setting timing with a strobe on a k10

if your crank pulley is not rusted to bits it should be easy:


This is essentially the same as the gunsons strobe....as far as I can see....

I will dig my gunsons instructions out tomorrow,scan 'em and post em this shoud help u understand the principles

the main things to watch out for are:

SAFETY FIRST:
1. be extra carefull not to get ANYTHING cought in moving engine parts.
2. be careful of HT voltages

Equipment:
3. the pickup probe clamp is fragile..try not to drop it or bump it off things

Adjustment:
4. be very subtle when altering any timing angles otherwise poor performance or engine damage could occur:
 

Turtle

Ex. Club Member
I just did this job yesterday actually, its pretty straight forward but points to remember:

  • Take off the vacuum hose if you can find it, don't think it makes all that much difference? I cant actually find it on mine, anyone know where its located on the MA12S??
  • Use tip-ex to mark out the lines on the timing guage and on the spinny wheel thingy... just makes it easier to see whats going on.
  • The idle speed needs to be correct, and the engine warmed up, so if you dont have a rev counter get one you can attach while you do the job. You gotta set the timing at 800rpm...
  • And very wise with the safety first points Sammo, also watch out for the radiator fan!! Scares the crap out of you when your carefully ajusting the dizzy and that turns on!!

Made a great difference to my car, actually accelarates in 4th now and its stopped misfiring when its cold.

Someone will tell me if im wrong lol
 
I'm assuming you have a haynes with the timing angles for your car (dont forget to check revisions for later moddles)

heres the scan:
 

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cardiffboy27

cardiffboy27

Ex. Club Member
thanks for all the info it realy helped :)
my k 10 was 20 degrees out and i got her to 10 degrees by moving the dissy
how do i get it further would it involve taking the cam belt off ?

also will i see an improvement in my fuel and performance ? with how far out it was?
cheers all
Ian :)
 
yes you will see an improvement

The cam belt must remain on the engine as it is needed for the engin to run (without it the engine will not run)

I dont have my Haynes to hand, but for my model, the timing should be set with the vacuum hose DISCONECTED...and I think the value should be around 2 degrees after top dead center

For indication purposes the timing should be 12 degrees before top dead centre with the vacuum CONNECTED(where the bulk of the timing marks are on the cam belt cover)

The vacuum hose to be disconnected/re-connected is the one that goes tot he dic diphragm atached to the distributer. Its a black pipe with a rubber bit of pipe in the end
 

Krian

Fear me, for I am Onibaku
page 91 - 92 of the owners workshop manual for the older engine, 259 for the electronic ignition...
 
no figures in the haynes but there are VALUES...at teh beginning of the ignition chapter and "suplement-revisions for later models" chapter
 

stonesie

Grease Monkey!
thanks for all the info it realy helped :)
my k 10 was 20 degrees out and i got her to 10 degrees by moving the dissy
how do i get it further would it involve taking the cam belt off ?

also will i see an improvement in my fuel and performance ? with how far out it was?
cheers all
Ian :)


For it to be that far out of spec i would think that the engine is not timed up correctly, check it using the timeing marks in haynes and if its out then you may aswell replace the belt and tensioner.

I never re-tension an old cambelt and for the cost of them i wouldnt advise anyone else to either, if it snaps on a K10 it can mean a new engine.:k10:
 
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