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Ryan's Micra Blog

Okay, I haven't completely given up.
I thought "F*** it" and took apart everything I could in the donor car. Seems that the passenger airbag is part of the whole dash. I wish I knew that, I would have been more careful with scratching it.
One thing that would not come off was that little switch on the ignition barrel. It looks like that's responsible for making the interior light come on when the key is removed. Can it be removed?
Also. I removed the locking mechanism for the door (the whole thing). Looks like I could transfer all of this stuff over without needing to change the keys. But then there is the NATS problem, and the remote locking problem. Can I take the metal part of the key out from the plastic part?

I took the relay and fuse box out too. Found the wires leading to the door. Got them all out. Now I'm hoping that Cassie has some plugs in the back of the box that these can go into. If that's the case then I'm guessing the window mechanism will swap right over. Though I haven't looked at the passenger door yet.

These are taking up quite some space...

I shall try out the new aerial on the way to work. Cassie's original was one of those huge RC car looking ones that snapped off long ago.

Just taping the door closed and covering the window as I'm going away for Christmas.

This might be the last post of the year!

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I got myself some new boot struts before Christmas.

Today I've just been pulling out more and more from the donor car. Removed the rear pop-out windows in hopes to fit them to Cassie but she lacks some bolt holes...
I wanted to get the power windows in too today but there aren't any plugs to go into. So I started pulling out the wiring loom and well... it's a hell of a task.

One thing I did do was swap over the A pillar trim, as the donor had the correct colour.

Interesting difference of marking on the back. Must be the colour code or something.

Swapped over the driver side seatbelt buckle, as my old one was heavily marked, and would occasionally fall apart, which was annoying. Now I need to get used to not squeezing it back together when I take my belt off.

Thought I may as well fit the new boot struts since I've basically failed everything else. Here's with one new one on to show the difference. The old left one fell off one time and slammed the boot, damaging the old tail light. I really didn't want that to happen to my new ones.

Two new boot struts. I was surprised at how easily they went on, they pretty much just popped in.


Happy new year!

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More work today... I've kind of committed myself now, tearing apart my only remaining form of transport.

Apparently there was a pen between the dashboard and the windscreen this whole time.

And I did it! I was so "in the zone" that I didn't really take any pictures. But it freaking works! POWER WINDOWS, WOO!

There is a circuit breaker of which the wire comes from the engine bay fusebox. This wire was nowhere to be found so I found it in the fuse box, and made a new wire (that white one) that goes into the right wing. It comes through the rubber seal for the door wires and into the circuit breaker module. This was a bit of a worrying task. The blue wire actually goes only to the white one now as I couldn't get it to go back together. Hopefully (and I've checked the wiring diagrams) this doesn't feed something else. Another worry was that the wire is really thick. Luckily the white wire comes as a double stuck together (really handy actually), so I just used both as one larger one.

Getting dark now, this bracket supports the passenger airbag, which I will take. Curiously there were already two nuts on the right.
Also take a look at my interior fan: Looks like crap. That's probably why it squeaks.

The two dashboards... My original one is much cleaner than the new one but that can be fixed. The new one is a little less scratchy too which is nice. And of course it has the passenger airbag. Luckily the wiring for that is already in place, so I don't think I need to swap over the airbag modules.


It got too dark so I gave up with fitting the new dashboard. Seems like it's much harder to get one in than out.

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I should add;
The door cards didn't match (I only took the arm rest/window switches). Yes, I could've just swapped the whole things over but the new car is so dirty, and has a big patch of mould. I made some modifications and it's pretty much fine. The wires to the switches barely fit though, hopefully they don't break.
 
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I got the dash in. It was a real pain...

It's not quite straight as half of the bolts holding it in don't line up, but it's secure and doesn't move.
Got the passenger electric window in place and working, wasn't difficult, nicely.
My bodged airbag connection finally failed so I bought the proper Almera squib for the steering wheel which will arrive soon. That also means one step closer to steering wheel radio controls.

The damn heat control on the air settings broke a bit at the back, hopefully my quick fix holds.

