• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my pleasure! can't wait to see it finished! in time for nice weather too! (Y)

oh yes.

just finished braiding the wires neatly together
k550i (1348).JPG
k550i (1349).JPG
 
Last edited:

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
thats some good going
the windows are slow without engine runin so rightfully roof should speed up
it always winds me up having to wind wind wind that manual winder- this should be under lazy mods hehe
the sed5000 search facility doesnt let you down !
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
definately a lazy mod :)
just slowly adding more and more optional extras from the entire k11 range, just missing air con but don't want the extra weight of it, open window n roof will do for me.
ur my next google man shaun :p
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cheers shaun, collision & sleeper

dremeled off the bolt obstructing the motor

k550i (1353).JPG


bolted the motor to the frame but had to trim abit off the top cover to clear the nut

k550i (1354).JPG


was looking around to see where i could install the switch. thought about either the driverside door or on a centre console blanking plate next to the hazards switch but both require alota dremellingn work and i don't have a milling dremel head with me and shops closed. couldn't be bothered tbh but found a good place and just superglued the switch to the flat bottom edge of the motor casing :p
does the job, secure and its where i ideally wanted it

k550i (1355).JPG


routed the 12v wire down the a-pillar

k550i (1356).JPG


past the glovebox

k550i (1358).JPG


and down to my cig lighter extension

k550i (1359).JPG


installed

k550i (1360).JPG


this is the "couldn't be bothered" rough working installation 1, and prob connect it up properly over weekend but it works for now.

the motor controller is a nifty thing. every time ign is switched on to power the sunroof it only allows you to move the sunroof slider forward hence tilt. when it reaches the end of the slider and stops, the circuit senses that the motor shaft has stopped, rewinds 1 turn, cuts power and now its reset and knows that its at the far end of the slider and where it should stop. clever system.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hehe my work colleuge brought a pack of poundshop rubber duckies on my bday as a joke and he stuck one in the cavity of my now stripped interior. an amusing surprise when passengers put down the visor :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wirebrushed n painted the rusty rear handgrip bracket

k550i (1363).JPG


was such a glorious day tday. cleaned the alloys with brake cleaner & cloth but specks of brake dust have glued to the alloys

k550i (1364).JPG
k550i (1365).JPG


using brake cleaner with a scotchpad fixed that

k550i (1366).JPG


both wheels cleaned

k550i (1367).JPG


polished

k550i (1368).JPG


the sunroof motor seems to be rattling against the frame so i grinded the studs further

k550i (1371).JPG


ducktaped the motor to cusion it

k550i (1372).JPG


bolted up

k550i (1373).JPG


i'm too tired from all that wheel polishing and sunny heat. gona finish the rear wheels tomorrow
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cleaned n polished the rear wheels

k550i (1375).JPG
52397861.jpg


front crossmember appears abit rusty so took off bumper for closer look

k550i (1377).JPG


abit of surface rust. this rust treatment solution obviously doesn't work

k550i (1378).JPG
k550i (1379).JPG
k550i (1381).JPG


oh ohh the left side already developing a weak hole

k550i (1382).JPG


wirebrushed

k550i (1383).JPG


undercoated whole crossmember. hopefully it'll work better in slowing down the rust

k550i (1384).JPG
k550i (1386).JPG
k550i (1385).JPG
k550i (1390).JPG
k550i (1387).JPG
k550i (1388).JPG
 
Last edited:

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
that is so bloomins smooth thought that sunroof felt solid on the winder stick and you proved it I NEED THAT
you can hear the thing sliding now similar to the windows? let us know
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yea it operates at similar speed to the windows though it struggles slightly at mid sliding prob cos of the increased friction n load of moving the entire sunroof mechanism and sliding cover but it gets there eventually
 
That is so smooth! If I was looking down on that from above, I'd be half expecting a rocket to launch from it, explode the car in front, then slide closed again :D
 

Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
could always make a bigger version and have it on top with a roof rack for track days.... would be fun! nerf rocket go! lol
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
decided to replace the gear linkage on weekend cos i felt the polyurethane bushes were abit worn slack. so went to a scrappy in redcar, saw the guy move afew cars outa the way with forklift truck to lift the facelift micra out the back. removed the gearlinkage and got it for £15, bargain :)

k550i (1391).JPG
k550i (1392).JPG


joint feels in good condition

k550i (1393).JPG


grinded the rivet off the pivot shaft

k550i (1396).JPG


and knocked the shaft out to separate the joint from linkage

k550i (1398).JPG


line up of the new parts on top against the old parts below

k550i (1399).JPG
k550i (1403).JPG
k550i (1401).JPG
k550i (1400).JPG
k550i (1404).JPG


fitted the ball bearings into the new joints, feels much tighter fit now. bolted all up and gear shifts are much more precise n solid :)

the front badge that i stuck with foam tape fell off when i washed the car. looks abit tatty cos the black lettering has aged off

k550i (1405).JPG


sanded the back flat to remove residue. appears the plastic badge is copper plated then chrome plated

k550i (1406).JPG


masked then cut out the lettering

k550i (1407).JPG


didn't have any black paint around the house. tried underbody paint but didn't work. red hammerite spray paint was way too watery. so i tried PU sealant smeared over

k550i (1409).JPG


works a treat

k550i (1411).JPG


positioned and bonded on permanently with pu sealant

k550i (1412).JPG


good as new

k550i (1413).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey everyone.
just got back from me 2week drive all round the UK. well exhausted, neck & arm muscles aching, just needed a nap but had an awsome trip.

week 1 started off from the north east, heading up the east coast towards fraserburgh

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (91).JPG
Micra Holiday 2010 1 (93).JPG


then headed west past inverness towards the west coastlines where there are some awsome roads and scenery like the a838. all the upgrades just made sense and was such a thrill to drive through

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (348).JPG
Micra Holiday 2010 1 (344).JPG


stayed somewhere near loch laxford

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (460).JPG


mom spotted a lovely waterfall as we passed some bridge

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (583).JPG


lovely winding fast roads going down towards glasgow

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (627).JPG


after driving through the rain the car was filthy

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (646).JPG


good wash with a wet rag

Micra Holiday 2010 1 (650).JPG


went down past the lakes, into north wales then cut across towards nottingham where i stop by to meetup with v12 and drop off some hub caps he needed. he also gave me a spare tyre pen cos i though bout painting the toyo letters. thx v12 and nice to meet ya

Micra Holiday 2010 2 (77).JPG


headed back home cos next day i would be driving this!

Micra Holiday 2010 2 (157).JPG


weather was getting abit casted over and really chilly as i waited. helmet on, the inner padding kept squeezing my glasses up so had to constantly readjust.
got in, sat soo low. the pedals n wheel were too far but there was no adjustment at all so i had to kinda slouch forward in the seat, i felt like a small kid trying to reach the controls on a big adult go-kart.
i opted for the onboard capture feature but initially had problems gettin it workin, tech guy fixed the loose power cable.

off we go and first off the gear selector range was so close n notchy feeling i couldn't figure if i was in the right gear most the time and was a real distraction and let down between corners.
clutch was real grippy, prob a paddle-type, so setting off and changing gear was embarrasingly rocky at best, i felt like a learner, twas ok at higher speeds.
the civic engine had a heavy flywheel so response was abit slugglish, didn't help my heel'toe so scrapped that technique.
steering was chunky n heavy like a go-kart but wonders about alot at high speeds so had to grip it steady hard.
brakes felt very hard/cold and unassisted, preferred more bite tbh

besides all these little niggles, when i floored it down the straights the supercharger whines away hard and whahey it blasts away at eye watering speeds. tis a rocket. slowly getting better at the controls and building confidence/speed but 5laps quickly went n gone.

Micra Holiday 2010 2 (154).JPG
ariel atom blast.jpg




anyway session over, i drove back home in my car and ooh it feels so much better to drive in terms of clutch feel, throttle response, handling, grip, etc. think i'll stick to my own micra atom for now :p

getting ready for week 2, i cleaned the car and decided to use the tyre pen that v12 gave me. washed wheel

k550i (1416).JPG


learnt a new skill on how to paint each letter utilising the raised lettering lip as an edge guide

k550i (1419).JPG
k550i (1420).JPG


pretty good. looks real sporty

k550i (1423).JPG


set off towards west of wales. stayed at such a lovely country b&b. front left tyre paint rubbed off abit so retouched it with the pen.

