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Porks bike carbs and boost project

OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
I've also been given this TB that fits, as I'm new to this side of things , anyone hazard a guess at what this bit does?





At a guess, I'd imagine it's somthing to do with idle control maybe?

If no one knows il get on the starlet forum later
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Take it this is more idle stuff?



The diagonal slots


Only ask coz jus noticed it doesn't match the plenum face here.....



Fits perfect everywhere else, so could I jus block this up? (Supplier yet to answer)
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Yup. That looks like the right mani for that tb, oh well, il make it work, not needing any off the idle stuff so il jus block it all up :)
 
I'd clean out the holes/channels and fill them with jb weld then sand it flush or getthe person who did the manifold to tig them up.
 

frank

Club Member
you might need to leave 1 hole for the idle adjusting screw neil ?
the k11 ecu uses spark timing advance to control the idle if the i/c/v is not working or removed, and once i,m off the drive (on a cold morning) mine will idle np all day
you might be able to program the megasquirt for extra spark advance during coldstart ?
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
There's a little grub on the cable guide bit, would that be ok to set the idle? (Opening the butterfly a smidge) like on my carbs?
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Jus bought a trigger wheel, ring gear type, gunna recess the pulley and weld wheel into that.....where does the missing tooth part go in relation to the pulley
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member


This was a pic I sent earlier to trigger wheels to help choose wheel, beings I have no idea where tdc is right now , does the spot on the pulley tell m anything
 

Noddie

Club Member
Trigger position is normally fine tuned in the software I think. But will need to at least a certain distance from TDC to allow ecu time to 'count down' to spark event. Megasquirt should specify but maybe max advance - 30degrees?
So basically what frank said :D
 
I know when using the ford edis for the crank input its 90 degrees BTDC, if your using the on board ignition drivers then it must be in the manual somewhere?


where does the missing tooth part go in relation to the pulley
It doesn't matter as long as the VR sensor is the correct angle away from the missing tooth at TDC.

Which makes installation easier as you find the simplest place to mount the VR sensor then rotate the trigger wheel to match before fixing it in place
 
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frank

Club Member
This was a pic I sent earlier to trigger wheels to help choose wheel, beings I have no idea where tdc is right now , does the spot on the pulley tell m anything
all 4 pistons will be half way up the bore @ 90 btdc neil :)
and my spark runs 52 deg btdc max iirc
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Found the right TB, also found an pneumatic actuator and got my trigger wheel thru



Difference between the 2 , correct one on bottom , also came with the tps




Plan with trigger wheel is to cut recess into the pulley and weld it on, not a lot off room to just bolt on the wheel.

And the actuator will operate the old TB. (Havnt decided how yet) which will replace my homemade (leaky) valve
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
Found the right TB, also found an pneumatic actuator and got my trigger wheel thru



Difference between the 2 , correct one on bottom , also came with the tps




Plan with trigger wheel is to cut recess into the pulley and weld it on, not a lot off room to just bolt on the wheel.

And the actuator will operate the old TB. (Havnt decided how yet) which will replace my homemade (leaky) valve
Still don't wanna go down the reed valve route eh? ;)
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Dam reed valve!!
:D
I've got the throttle body sitting here, right size to match the rest of the pipe which is handy, actuator was free, all that's needs is a 4 way solenoid valve.
Had a quick mess about earlier........

...... Like this lol



This actuator only needs a couple of psi to move it, jus use the relay from the clutch to operate this too, air tight throttle body, better than my homemade thing
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
Would a 5/2 valve not do the job?
Edit 4/2 valve, your one is a 5/2 valve haha
 
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OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Or one of those. ;)

My thoughts are, there's gunna be constant pressure , even at idle , so there air to operate it
 
damn it, nevermind :(

things seem to be getting more complicated now with the use of pneumatics although not unachievable. Personally I think franks idea would be the best solution (personal opinion) with the drive by wire TB as megasquirt can control it simply
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
Oooo forgot about that drive by wire TB idea, dam, oh well, not to important right now, jus messing about with things till I get the ecu lol
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
If you let off above sc switch off rpms and allow to drop below switch off rpms then reapply throttle, the boost from the sc will escape trough the turbo and no boost will be generated to power the actuator. I'd suggest using a 3/2 valve and powering only one side of the actuator and using the throttle return spring on the throttle body to close it, effectively making it a single acting actuator
 
OP
OP
pork

pork

Club Member
If I find another actuator going free, il try it, like I said, jus messing about :)
Get bored with nothing to do, wanna get the injection conversion going......no more monies till end of the month tho :(
 
If I find another actuator going free, il try it, like I said, jus messing about :)
Get bored with nothing to do, wanna get the injection conversion going......no more monies till end of the month tho :(
I feel your pain my ecu has been in customs twice as long as it took to get here so far
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=181289999972
And a 6v one of these bad boys. Have this feed 6v to the signal and positive, earth the earth on the servo and it'll move to its furthest reach. Have the feed to the signal wire switched by the shift light with a transistor and you can hook it up to the throttle body with the spring removed and job done :)
Edit: turns out rc PWM is different to duty PWM, so it won't work :(
Edit2: What about using a wiper motor and limit switches? On power on to 5 pin relay the wiper motor turns until it hits a micro switch which breaks the circuit, then on power off it returns until it hots another micro switch whoch agai breaks the circuit (what are called 'hard limits')
Edit3: See how much harder this all is than a reed valve?
 
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