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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Not my work but makes sense... relating to our TB discussions:-

Bigger Throttle body nonsense…
I love my dyno, it’s great.
It doesn’t suffer from any placebo effects, it doesn’t read biased rubbish on the internet, it doesn’t try to sell you anything or try to convince itself that its most recent purchase was not a total waste of money and it doesn’t flatter with “suits you, Sir” lies; it just measures what is being produced and shows it, warts an’ all.
So, now that’s out of the way, let’s look a little bit at HOW engines breathe, since that’s what induction changes seemingly set out set out to improve…..
Suck, squeeze, bang, blow right? Yes of course, mostly.
However, imagine that a given engine has a cylinder capacity of say, 3000cc, so each revolution it would DISPLACE 1500cc (1.5 litres), and that it’s running at 6000 rpm; that’s 100 revs per second so 50 CYCLES per second and thus, 150 litres per second @ 100% Volumetric Efficiency (VE). Think about that, a hundred and fifty litres per SECOND.
Well, given how fast that is all happening the VE isn’t going to be anything like 100%, is it, because there’s so little time to fill and empty the cylinders, right?
All the little restrictions along the way; air filter, trunking, intake silencer, throttle body, plenum chamber, intake runners, ports in the cylinder head, past the valves (which are closed for more than half of the time) and that’s just to get TO the cylinder, after all that it’s still got to get out….
SO…. what would you realistically expect the VE to be in such circumstances? Well, if you were to put a huge vacuum cleaner sucking at an unrestricted rate of 150 l/s (saving the piston’s uppy-downy motions from doing the job) pulling air through to the cylinders you’d get, perhaps 75% of the potential unrestricted flow. In that case there’s 25% of the potential flow lost to the restrictions.
You’re never going to get ZERO restriction because there’s far too much other necessary stuff in the engine and engine bay to fit filter, trunking, manifold and ports of sufficient proportions to have zero restriction.
A modern engine is pretty good out of the box and you wouldn’t ever expect as much as a 5% improvement in flow without drastic changes, and those very same drastic changes would likely make things worse in other ways. So, best ways up you might see 78 or 79% of the potential flow.
How come then, a typical modern high-performance road car engine has a VE of as much as 120%? Yes, a 3 litre engine would breathe as much as 3600cc in two revolutions!
With its silly uppy-downy pistons, pulling air past valves that are only open for typically 36% of the time, through ports that often have rough surfaces and uneven profiles, through often convoluted trunking and in from the outside world through a filter that only has open areas of a few microns. It cannot possibly be, surely? That’s over 50% more than the possible flow when the valves are only open for 36% of the time and the piston is only on the induction stroke for half of a revolution. “Get the ducking stool ready people, something isn’t right…..”
Well it can and it does, using PRESSURE WAVES. Tuning pressure waves is what it’s all about. Camshafts, exhausts, intake systems SHOULD all work absolutely together to harness the highs and lows of the pressure waves to best effect; so effective in fact that it amounts to a very significant supercharging effect.
Flow plays a very low second fiddle to pressure waves when it comes to tuning, because the difference that a loss of wave amplitude makes is far greater than the potential flow ‘increase’ from having a larger diameter and guess what? When the diameter of a pipe increases, the amplitude of the waves within it reduce because the molecule compression occurs over a greater area (the surface area, if you will, of the pipe section), so while the static flow may be imagined to be greater, the dynamic flow is actually considerably less.
For example, just look at a GT or F3 airbox - the airbox is huge to harness the pressure waves but the inlet FLOW is through a tiny little inlet restrictor, and despite this the engines still make PLENTY of power.
A flat six engine (all sixes actually for a specific reason that we don’t need to entertain here) is particularly well suited to harnessing the pressure waves that travel back and forth into, as well as across, the manifold if allowed to. They can make a huge difference to the VE at some engine speeds. This is why the (not stupid) design engineers at Porsche have gone to such great lengths to make best use of the pressure waves by employing various flaps in the system to either block or allow passage of pressure waves within the system.
When developing their engines manufacturers will do many, many hours of simulation work. After that they will make many test pieces, probably at least twenty different head casting designs, fifty camshaft profiles, piston crown designs, valve head shapes, compression ratios, manifold designs, you name it. At each engine test, a zillion sensors and probes are mounted all over the engine measuring everything that can be measured.
DO YOU NOT THINK THAT AT SOME POINT IN ALL THAT IT WOULD HAVE BECOME APPARENT TO THEM THAT IT NEEDED A BIGGER THROTTLE BODY?
No, of course not, they’re all stupid those Germans, right?
It takes Fred in his shed with probably zero engine design expertise, to think “Gad Daim, I can fit me a bigger throddle on there an’ life will be reeeeeal gewd….”
If only things were that simple…..
In the vast majority of cases BIGGER THROTTLE INTAKES DON’T WORK so save your money.
In every single Porsche case that I have EVER had on the dyno, NO bigger intake has made an improvement, and almost ALL has made less area under the curve than stock.
When a vendor selling parts says “There’s a 25 bhp difference with this Big-Boy Carlos Fandango intake Sonny Jim” just consider whether he means UP or DOWN!!!!!!

