Just fold them, as long as the are left in it doesn't matter what position they are in
Roll cage
- Thread starter h701micra
- Start date
Just fold them, as long as the are left in it doesn't matter what position they are in
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
Iirc its £30 for 6 metres... and I believe a 6 point is approx 8 metres... door bars are 2 metres a set and the rear x with harness is another 4metres....
If you flick back through this thread I've got it all down
works out at about 16 meters so go for 18 metres if its £30 for 6 meters
18 meters = £90
fitting = £150?
around £250 not bad
how much notice you need t o get the materials?
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h701micra
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The more notice I have the betterworks out at about 16 meters so go for 18 metres if its £30 for 6 meters
18 meters = £90
fitting = £150?
around £250 not bad
though if there's a delay I'll keep you posted.Just had a quick look.
With VAT & Delivery its £94.47
That's a good question. It depends what material you choose too
if you go for a standard mild steel tube its approx 3.6kg a metre so a 6point (8 metre) is around 29kg
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h701micra
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If you remove the interior and all that etc etc it shouldn't make much difference
My interior weighed around 20kg.. but that's alllll of it... dash has to go back in and some seats. In the end I'll gain 15-20kg somewhere around there
Also its a 30kg distributed evenly not a dead weight in one corner. Should hopefully pull that CoG to the rear too
My interior weighed around 20kg.. but that's alllll of it... dash has to go back in and some seats. In the end I'll gain 15-20kg somewhere around there
Also its a 30kg distributed evenly
not a dead weight in one corner. Should hopefully pull that CoG to the rear too
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h701micra
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Of course a pair of bucket seats and harnesses would also suit
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h701micra
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h701micra
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I built my car backwards (as you do) and I'm not pushing you here... but seriously get the roll cage in first and build the car round it. I had to move my seat rails to accommodate the cage and I'm a thorough welder so it was a pain to cut out and move again :/
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h701micra
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MA10?... ask @belly93 my MA10 is a very capable engine
Belly93
to turbo or new lump :/ hmmm
i could do but ideally i wouldnt mind stripping and replacing shells and seals aswell as get the head skimmed to raise the comp aswell as have it ported,Or just bike carb mine
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h701micra
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Doooo itttt
Something I've been thinking about as well. What would be better to have, a bolt in cage or welded in cage? I seem more strength from the welded one but if you need it out at all then you got to cut it out? But a welded one looks nice and smooth without a tonne of bolts poking out. Any ideas what would be best?
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
Only bolt in ones I've seen are show cages, welded is always better for safety.
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h701micra
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I've seen show cages steel are made of 4" x 1mm steel tubing... pathetic and stupid they're a hazard. Welded in proper cages are always the way forward
However so long as your 6 point is welded and the harness bar welded then the rest can be bolt in. My door X bars may be bolt in as its also a daily. Correctly done a bolt in is effective but does take more time
Cheers for the info. Will have to give you a call nearer the time the car is more ready for the cage. Just need money and upgrade a couple of things like coilovers and maybe seats so when the cage goes in we can work out how they will go in
That's fair enough
Is that something you could help out with as well??
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h701micra
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Certainly is
Hey Andy its been awhile but its finally time for me to think about that cage. I've notice I get a bit of chassis twist maybe from how stiff the coilovers are (interior light keeps turning on around corner etc) and I think its time the chassis could do with some stiffening. What do you say?
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h701micra
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Game on?
I know it's roughly a 4 hour trip to yours, so I need to plan this. I also need to plan money. Is this something you think you could finish over a weekend? Also keep it in mind I have no idea what material is required or where to get it lol.
Something along these lines. Let me know if I've done something wrong or it needs extra
I didn't want the x-bar at the door as this will be a daily car, and I thought it would be easier if the cage went around the dash, rather than through it. But you have more experience with this stuff, so I'd let you tell me whats best
Also you got any pictures of the cages you've already done?
**edit**
I do need to find out from my insurances what a cage will change it to
I didn't want the x-bar at the door as this will be a daily car, and I thought it would be easier if the cage went around the dash, rather than through it. But you have more experience with this stuff, so I'd let you tell me whats best
Also you got any pictures of the cages you've already done?
**edit**
I do need to find out from my insurances what a cage will change it to
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h701micra
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I'll look into it for you
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h701micra
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You need to send a weld sample to be tested for yield strength.
Materials and angles etc must conform to msa 2014 regs unless its previously been certified
Once you've welded it in it'll have to ve scrutineered along with your pass certificate for your weld test
SuperUno
Buy & Sell Member
Do you need it to be FIA spec? Unless you plan to build a Grp N/A car for overseas events, the cage 'just' needs to be made to the specs in the MSA Blue book and as per their diagrams. The test weld bits and bits of paper are for some cage companies. No need for a certificate to get a MSA Log book. Our cage was bespoke made to our spec, by a local (at the time) guy who did it to MSA spec and a good quality, no certificates etc... and no issues getting a log book.
Our bespoke weld in cage fully fitted (with no paint) was less than buying the Custom Cages kit.....
Our bespoke weld in cage fully fitted (with no paint) was less than buying the Custom Cages kit.....
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h701micra
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Some scrutineers ask for a certificate of conformity form a yield test.
If yours was made by a reputable builder you wont need one...
