Road rally Micra !

R

Rowlly70

Hey up guys how's it going. newbie here

I have recently purchased a T reg 1.3 inspiration Micra with the Intensions of turning it into a road rally/auto test car.

I am in need of some help off you guys as to what specs the car needs to be to.

I believe the car needs to have MOT and tax. But what sort of modifications can you get away with on road rallies ?

Roll cage- does it need to be approved by anyone or is any old thing ok ?

Bucket seats and harnesses- again do they need to be approved and in date ?

What can you do to the interior ? Do you have to have carpet and all the plastic trim or not ?


I have loads of questions but I will add them later on in this thread. If you guys could give me a insight into what I should be aiming for that would be great. Last thing I want to do is chuck a load of money at the car when it is not permitted


Many thanks

Andrew
 
https://www.msauk.org/assets/281324specificregulationsforrallyingr.pdf

Outside has to remain as standard, no weird paint jobs, no sponsors, no stupid loud exhausts, no arches or spoiler etc. Can fit spotlights (max 4 forward facing lights and all must do dip and full beam) sump guard, mud guards etc. Wheels are free but can't have 'poke' and mad camberz. Tyres must be road legal.

Inside as standard as possible. Yes carpet, trim head lining rear seats must be in. Can be cut to fit cage in tho which you don't have to have!!! Ballsey do go without one but as far as I'm aware since you don't have to have one if you do it doesn't have to be msa approved?! Also seats and harness can be out of date. Can fit trips, nav lights etc I'd also advise a hydraulic handbrake too, but again standard must also be kept.

Yes taxed, mot'd and insured. Which your normal road policy won't cover you for. Can buy this with your entry from organisers tho.
 
Thanks for that.

So every single bit of trim has to be left in ? So even the radio and gear gaitor have to be left ? Has anybody got pictures of there interior that is road rally legal ? I was going to pull part of the centre console out and make a switch board for my map light, fogs, ignition on off etc etc, is this not aloud ?

So do you have to have normal road insurance and competition ? Or does the competition insurance cover you


Thanks
 
Technically yes I think, but my old car had exactly what your describing. I had a blank instead of the radio which had the aforementioned switches on (also had removed the door speakers just put the grills back in), and I had removed the glovebox to house a trip meter and a little hook to store the poti and it got through scrutineering every time.

With regards to insurance, companies like flux/comp car/Reis will do some that covers road and comp usage. Or just get normal road car insurance (with mods declared obvs :/) so you can drive there and then buy event coverage on the night from the organisers.

Pic off google not mine:

10072008045.jpg
 
Thanks again, so they are pretty lenient with the interior aslong asit isn't fully stripped and stupid etc.

Also do you have a picture of the boot/rear seats

Is it compulsory to have normal road insurance ? Or could I take the car on a trailor to the event and then buy competition insurance as being a 19 year old my insurance on a modded vehicle is going to insane
 
Hi, I am in the same boat as you are, as I am preparing my Micra for road rallies but I also use it as am everyday toy.
Apart from the regs for road rallies, have a read on Jordan27 blog. Lots of useful information.

You can fit as said buckets,harnesses, cage (highly recommended).
In theory the interior (door cards, carpets, rear seat plastic bits) must be retained. However, you will find that in many cases the rear seats are just filled with foam, the carpets are skinned from insulation parts and door cards are hiding cut doors with removed door bars.
I would suggest to go to a rally and have a look before to some cars. You will see from bog standard cars to almost full grA or gr4.

You have more than enough space to make a panel with switches and from what I see you will save only grams by removing the centre console bits.

Since you have the inspiration model, change the rear stabiliser with the white line. You will see a great improvement. Find and fit a gearbox from a coilpack 1.0 lt (with all the further bits that you will need...have a search). Buy a roll cage tube cut it in half and weld it on the front cross member, alternative ly buy the strengthening kit from Matt.

Matt Humphry is a nissan dealer, has almost everything and he is a really really nice guy with great advice.

The Micra can be a cheap toy but can get quite expensive if you want a properly sorted car..

