator
Club Member
The IACV is 3-pin and plugs in from below, so is an easy miss even when you're looking for it.

You'll likely never find out but they probably ended up doing multiple drives out because they were trying to fault find why it wasn't running right...
 
The IACV is 3-pin and plugs in from below, so is an easy miss even when you're looking for it.

You'll likely never find out but they probably ended up doing multiple drives out because they were trying to fault find why it wasn't running right...
Yes it was a 3 pin with an orange outline.

Thanks for likely clearing that up.

Yeah I think I was being too sceptical yesterday, this is my long time garage, wouldn't make sense for them to do me wrong.
 
I connected the IACV 3-pin plug back up. Whether the IACV is connected up seems to make no difference to the drive, it only affects the idle, which makes sense.

However, the car is not running great. At any junction or a set of traffic lights, the car revs from idle to 1500rpm, then drops back to idle, then up to 1500rpm again and keeps doing this, and the noise of the CONSTANT revving at EVERY traffic light has literally given me a headache. I am pretty sure its the MAF.

I have just ordered a whole throttle body as no one around here is willing to just sell me a second hand MAF.

I literally replaced the MAF a few months ago, and it has happened again.

Before taking the car into the garage last week for the throttle bodies conversion, I had removed the MAF and put it into a plastic pouch. This is so my mechanic could mount it into the airbox for the throttle bodies, and he wouldn't have to worry about removing it in the first place.
However, its now clear to me that these sensors are so sensitive, that even putting them in a plastic bag can damage them.
 
So the fault code, or should I say, 'fault codesssss' are:

1. Idle Control Valve
2. Throttle Position Sensor

So it turns out the MAF is okay, wahoo!

At this point, I'm probably just better off changing the whole throttle body.

Will swap my existing MAF over as its still fine, and take the MAF off the second throttle body and keep it as a spare.
 
FINALLY SOME GOOD NEWS:

So the local welder has said he can adjust the manifold and it should be ready by the end of next week.
He's done me an absolute solid one since his waiting time is actually 4 weeks!
He told me he was going to find some 90 deg bends from eBay and if he couldn't find suitable ones, then he wouldn't be able to do the job.
So today I rang him, and turns out he couldn't find any on eBay so he just made some!
What a legend!

So, changing the throttle body over at this stage may just be a waste of money, if the bike bodies are going on soon anyway.
 

Skinner_87

Club Member
Are you going to run the fuel injectors in there original position on the ITBS or the original mounts on the manifold straight at the head?
 
Are you going to run the fuel injectors in there original position on the ITBS or the original mounts on the manifold straight at the head?
I will be running 220cc CR12DE injectors on the original mounts so the manifold straight at the head.

I did want to use the bike injectors which are mounted further upstream to allow better time for fuel mixing to get more power, but Mark at Tornado Systems who remapped my ECU, suggested I don't use the bike injectors because:

1. I'll lose drivability as my car is a daily
2. My car isn't highly tuned enough to reap the benefits of using the bike injectors.

Let me know if you think I am wrong as I'm a novice and always willing to learn, and your blog was a massive help!
 
Okay so as you guys know I was having some running problems with the car and I bought another throttle body since the fault codes were:

Throttle Position Sensor
Idle Air Control Sensor

However, today, before fitting the new throttle body in, I thought to have another look, and realised that the idle air control sensor plug is the same as the throttle position sensor plug and that they had been swapped over!

So my mechanic by accidentally put the throttle position sensor plug in the idle control sensor and vice versa!

Now I’ve swapped them back over and it runs great, so will sell the throttle body!

Gotta love these little cars, they work even when sensors are plugged in the wrong places.
 
One thing I personally found interesting was that after a few miles of driving with the sensors in the right places, the engine light went off by itself.

I always used to think the battery had to be disconnected for a few min and then reconnected for the ECU to reset the fault codes, but in this case, the fault code erased itself; I'm not complaining!
 
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