Micra Holiday 2010 3 (3).JPG
Micra Holiday 2010 4 (807).JPG


went down to south west of wales where i spotted a nice place for a photoshoot

.jpg


this is my fav photo

Micra Holiday 2010 3 (24).JPG


finished off going to cornwall, chichester then met R-reg-sr in london, lovely lad. been a pleasure chattin to ya for ages. but unfortunately while we were chattin in mac/d, i left the cars ignition & radio on to prevent the alarm self arming cos mom was in the car. after a long chat and checking our cars, Reg set off and when i started my car it didn't have enough juice cos i left ignition on for 2hrs+ which drained all the power, DOHHHH

i quickly ran towards Reg before he reached the exit for a jumpstart, thankgod another car held him up for a sec. at first his jumplead didn't seem to work, maybe a loose lead. so i tried mine and Yes it's alive, cheers Reg.

finally made it back home that night
 
Last edited:

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
these rd trips are a bit of an adventure sound addictive might try one
i was very pleased to meet you and mom and the micra
and it seemed like twenty minutes we were talking but was actualy 2 hrs
liked the car with wats done to it the manifold-gear linkeage bearing mod-elecsunroof-wheels discs the flywheel!!!
we talked about wat it takes to make it worthwhile remaping a un turbed 1275
and you exposed my weak jumper leads
i topped my oil yesterday forgot to put the oil cap back on and ended up with an engine bay rust proof job that i didnt need (not that way anyway)
didnt help me doing motorway speeds engine bay properly flooded now with oil cars still runin though.
thanks again for the visit!
 
didnt help me doing motorway speeds engine bay properly flooded now with oil cars still runin though.
thanks again for the visit!
Any tips on cleaning that BTW? I think I overfilled my oil a while back and it must have overflowed from some vent (probably built to protect the car from thickheads like me doing exactly that ;)) so the block on the alternator side is gunked up and looks a bit minging!
 
What an extensive blog! Was good to meet you and your wee micra... definitely worth painting those toyos up, they look superb!
Glad you had a good Micra Holiday!
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
What an extensive blog! Was good to meet you and your wee micra... definitely worth painting those toyos up, they look superb!
Glad you had a good Micra Holiday!

yep makes a grand difference to the sporty looks. they tend to crack once dry so gonna have to touch em up again.

first time i used the pen and pressing the ink in/out the tip it spewed abit down the sidewall, yikes, but thank god errors could be cleaned with brake cleaner
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
Loved that trip log Polly ! True K11 enthusiast inside. Thanks for sharing it.
Cheers
Seb
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
if urs is like mine with a simple coil return spring, its real easy. just need needle pliers to detach em
View attachment 15260

my other car had a bi-stable spring to help push the clutch down
View attachment 15259

for a thorough job i'd loosen the clutch cable, take out the pedal and oil all the pivots with engine oil and also work engine oil down the cable too.

Bit of a dredge up from the past, just wondering if you noticed any differences in the robustness of the clutch pedal assemblies polly? We have the Helix racing clutch in the car and the standard pedal is slowly bending over towards the centre console due to the large increase in pedal load and thus bending moments. Upon analysis the pedal assy flexes loads, so we're looking for another pedal to re-inforce........figured it good to ask if either was a better option to start with.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Bit of a dredge up from the past, just wondering if you noticed any differences in the robustness of the clutch pedal assemblies polly? We have the Helix racing clutch in the car and the standard pedal is slowly bending over towards the centre console due to the large increase in pedal load and thus bending moments. Upon analysis the pedal assy flexes loads, so we're looking for another pedal to re-inforce........figured it good to ask if either was a better option to start with.

only difference between em is the lighter assisted clutch feel of the bi-stable spring assembly, which i prefer cos the other return spring type felt wayy too heavy for everyday driving in traffic.
but mechanically, the tension of the clutch cable is transferred onto the bulkhead via the same structure design in both assemblies (actually looking back closely they are both the same part, just with different springs), which imo is a little weak in resisting lateral movement so the increased load from a heavier diaphram may be beyond what it was engineered for.
maybe weld a plate on the sides to reinforce it?
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Thanks :) We'll work something out. Everything is custom these days..........that's what you get for pushing the envelope hehe ;)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Thanks :) We'll work something out. Everything is custom these days..........that's what you get for pushing the envelope hehe ;)

aye. whenever major parts are upgraded, all the other parts in the chain usually requires further adaptions or upgrading to cope with the increased stress beyond their original spec (if you want the system to work and last long enough)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey everyone, soz for the lack of updates cos I've been real busy at work and not much done to car as i'm just tryin to enjoy it.

