running problems

I've recently replaced the cylinder head gasket on the 1.0l micra about 3 months ago. however now I'm having problems. It starts fine etc but when its running it judders sometimes and it seems to stall while your driving although it keeps going. I seem to notice this most when accelerating, going round corners, inclines. It does it more when cold and when 1st started.
I know it is very full of oil (toofull) as i overfilled it accidently after doing the head gasket.
I'm pondering replacing the fuel pump as It's been on the car since before i got it. The inlet manifold gaskets are new so thats ok, I never removed the exhaust. The braided earth wire is pumpt. I don't know if that would make things that bad.

So any ideas please so I can go in armed when i look at it at the weekend. I will be draining some of the oil.
check that all of teh vacuum hoses have stayed on properly and aremt leaking since you re assembled it

is the vacuum advanced timing steady at around 12 degrees BTDC on idle?


Ex. Club Member
check that all of teh vacuum hoses have stayed on properly and aremt leaking since you re assembled it

is the vacuum advanced timing steady at around 12 degrees BTDC on idle?

Is it not 5 degrees on them?or is just the ma10?
It was steadyish when I first done it. And then redone it with help around a week later and it was steady then. don't know about now though. I will check the hoses again. But I'm thinking this earth that goes from the manifold to the rad mounting area may be it. It's halfed and I tied it together best I could but I haven't checked since. Any other ideas that I should check please?


Ex. Club Member
The earth from the exhaust mani...ive never had one attached on any of my 4 K10s so cant see it being that...

It sounds fuel or electrically related...possible dizzy cap or rotor arm?

Possibly the timing is out slightly?
MA10 is 2 deg ATDC with vac disconnected from ditributer and other end plugged (this is the ffirst reference when setting up <incase teh distributer is playing games on vac>......with the vac connected its 12 deg BTDC.

I havent figured out why the earth braid strap is there on the K10 I had problems an age ago and suspected the braid coz it broke at teh same time that I developed p;roblems....but I put a megga strap accross inits place to test but it did not fix the problem.......
Well I've reconnected the earth a little9 more than not at all) and it doesn't judder/stall/jerk as much. i notice it doesnt do it at all when I rev low-hard while i do it from the engine bat i.e parked up. The air filter and box are very oily with a slight pool of oil in the box. The oil is clean and golden. There is sponge I have not noticed before in the air box where the oil breather pipe goes. This was soaked with oil and has oil residue on the outside of the airbox where it attaches. Did I mention I filled it with way to much oil. I have not drained it yet.
Well its fixed Hurrah!

the actual problem seemed to be a build up of deposits on the dizzy cap electrodes. I'd previously noticed this before and brushed it off this time on close inspection it had deposits and deep grooves in them. New diz new rotor arm and it starts easyer bus is rough as a bag of spanners. Further more it was dark and with the dizzy cap and arm ireplaced and electricity actually passing through it, I could now see arcs of electricity flowing across the plug leads! really nice effect. Replaced them and it's working excellent.
I think its likely the original stuff that has been on the car from the start the leads all have numbers, arrows and markings pointing to the cylinders they are on and the end to connect and where practically hard as plastic with age while the rotor arm looked like a razor blade.

Just goes to show how much the electrics can affect the car even though it appears to be working.

I'll be redoing the timing again. before i do does anyone have a red arrow and a white arrow on their belt cover timing marks?