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Richardwbb's 1993 Super S LHD sleeper.

I do have a topic from the beginning with the engine side motormount modification in Dutch but here goes after setting my brakes, wheels, shocks and alignment straight.

Here is the engine. I bought a 350 coins Super S which was steep considering the defects but it was the only Super S at that time and I had some help from a welder friend and another friend with knowledge about this engine swap which is about the most simple as it can get for you.

It is a Ga16DE from a Nissan 100Nx and that engine was also driven beyond recognition. It was 150 coins and in the end was even profitable and this engine is rated 110 horsepower.

The modifications
This is a long list!

a. custom air intake
b. k12 steelies
c. cardboard radiator

The custom air intake was designed by my knowledgable friend for diameter and length. Length of the intake should correspond with the engine. The k12 steelies I bought from a market site are straight and balanced by me. My Micra also has bleeded it's brakes, those brakes are from the donor car and it has new shock absorbers and it has been aligned. I decided to use the donors car radiator but it is just too big. So I put cardboard in there which gave a notable mileage difference.

And below is a preview where my car is still wet. It has six different colours of red an will be polished!
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My ordered Ali mass airflow came in.

I could have installed it straight away but I await my to-do list and also choose a cold start circumstance with a full warm up and proper weather circumstances to WOT it and then I hope to learn an Ali Express MAF is sweet, just not the cheapest but the most likeley.
And Datascan can measure with tyre size correcting, your 0 - 100 kilometers time an I missed that I could have measured 0 - 60 miles per hour time in one go.

Yeah Ithisham. I'm still not convinced what I want with my car because I want to make it fuel efficient first. For the AliExpress MAF I gotten at first it ran about 5 mpg better but for a real short time. Not even enough to make up for the cost. Then my fuel meter started falling so hard it got in the range where the engine has lost it's lambda, about 10 mpg worse (or 5 mpg compared with the worn stock airflow). I'm investigating how to get this straight for a low price.

That is because I want a Speeduino. https://speeduino.com/home/ or another diy solution, but I think it is going to be this one.

My crankshaft seal went and it leaked this bad, like 3 to 4 drips a second. By flexing the outer ring of the crank pulley I was able to get the pulley off without lowering the engine. This was like 1 millimeter of play so I was in luck. The old seal came off with the pulley so it had become 1 size larger or so.

Installing a new crankshaft seal is easy. A real one star beginner job on the advanced repairs. You only will need an air tool to loosen the pulley bolt and just have the correct thickness steel which could be anything to wiggle the pulley off. It will come off easy enough. Then the bolt has to be fastened 142 - 152 newtonmeter but I just air tooled it back because I wouldn't know how to fixate the crank.

My Micra is ready for another round daily driving tasks, 140 miles this day to start with.
I've put the Speeduino idea on the back burner. It's a good project but it fails to recognize mass airflow sensors. I can imagine it isn't very easy to support that because no-one tells you what voltage means what load you have there. I also couldn't figure it out. MAF sensors are the best measurement for airflow (while it is in good shape) and the Speeduino calculates VE (Volumetric Efficiency) and while I still can believe it will work okay or better then that, I have other reasons.

A set back is that the wideband o2 sensor needed for DIY tuning will always be a 5 wire. I figured by it's scheme 3 wire would also work but of course I can't be sure. Another reason is that the fuel efficiency to be gained becomes quite caculable if you understand lambda (λ) and it became hard to justify the investment. Final reason besides marginal HP gains to be expected (in my case) is that with a 5 wire wideband there is no easy way to revert to standard ecu. I like Speeduino but you can't use it without sacrificing backward compatibillity.

I had to replace a crank crankshaft oil seal ($2, no picture) and a cv-joint ($18 :ROFLMAO:). There was a lot of violence necessary to hammer the old cv-joint off it's axle and if you never did it, you are in for a treat. I acutally broke my hammer on it.

