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PollyMobiles Rebuild

thought i'd take the stock calipers apart to check their condition

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removed from carrier

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abit of cloth & wood to cusion the piston when it pops out

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now the pistons been stored for over a year now so tis abit sticky n air from a footpump wont be enough to nudge it yet so i pushed the piston all the way in with a g-clamp to free up the seal then pumped the piston out with a footpump

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piston is fine

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peel off the dust cover

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and the seal

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clean the bore

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the other piston is bubbling abit but not major

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calipers reassembled. i can now push the pistons in with my thumbs

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measured piston 2 ring end gaps and they're 0.356, 0.356, 0.381, 0.381 much better
 
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took out the spare rear caliper piston and looks fine. think i'll replace the slightly rusted rear right piston with it.

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ok measured all piston end gaps and results are:

(top, 2nd, oil1, oil2)
piston1: 0.432 0.356 0.508 0.533
piston2: 0.356 0.356 0.381 0.381
piston3: 0.406 0.305 0.356 0.330
piston4: 0.559 0.381 0.483 0.457

top rings are outa spec. piston 4 has slight more blowby staining between top & 2nd ring than the others due to that big gap.

pistons reinstalled

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not for now. will be honed & re-ringed in future when i ruined the 2 stock engines or want more power. just reassembling back together to store away.
stock HG does the job
 
pistons positioned

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fitted crank

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timing chain

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head & sump on

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now to fix the OSF wing rust. chipped off as much rust layers to get close to base metal

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sanded rust off

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need to take wing off for better access

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bumper screw point needs levelling

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sanded down to bare metal but rust has eaten in so need to rust treat & fill

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bashed flat n sanded

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treated n fillered

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forged engine assembled n stored away

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wing sanded down

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2 coats a primer

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base coat

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laquered then tried to blend with alota rubbing compound. damn messy using the drill mounted sponge that flings it everywhere. surface is all smoothed but gargh looks like the paint is a shade too dark

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clearly seen here.

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ah bugga it, it'll do

when i next do any panel may as well just paint the entire section. bonnet could really do with a repaint.
 
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wanna recirc the bov so i figured out a route

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joins to the inlet pipe like this

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found a matching pipe off a spare coolant return pipe

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filed to match the inlet pipe

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hole marked n drilled

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wirebrushed clean

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first few attempts at welding it

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was a small leakin hole so tried to weld it up but made a bigger hole which i had to weld up again. argh it was so frustrating not having enough skill to fully seal it up and just blowing holes through the thinner small pipe. eventually ended up with a tiny hole and couldn't be bothered to weld any more cos it ain't gonna improve. tis just an inlet pipe under slight vacuum so it'll do. guess another naughty way to fix it is to body fill all the holes then paint it over

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installed

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the bov functions much quieter now with a fhhhhh rather than a sudden pshhhhh. when lifting off i can hear the bypassed air and turbo retarding alot slower and so maintaining its rpm. turbo spooling between gear changes feels much quicker and smoother
 
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filled n sanded n painted the joint

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fitted

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i tested the MAF meter and has a slight leak in the flange so resealed it

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cut the ends off the plastic wiper panel thats touching the raised bonnet

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should run it like this :p

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also had to file the top ends of the wings cos its literally rubbing with the bonnet when opening

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i had to blend the lower end of the MAF graph (bout 0-1k rpm) from the janspeed map into the GTI-R maf graph. the gti-r graph just had a constant value of like 145 from 0-500rpm making it idle lean rough n stall.

i'll post a graph comparing the MAF's

also tweaking the idle bleed screw & inj latency & multiplier.
mixtures still not 100% spot on but at least it idles & cruises bout 14.7 and WOT bout 11-12
 
here's a section graph view of the various maf maps near the idle region. they both eventually reach the same peak value.

the red line is from the janspeed map, starts from 0 builds steeper initially

the yellow blending into purple line is the GTI-R maf map starting at 146VQ from 0 - 470mV (bout 0-400rpm)

the purple line is the new current maf map mixing both of them

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no hang on, just double checked in the car and its actually like this

red: janspeed
yellow: GTI-R
purple: blended graph

maf.jpg
 
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installed me nuts

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just had a thought. whenever i go very fast or on tracksdays the steering vibrates alot like an unbalanced/centred brake disc or wheel, improves abit on smooth motorways. now i'm currently using the 17mm socket wheel nuts that came with the alloys and a locking nut that replaces the stock 21mm socket.
is it possible the larger bulkier locking wheel nut has unbalanced the wheel assembly?
maybe i should refit the old stock alloy nuts to test it, but i think the taper angle was wrong and had an unworn lip (prob need abit of filing)
 
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Cans?! that is awesome for a can job! get the bonnet done as i am really interested to see how well it comes out. (Y)
 