I stop here lol
 
E-marked tyres is a Welsh only thing and then only if you do their championship...

That 106 interia shot, the hyd hand brake is illegal, it must only be 'piggy-backed' off the OEM hand brake.

Have a look at our rally car, which is road rally (and stage) spec - www.mattendean.co.uk

For rally parts look here - http://www.humphrisoxford.co.uk/rally/

Find events here - https://www.msauk.org/Events/Find-Events

Anymore questions just ask, I am on the MSA Rallies Commitee (and others) so know most things about the sport.
 
@SuperUno I know it is a Welsh thing (at the moment) but if touch wood something happens with gravel or full tarmac tyres that involves a third party.. The Pandora box will open don't you think..
 
SuperUno said:
E-marked tyres is a Welsh only thing and then only if you do their championship...

That 106 interia shot, the hyd hand brake is illegal, it must only be 'piggy-backed' off the OEM hand brake.

Have a look at our rally car, which is road rally (and stage) spec - www.mattendean.co.uk

For rally parts look here - http://www.humphrisoxford.co.uk/rally/

Find events here - https://www.msauk.org/Events/Find-Events

Anymore questions just ask, I am on the MSA Rallies Commitee (and others) so know most things about the sport.
Click to expand...


Thanks for that I was hoping for a reply from you, you seem pretty clued up.

Can you answer my insurance question please. Is normal road insurance compulsory to have normal road insurance or does the competition insurance cover me?
 
You need 3rd party cover for the event, 99% of normal policies don't cover road rallies. So you have two choices either a) buy the 'event' insurance about £15/20 per event (without loading for speeding etc...) or b) buy your insurance with a specialist like RIES, Auden, Jelf who can provide normal road cover ans then extend this to include road rallies. If you plan to do a few events then this usually makes more sense and they are normally ok with mods as well.
 
Hey up guys thanks the answers so far.

Are the stock steel wheels for the micra strong enough for road rally or are alloys much better ? If I where to by some alloys which would your for ?

Also do you guys prefer to run 13 or 14 inch wheels ?
 
Forgot to add a picture of the beast.
It is the sunroof model which isn't ideal I know but I am going to remove it and cover it up. Sills are rusty so making my own sill asap and getting that welded in. Apart from the sills rust wise it's pretty good. There where a few areas that had surface rust underneath but I sorted that with a hammer, wire brush and some red oxide.. Lots of work but I think worth it.

 
Took the sump guard off today to find that the sump itself is leaking, easy enough to fix ?

Also I would like to move the position of the bucket seats, they are bottom mounted can somebody please show me how they have done it ?

Also when shutting off I am getting a knock, any ideas ?

Thanks
 
Never done the sump, but IIRC you need to remove the exhuast downpipe to do this, and @pollyp has experience of the need for a good seal on the sump / engine gasket.

Knocking sounds like the front engine mount, they are the first to go.
 
When I recently found my welded sump turbo oil return fitting had a pinhole leak, I tried sealing with Metal Chem epoxy which held for few weeks but eventually began leaking again.

For the sump/block gasket seal, I always check the face is all flat, old sealant scrapped off, clean n degreased, apply solid bead of sealant all along sump face within the bolt holes, I also tend to smear the thick bead all across the face to make sure there's no gaps. Yes need to remove down pipe.

If it knocks when shut off or maybe very low idle but not when acc/decelerating, could be loose clutch plate springs rattling about?
 
Thanks Pollyp I am getting it in pit this week, new sump on order, do they have a gasket if so does it need replacing ?

I think I have an engine mount down to be honest I will check them all over at the same time. Thanks a lot guys for the quick replies
 
Rowlly70 said:
Thanks Pollyp I am getting it in pit this week, new sump on order, do they have a gasket if so does it need replacing ?

I think I have an engine mount down to be honest I will check them all over at the same time. Thanks a lot guys for the quick replies
Click to expand...

PU sealant applied inbetween sump/block at the front/rear and sump/rubber half-moons/block at the sides
 

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