Sill replacement

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
So now that BEF is just sitting on my drive due to sill rust, do I patch, use the pattern part to replace a section or replace the whole sill with the part?

The sills already have had so patching when I bought it and even that is a little messy and looks to have a rust issue. As the rust isn't just on the flat of the underside which happened before, the patch job I had done warped the curve and was unsightly, had to fibreglass the area and is still not so good.

The pattern part is this

12750L.jpg


so the curves are still gonna be there, the hardest part will be making sure it fits the rear panel where it'll be cut (a challeneg it is then)

I know the whole sill replacement will be a biggish job for a beginner welder but I'm assuming it's easier than patching (changing whole frontend is easier than a crossmember change)

Also there are some small holes (can just about get a finger in) on the inner sill/floor panel, is it ok to treat the rust, weld a peice from the inside (if I take whole outer sill off) then f/g the hole over?

Advice is much appreciated
 
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goldstar0011

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
Practising is a defo, just need to find out whats best thing to do, if it's a patch I need to practise that, if repalcing whole sill I need to practise "butt welding" and "puddle welding" as I don't have a spot welder
 

wilsonian

Ex. Club Member
best do the whole sill.

fathers on cav was patched and a few years down the road it started again just a few inches down....
 
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Norsken

Guest
Sounds like the rustdamage have got far on your car. It sounds like you need to replace the whole sill (or mot of it). Notice that if the rust damage is only in the rear part of the sill, you actually do not need to do anything on the front part. Then you only use the bit of the sill replacement part that you need.
 
for the work involved in patching and getting the curves right, you may as well just put a complete new sill on, at least you'll know its rust free then.
 
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goldstar0011

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
The front parts are ok actually but to cut and match the panel would be more hassle than doing the whole thing and like sonic says would be harder to match the curve right
 
you know it makes sense to replace the whole thing, the fronts gonna rust eventually, replace the lot, waxoyl them, no more rot or worry.
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
im busy replacing my sills also...kinda scary when you first start cutting lol, just make sure you leave enough room to tidy up.

Plus it'll give you the chance to relocate the drain pipes, that way they shouldnt ever really rust.
 

babyboom

Ex. Club Member
hey gary, that sill you got pictured, is that something that can be bought, cos my sills are very badly bubbling with rust but its not came through the paint yet
 

babyboom

Ex. Club Member
Total £(GBP) £23.70
Delivery £(GBP) £10.00
VAT £(GBP) £5.90
GRAND TOTAL £(GBP) £39.60



and thats just for one, i think i'll keep an eye on ebay lol
 
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goldstar0011

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
So now for me this weekend am gonna remove all the paint off the sills and start looking at what needs to be done to rmove them properly
 

kristian

One Way Mule
The ful replacement is much easier than you think... Just like the full front end..

untitledqo4.jpg


The green areas are all spot welds.. the Red are seam welds..

Spots are easy.. Drill them out the Re-fill with Weld to ensure a good joint....

Be sure to really sand down the rusted metal before welding.. and glass over the seam welds... with a Skim of filler..
 
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ricardo_swarez

Guest
A spot weld is when you create a current on each side of the materials you want to join, the current creates so much heat that the metals fuse together creating a weld. Drilling a hole and filling it with weld wouldnt create a spot weld, it would create the same effect as riveting but without any pressure on the rivet.

A seam weld is just like a spot weld, were theres a current on each side of the materials being joined, but the current is usualy on rollers, and the rollers turn moving the current along the two materials creating a long drawn out spot weld. As far as I know, you two both have arc welders, so unless you have a fitting for spot welds you won't be able to do them.

A true weld isnt just joining two pieces of material together, its creating a fuse at an atomic level, making both materials almost be as one by creating so much heat energy that the atoms vibrate violently and overlap eachother so the materials are joined by the overlapping atoms.
 
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goldstar0011

goldstar0011

Ex. Club Member
Smart man!

Basically short versions of what my books say.
Am look at getting a hand spot welder or finding out how to use the spot weld adapter for mig welders.
 
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