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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
But what ahhh. So alloy ones are weaker but Paul's running them. I wanted to buy some so I think I worrying about going round a corner and the wheels come off haha. So what still confused sorry guys.
no lets clarify chris:
wheel nuts made from steel that's used for alloy wheels (think their taper angle differs from wheel nuts used for pressed steel wheels) are stronger, safer, cheaper

wheel nuts made from alu alloy or other exotic materials that's used for alloy wheels might be a bit lighter but are too expensive, easier to cross thread during fitting and torquing.
alot of disadvantages outweighing the irrelevant benefits
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
no lets clarify chris:
wheel nuts made from steel that's used for alloy wheels (think their taper angle differs from wheel nuts used for pressed steel wheels) are stronger, safer, cheaper

wheel nuts made from alu alloy or other exotic materials that's used for alloy wheels might be a bit lighter but are too expensive, easier to cross thread during fitting and torquing.
alot of disadvantages outweighing the irrelevant benefits
Ohhhh I get it now. I have never really had alloys. I never knew you had different bolts. Good job I now know lol. Ta for explaining lol.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the copper wideband heatsink has vibrated itself to pieces recently due to the fin cuts creating stress fractures

DSC08450.JPG


so ordered a round copper plate, no cuts to induce any fractures

DSC08449.JPG


drilled hole

DSC08451.JPG


fits nicely

DSC08452.JPG
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
for a long time I've always noticed an occasional slight knock at the rear left side whenever I drive over uneven ground such as turning into the back alley from the cambered street tarmac. it must be the swaybar droplinks so I purchased a new pair from ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150799675477?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

they don't look exactly like in the pic but close enough

DSC08453.JPG


these rely on an allen head to hold the shaft (guarantee in the rusty future they will round off)

DSC08455.JPG
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the joint will be initially stuck cos they've been sitting around for ages so you have to nudge them loose and move it around to work the grease back into the joint.
wondering if there's any grease, I removed the boot and yup there's grease

DSC08457.JPG


cos the allen head will round off, plus I won't be able to fit an allen key between the swaybar and the lower trailing arm anyway, I grinded both sides of the inner shaft on the bench grinder to fit a 12mm spanner like on the originals

DSC08458.JPG


removing old rusty drop links

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the rear left was prob knocking cos the rubber boot had torn and the inside dried n wore away looser

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new and old

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the sway bar once again rusty and joint seized

DSC08464.JPG


once again wirebrush, prime, paint & laquer the bar

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all sorts of grease, oils etc I previously tried have always dried up and seizes, so gonna try graphite powder this time

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fitted and moving smoothly

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
that slight knock in the rear left still there on specific occasions, not always. tis similar noise to when my front strut top nuts are loose and they knock during damper rebound over speed bumps but the rear strut nuts are secure. tried applying the handbrake while on the move to create drag on the rear caliper incase its a loose rear caliper guide pin..nope still knocks slightly on bumpy corners. hmm need more investigation.

also I'm starting to get a constant belt squeal above 1500rpm.
removed the alternator belt and drive down the road, nope still squeeks so its not the alternator or tensioner. the alternator tensioner bearing has abit of play so may need replacing imo.

the auxilary tensioner seems in good order, spins smoothly n no bearing play, oiled the bearing abit to be sure its not dry.
with the engine idling, I loosen the aux tensioner axle nut and it squeals when I blip above 1500rpm (like fan belt slip).
so I move the pulley up to increase belt tension but it still squeals.
when I tighten up the tension pulley axle nut the squeal reduces abit but still there.

wonder if its the tension pulley (cos the squeal gets quieter from tightening the axle nut) or if its the water pump bearing squealing under tension (although tightening/loosening the aux belt tensioner made no difference)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
k tonight its been squealing constantly warm or cold, needs fixing.
sprayed wd40 behind the waterpump pulley, no change.
sprayed wd40 on the tensioner pulley axle, gets quiet briefly but then few yards down the road to squeals again.
so removed the pulley and oiled the bearing with thin wd40 rather than thick engine oil, reassembled.
its running alot quieter but can still hear a very faint amount driving through the streets.

I think both belt tensioners actually need replacing
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
k tonight its been squealing constantly warm or cold, needs fixing.
sprayed wd40 behind the waterpump pulley, no change.
sprayed wd40 on the tensioner pulley axle, gets quiet briefly but then few yards down the road to squeals again.
so removed the pulley and oiled the bearing with thin wd40 rather than thick engine oil, reassembled.
its running alot quieter but can still hear a very faint amount driving through the streets.

