Strongest engine?

K11SS

K11SS

I want to fit a turbo to my 97 SR but it has 105k miles on it so I plan to fit a younger engine but which engine is best?

Manual, Auto, engine of a certain year etc?

Any info be greatly appreciated :)

Pepper
 
Which engines are closed deck?

I've seen a few builds with auto blocks but that's why I am asking for any advice :)

Pepper
 
I'm pretty sure it was only autos that had the closed deck, your best bet is to ask Frank seeing as he has more experience with them :)
 
Is the auto block a straight swap? It's just a stronger block but all bolts, plugs etc fit?

Thanks for info guys :)

Pepper
 
Sweet, I'd thank you all for your input but can't do it on tapatalk app :(

Although I did find some pics to explain the engine to me :) the extra rib at the top etc.... Posted by frank no less lol!

Pepper
 
K11SS said:
Sweet, I'd thank you all for your input but can't do it on tapatalk app :(

Although I did find some pics to explain the engine to me :) the extra rib at the top etc.... Posted by frank no less lol!

Pepper
Click to expand...

If I'm honest it's cause of reading Frank's and a few other members posts I know as much as I do :grinning:


Shaun said:
It's a shame turbo-ing is such a money pit.
Click to expand...

Amen to that
 
SO had a wee browse on Cisco's site and found this old thread ... http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=918

In particular Sean's post...

Sean; said:
THEORETICALLY the uk block with the closed deck is stronger therefore better for turbocharged/supercharged/high compression applications however in PRACTICE it seems there is no real worry to have as the Jap spec open block is holding up great in a number of turbocharged and worked cars.

Even if cylinder warping occurs butresses can made up which sit between the exterior bore wall and the block to support and stop the cylinders warping.
Click to expand...

Can of worms maybe? or is "closed deck" just a preference?

Pepper
 
Standard block will be fine, no-one on this forum is pushing the engines anywhere near hard enough to have any issues.
 
Low Rider said:
Standard block will be fine, no-one on this forum is pushing the engines anywhere near hard enough to have any issues.
Click to expand...

How hard will I need to go for the engine change to be worthwhile? I was planning a 5psi build BUT I might do a 10psi or even a bar depending on ECU restraints as I dont know when Nistune or Emangage will need replacing if they ever will of course.

So yeah I might over engineer my build for reliability and "just because I want to" reasons.

Thanks Pepper
 
K11SS said:
How hard will I need to go for the engine change to be worthwhile? I was planning a 5psi build BUT I might do a 10psi or even a bar depending on ECU restraints as I dont know when Nistune or Emangage will need replacing if they ever will of course.

So yeah I might over engineer my build for reliability and "just because I want to" reasons.

Thanks Pepper
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with over engineering things a little, at the end of the day it's your peace of mind and what you are happy with doing :)

FYI, both Jim-GR and Nis have turbocharged the CGA3 which are open deck and they are both pusing 220bhp, Jim-GR probably more. Last I saw he was running somewhere around 1.7bar boost and revving to 7000rpm+.
 
Low Rider said:
Nothing wrong with over engineering things a little, at the end of the day it's your peace of mind and what you are happy with doing :)

FYI, both Jim-GR and Nis have turbocharged the CGA3 which are open deck and they are both pusing 220bhp, Jim-GR probably more. Last I saw he was running somewhere around 1.7bar boost and revving to 7000rpm+.
Click to expand...

They both have uprated low compression pistons right? So my real weak spot will not be block but pistons/rods? Head gasket etc?

What head gasket would be best? A standard one or will I need a special one?

Thanks Pepper
 
K11SS said:
They both have uprated low compression pistons right? So my real weak spot will not be block but pistons/rods? Head gasket etc?

What head gasket would be best? A standard one or will I need a special one?

Thanks Pepper
Click to expand...

In my opinion and based on previous turbo setups a standard headgasket is generally ok for say 7psi. They seem to start to get sketchy at around 10psi, some have been ok, others not but cars and setups vary and perhaps some were just unlucky.