very fascinating, thanks for sharing Matt :)
this applies to both NA and forced right?
 
I'd agree that I'd be very careful changing much on a performance orientated car such as a porsche, if I was looking to modify for increased performance (if I were looking for increased drivability then there might be things to tweak but I doubt it).
Sadly or not? that's not the case with the CG13DE or CG10DE the CG is supposed to stand for clean and green or so I've read!

So given the manufacturer is going to optimise towards a particular use or sets of use then they will make design choices to suit that use, they will also make design decisions to suit a particular price point.
So apart from the clean and green what was Nissan's motivations when developing the CG? Well the only vehicles it's in are small cheap motorised shopping trolleys, their primary purpose is a small, cheap, reliable, bare bones, runabout that is easy to drive, economical to run, so all the design decisions were made with this in mind.

On the other hand if tuning for performance this means there's some easy and cheap gains to be had, in my case a new exhaust and inlet manifold as well as a larger throttlebody (dubious benefit maybe) has given close to 33% more power (Nistune tune as well although a ECU would be tuned from factory to suit), if Nissan engineers were chasing performance then they didn't try very hard!

Look at the weight of the flywheel, the twin cats, tiny exhaust and restrictive cast manifold, small brakes, beam rear axle, spartan interior. Don't get me wrong I like micras but they weren't designed as performance cars, of all it's cars it's one where I'd guess Nissan was least concerned about performance.

Now if we look at Paul's application: Track day car, performance over comfort, heavy braking and acceleration, high cornering forces, turbo putting out 160 hp? vrs the factory 75hp, we are pretty far from the intended purpose Nissan had in mind.
Yes I know there were Nissan supported Micra rally cars and performance Micras that probably got factory backing but I'd argue the initial design didn't have any of those in mind.

The contrast between the CG and a VG30DETT (3ltr twin turbo z32) that I've been helping with lately is HUGE! the VG is complicated as, unreliable as, and goes like stink if you get it running, Nissan at the time weren't afraid of complications and going all out for performance. I'd change those motors for greater reliability, I doubt you'd easily get much more performance out of them without bypassing emissions or using technology they didn't have back then.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
It was for interest reading, I didn't say it fully applied to Micras which as you say would have been tuned to a price more than performance. But given some of us have found little to no gains from using an increased TB size it is interesting reading. I suspect the reason for the standard TB being better for our application is that we are stuck with the standard inlet manifold (road rally regs and cost reasons) so the standard TB is 'tuned' to the standard inlet manifold. Moving away from the standard inlet manifold may see more gains.
 

frank

Club Member
you have to address the bottleneck first, the most restrictive area, and then when that is opened up you can probably fit a bigger t/b.
calculate the cross sectional area, for instance the inlet throats in the head are 18mm dia iirc, so pi x r x r multiplied by 8 throats that are each open for about 200 deg (depending on what cams you are running)
it they = less than the t/b then no gains
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
The elephant in the room here is that, it's already been proven (on an N/A CGA3DE at least) that increasing the standard throttle body from 45mm to 48mm does yield an increase, even on a bog stock intake, engine and cam. All testing done by one person on the same dyno. Anything more however resulted in a loss. Granted it's perhaps small gains when compared to those seen on a well proportioned manifold with ITBs for example, but it's a gain none the less.