Oh also, guys don't forget, the battery won't charge if the dash instrument gauges aren't connected. I was wondering why the lights were getting dimmer and my new window toys were getting slower, with the engine running, so I plugged it in to see if there was some electrical charging warning. It suddenly all came back to life and I remembered reading that somewhere on here
 
There needs to be current going to the alternator via the charge light to get things going, after the alternator fires up them the light goes out (i think something like the current wants to go the other way but can't so the charge light goes out).
 
Years ago it used to stop charging if the bulb failed, but there's a resistor in the instrument cluster now for that reason.

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Ah, a resistor and a diode up near the instrument panel? When I made up my mini's wiring loom I was wondering if I needed those, it worked without them so I left it. That was one of the reasons I thought it might be there but I didn't confirm it... Thanks.
 
Almera squib/spigot/[some other weird name]. Now I'll have a proper airbag connection, and I'm one step closer to getting the radio controls to work.
Still need to understand how exactly. It sends a voltage through resistors based on what button is pressed and gets measured. Or something.



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Had to tidy up my wire feeding the windows (and soon locking) as it was doing what I hoped it wouldn't, flopping against the exhaust manifold. This is much nicer, also not really visible from the front.

Thought since there is finally light, and no rain or cold, I'd get that clock spring on! Especially as I've had the airbag warning light flashing and my steering wheel not-quite-straight since I last fiddled. Interesting thing: The airbag wires (Micra side only) are silver inside. Huh. Also they didn't match the wiring diagram I use...

Tada! Finally in place. The correct airbag socket, and the infamous radio controls plug that doesn't exist online. Done. Steering wheel should hopefully be straight now too. Will begin looking into the radio controls, already contacted Sony asking about the resistance values and stuff.

I had an issue resetting the SRS though. Put the warning light into diagnostic mode and it gave me code 17, that's 1 long and 7 short flashes.
Seems the issue lies in the passenger module. Looks like I'll have to put the unit in from the donor car and see what happens. For now it's disconnected so I don't get a warning.

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Some remaining goodies finally arrived. On the left are some flat orange LEDs with prewired resistors. I'm thinking of doing a US style front and side indicators on with the rest of the lights, easiest way is probably to have separate LEDs in the units. In case this isn't quite allowed, I'll put them in line with a switch that can disable them.

On the right are the bulbs for my rear fog lamps. They're red and have ####-tons of LEDs.

Thought I'd do a quick test wiring. Looks good so far, those bulbs didn't really fit but with an appropriate amount of persuasion they did, very snugly.
Ignore the suitcase.

Definitely should get this done soon. There has been so much fog in the last month or so.

Nice, just need a drill now and some time with warm dry weather.

Oh, also, I fixed my issue with the door light switch on the passenger side. The door itself wasn't quite closing all the way. Would explain how noisy the wind can be from that side.
It's the body-side latch. It was completely loose.
After tightening it, the door immediately worked as it should. Makes a different noise now which is odd. But then again the seal is a little worn. Hopefully it'll keep the heat in a bit better too, it's cold as heck here at nights right now.
 
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Fun update: Battery doesn't seem as strong as it used to be. Wouldn't start after having those lights on for just a little while.
Luckily Cassie weighs about the same as a coffee table so despite quite an incline, I pushed her to the road, and luckily the rest is a pretty extreme downhill. Heh...

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Got myself yet another set of clocks.

Mmmmmm, that's much better! Nice-looking lights and the rev-counter.
Front Fog still didn't come on, must be something missing in my car somewhere. Doesn't matter, I have that LED wired up still.

Oh and this one is under 100,000! By quite a bit actually. So I can one day re-celebrate 100,000 miles.
 
Two new front tyres fitted today, much needed. Was going to get the tracking fixed but apparently that was just the bad tyres. No more shaking steering wheel, and doesn't pull to the right anymore, I think.
I have fixed the remote boot lever too, by swapping the fuel flap mechanism with the one from the donor car.
Treated her to a wash, but I knocked off a numberplate screw which fell into the depths of the jetwash drain. So now I've just stuck a screw in place. Looks a bit stupid but it'll do.
I'm beginning to consider pressed metal plates. Wondering if the front one can be curved like it is right now?
Also I would like to get on with those American-style sidelights. Just need a drill. With a drill I can properly fit the new rear fog lamps too. And maybe the popout rear windows.