Factually though, I believe polly is the best point of contact as he's given his car plenty of stick on tracks etc. So before saying any more, (as honestly I am an N/A man still), I would have a dig through his blog and/or shoot Pollyp a PM and ask him. With everything he's done to his car so far he should be able to give you an honest answer :)
 
Low Rider said:
Factually though, I believe polly is the best point of contact as he's given his car plenty of stick on tracks etc. So before saying any more, (as honestly I am an N/A man still), I would have a dig through his blog and/or shoot Pollyp a PM and ask him. With everything he's done to his car so far he should be able to give you an honest answer :)
Click to expand...

totally agree (Y)
 
I've read every post in Polly's build and I know he uses the standard engine at 10psi but he had a forged engine too that didn't work out for him so it throws up more questions lol

Thanks for all the input guys :)

Pepper
 
K11SS said:
I've read every post in Polly's build and I know he uses the standard engine at 10psi but he had a forged engine too that didn't work out for him so it throws up more questions lol

Thanks for all the input guys :)

Pepper
Click to expand...

heya
yep i'm using my grey micras original engine (it was an auto so its a closed deck block), with a normal multilayer HG and 10psi boost.
been to afew tracks and runs tip top.
one time when my wastegate line severed, it briefly went upto 20psi and it was still intact.

the forged piston engine was just over-bored wayy too much so the rings leaked badly from the beginning. new block is getting remachined n balanced as we speak.
HG that came with the forged engine blew cos it was a cheapo soft composite type that breaks apart easily. replacing with a MLS gasket which don't break apart fixed it.
 
pollyp said:
heya
yep i'm using my grey micras original engine (it was an auto so its a closed deck block), with a normal multilayer HG and 10psi boost.
been to afew tracks and runs tip top.
one time when my wastegate line severed, it briefly went upto 20psi and it was still intact.

the forged piston engine was just over-bored wayy too much so the rings leaked badly from the beginning. new block is getting remachined n balanced as we speak.
HG that came with the forged engine blew cos it was a cheapo soft composite type that breaks apart easily. replacing with a MLS gasket which don't break apart fixed it.
Click to expand...

Really looking forward to that forged engine build :)

So you are using a closed deck block then, cool cause I might be buying a 42k auto engine which means I can run 10psi and feel a bit more confident :)

Pepper
 
K11SS said:
I asked him the same question, he said "Can get em from nissan dealers or engine parts store bout £50-£80. Avoid them cheap £30 eBay hg"

Hope he doesn't mind me quoting him :)

Pepper
Click to expand...

the factory ones are composite ones tho aint they fwn
 
I've never seen an MLS gasket for the K11. All the Nissan ones I have seen are standard composite gaskets, (all be them good quality ones compared to some of the pattern ones), and all the aftermarket ones I have seen have been Cu.

If mine fails I'll more than likely go see Mike Tanski from Ferriday for a custom one but it's always good to know what's available for the K11 other than an OEM solution.
 
no prob pep

frank according to wiki the expensive genuine gasket i get from the dealers and what i'm currently using are MLS type, it doesn't break apart and is coated with this rubbery coating.
the cheapo £30 gaskets from ebay are the old composite type which are basically a single perforated metal sheet sandwiched by a soft waxy graphite coating which breaks apart very easily, especially when taking the head off and is a mess to clean up.
 
So yours are like this polly?

3393271648_88f297c27b.jpg
 
here's one i'm currently using

dsc04692t.jpg
dsc04693c.jpg


genuine nissan looks like rubbery grey cardboard

254n.jpg


not taken a genuine gasket apart before, got an old spare one in the back, just a sec...
 
ah correction
the genuine HG is composite-type but uses a much harder material, its like high density cardboard. the messy cheapo gaskets felt much softer

dsc05436j.jpg
dsc05439u.jpg


different manufacturers use different materials for various specs
​
 
I have a custom-made MLS headgasket on my turbo engine:


IMG_0132.jpg


IMG_0133.jpg



Used Hylomar Blue sealant (and its a closed deck block):


IMG_0142.jpg
 

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