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Skinners Sprint Micra
- Thread starter Skinner_87
- Start date
OP
OP
Bit of an update engine & box are out ready for a once over & to retreive the piece of the shim from somewere in the sump 
Engine bay is looking a bit messy again so that will be getting a fresh coat of paint over the next few weeks.
I never got a pic of the BoggBrothers manifold up first time round so here she is...
New plan is to extract as much as i can from a N/A motor, i think id miss the carbs (for now anyway) so a 1 litre pulley wheel will be going on the crank quite a mass difference in comparison to the damper fitted factory 1.3 pulley: (thanks go to Frank here)
Got round to uploading my first timed run of the Manx Classic out of the Grandstand, she makes quite a nice noise
Engine bay is looking a bit messy again so that will be getting a fresh coat of paint over the next few weeks.
I never got a pic of the BoggBrothers manifold up first time round so here she is...
New plan is to extract as much as i can from a N/A motor, i think id miss the carbs (for now anyway) so a 1 litre pulley wheel will be going on the crank quite a mass difference in comparison to the damper fitted factory 1.3 pulley: (thanks go to Frank here
)
Got round to uploading my first timed run of the Manx Classic out of the Grandstand, she makes quite a nice noise
OP
OP
Hey folks bit of an update.........................
Manual steering rack arrived today, powersteering rack was removed & manual universal joint checked...... ITS FITS lil weight off my mind..
All powersteering ancilaries have been taken off the block & pipework from the engine bay..
Il be weighing the removed parts & seeing just how much the cars shead!
As well as a deivery of a few shiny bits & as always... PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN
Manual steering rack arrived today, powersteering rack was removed & manual universal joint checked...... ITS FITS
lil weight off my mind..All powersteering ancilaries have been taken off the block & pipework from the engine bay..
Il be weighing the removed parts & seeing just how much the cars shead!
As well as a deivery of a few shiny bits & as always... PICS OR IT DIDNT HAPPEN
OP
OP
Well no shiny bits have turned up yet
Saturday i set about unpicking the unused sensors from the engine bay loom as they arnt used whilst running carbs (but will be kept incase injection is used again)
Sunday was sorting the engine bay out removing any last bits of rust, oxiding them & sticking the 1st coat over them :
BEFORE
AFTER
Fingers crossed il have a nice parcel waiting when i get home tomorrow evening!
Saturday i set about unpicking the unused sensors from the engine bay loom as they arnt used whilst running carbs (but will be kept incase injection is used again)
Sunday was sorting the engine bay out removing any last bits of rust, oxiding them & sticking the 1st coat over them :
BEFORE
AFTER
Fingers crossed il have a nice parcel waiting when i get home tomorrow evening!
OP
OP
Well there was a nice big box waiting for me when i got home
Uprated 23.8mm bore master cylinder (fast you go the quicker you need to stop!) as rust has set into the current factory unit
Same for the driver engine mount & passenger gearbox mount replaced by some lovely HOL poly units
Since the engine & box are out a TTV Racing flywheel (2.8kg) will be replacing the slightly lightend factory F/W
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
Uprated 23.8mm bore master cylinder (fast you go the quicker you need to stop!) as rust has set into the current factory unit
Same for the driver engine mount & passenger gearbox mount replaced by some lovely HOL poly units
Since the engine & box are out a TTV Racing flywheel (2.8kg) will be replacing the slightly lightend factory F/W
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
I know what you mean mate i try not to think about it Your going to end up with a belting motor at the end of it though!!
Your going to end up with a belting motor at the end of it though!!
Anywho love your car, its totally my taste And good luck with the engine refitting etc
OP
OP
Yeah i know it'll be worth it. I have all the reciepts for the future so the thicker the pile gets the more im like uh oh! Full engine work can still be done aswell....