I'm currently sanding the bonnet down to bare metal and omg its soo much hard work as its a very big panel. Only done 1/4 and i'm shattered from all the slow hand sanding. Lets hope i can get this done in time for japshow
 
taking it to metal? why is it that bad? why not just rub the damage with 320 and prime that area while scotch britin the rest the colour and laqure????

if not could have used nitromors!!!! very speedy paint removal
 
I'm currently sanding the bonnet down to bare metal and omg its soo much hard work as its a very big panel. Only done 1/4 and i'm shattered from all the slow hand sanding. Lets hope i can get this done in time for japshow

nice weight reduction,as people spray layer apon layers adding ounces for nothing
martin used some sort of grinder/drill wheel to go down to metal,no?,,,,,,,,,oh yeh and wax on wax off i think he said
 
the bonnet had bubbling rust spots all over. wirebrush wheel was slow n noisy n just polished the surface. paint/rust remover wheel was noisy n slow n scoring.
i had this buffing wheel that you can attached various cloth/buffer/sand discs via velcro. used the redstone sanding disc and it eats through paint with ease n speed. although must keep speed low cos the paint would melt turning to putty and clogging the disc frequently. so i used a hose to trickle water along while sanding with some soap and it kept the disc clean, carrys away the debris and cools the paint, overall speeding up the process but it is a veryyyy wet process, legs soaked and the disc slowly falling apart as its paper backed.

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more sanding by hand cos twas getting late

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i wanna sand the whole bonnet so its all even otherwise i'd end up with some high & low spots all over the bonnet where i sanded the rust down to metal through the thick layers of paint.
 
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there are types of pads that strip the paint to bare metal without damaging the metal and leaves it smooth, George used one but i cannot for the life of me think of what it was called! :(
 
its funny though at work we nitromors panels and then use 40 or 80 grit disks on the DA and its gives a goot etch into the metal for some nice thick coat of primer
 
its funny though at work we nitromors panels and then use 40 or 80 grit disks on the DA and its gives a goot etch into the metal for some nice thick coat of primer

I'm currently trying to nitromors my old tool box and the damn paint barely lifts! I'm using the green stuff
 
just using what i have at the mo on a tight schedule for japshow. i'll try nitromors next time, tis basically acid aint it?

anyway i've finished sanding it all now. found its been filled before on the edge

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wirebrushed n rust treated the underside

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filled n flattened the stone dent

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good thing i brought 2 big cans of primer n paint cos its barely enough for this big panel. also went off my rocker when a drop of water splashed from the roof onto the dry bonnet before painting. if it happened during spraying it would be a disaster

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couldn't be bothered to wait so base coat applied using all 2 cans

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rather than finishing tomorrow i waited 1hr to dry then laquered. then 2 tiny flies decided to commit suicide while i was spraying and ruined! my laquer grr oh fck it

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needs another clear coat tomorrow. tisn't spray booth quality but it'll do for now
 
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Looks good - you going tomorrow? Oh, and nitromors isn't acid, it's methanol that gets into the paint :).
 
yep i'm goin tomorrow

looks bit ok this morning. laquer is abit matte so went over it with 1200 wet paper then applied the second coat and tis shinier

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drying

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buffed with tcut colour and it looks alright

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all good

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sprayed bits of the underside with left over paint

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painted the tyre letters and once this rain stops it needs a good wash from all the dust
 
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mostly done mechanically. need to make oil catch, fine tune the map, maybe sort the rocker cover and there's always some minor continuous improvements.

look like this at the mo

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all ready for tomorrow
 
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Looking good(Y)
What laquer did you use? I can't get a decent finish with spray can laquer no matter how much I put on it's just too thin, I went straight through mine with fine sandpaper and ruined it.
 
Halfords laquer. The trick with laquer is to repeatedly spray the same line (keep the can moving smoothly across as you spray, keep bout 4" away and point squarely at the surface) building up the layers until you see the surface become glossy, the molecules clump together to form a smooth surface, (and no more or it'll run) looking against the reflection of a nearby light before progressing to the next line down. Think of it as like an inkjet printer making a photo print.
 
Jap Show 2011

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hey everyone. finally have the energy back to write bout the japshow.

was hard to sleep and had to set off at 5am. packed the essentials n headed straight down to santapod for 9am.
almost there on the last stretch of road and i was amongst a string of cars racing n weaving through the country towards the gates, twas intimidating :p

joined the multiple queues of very expensive skylines, civics, evos, supras etc. threw £15 at the entrance lady to receive an event booklet & entrance ticket. followed the row of cars, the marshall directing ppl then made some hand gesture, dunno what the heck he's on about so pointed me into the public car park on the left.

got out, dunno where to go or meet ashley sw so i headed up to find the track office to apply for rwyb, place was a complete maze. eventually got there and ashley was behind me :) he went off to join the strip while i applied with the last applic forms, got the wrist band, erm now what? didn't seem to be any means to gather n meetup or see a rwyb pit area. saw ash on the strip, place is surreal with activity n there's some real loud cars :p

met up with ash n decided to go straight to the track. i was originally hoping that there's was some patch for members to gather up, store their stuff before running but nope i'd have to carry ALL the heavy tools with me onboard, gr8.

walked all the way back to the car, lowered tyre pressure to 2bars, harden shocks and headed to the strip with ash. this is my first drag race and boy my tummy was turning while making sure i was gonna be in line beside ash.