I can't wait for summer...
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Might take the exhaust from the donor. It'll look more discreet on Cassie as the lower section is black.

Turns out there were 9 wheel spacers in the boot of the donor!

So I went ahead and put them on the rears of Cassie, to make her even wider. Actually the wheels seem to fit better now. Brakes need more paint.

Looks better. Hard to tell I guess, but that's good. Looks quite wide at the rear especially as the wheels are quite thick.

This much thread theft on the nuts. Let me know if it looks too little. I put them on real tight.

Oh no, it's now a Nissan Marc. ¬_¬

Later on I decided to start with the central locking transplant. At the same time I'll add this high-density foam into the doors to quieten them and reduce (or stop) the music from rattling the window mechanisms.
But uh-oh... This rounded off... Therefore I can't remove the steering wheel, so I can't remove the dash.
Can't chop it out this time either.

I did somewhat remove the dash a bit. This might be enough, but it won't be so easy.
I broke the right side footwell light too... Ugh!

Door cards removed, I added on this clip that I missed when I fitted the electric windows! No wonder the arm rests didn't screw in on the ends.

I've taken the door opening and locking mechanisms off partially too.
Tomorrow morning comes part two.
The mirror switch plug I bought hasn't arrived so sadly I won't be putting in my new mirrors either.
Wait, I didn't post about my new mirrors!
No picture right now but they're the JDM power folding ones, and they have the LED indicators built in. They're chrome, but I will probably spray them black.
 
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Part two.
Mirror... bits... resprayed matte black. Gave them two coats, that should be enough.

Transferred over the locking mechanisms. The non-central-locking one has some kind of bar (lower right) that covers the inner lock arm. I guess to prevent people from sticking a coathanger down the window and pulling it to unlock. The central-locking-one has a totally different cover, that completely covers the lock and all outer mechanisms to the unit.

Both locks transplanted. Interesting how there is a screw/bolt that releases the lower section of the window guide rail, allowing it to rotate away for the lock access. Thanks, Nissan!

Wiring was actually quite easy. I didn't get a picture of it, but it looks a bit like a Jihad Jeep under the panelling. Tidied it up pretty well with cable ties this time. Surprisingly it worked first time, like the windows! I had to bypass the key switch as Cassie doesn't have one. Later on, with the remote unit, it might need that (for pretty fading lights). I was thinking of just chucking a switch in there.
Oh, speaking of lights, I broke the right side footwell light. ####. Well a bit of it still works. I'll buy new ones.

So, since I took out that plastic thing in the door, the window mechanism has been rattling with loud music much more than it used to. It's pretty annoying.
So what I've done is line the door with this high-density foam. Thanks to my friend who found the best one (he's the man to ask about sound/noise questions)(though I doubt he reads this).
This will hopefully reduce noise from high speeds and stuff too. And keep the music volume in more.

Now for those mirrors!

Nice. Damn, should I leave them chrome? I'm not sure. It has that high-end model feel to it.
These are bigger than the standard ones, and significantly heavier. Plus the (now)black bits are thick metal instead of plastic.

Next up I suppose is either getting these mirrors on, or getting the remote locking unit. I've tried to pull it out numerous times but it's really stuck in there.
 
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So you eventually got the mirrors. They look good. It's coming along nicely. Where abouts is that remote unit actually located. I've never been able to find it.

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So you eventually got the mirrors. They look good. It's coming along nicely. Where abouts is that remote unit actually located. I've never been able to find it.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Yes, thanks for helping me out with those, by the way.
The remote unit is on a bracket at the base of the left A pillar. Behind the fan. The body actually curves outwards making almost a pocket it goes into. A real bastard to get out, mainly because of the fan.
 
Can you get to it by just removing the fan, or is it a dash out job.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
You might be able to do it with the fan removed. I've never fully removed it myself so I don't know how hard it might be.
It's probably easier without the dash. But then there's the whole removing the dash business.
Can the fan come out downwards with the dash in then?
 
So I finally got to getting those rear fog lights in. While I still don't own/have access to a drill, I do have access to a dremel. Which was actually really effective.
I lined them up with the symmetrical struts in the bumper.

Two holes done. You might not see in the pictures, but I did a slightly disappointing poor effort on these.