Likely very true on a high end performance car that's enjoyed decades of progressive development with large budgets. In Paul's case however, if he's pulling a leaner AFR at WOT at any given point, the charge air density has increased. There's really nothing more to discuss.
 
That's what this (in results text):
http://www.hipermath.com/math_center/racing_calculations
Throttle body size calculator reckoned when I was playing with some numbers.

Curiously it's 'race' numbers correspond with the standard TB size it's not until you move the peak power figure to 7500rpm you get 48mm. 8300rpm before it deems a 50mm throttle body necessary.

It was for interest reading, I didn't say it fully applied to Micras
Sorry I can tend to make the point forcefully.
 
Useful calcs there. Anyone want to buy a GA15 TB????
I'm thinking of next time I get Spot tuned of quickly putting on the standard TB to see what difference it makes, trouble is that engine is going to be better able to make use of the GA15 TB. I remember the tuner being unconvinced about putting the GA15 TB on, Matt Argent has also gone back to a smaller TB as he said they were getting max air readings before the throttle was fully open so the smaller TB gives better throttle control.
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Maybe it's worthy of it's own thread. I'll certainly be putting my experiences in my blog as I'm honing in on 250bhp from the stock inlet manifold and head :geek:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'd agree that I'd be very careful changing much on a performance orientated car such as a porsche, if I was looking to modify for increased performance (if I were looking for increased drivability then there might be things to tweak but I doubt it).
Sadly or not? that's not the case with the CG13DE or CG10DE the CG is supposed to stand for clean and green or so I've read!

So given the manufacturer is going to optimise towards a particular use or sets of use then they will make design choices to suit that use, they will also make design decisions to suit a particular price point.
So apart from the clean and green what was Nissan's motivations when developing the CG? Well the only vehicles it's in are small cheap motorised shopping trolleys, their primary purpose is a small, cheap, reliable, bare bones, runabout that is easy to drive, economical to run, so all the design decisions were made with this in mind.

On the other hand if tuning for performance this means there's some easy and cheap gains to be had, in my case a new exhaust and inlet manifold as well as a larger throttlebody (dubious benefit maybe) has given close to 33% more power (Nistune tune as well although a ECU would be tuned from factory to suit), if Nissan engineers were chasing performance then they didn't try very hard!

Look at the weight of the flywheel, the twin cats, tiny exhaust and restrictive cast manifold, small brakes, beam rear axle, spartan interior. Don't get me wrong I like micras but they weren't designed as performance cars, of all it's cars it's one where I'd guess Nissan was least concerned about performance.

Now if we look at Paul's application: Track day car, performance over comfort, heavy braking and acceleration, high cornering forces, turbo putting out 160 hp? vrs the factory 75hp, we are pretty far from the intended purpose Nissan had in mind.
Yes I know there were Nissan supported Micra rally cars and performance Micras that probably got factory backing but I'd argue the initial design didn't have any of those in mind.

The contrast between the CG and a VG30DETT (3ltr twin turbo z32) that I've been helping with lately is HUGE! the VG is complicated as, unreliable as, and goes like stink if you get it running, Nissan at the time weren't afraid of complications and going all out for performance. I'd change those motors for greater reliability, I doubt you'd easily get much more performance out of them without bypassing emissions or using technology they didn't have back then.

indeed my application is very far from the micra's original factory criteria but like any project car, kasandra is an ongoing experiment, making choices which suit my circumstances and letting me express my engineering curiosity to improve things :cool:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
It was for interest reading, I didn't say it fully applied to Micras which as you say would have been tuned to a price more than performance. But given some of us have found little to no gains from using an increased TB size it is interesting reading. I suspect the reason for the standard TB being better for our application is that we are stuck with the standard inlet manifold (road rally regs and cost reasons) so the standard TB is 'tuned' to the standard inlet manifold. Moving away from the standard inlet manifold may see more gains.

