small brass capsule in idle control valve tube

Charlotte001

Ex. Club Member
I've just replaced all the pipes on my k10's engine and came across a small brass capsule in the one which leads from the idle control solenoid or anti dieseling soleniod into the small vacuum unit on the carb is this capsule important or another bodge job? I can't find mention of it in the manual nor does it appear to do anything I'm guessing there's supposed to be a small hole in it to control air. I only ask as my K10 runs perfectly just when I hit the brakes or slow down at junctions/roundabouts/traffic lamps or even the 9pm speed check by the local police the engine cuts out unless i hit the accelerator just as I stop

For the life of me I cannot find the problem other than a total top rebuild including carb I'm stumpted: Timing is ok idling ok meter content ok clearance to spec carb clean pipes replaced idle solenoid clicking under test leads plugs rotor arm new air filter new all sensors replaced or to specs. I'm starting to think it's the idle control solenoid or anti dieseling solenoid faulty though even though it's passing the tests.

Any ideas if I can get the solenoid at a Lucas dealer or is it main dealer only? What's its cost

Thanks Charlotte
 

Courior

Fat ppl r harder 2 kidnap
Did you check the idle speed thingy under the seat? maybe its loose or something? also check my thread on "rough idle on MA10", it may give u some ideas of what you can check next.

one thing that it could be.. i had this on one of my motorbikes, the choke was stuck on EVER SO SLIGHTLY, not even enough to make idling rough. but after a bit of constant speed when the revs dropped (putting on the brakes) and i pulled the clutch in there was too much fuel going in and it stalled. make sure the autochoke is doing its thing!
 
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Charlotte001

Ex. Club Member
The autochoke is doing it's thing, the box under the seat is connected. The idling speed was set at around 1600 in N on the autobox so I've lowered it to the 800-/+ 50 rpms and it's a lot worse seem the high idle speed is stopping the thing cutting out.

I've replaced all that can be replaced with exception to the anti dieseling solenoid and the idle speed solenoid. I've adjusted everything which can be adjusted and it's getting worse. I'll check yours and all the other posts on rough idling to see if there's anything I haven't already checked.

Charlotte

There was one suggestion which I hadn't thought of within the posts about rough idling concerning upping the CO to 1.7 as mine is set to 1.3. Sammo has also hit it on the head as mine only gets worse when the engine is hot. I'm starting to consider the belt as the car is 20years old and only done a genuine 39,910 miles.

Anyone know the cost and availability of the idle speed and anti diesel solenoids? Pondering a complete engine rebuild next week (got nothing on the bench) so I can decide whether to fit the 1.2 or an larger engine to give a little more poke or just have the engine balanced/lightened and the head polished and ported might go for larger valves too with a better cam.

Charlotte

Charlotte
 

Fordy

Ex. Club Member
i say have a read in the hanyes on the idle setup for a automotic as i think if its anything like a figaro you have to setup the idle when its in gear aswell so it doesnt cut out when stoping etc
 
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Charlotte001

Ex. Club Member
Haynes, Nissan and Autodata say to set the idle in Neutral. I'm going to raise the amount of fuel tomorrow as it does seem to be running lean.

Charlotte
 

Fordy

Ex. Club Member
ive set mine to 1.7 on the co and its pretty good on fuel if im not guning it

it could be a bit of crud in the idle jet, i had this causing loads of faults after i cleaned up my carb
 
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