I replaced my rear engine mount ($23 :LOL:). It is better now but the Ga16DE is still wobbling. This might be so because the donor engine mount (engine side) is like twice in size.

And today I attempted to fix my leaking oil pan. With the engine swap I used a torque wrench and a load of sealant but it turned out that one bolt was just too long to actually do something and two others barely did something but those fitted at the oil pump. It was also leaking at those bolts. It turned out my oilpan was damaged and bent. And the first sealant job was plenty and that takes some time to scrape off, no fun there.

Tomorrow I attempt to replace my waterpump. It leaks bad. It seems to be the seal of its little axle. I'm actually quite sure since I pulled my crank pulley today and it was seeping out this bad for quite a while, I actually filled the radiator with water.
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5wire wideband, e.g. Innovate has an analogue output that simulates a 3-wire normal narrowband high/low signal, so you can install a wideband and ditch the factory O2-sensor, and still get all the benefits. Nice project
Thank you Dala for pointing that out to me. Such recommendations I just won't forget.

I replaced my water pump. I used quite some RTV not willing to do it again but it surely is inside there so I let it harden the full 24 hours and asume it will be good. I figured there is no filter on the coolant system.

This water pump just leaked trough a little hole meant for leakage. Only thing that could be responsible is the sealing ring on it's little axis.

After making sure my tools would be able to acces every bolt, I removed the old water pump.

The new Blue Print water pump. Blue Print is something to consider in it's price range and being exact oem match. It is a Bilstein spin-off so it is really something to look at for the usual 3 - 5 coins extra.

I've been driving around, no coolant loss or oil loss found but for the oil loss that might come back.

And for my other car I removed it's fuselage, a friend pressed the wheel bearing so I have two road safe cars tomorrow. That is the driver isn't aware of safety issues ;)
I forgot, for people that are about to use a packing scraper to get it very nice (two hours of tedious scraping tiny tiny thingies) Be sure to get a cupper based rotary drill. Won't hurt a steel pan, this because cuppe is a lot softer then steel so no damage there or you really tried to but that pan. Scraping your bottom end is easy with a 5 coins scraper, pan itself. It can be that hard, looking up for best price for a new one might tip you to just get a new one. Pro tip is the cupper rotating brush. Not that crap home improvent stuff for a regular drilling tool that' cant hammer concrete (SDS) but 5 coins pack comes with a cupper, steel and brass brush you should be fine. I did never try it brass is also softer then steel. Just don't run it 15k rpm and you will be fine.
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Good news and bad news, then the bad news first.

Stud broke off and I didn't even try to loosen it.

Good news, so offered Micra for MOT.I actually wanted to be sure on the environmental regulation, but now that the manifold was no longer properly secured, immediately went for MOT. MOT guy told me, let me put in a license plate light, then it is approved.
Stud problem still there. Now I learned that welding cast iron airtite is not easy doable. For the broken stud removal I need to choose for welding a nut on or drill it out. And there are six more studs where I only can hope they don't break. The engine runs as rich as it can be and with my current mileage it has become quite costly, about 9 gallons a month lost.

Here is a picture with some mighty fine wheel caps, they where free to me otherwise it would still have no wheelcaps. And you can tell on the picture someone did a marvellous job getting the red colour right, not.
If someone here had told me hammer part that will bend not the cv-joint itself, (angled part) this would have saved an hour or more time.

Left cv-joint presumably original and perhaps fubar because really 80% also vibrate away. The hint in difference, not measured but was good, but the hint is conical - conical tone. Solution was replace both cv-joint still price attractively low

Ringing and hammering by me and with help asking ringlet beating by mechanic with 20 years of experience. No, they will indeed not go back into it. Where the pieces have gone, I hope jumped out but this was not visible. Cover closed and ready.

This ring fit fine and was a 1 hour CV joint (proper) mounted action and that included getting the air tool compressor and everything tiedied up.

Replaced wiper rod for used with knowledge that it was good. Don't want to work properly yet :(

Also some tectylation

No more pain and problem
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