there's probably a big difference in level of gains between N/A & forced induction when enlarging a restrictive TB
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
you have to address the bottleneck first, the most restrictive area, and then when that is opened up you can probably fit a bigger t/b.
calculate the cross sectional area, for instance the inlet throats in the head are 18mm dia iirc, so pi x r x r multiplied by 8 throats that are each open for about 200 deg (depending on what cams you are running)
it they = less than the t/b then no gains

yeah a system is only as good/strong as the weakest bottleneck
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The elephant in the room here is that, it's already been proven (on an N/A CGA3DE at least) that increasing the standard throttle body from 45mm to 48mm does yield an increase, even on a bog stock intake, engine and cam. All testing done by one person on the same dyno. Anything more however resulted in a loss. Granted it's perhaps small gains when compared to those seen on a well proportioned manifold with ITBs for example, but it's a gain none the less.

Likely very true on a high end performance car that's enjoyed decades of progressive development with large budgets. In Paul's case however, if he's pulling a leaner AFR at WOT at any given point, the charge air density has increased. There's really nothing more to discuss.

it's all a balancing & compromising act especially when the cams, C/R, timings etc etc are all fixed.

having something too small or too large for a certain operation will throw the rest of the system out of balance making it inefficient, losing performance.

yup it seems that opening the restrictive TB on my turbo setup improved volumetric efficiency allowing the boost to easily cram more air density into the engine at high loads. It leaned out at the high end cos the Nistune map has never been mapped with this increased air density.
therefore will require remapping to utilise the bigger opening.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
How are things going Paul? No input on here, from you, for about a month now?
Paul puts a lot of updates on Facebook these days.

allo allo John & Dave. sorry for the month gap, I'm still alive here :p

just being busy with working all week, working on car on evenings, working on ppls cars on weekends, and not enough energy or time afterwards to write my usual detailed blog updates here :sleep:

don't worry, big updates about the past months coming soon
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
applied some epoxy putty around the turbo oil drain fitting to temporarily reduce the oil leak

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found some more rust under the door seals

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the snow in Feb was a nice test of the LSD working well :cool:

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after running the new engine 1000miles, time to service it.
rebuilt LSD giving the magnetic plug plenty of debris

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filthy oil

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winter sun inbetween the sun visors were blinding me and didn't have any vinyl strip on hand, so improvised with a roll of ducktape :p:cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Remote fuel cap

wanted to ditch the old sticky fuel cap cable release and make it electronic, so brought some solenoid actuators to experiment

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turns out there's a lot of friction in the spring loaded fuel cap so the tiny linear electromagnet simply ain't powerful enough. I'd probably have to use a rack & pinion or central locking actuator.

for the moment I tried making a quick latch

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soon made it into a cable operated latch

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Reinforced upper front strut brace

often thought the OMP strut brace was basically too floppy & weak and just for looks

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chopped it all apart to make a stronger brace

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this adjuster could soon be used in the panhard rod instead

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made a stronger mount to bolt onto

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soon found the PAS pressure sensor block was intruding

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so I machined it down and tied it to one side for now

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figuring out the best structure, a straight bar between the struts would be the stiffest but it's too close to the TB pipes and obstructs the brake reservoir

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a better solution was to curve the brace to clear the TB & reservoir, keep the forces going throuh the centre of the strut mount and anchor it to the bulkhead to reduce any flexing

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a lick of red paint :cool: and it looks the business (y)

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found this Bisto chicken flavour cap was perfect size for covering the top mount :D

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testing it in the countryside bends and wow the steering is a lot more responsive now :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
reinstalled the bonnet LED lights

micra (11).jpg
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here's a look at the cross section of the old JE low compression forged pistons that blew up last year, it's perfectly strong enough

micra (13).jpg


realigned the wheels with 0.15deg toe out, found it really helped turn-in and reduce the 'floppy' feel of the soft Toyo sidewalls

micra (14).jpg


after dropping and smashing my old & slow HTX One X+ phone, I finally bit the bullet and invested in a new Huawei P20 Pro with Twilight cover, mainly for the powerful camera and WOW boy oh boy is this one hell of a camera :D:cool::love:

