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Super S Turbo 1.2


Buy & Sell Member
I have been planning this restoration for years, and after three months i'm almost at the half-way point.
The goal is to fully restore my Super S (with subtle modifications) and power it with a modified MA12, running on the March Turbo/Figaro ECCS turbo system.
Presently i'm just a few weeks away from the bodywork and paint stage.

So step 1 - obtain a Figaro for this project.



Bare-metal restoration was necessary to eliminate the many tiny rust spots dotted around the body.

I use Zinc spray rather than primer, to protect the metal until the car is resprayed properly.

Chop out the rot, treat the wound and rebuild.

The same back-to-bare-metal treament was carried out underneath the car too.

Small modification to help reduce under-bonnet temperatures. This will direct cool air directly onto the exhaust manifold and turbocharger.
The ventilation hole is reinforced with a right-angled steel frame to prevent bonnet flex. Rivet nuts were also fitted so that mesh can be bolted into place under the vent hole to help diffuse the air as it enters.

Engine bay needed rust-repair along with a few additional, reinforcing welds along the seams and suspention strut mounts for good measure. These will be blended-in and coated with seam-sealer to match the origional "factory look". Crossmember and "slam-panel" were also taken to bare metal and treated.

Moving around the the other side...



Buy & Sell Member

Sadly, new Super S wings are no longer available so every step was taken to protect the original items. The inside surface was also taken back to bare metal, treated, zinc sprayed, painted and lacquered, and then coated with stone-chip guard for good measure.
One small modification here is to remove the hole for the antenna. Rather than have an external radio antenna, the Super S will have one mounted internally – underneath the roof skin, hidden behind the headlining.

Again, the chassis legs (and the entire under-side of the car) received the same treatment as the wings.

Moving inside the car - there was a serious issue with the inner box-section (used to duct fresh air to the heater). The duct collar (used to prevent water from entering the heater's intake pipe) had disintegrated and separated from the box-section. This allowed water to enter the heater intake pipe and leak onto the shelf in the passenger foot well.

As seen above the wall separating the box-section from the drainage channel (under the scuttle panel) had rotted through, allowing yet more water to enter the box-section. This was sealed by welding in a new section of wall after chopping out the rotten section (not shown, as I forgot to take a picture before the new collar was fitted).

Above: Old duct collar.
Below: Inside the box-section. This was treated, zinc sprayed, painted and lacquered before the new collar was fitted.

Below: Welded (full-seam) in place and later treated to a skim of fibreglass for a smooth mating surface.

More rust repair on another common K10 rot-spot.

Sandblasting, treating and painting of other parts.

Above: After blasting.
Below: Zinc, paint and lacquer.

Current task: Treating and rebuilding a rotten window track. A simple treat, paint and fibreglass repair will be enough here, no need to weld such flimsy material.

To be used: Last year I had a spare flywheel (right) lightened and balanced. When the engine is taken for its rebuild and tuning this flywheel will be re-balanced relative to the engine's crank (which will also be balanced).

That's all for now folks! I'll post the rest of the project after completion (estimated to be around October).