I think both belt tensioners actually need replacing
Ball bearings need to be packed with grease, all wd40 will do is flush what little grease there is left in it out and accelerate wear. If it's a sealed bearing then just replace the bearing.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yeah its a sealed bearing. well it started quiet this morning and then continued squealing above 1500rpm few yards down the road:rolleyes:

a quick look on ebay for the tensioner and can't find any :/

found on google images this is the auxilary idler pulley I need OE 11927-4F115


seems the bearing is sealed within the pulley that's riveted together.

the only source for the pulley is from amazon for $25 abroad + shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Pulley-Idler-Oem-11927-4F115/dp/B00CUE0AJ0

I think alternatively I could prob grind open the pulley to extract the bearing, find a replacement from bearing shop and nut&bolt the pulley back together?
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
How is it retained, is does it have a lip both sides as shown in the picture?
Edit: If it is and the 2 halves are riveted together, I'd drill out the rivets to free it, then use a nut and bolt to hold it back together again, assuming there is clearance
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aye, although local one looks like running out of prefaces, unknown pulley condition.
my pulley spins freely in the hand fine but only squeals once above 1500rpm under tension so dunno how I'd check the used pulley before purchase.
and since a used pulley would be partially worn anyway, I may as well try to replace mine with new bearings to be sure.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok I'll try to replace the bearings first (from either RS or local bearing shop).
if it doesn't work then I'll either check the scrappys or pay chris to post some up.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so here's an auxilary belt idler pulley

DSC08471.JPG


first grind off the 2 rivet lips on both sides that is holding the pulley together

DSC08472.JPG


then split the pulley apart

DSC08473.JPG
DSC08474.JPG


push the bearing out the other cap

DSC08475.JPG
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the bearing is an SKF 6301 2RS1
37x12x12mm

DSC08477.JPG
DSC08479.JPG


took the alternator idler off to check if that uses the same bearing too

DSC08480.JPG
DSC08481.JPG
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the pulley

DSC08485.JPG
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that uses a NSK 6301DULX

DSC08488.JPG


and appears to be exactly the same

DSC08483.JPG
DSC08484.JPG


so I need two 6301 rubber sealed deep groove ball bearings

looked at simplybearings.co.uk and they have a budget 63012RS for £2.69ex vat
9.7kN dynamic load, 4.2kN static load, 20k rpm in grease

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p170033/63012RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 12x37x12mm/product_info.html

they also have the genuine SKF 6301 2RS1 for a whopping £25.68ex vat!
but only handles 8.19kN dynamic, 4.05kN static, 14k rpm. why would I buy this one?

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p170033/63012RS Budget Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 12x37x12mm/product_info.html

was thinking of getting it at the local bearing shop tomorrow at lunch but don't have the time to drive around tbh so gonna reassemble these pulleys and order a pair of budget bearings to be delivered soon and then just replace em.

£8.26 for two bearings delivered, not bad compared to £30-60 for one friggin pulley from anywhere else.
 
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Enuo

Glorified Electrician
so here's an auxilary belt idler pulley



first grind off the 2 rivet lips on both sides that is holding the pulley together



then split the pulley apart



push the bearing out the other cap



the bearing is an SKF 6301 2RS1
37x12x12mm



took the alternator idler off to check if that uses the same bearing too



the pulley



that uses a NSK 6301DULX



and appears to be exactly the same



so I need two 6301 rubber sealed deep groove ball bearings

looked at simplybearings.co.uk and they have a budget 63012RS for £2.69ex vat
9.7kN dynamic load, 4.2kN static load, 20k rpm in grease

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p1...ove+Ball+Bearing+12x37x12mm/product_info.html

they also have the genuine SKF 6301 2RS1 for a whopping £25.68ex vat!
but only handles 8.19kN dynamic, 4.05kN static, 14k rpm. why would I buy this one?

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p1...ove+Ball+Bearing+12x37x12mm/product_info.html

was thinking of getting it at the local bearing shop tomorrow at lunch but don't have the time to drive around tbh so gonna reassemble these pulleys and order a pair of budget bearings to be delivered soon and then just replace em.

£8.26 for two bearings delivered, not bad compared to £30-60 for one friggin pulley from anywhere else.
You won't need SKF bearings, they're so expensive because they are made to ridiculously tight tolerances for CNC machines and the like, the bigger one even have a little laser engraving to mark the point of maximum eccentricity!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well def won't need to pay that much premium for that much tolerance on just a pulley.
ordered the budget bearing over the next few days.

pulley reassembled and bolted together, aligned the hex so it clears the center cap

DSC08489.JPG
DSC08490.JPG


fitted

DSC08491.JPG


still squeals on the move.
if the new bearing replacement doesn't silence it then the next culprit is the water pump but that can be swapped with a spare once I remove the engine to stretch the ring expander.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
If wd40 quietened it slightly then is def the bearings surely?
the thin oil must've penetrated deeper into the bearing cos I just dunked the bearing into a cup of gear oil before reassembly and yet still squeals the same as before, prob too thick to get past the seal.