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'aperture mode' gives some amazing depth of field effect

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but the main thing that amazes me is the friggin Night mode that can capture really dark shots and balances all the exposures like HDR and just look at how awesome she looks :D:D

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Machine new adjustable Dump Valve

wanted to make a fully adjustable dump valve to balance the spring rate against the inlet vacuum so it only opens when there's excess pressure.
modelled the first prototype

dump.jpg
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machined all the parts

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it's bigger than I thought lol. boost was still leaking and found the pressure was lifting the piston open

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redesigned with a better seal and keeping it aligned straight

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works a lot better now
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
trimmed some soy sauce labels to decorate my oil catch cans lol :LOL::coffee:

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after 1000miles the new engine filled the catch can almost full :oops:

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capturing a ton more vapour than ever, probably due to the excess blowby from the intentionally loose ring end gaps

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
micra (27).jpg


after buying a new phone, I wondered if the old HTC could be used as an onboard HD camera? to repair the cracked screen I found it's cheaper to just buy another whole spare phone and swap the screens :D

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roughly test fitted it on a jig and although it was HD quality, the phone casing etc was too flimsy & floppy so it was shaky & useless and biggest flaw was it can only record upto 4gb and just stop recording or corrupt :rolleyes:

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friend at the car meet sold me their old cheapo action camera and although it worked, somehow during the trackday it stopped working :cry: still figuring what broke

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there's a massive boost leak so did a few tests and found the old intercooler was more pourous than swiss cheese :poop:

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tried to block the leaking passages with sealant but didn't work and tbh it's all probably fatigued now

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reassembled before the track day

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-02-10 Weld exhaust for Nicholas black MR2

a m8 of mine needed me to convert his MR2 from a dual tail pipe into a single exhaust

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so I removed the old pipes via a simple v-band

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he brought along a 90deg bend to connect the new silencer

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afew making a new mount and figuring the right angle, the new exhaust was welded & clamped

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we finished late in the evening and damn it's loud ? could hear it for miles away
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-02-12 Machining wheel spacers

a guy needed his new ebay wheel spacers machined to a smaller diameter to clear his brake calipers, which my mini lathe was barely able to fit but did it ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-02 Full stainless exhaust for Matthews Octavia 4x4 turbo estate

my m8 Matthew needed me to help build a bigger exhaust for his octavia turbo estate.
it was abit tricky jacking up a lowered car with this body kit so I had to lift it bit by bit

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this bit of the original exhaust around the rear diff was sooooo restrictive ?

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you can guess from the pictures that removing the old downpipe from the back of this tight engine bay was an absolute PITA!! ??

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so that's why it's been blowing out hard cos the nut's rusted right off

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salvage the old sensors

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matthew brought this 3" downpipe but we soon found out it was actually meant for a FWD octavia whereas this is an AWD estate with a huge prop shaft through the middle ?

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with the old downpipe destroyed and daytime running out, the only option to get him home was to remove the driveshaft temporarily (an even bigger PITA) and weld the new downpipe to the remaining exhaust

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We met up another time to resolve this downpipe conflict

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chopped the new downpipe and began reconstructing the path to clear the prop shaft

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dropped the cat back exhaust

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welded the reconstructed stainless downpipe to the steel cat back. it's a tight fitment cramming a 3" pipe between a propshaft, prop bearing, subframe & chassis

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chopping his old exhaust apart, wonder if I can re-use these cats on my turbo micra ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
few weeks later we meet up to finish making the rear of the exhaust.
again removing the exhaust was a mission

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many hours later I made a much smoother & bigger flowing exhaust compared to the original

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added his electronic bypass valve ?

