Removal of number plate sticky pads

What's the easiest or best way to remove these from the paintwork.
They are very long and it's caused slight rust on my paint work.
I'm going to show it tomorrow.
Would like to know how to get them off easy without causing more damage to the paint.
For now I've left them in place as I thought it would be a good idea to ask first.


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WD40 softens them up enough to 'roll' the adhesive off of the paint work, with a finger, then clean and wax polish the area.
This is what I'm working with and you might be able to notice water was trapped between this horrible tape and plate.
The 3m tape is hard to remove and I'm struggling to get it to move as it's cold today maybe when the sun gets round it will soften up abit better and roll off.
Edit :- update the foam is all now removed just about but alot of glue remains.
Wd40 works but not great.
I'm also using a wheel cleaner as this helps to lift tar.
Really what's best tho is to apply some heat it's really windy and cold tho today so I'm going to keep going back and removing bits then wash off I think the wheel cleaner is a good way cause its safe for the paintwork.
The glue is the worst thing tho bottom one came off clean but the top is very long strip and the glue is visible after removal it's always a chew on removing this from any item.

I don't think laying the adhesive pads horizontally is a great idea and I certainly won't be repeating that mistake.
Not why but it's always windy and freezing when I decide to work on the car
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In detailing they use a rubber wheel on a drill.
What worked best for me my glove that has a rubber grip worked a charm and didn't hurt my fingers.
I gave it a clean off to remove the unwanted wd40 then a polish up by hand so to avoid the bubbles.
Then after that a quick wash n wax to seal the good paint that's left.
I really want to sand this back and paint but will need some KYO. For the job to be done properly.
I just noticed something the number plate light has a led in didn't see that before.
Wonder if that's something I should remove since it's not original and probably a crap one dunno I'd have to try it in dark to see first.
I'm not putting the plate back on cause it needs to dry and as for the adhesive pads they ain't going on till the bubbles are removed.

So yes glove with grippy rubber is a great method it takes time but does work well I think I got 99.9% removed when taking the photo. (For the remaining glue residue)

And oh yeah that polish I'm use is awesome it took all the build up of muck or whatever it was straight off in seconds even me standing for an hour washing it didn't do anything at all to that area.
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I decided to just use what I have for now and patch the area till I get right colour.
Looks like I went too close to the area and missed a bit.
For the first try with spray can on body work I don't think it's that bad please ignore the colour as its going to be under the number plate anyhow and also its just a temp patch.
Should keep the rust away for a bit.
It's not very flat after a few coats but not visible anyways and I will sand it back and do proper job when I buy the correct paint code later in the right temps.
Yeah it could have been alot worse if I'd left it another year I thinks.
The aim was a small area patch but one side was really bubbled up.
That paint is the wheel paint and etch primer.
And since it will only get sanded back alot more next time why not just use it and see how the paint might lay.
Will take a few hours to get a decent result that's not sticking out saying you used the wrong type of paint.
I'd like to do the arches at rear sometime and possible behind the rear lights.
Keep in mind I'm only using this as my first step base.
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Going to try one of these for the sanding as this will help to keep the area small as possible rather than make it over sizes.
Been meaning to get one like this for a while with hook and loop.
They should be useful for this type of work and hopefully also handy for other work such as the headlight polishing.