Screwed in and wired up. That last loose wire also went under the bracket and out of the right side.

It actually doesn't look bad. When I repaint the black bits it'll look better still, as the dremel chopped and pulled the grey out at the edges.



Just had a look in the dark. Actually really cool. I like how they're close together.
Might not be bright enough, so one day some better bulbs could go in there. Hopefully the positioning is okay too. They point quite downwards (fog lights tend to) but I have a feeling the MOT requires a totally rearwards facing one.

Well, worst case, I'll just stick one of those under-hanging ones on for the test.

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Lost my old memory stick. So I got a new one that matches the colour scheme of the radio. Only one track on it so far... gonna be a real pain to find and download everything again.
Also, the super-mega-eagle-eyed will notice that I used the radio screws for the centre panel, the only silver ones. So they match the panel. Somewhat un-noticable. But I know it's there.


Also.
Who needs coilovers, when you've got 3 friends?
Looks good with those wheel spacers at the back. Just rubs the arches quite a bit.


And of course feels like it's got no power or handling with people.
I swear this car, even with 5 seatbelts, is only meant for 1 driver alone.

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Having some issues with the steering wheel radio controls.
I took it into university and checked out the resistances and pins. Problem is, I can chuck a couple of resistors inline which will work for the volume and track selection keys, but the resistances for the source and special (will assign to attenuate) buttons are so tiny, the resistors would make them do something else.
Need to think this over more... someone on here got his friend to sort it. Perhaps they could help.


Just bought some crimp pins to slide into the back of my mirror switch, given up now finding the right plug.

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My crimp pins arrived in the post, which I was going to use in the back of the mirror switch. Sadly they are way too small!
Completely fed up, I took a plug from the donor's fuse box, the only similar one I could find, and chopped at it.
I also removed another to fill in the blank pins.


Extreme pro-tip: Make sure you have more than a few millimeters of wire to work with. This wasn't that fun.

It did end up neat though.
So! Armed with little information, I had a whack at it. Luckily Agent_Sm1th gave me a good heads up with wire placement. Had to swap over the adjustment ones though.

For a while it didn't work, which was worrying. Turned out to be a bad test ground.
I drew out my wiring but will get a picture tomorrow.
Suddenly it was night time, but I got everything put in place and wired up.
Found out the one remaining wire, which was for the backlight (used all 10 pins, score!)
It had a bulb and glowed green, I only had red LEDs to replace with but might keep it like that.

All in and working exactly as they should! Kept the chrome for now, I'll see if I grow to like it.


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Having some issues with the steering wheel radio controls.
I took it into university and checked out the resistances and pins. Problem is, I can chuck a couple of resistors inline which will work for the volume and track selection keys, but the resistances for the source and special (will assign to attenuate) buttons are so tiny, the resistors would make them do something else.
Need to think this over more... someone on here got his friend to sort it. Perhaps they could help.


Just bought some crimp pins to slide into the back of my mirror switch, given up now finding the right plug.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
The units (multimeters...etc) I use in uni look near identical. Straight out of the stone age!
The car is looking good!
 
Got some day shots! Quickly chucked her all back together as I was in a rush.
Love these mirrors! They give a surprisingly wide angle, and are generally bigger so the view is excellent. Probably won't put those little circle bits on the ends like the previous ones.


I have run into a slight problem with the right window though. It becomes ridiculously slow right at the top when closing. Will look into that soon. Need to put it back together more neatly anyway.

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Finally some night pictures of the switch illuminated and in place.

The camera doesn't really pick up the red colour...
Might go for white, like in the rear demister switch. This looks nice for now though!
Forgot to add, I couldn't wire up the LED to come on with the sidelights and was a little lazy. So instead, I happened to have a yellow wire from the fusebox already in a connector block for the electric windows.
So the backlight comes on now with the ignition. Good enough.

Also tightened the handbrake a little while I had my tools in the car.