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sits nicely

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it was slightly louder than he wanted but he also had this teeny spare silencer in the boot. we quickly shuved it on the end of the prev backbox for curious laugh and it was actually slightly quieter so left it on ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-11 Teesside Autodrome Trackday

reassembled Kassandra with her badly porous old intercooler

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arrived at 8am on a sunny morning next to Stevens fire spitting rx8 :D

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frankie came later in her Prelude :cool:

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10:30am run 1
tyre pressure - 2.2 / 2.4bar cold
15/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
45% fuel
driver only



old intercooler was leaking soo much boost from 12.3psi down to just 7psi and lost soo much power

lap times:
1.04
1.05
1.01

0.56
0.57
0.56
0.56
1.01

11:18am run 2

tyre pressure - 2.7 / 2.7bar hot
10/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
40% fuel
with Steven as passenger



giving Steven a ride, who was in the fire spitting RX8 earlier in front of me

lap times:
0.59
0.56
0.59
1.01
0.59
0.57

0.57

1:12pm run 3
tyre pressure - 2.7 / 2.7bar hot
10/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
100% fuel
Nicholas as passenger



giving my m8 Nicholas a ride, who drives a black MR2

lap times:
1.00
0.57
0.59
1.03
0.58

0.56
0.56
0.58
0.58

1:48pm run 4
tyre pressure - 2.7 / 2.7bar hot
10/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
80% fuel
with Frankiee as passenger



giving Frankie a ride, who drives the golden Prelude

lap times:
0.57
0.57
0.57
0.57
0.57
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2:12pm run 5
tyre pressure gauge no power
10/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
60% fuel
with Nicholas as passenger



giving Nicholas another ride ? my tyre gauge also ran outa battery

lap times:
0.58
0.57
0.56
1.01

3:42pm run 6
tyre pressure gauge no power
10/30 damper
60/40 brake bias
dry warm track
50% fuel
driver only



last run with the setup dialled in

lap times:
0.56
0.55
0.56
0.54
0.56
0.58

0.55
0.55
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-12 Cracked piston #3

after the trackday, she created a ton of oil vapour in the catch cans ?

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checked compression and oh dear #3 is really really low ?

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checking if all the valve clearances are correct and they're all perfect

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made this little adapter to use my foot pump on my compression tester as a leakdown tester ?

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tested cylinder #3 and yup it's definately leaking past the rings and down into the crackcase, soo guess I cracked the usual #3 ring land again ??

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brought a spare cg13 piston

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a lot of blowby was condensed

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begin stripping the head off

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sump removed

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oh dear, yeah #3 is ruined

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cleaned the spare piston

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this epoxy over the leaking turbo drain wasn't working so I chipped it off and welded it properly

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something has struck the turbo again and bent one of the fins :(

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tried carefully bending it back but unfortunately it cracked off ? hope it'll spin ok

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cleaned the deck and reassembled

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fired her up and she's running smooth ?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-16 Lead acid battery replacement

I've always noticed these Odyssey racing batteries don't last so well and quickly drains out minutes after using anything as simple as the LED interior lights, headlights, or even just the hazards and then got stranded at a maccyD just listening to my tunes for 30mins ? this was silly

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so I decided to just fit a normal battery I got from work

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machined one of the terminals that was too small

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clamped snugly to the floor

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-20 New Intercooler

finally got myself a new shiny intercooler ??

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it has a much better flowing "plate & bar" construction with a thicker core than before

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old vs new

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lol she has a shiny new set of teeth now ???

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this is whats inside the old intercooler ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-23 SR20 MAF air leak

testing the charge pipes for any leaks after fitting the new intercooler, I found the GTIR maf had a few leaks

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one was from this siliconed section

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used an old silicone elbow to fix that

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another leak from the adapter plate

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didn't have any o-rings big enough so I improvised with some USB cable lol
did the job

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wasn't happy with the thin flexing adapter plate so I made a new one from thick plate

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new o-ring I got from an oil filter kit

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now it's all sealed much better ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-23 New CG13 Engine

on the facebook MSC market place I spotted someone down Hull selling a complete low mileage CG13 for £100 ?
the guy referred me to John who runs a garage in Hull. he used to tune alot of cars and now breakers alot of micras. I quickly popped down, we had a good chat and collected my new engine.