anyway it'll be replaced soon to find out
 
nice work woth the bearing :) strange that it still makes noise. you dont have powersteering? as i dont see it in the pics, mine squeeked at bit once but after greasing it, it was gone too. hmm water pump is a mess to get out when the engine is still in.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
nice work woth the bearing :) strange that it still makes noise. you dont have powersteering? as i dont see it in the pics, mine squeeked at bit once but after greasing it, it was gone too. hmm water pump is a mess to get out when the engine is still in.
I have PAS, tis just hidden behind the idler pulley in the last pic.
cant grease em cos its sealed. both bearings actually have abit of play so kinda worn. new ones on the way.
this morning its squealing constantly.
if its water pump I'll leave it till the engines out.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I was hoping to wait for h701 to pop over soon to grab the engine and take a trip round the place before setting the car to sleep n take the forged engine apart to fix the rings but I think I really need to begin work on the engine by next week (despite having no time off from work) cos jae and mot is getting closer and the check list is still long
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
as she was squealing tday, I removed the idler pulley cover shield to expose the bearing face so I can spray wd40 directly into the bearing.
when I sprayed it, it gets quiet for awhile but soon gradually squeals again so it's most likely a worn idler bearing.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new pair of 6301 2RS bearings made by KG arrived

DSC08492.JPG
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removed the old bearing

DSC08497.JPG


tapped the new ones on with socket & hammer, should've squeezed it on with the vice as I learned later

DSC08498.JPG
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alternator pulley off

DSC08500.JPG


removing this bearing was abit harder than usual, very stuck on

DSC08501.JPG


removed the rubber cover before blowing flames at it, still would've hammer off

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didn't wanna risk warping n bending the wheel so found two close fitting sockets to the edge of the bearing (this old front caliper piston was perfect size)
and in the end rather than trying to heat and "shock" the bearing out with a hammer, the solution was just pure brute force on the vice with an extension bar applying more squeeze till it pops through

DSC08503.JPG


wirebrush the hole clean, lube the outer race, and squeeze the bearing in with the vice, sockets & extension pole in one smooth movement

DSC08504.JPG


pulleys fitted but its 11pm so have to wait till the morning to check it

DSC08505.JPG
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
she always squeals the first 10mins whilst cold/cool but at 20min when cruising down the motorway it stops, prob the 3krpm & heat has warmed up some bearing and spins better.

sprayed wd40 at the water pump and also on the new idler bearings but no change. has to either be the water or PAS pump
 
Hi Polly, quick question. I'm trying to fix/clean out my idle control valve and been told you knew the setting on datascan to get it to open up so I can clean it without manually dismantling it and making a faff? Any help you can offer is appreciated :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Simple check. Pop the PAS belt off if you can
I've already popped the alternator belt off to eliminate the alternator & tensioner so there's only the auxilary belt left working.

popping both the alternator and auxilary belt off wouldn't eliminate anything cos the PAS & water pump won't be driven hence obviously won't squeal.

unless u mean fit a non-PAS belt & tensioner to just run the water pump and eliminate the PAS end? which I can't do cos I don't have any.

so I'll be replacing the water pump once the engines out. if it still squeals then the only cause left is the PAS pump.
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
Intro

Hey everyone
I’m Paul and here’s a story bout the journey with my micra.


It starts with a 1998 k11 1.3 slx that’s been with the family since new. It had NATS, electric windows, body coloured bumpers & wings, 13” nissan primera alloys, airbag, abs, adjustable headlight angle, rear wiper, sunroof and PAS.

My sister had it for few more years until in 2006 she needed something bigger and with less faults cos it was drinking fuel, misfiring, uneconomical repair bills etc. She had an eye on a ford focus but the garage said they’ll only give £200 part exchange for the micra.

Now, I’ve had me licence since 2003 and have yet to get my first car. Upon hearing bout her quote I thought I couldn’t just let the oppurtunity go since I know the cars history, would be cheap to run and was great to drive cos I learnt to drive in it in 2003 between driving lessons when it was me sisters. £200 sounded like a bargain so I agreed to buy it.
Jesus Paul... Can you remember writing this? How many posts later :) and the original car
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hi Polly, quick question. I'm trying to fix/clean out my idle control valve and been told you knew the setting on datascan to get it to open up so I can clean it without manually dismantling it and making a faff? Any help you can offer is appreciated :)
if you have any diagnostic software that can temporarily override the IACV like datascan, imo you should first clean and free up the valve mechanism and then calibrate the IACV with datascan so it's physically shut when the value says zero.

I've updated my guide here to include cleaning and adjusting the IACV.

http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Jesus Paul... Can you remember writing this? How many posts later :) and the original car
I remember the many eye-straining weeks it took just to write the whole of that first page 1, upload hundreds of pics and attaching each pic. that was donkeys years ago
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
squealling really bad now, like all the time and no amount of wd40 near any of the pulleys work.

will get new belts and may as well be a new pump too and I'll begin disassembly once I have time in the weekend
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok I tried spraying afew areas and think I located the cause.

sprayed the waterpump axle, nope
the PAS axle, nope
the flat outer side of the auxilary belt, nope
the ribbed inner side of the auxilary belt, yep it goes quiet and then afew awhile it slowly squeals again (prob the wd40 evaporated). spray more on the ribs and it goes away again.

no cracks on the belt or ribs but I think the belt might be worn or glazed, so needs replacing but least I know where to spray to shut her up when driving through town.
 
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