Back at end of May, some of you may have read bout Sulur who needed to replace his damaged engine, so i drove down there with the spare cg13de from me garage, helped install it but in the end it didn't work out. neway we packed everything up and i was about to drive him to a nearby ATM to refund him. went into reverse and moved a metre backwards out the driveway when all of a sudden something went BANG!! the car lurched & rocked back, stalled, gearstick stuck and the clutch pedal dropped to the floor :eek:

What the Heck!? this was the last thing i needed while i was exhausted, had to drive home 180miles away for work the next day.

opened bonnet and saw the clutch bracket had sheared away from the clutch arm due to a broken pin. when the pin broke during mid-engagement, the clutch arm had sprung back so hard that it was jammed up. i couldn't move the arm back enough to reach the cable. oh bumma.

while almost panicing from the thought of having to maybe split open the engine/gearbox to fix the clutch, i looked up a pic of the clutch mechanism on me laptop to see what could be jamming and if the thrust bearing bracket could've seperated from the arm. i jiggled the arm up/down/sideways until eventually i could return it back to reach the cable.

but now the brackets missing the pin so i stuck an allen key though the hole, hook it up to the arm and test if the clutch still works and it felt normal. obviously i couldn't drive home like that so asked sulur if i could use the bracket from his SR that was parked with my spare smoking engine. installed and managed to get home, cautious bout the bracket breaking again.

here's the clutch bracket with the riveted pin sheared off

k550i (1443).JPG


new clutch bracket with broken pin vs Sulurs used bracket that got me home

k550i (1444).JPG


now the shiney new clutch bracket was installed just few months ago so why the heck has it failed? manufacture defect? or poor design? before the failure, the pedal did feel stiff and squeaky earlier that day.

here's the bush on the rivet pin thats worn from years of operation. i don't feel the pin is made secure enough so i'll replace it with a nut/bolt

k550i (1445).JPG


drilled the hole in the broken bracket to 6mm and screwed on a threaded bar & nut to beef it up

k550i (1448).JPG


hooked up and installed. hopefully this never happens again.

k550i (1450).JPG
k550i (1451).JPG


yesterday a relative called me about doin a trackday at Rockingham in August 10th :)
i always wanted to take my car for a blast down the track and after talking to him for ages discussing about the whole thing we agreed on booking the session in advance next week.
website says £179 per car/person but more ppl per booking = discount down to £150
would be awsome if summore micras could join

i'll need to swap back over the original GTIR brake discs so i could get the grooved disc lip machined down by 3mm so it doesn't rub the calipers during the intense track braking.

He also recommended i upgrade my pads from mintex mdb1920 to either Ferodo ds2500 track pads or some Black Diamond Predator Fast Track pads as i'll need all the braking stamina i could get from a fast track.

i found some black diamond FT and EBC Yellowstuff in essex and Ferodo ds2500 on ebay
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=519797
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3936345
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-SUNNY-Mk-III-Hatchback-2-0-GTI-16V-FERODO-Front-/190401449177

anyone used or recommend any for mainly daily commute and occasional track use?
less dust would be nice for these white rims but good cold bite when commuting and high temp fade resistance when on track is more important.
maybe i should use the mintex for daily commutes then swap to high temp trackday pads when i'm at the track?
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
nice to see you back up
sounds like some good plans for the track
single middle wiper mod?

it'll be the first time my car ever see's a track, tis exciting.

dunno bout single wiper, don't fancy leaning over during heavy rain to get a better view and quite like the wipe zone at the mo
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
£150 is still pretty dear paul :eek: we paid £50 at mallory and thats nearby http://www.doughnutters.com/
and dont worry about your brakes, just make sure there,s plenty of fresh air getting to them :grinning:

does sound expensive now that you pointed out mallory but tis just this one time. interested in doin mallory in future, that's cheapas chips

dunno if brakes gettin enough air from the open rota grid rims. i'll just back off when they're fading
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
pads were delivered tday :)

bubblewrapped in a big box
k550i (1452).JPG


contains 4 pads, 4 anti-noise adhesive shims, shim & pad installation guide
k550i (1453).JPG


4 pads with red/pink bed-in coating
k550i (1454).JPG
k550i (1455).JPG


back
k550i (1456).JPG


adhesive anti-noise shims. noticed the peel off says MSC, maybe stands for micra sports club? :p
k550i (1457).JPG


box labelling
k550i (1458).JPG
k550i (1459).JPG


first thing to do is to install the old discs then get the grooved disc machined before installing & bedding the new pads in
 
Last edited:
Top