Drag Run 1

cars ahead gone, ok here we go. headed for the wet black marked strip. i'm gonna try a burnout, lift revs drop clutch wheel spins and she veers abit to the left whoa, pulled her back and now line up the the start. ash is already set and i crawl up seeing one light, two light. i stop and was gonna pull the handbrake to load up the turbo but i had no time, the four amber immediately went on earlier than i hoped so i reved to 3k, green i dropped the clutch and OH FFS! i saw the battery light come on i friggin stalled, quickly restarted and away we go. god that was embarrasing:doh: caught up with ash 1/2 way and sailed past. woops

did a 17.73 at 88.56mph

Drag Run 2

went for a 2nd run. ok this time i better not muck it up, use more revs. lined up, do burnout holding the steering tight and its abit straighter but still veers to the slightest twitch. right, past the two lights, handbrake on, 4 ambers on, rev above 3k, drag the clutch 1/2way as the turbo spools, green light, foot to the floor while smoothly lifting the clutch. she takes off nicely with minimal wheelspin, track feels like velvet. 7k shift to 2nd then 3rd and past the finish reaching the rev limit. twas a nice run.

did 15.22 at 89.61mph

Handling Track

was 11.30 and fancied doin the handling track as it just opened. popped over and they were just setting up the cones. i went for the first run, looked pretty simple with afew slaloms, hairpin and slalom back before reversing into the start finish. first run i started on the wrong side of the slalom cones, first one was placed more to the left for a reason. anyway the next few runs were much better doin 28s then 27s then 26s getting faster n faster :) it was soooo much fun. dampers n preload were prob too soft as she pitches up n down and sways abit on the hard hairpins as i struggle to control the throttle when keepin in 1st gear cos it was like total on/off throttling. found that brancing my right leg against the door helps. guy says my rear right wheel on the last hard turn was perched high up by like this much.

did my 4 runs but wanted another go so i queued up lol

managed to record my run now. i hardened the shocks to lessen the sway.



bit more aggressive n faster with controls now, one point it was too hard and almost touched the cone. turning hard till she squeels and pushing throttle just spins tyres so would have to be smooth n progressive with throttle. managed to get a 26.16s and had loadsa fun. still found it hard to believe later on how greg did a 23s in his N/A stripped micra with chopped springs although i was carrying afew kg of tools n rear seats.

Drag Run 3

went back to the strip and saw frank :) he had to go wait till 1pm for the office to reprint summore applic forms so me n ash went over the do our runs. ash went to the line and i was gonna go to my right lane till i saw this sweeper machine coming backwards to clean the lane turning around and almost hitting me :/ figured that side was closed and went to the left as signalled. 3rd run felt abit quicker at the launch and so was gonna hit the limiter in 3rd before the finish so shifted to 4th, she kinda goes but then momentarily dips abit in power before finishing. dunno what happened but would've been a fast time.

Drag Run 4

ash had used up his runs but eventually frank got his wrist band and i headed up to the strip with him. it shut for a 30min break. on resume the car had cooled abit so had to heat it up to prevent WOT on a cold engine.

here's the run



this time i made a complete mess of it. too much wheel spin at the start, had to feather throttle to regain grip losing time and then i shifted to 2nd to quickly. still WOT the revs slowly dropping as the clutch barely struggles to match the speed then again into 3rd, sounding like an automatic until eventually it rapidly overheats and packs in, just revving away. shifted into 4th and had to abort the run. frank just zooming away as i cruise towards the finish. bargh damnit oh well :p

on the way back parking next to ash i noticed greg, we had a long chat, throat was killin from it lol. frank came back to the gather with 2 more runs, gave to greg, lucky fella:grinning:

anyway twas a grand day out, proceeded back home at 4pm running on vapour but just bout reached the nearest shell station and drove a long 4hrs back home till my bum was numb:laugh:
 
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ok now that i've posted me first ever youtube video, i'm currently editing my past runs at rockingham and oulton park to post up soon
 
finished editing the footage from rockingham.

here's the first familiarisation laps


it rained all morning so the track was very wet n cold. here's my first lap when i had a hairy moment with the back end kicking out


once the track dried up i went out for afew hotlaps with a passenger while a m8 followed behind to capture the cars behavior. i mixed the two clips in this film, enjoy
 
tday i noticed some odd LH bearing noise. jacked it up and once again the LH driveshaft nut has loosened off. retightened with some locktight.

while i'm there i'm gonna replace the wheel nuts back to the old stock ones.
put em on a piller drill and file the lip off till they're flat

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loadsa dust

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fitted em on and i think the highspeed vibrations gone
 
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