Removing the Gearbox from a K10

Was board so I thought I would post the step by step guide.

Tools needed

10mm spanner
12mm spanner
14mm spanner
17mm spanner
side cutters
Hammer
3/8 Rachet medium and long extention bars
10mm, 12, 14mm sockets in 3/8
21mm wheel brace
Large flat screwdriver
A can of WD40
Trolley Jack (long or short metal bar) (dependant on being oon the ramp or the floor)


Step 1 UNDER THE BONNET

disconnect the negative terminal of the battary
take a long extention bar and undo the 10mm bolt on the speedo drive
remove bolt and pull the drive upwards and locate out of the way (behind the rack)
disconnect the clutch cable by slackening the 10mm nut and unwinding the drive nut
unclip the cable and pull out of gearbox mounting
undo the 2 x 14mm bolts holding the starter and earth cable
move the connected starter to the inner wing
undo 2 x 12mm bolts at the top of the bell housing
disconnect the reverse lamp switch

Step 2 RAISE THE CAR ON RAMP OR SECURE ON HIGH AXLE STANDS

remove wheel trims and wheels
remove bottom ball joint split pins (using WD40 and side cutters)
undo bottom arm nuts (WD40 winding them backwards and forwards)
Lock the steering over one way and smack the ball joint with a big hammer
Smack again if its tight till it jumps
Remove ball joint from hub
Lock steering to the oppasite side and repeat
drain gearbox oil (3/8 plug MA10 or remove the reverse switch MA12)
(MA12 reverse switch will break unless you are careful)
refit drain plug or switch
remove under shields from the N/S inner wing and N/S engine tray (use WD40 as the bolts will break
take the trolly Jack and bar and place on the flat part of the sump by the front pipe
jack it up to take the weight of the mounts
Take the large screw driver and lever out the drive shafts (by moving the steering from full lock to full lock the shafts can be pulled out of the way but remember to protect the ends.

Roll a short piece of card board (length and width of your middle finger) and place into the driveshaft hole inside the diff to prevent the shims from moving



Step 3 THE FUN BIT

remove the 3 x 14mm bolts from the front engine mount
remove the long 14mm bolt and nut from the mount to the body
remove the mount
disconnect the gearchange linkage 10mm nut and remove the bolt
disconnect the linkage from the box
using a long extention bar, Rachet and 14mm socket undo the 2 x long 14mm bolts located on the rear engine mount (look to the oil filter and look left)
DONT PULL THEM OUT JUST UNDO THEM
Remove the short 14mm bolt above that
Undo the 12mm bolt on the rear mounting DONT PULL IT OUT
remove the 2 x 12 side cover plate bolts (by the front pipe)
remove the 12mm front bellhousing bolt

Take hold of the gearbox and with help lift it to break the seal and lever it off the dowels with the screwdriver, BECARFUL AS UNLESS YOU ARE READY THE BOX WILL COME OUT, SLOWLY LOWER ENSURING THAT NOTHING SNAGS


Gearbox out!

4 speed can be swaped with a 5 speed or the clutch can be changed

to refit just do the reverse instead of draining the oil ensure you fill via the speedo head!

To refit the drive shafts (just put them back in place (card removed from the diff) ensuring the circlips are central rotate a couple of times to ensure they are lined up and are not catching the seals, pull back on the hub and then push the hub forward by the brake caliper popping the shaft back in (it may take a couple of trys) to ensure the shaft is back in (hold the inner joint and you will feel slight movement as you move it backwards) The clip has locked into place

Not wanting to tell anyone how to suck eggs just thought it might be helpful
 
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