I posted a little while ago that the Micra would crank but not start, I fitted a new Dizzy and it fired up and ran no problem, I took it out for a little test drive and everything seemed fine. Well the other half went into town with it and told me it kept stalling but fired back up straight away. I checked that everything was tight on the Dizzy, no fuel leaks, everything seemed fine so I did the paper clip test and got 55. I changed the Plugs, Air Filter & HT Leads and fuel filter, took it out for a drive and it did the same thing again. I remembered that when the young RAC chap came out to recover the car he squirted a lot of "Easy Start" down into the Throttle body but there was crud on the mesh when he did it so now Im thinking that dirt is on the Maff sensor. I got the clip and mesh off and sure enough there was a lot of crud on the wires and stem ... its the one you cant take out ... I cleaned it with Air Intake cleaner that is ok to use on the maff sensor, I used it on my Merc when that needed cleaning, I then cleaned all the plug connections with the right cleaner, Checked visually for vacuum hose leaks but everything seemed ok. I put everything back together fired it up no problem albeit some smoke from the exhaust that would be the cleaner burning off, it only lasted a min or so then was normal, I let it idle and kept blipping the accelerator and everything seemed to be fine so went out for another test drive. It seemed as if I had sorted it, I gave it some stick on the industrial estate then all of a sudden lost power, it didnt cut out it was as if the engine was Hunting for fuel. I popped the bonnet to see if anything stood out.. nothing .. there is a plug centre of the air box I gave that a push and a wiggle, lo and behold the engine picked up but still not right, could it be a fluke I think so, my thoughts now are it could be the fuel pump not keeping up with the demand so Ive ordered a new one just to eliminate that possibility... another Paper Clip test gave me 55 again, there is one thing about this... everything will be new on top ... any thought would be very welcome... cold fingers again later ... Steve
Still having problems
- Thread starter Steve Johnson
- Start date
OP
OP
The timing is spot on I set it when I put the new dizzy in, The problem seems to be when fuel is demanded, going round the streets at say 25 -30 mph is ok but when you put your foot down the problem starts, Ive read about the dry joints in the TB so will have a look at that... Thank you for the Advice its appreciated...
OP
OP
Was about to re do the timing as it was out as Maarten suggested, Warmed up the engine, got everything ready but it wouldnt start and the Managment light started to flash... the paper clip showed 142 secondary air pump no air ... can anyone tell me where this pump is located there is nothing in the haynes and I cant find it by Mr Google Getting really frustrated...lol
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That sounds complicated Frank .. Ive no idea what it means to be honest...
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Thanks Maarten, you were right about the timing,, its way off, the pointer isnt anywhere near the first + notch on the right of the pully ... new strobe light found it...
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I hadnt started Frank, I checked it yesterday with the new strobe and found it was way out, so today I warmed the engine up to temp then swithched it of, I had to remove the battery to get at the back bolt on the dizzy and slackened it off a little, Put the battery back on, disconnected the tp as stated in haynes, Connected the strobe and went to start the engine and the flashing light came on. I did the paper clip check and got 142...thats all I did now it wont start...
good ole pollyp sent me this information to check if ignition switch is failed. because i also found yellow engine check light flashing when my ignition switch failed.
have to remove the switch to access the wiring connecting points.
when you turn the key to ACC:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v live) to the white wire (clock backlight / radio / ACC relay1 for cig lighter & wipers / IGN Relay2 for heater fan)
when you turn to IGN:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v) to the white wire (accessaries)
-connects black/white wire(12v) to the green/white wire (IGN Relay1 for instrument cluster, demister, elec windows / ecu 12v power / injectors / ign coils / fuel pump relay)
when you start:
-barrel cuts off the white wire (accessaries)
-connects the black/white wire (12v) to the green/white wire (ecu/injectors/ign coil & fuel pump)
-connects black/white wire (12v) to black/red wire (starter),
-connects black/white wire (12v) to the red wire(tells ecu you're starting the car)
have to remove the switch to access the wiring connecting points.
when you turn the key to ACC:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v live) to the white wire (clock backlight / radio / ACC relay1 for cig lighter & wipers / IGN Relay2 for heater fan)
when you turn to IGN:
-barrel connects the black/white wire (12v) to the white wire (accessaries)
-connects black/white wire(12v) to the green/white wire (IGN Relay1 for instrument cluster, demister, elec windows / ecu 12v power / injectors / ign coils / fuel pump relay)
when you start:
-barrel cuts off the white wire (accessaries)
-connects the black/white wire (12v) to the green/white wire (ecu/injectors/ign coil & fuel pump)
-connects black/white wire (12v) to black/red wire (starter),
-connects black/white wire (12v) to the red wire(tells ecu you're starting the car)
OP
OP
Thank you ... I have an auto electrician coming next week that Ive used on my Merc when its immobiliser stuck, plus an electronics Key code chap who is going to check out everything related, I am hopeless with auto electrics when it involves ECU`s etc. Never had a problem with this little car untill now and it seems its one thing after another .. but it will be fixed as its too good not to do so... I appreciate your help... Steve..
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UPDATE SORTED .... I had the Auto Locksmith out, He came on Thursday and spent 4 hours trying to solve the NATS problem to no avail, It was freezing cold but he got stuck in until it was too dark to work. He came back today as arranged with a reader he borrowed of a fellow Auto Locksmith who had used it on a K11 Micra with a similar problem but couldnt get a connection. He took out the ECU and opened it up and apparently found dry joints. he took the ECU into his van and was in there for about an hour. The next thing I get a knock on the door, I go outside and the Micra is running like it always did. The NATS is still functioning as it should as he took the chip out and the Engine light started to flash... chip back in and it fired up first turn of the key. He let the engine cool down while he was refitting the ECU and all the bits he had to take of then started the car again.. fired up first turn of the key so I am a very happy man right now. just need to do the timing in the morning then she who must be obeyed can have her little car back. I have to shield so didnt get to watch what he did first hand but he spent a total of 7 hours fixing my problem, I got it done through the RAC Key insurance so he could have just said it was unfixable and still got paid but he said it wasnt in his nature to be beaten ... a great ideal to have. I dropped him a few notes for his diligence and determination as a token of my gratitude, he saved me a lot of money. I dont know if its allowed but if anyone up here in the Wigan/ Northwest/Liverpool areas need a chap like this I will gladly pass on his details .....