Anywho love your car, its totally my taste And good luck with the engine refitting etc
Anywho love your car, its totally my taste And good luck with the engine refitting etc
OP
OP
well i was more interested in the susp setup to be honest mate just seeing how flat it took the bends in your videos
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
Rear
Sr disc axel with strengthening brackets welded on
Nismo Bushed uper rear trailing arms
Rose jointed rear trailing arms
55mm Hol tarmac springs
Bilstien sport dampers
22mm Whiteline rear antiroll bar with polybushes
Skinner made rose jointed solid drop links
Adjustable panardrod
Front
22mm antirollbar with polybushes
Polybushed antirollbar links
Bilstien sport dampers
55mm Hol tarmac springs
OMP Strutbrace
Wheels & Tyres
Team dynamics 1.2 14 x 7
Uniroyal rainsport 2 195/45/14
All in handles spot on just very very firm!!
Well there was a nice big box waiting for me when i got home
Uprated 23.8mm bore master cylinder (fast you go the quicker you need to stop!) as rust has set into the current factory unit
Same for the driver engine mount & passenger gearbox mount replaced by some lovely HOL poly units
Since the engine & box are out a TTV Racing flywheel (2.8kg) will be replacing the slightly lightend factory F/W
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
Uprated 23.8mm bore master cylinder (fast you go the quicker you need to stop!) as rust has set into the current factory unit
Same for the driver engine mount & passenger gearbox mount replaced by some lovely HOL poly units
Since the engine & box are out a TTV Racing flywheel (2.8kg) will be replacing the slightly lightend factory F/W
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
OP
OP
Removing the old bushes is easiest if you set them alight.
looking good though skinner...you get the bonnet from matt aswell ?
looking good though skinner...you get the bonnet from matt aswell ?
Yep the bonnets from Matt think it was his first batch of facelift ones to be made, only had a quick test fit but all looks good though!
OP
OP
For these the rubber and outer metal ring need to come out mate from measuring them up, il line them up as best as from the old bush & then bolt the mounts to the car half tight then to the engine & box when they are craned in... i think this should be easier than having them in situ
Yep i fitted the aero latches too bud, not hard but worth taking your time, measure twice & all that!
Yep i fitted the aero latches too bud, not hard but worth taking your time, measure twice & all that!
OP
OP
Mount the bonnet pin at a rough height first
Put a blob of oil on top of the pin & lower down the bonnet to mark where the pin will need to go through
(any of the support structure thats above this mark will need to be cut back to allow the catch to be fitted later)
Where the oil mark is drill a hole a little larger than the pin
Now the bonnet should be able to be lowered shut with the pin sticking out of it
Now using the guide that comes with the pins masking tape up the bonnet & draw a cross instersecting the top of the pin.
This gives you exactly where to cut out the kidney shape of the catch & also where to drill holes for the mounting bolts.
Drill the mounting holes out first as once the catch hole is cut out the bonnet wil flex alot more.
Cut out bonnet catch hole (dremel will do a good job of this)
Then its just a case of bolting the catch on and adjusting the height of the pin to get the bonnet sitting flush, this is done with a rubber that sits over the pin you can cut to desired height.
A tip here is to cut it a little high as over time the rubber will settle with opening & shutting
job done
Put a blob of oil on top of the pin & lower down the bonnet to mark where the pin will need to go through
(any of the support structure thats above this mark will need to be cut back to allow the catch to be fitted later)
Where the oil mark is drill a hole a little larger than the pin
Now the bonnet should be able to be lowered shut with the pin sticking out of it
Now using the guide that comes with the pins masking tape up the bonnet & draw a cross instersecting the top of the pin.
This gives you exactly where to cut out the kidney shape of the catch & also where to drill holes for the mounting bolts.
Drill the mounting holes out first as once the catch hole is cut out the bonnet wil flex alot more.
Cut out bonnet catch hole (dremel will do a good job of this)
Then its just a case of bolting the catch on and adjusting the height of the pin to get the bonnet sitting flush, this is done with a rubber that sits over the pin you can cut to desired height.