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No pictures today, as I've foolishly left my phone in my new flat that I haven't quite moved into yet.
Just fixed the right window, it needed some tweaking on what I previously called the "reference rail". And holy crap does that motor get hot if you keep using it (especially when it gets a bit stuck)!
All put back together much better than usual this time, so hopefully I don't need to take it apart again... perhaps ever!
I've improved those black triangle panels on the inside of the mirror, where I still had holes for the manual adjustment. I've put some of that high-density foam in the door hole, followed by some packing material, and on the panel itself I have attached black packing sponge to look neat. I was getting some significant wind noise from those holes (and a bit of unwanted ventilation), so I imagine it's fixed now.
Just noticed that there is a relay in the window switch. I do like that satisfying click they make.
 
Thought I could hear my exhaust blowing. It split last night at the back box.

Can't find my jack for some reason. Did some little punk run off with it?
Moving on...
The exhaust on the donor was less elegant than I had thought.

It's just a pipe...
Removing my old one was, like before, a pain. I had to use that dremel again to grind off the bolts. Which took hours.

I went for the donor's one. I do also have the donors original too. In addition to the cable ties used before, I made a slight bracket thing, as I didn't cut the bumper.

Overall result, not bad. Might cut the bumper just like the donor had it. Sounds surprisingly subtle.


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It soon didn't sound surprisingly subtle when it constantly rubbed and bashed against the suspension.
I figured out the direction it needed "persuading" in and crafted this ghetto bracket around the fuel tank bracket.
You can see the shiny metal from the rubbing just below the bolt holding the mid and rear sections together.

Seems fine so far. We'll see once I drive somewhere.
If I do cut the bumper, it won't have this problem. Or at least not as much.

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I've begun getting the key switch in for the locking units. While it wasn't so important for the standard central locking, it is a bit more so for the remote locking.
Initially I wanted something that would light up so I don't accidentally leave it on. Then I saw some pretty cool novelty ones.



Yes, the cutting is pretty bad. But it could be worse. It'll do I suppose.





I've aborted wiring it up today as I'm running out of time, and the chance of rain is too high.
All I need now is a sunny day off, and I'll get that remote locking in.

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I've begun adding the remote locking.


Unfortunately I've had a problem.
1: The key switch does nothing. Now, the doors won't lock if they're opened, bit will when closed.
2: The remote key did unlock, but not lock. At the start it did only the opposite.
However, I wondered if the receiver needed resetting, and found instructions to do so. The lights are supposed to flash but they didn't, and now neither of the remote keys work at all.

One thing that does work is the fading interior lights. However not with the remote key.
Help, anyone?

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I think I'm going to give up on the remote locking, and perhaps get a separate unofficial unit some day.
Until then have some pictures.


I have come across a fuelling problem (if my guessing is right). The cause of this is a year or two of crap going into the fuel tank when I fill up. The fuel filler neck has rusted away so all of the muck gathers there (you can see the wheel if you look through the filler cap).
I lose power as if the engine is being starved of fuel, for about 5 seconds or so (often stopping the engine), and it happens if I brake quite sharply.
I'm going to replace the fuel filter, and the fuel pump too (the fuel gauge seems to have been sticking recently too, which if I am correct is part of the pump).
Since I have that turbo kit sat in the shed gathering cobwebs, I might upgrade the fuel pump so I can use it some day.
Just bought new wiper blades (front) as mine are falling to pieces. Also the replacement LED strip for the footwell light on the right (as I broke it). Got two again as it was cheap to do so, might put it on the inside of the bonnet, or in the glovebox, or something. Also got two smaller ones, I'll put them in the bottom of the rear seat pockets when I do all that.
And a new pair of 42-LED bulbs for the air controls box.


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with the terrano wiper switch does all the functions work? as it would be nice to had different speeds instead of the 1
thanks
Yeah, absolutely. It does everything the K11 one does, plus intermittent rear wipe, and 4 speeds of intermittent front wipe.
In addition it wipes the rear when the rear wash is activated at the same time.
Well worth getting, I don't know why more people haven't done it.
Won't fit a pre-facelift though.
 
Yeah, absolutely. It does everything the K11 one does, plus intermittent rear wipe, and 4 speeds of intermittent front wipe.
In addition it wipes the rear when the rear wash is activated at the same time.
Well worth getting, I don't know why more people haven't done it.
Won't fit a pre-facelift though.
sweet i got a 99 first face lift so hope it works with it :)
now just get around and get one lol
 
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