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just like the last engine I brought from hull back in November, it came with a ton of spares attached ?

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a smaller PAS pump compared to mine

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hooked up the starter motor to do a rough compression test to check it's condition and it has good equal readings ?

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immaculate inside

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clutch in average condition

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this low milage block will be a good rebuilding candidate one day for when I convert over to standalone ECU and a new turbo

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-24 Dyno runs with CCS club at DynoRemaps

the local CCS club I regularly meet with was holding a dyno day at a local tuner place, be interesting to see what she does in her broken state compared to her last dyno run

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along with Steve in the RX8 who I met at the trackday

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Kassandra went on the dyno

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compared to her previous forged piston setup, considering she also has a leaking cracked #3 ring land, boost leak, and included the mid-cat, she created a surprising 164hp? ???‍♂️ a strange huge dip at 6k rpm

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it was Lukes turn in his Corrado

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it was under-performing and something not right so we headed back home to check timing etc

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I found the throttle wasn't fully opening, we corrected the cable tension and it pulls much better now

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went for another run and yet still doesn't reach the factory output...months later we soon found it was actually misfiring on 5 cyls

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ended the night meeting at the usual Cafe point

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-23 Neater fuse box wiring

wanted to fix this rusty exposed wiring that was chopped off the old ABS unit

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eliminated the useless wiring

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and rewrapped the loom

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-03-31 Electrical breakdown

Kassandra's been suffering from some random electrical glitch where the ignition randomly cuts out whilst driving along, the engine light blinks briefly like whenever the NATS triggered, and the wideband restarts itself ?

at the local car meet, I went to crank the car but sadly she refused to fire up for some reason ?:poop:

I did have my tow-rod and Alex in the huge diesel land rover said he could tow me home.
he did get me home but OMFG being towed at night behind a huge land rover with the shortest solid rod, whizzing at 60mph, with no communication, and a constant face full of thick veg-oil coal-rolling soot is the single most terrifying thing I've ever done! ??:poop::poop:

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I took the fusebox apart

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and discovered the shared ground pins that included the injectors were corroded apart, which may explain the random cut-out and difficult cold starts

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I resoldered the connections back together, reassembled and tried cranking her but she still blinks her engine light / NATS triggered and refuses to fire up ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-04-02 Resolve Ignition issue / removing NATS

after fixing a rusty injector fusebox connection, she refused to start and kept blinking her engine/NATS lights. did the bad injector wiring trigger NATS? removed the ECU to investigate

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tested the fuel lines and the pump is priming ok during the 4sec ignition ON. so it's getting fuel flow but injectors are just not triggering due to NATS ?

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in case the ECU was damaged, I managed to buy a spare CG10 ecu on the left (different wiring and didn't work) and a face-lift NATS ecu on the right

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soldered the nistune ribbon onto the new face-lift NATS ecu

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I also deactivated the NATS function within the Nistune mapping since this is a different mismatched ECU, uploaded the map and Hey Presto! the engine light returns back and she fires back up YAY!! ???

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since NATS is eliminated, I may as well completely remove the whole system/wiring so it never conflicts again

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inside a NATS transponder & key

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reassembled the working car ?

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-04-23 Rewire Nistune

even after replacing the ECU and eliminating NATS, the random & really annoying electrical hiccup / glitch has returned until the engine light barely connects. there's a loose wiring somewhere ?

wondering if it's the nistune ribbon cable, I tried reconnecting it with individual wires with no frustrating success ?

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as a last resort, during an MSC trip to Sweden to visit ralph & iris new home for Ralphfest 2019, he helped rewire my nistune ECU with his better solder kit

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back at home I reconnected the ECU and was pulling my hair when it still didn't work ARGHH! ??

ok I maticulously traced & tested every single circuit in the Nistune connection from pin-to-pin chip-to-chip

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until finally I discovered this tiny single track had a dry faulty solder connection. I bridged it with wire and behold she WORKS! ??? thank god

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