A tip here is to cut it a little high as over time the rubber will settle with opening & shutting
job done
OP
OP
Cheers skinner without sounding stupid does the latch bolt to tge metal from tge bonnet or is there nuts/ fixing plate goes underneath
without sounding stupid does the latch bolt to tge metal from tge bonnet or is there nuts/ fixing plate goes underneath
ask sleeper ss he may be able to tell you he removed it in this thread iirc http://micra.org.uk/threads/rat.31477/
OP
OP
Hi Guys well the dash & pod are done, pods front cover is a matt black persex sheet which will house the oil pressure gague as well to keep it in my eye line
Before the dash goes back in theres a few jobs with the brakes like fitting a T piece & grometing a hole for the oil pressure capilary pipe in the bulkhead, so that will have to wait for now untill the master cylinder & pipework is routed with these fittings...................
Brake lines some assembly required
Shims for the group A cams & 6 flywheel bolts have arrived so hopefully the engine will be built over the next weekend.... this weeks plan is to try to get as far with the brakes as i can, also with a guide of how to make you own braided lines
Before the dash goes back in theres a few jobs with the brakes like fitting a T piece & grometing a hole for the oil pressure capilary pipe in the bulkhead, so that will have to wait for now untill the master cylinder & pipework is routed with these fittings...................
Brake lines some assembly required
Shims for the group A cams & 6 flywheel bolts have arrived so hopefully the engine will be built over the next weekend.... this weeks plan is to try to get as far with the brakes as i can, also with a guide of how to make you own braided lines
Well there was a nice big box waiting for me when i got home
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
& last & by no means least a GRP Facelift bonnet to keep the cars diet plodding along at only 5kg
So this weekend is set to be busy! Manual rack to refit along with the engine bay ancillaries ready for the engines return over the next few weeks......
Il be starting a post below to show the various weights of parts removed / replaced which (fingers crossed) should be a fair weight by the end!!
Pm if you want
Anyway awesome works!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OP
OP
Well thanks to Karl these arrived the other day, made sense whilegetting a bigger master cylinder to get it something worth pushing so its going to be Gti up front
Calipers & carriers were stripped bear, ground back & new seals, clips & dust boots fitted along with a coat or redoxide which is just going off at the moment, weather depending to get a nice coat of satin black & some VHT some time soon:
Calipers & carriers were stripped bear, ground back & new seals, clips & dust boots fitted along with a coat or redoxide which is just going off at the moment, weather depending to get a nice coat of satin black & some VHT some time soon:
OP
OP
Since the engine bay is clear the bigger M/Cylinder went in today as well, though the old copper rear lines were routed as a best fit around the motor last time so in the bin they went & i cracked on with replacing them with stainless lines as below:
The fittings come in 3 parts with a crushable olive in the middle (this needs to be replaced each time the fitting is re used)
A T-piece was bolted on just below the brake servo where the 2 rear lines will be merged to one before the pipework runs to the rear. Then you will need to cut the line to size. I found the best (cheapest) way to be a 7mm hole in a split block of wood. Wrap some tape around the pipe to prevent fraying & use a fine blade saw:
Clear out any swarf with a flat screwdriver & slide both of the screw fitting for each connection over the pipe now (this make its alot easyer to slide them over as the next step makes it nearly impossible!)
Pry back the braiding to the depth of the olive being carefull not to fray it too much & press the olive over the pipe core (it should push flush against the pipe so it seats neat at the end)
Next up push your end fitting onto the pipe & clamp in a vice, now slide up the bottom fitting & tighten to crush the olive in place
Repeat for the other end of the pipe & job done
Two lines done & one to go
The fittings come in 3 parts with a crushable olive in the middle (this needs to be replaced each time the fitting is re used)
A T-piece was bolted on just below the brake servo where the 2 rear lines will be merged to one before the pipework runs to the rear. Then you will need to cut the line to size. I found the best (cheapest) way to be a 7mm hole in a split block of wood. Wrap some tape around the pipe to prevent fraying & use a fine blade saw:
Clear out any swarf with a flat screwdriver & slide both of the screw fitting for each connection over the pipe now (this make its alot easyer to slide them over as the next step makes it nearly impossible!)
Pry back the braiding to the depth of the olive being carefull not to fray it too much & press the olive over the pipe core (it should push flush against the pipe so it seats neat at the end)
Next up push your end fitting onto the pipe & clamp in a vice, now slide up the bottom fitting & tighten to crush the olive in place
Repeat for the other end of the pipe & job done
Two lines done & one to go
