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PollyMobiles Rebuild

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
i think you,ll find that most k11 load valves have seized up long ago chris, and the members that lock up have it seized in the open position, my white car does,nt lock up, and here,s the valve on the red car (both pistons seized)

View attachment 22549

I'll check mine tomorrow just for kicks, will be interesting to see if it's seized before throwing it in the ever growing junk pile ;)
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
scrap yard job mate?

No bin, as it's not needed. I run individual master cylinders with bias box and remote dash adjustment.

IMG_1212.JPG
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
Paul any recommendations for dismantling the callipers. Did you throw up a guide. I just pulled the piston out and cleaned everything up. Is there a more suited way?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Paul any recommendations for dismantling the callipers. Did you throw up a guide. I just pulled the piston out and cleaned everything up. Is there a more suited way?

front and/or rear?

fronts easy enough. pistons out, assess and replace anything that's not perfect or compromised. fitting the dust boot is a faff on

rears. unscrew the piston out, assess condition of piston & seals. again reinstalling that dust boot is a real faff
to disassemble the rear caliper handbrake mech will require a special modded tool to remove the retaining c-clip, which I posted a pic off on ur blog.

some info bout the insides are on this page
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-2#post-391187
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
front and/or rear?

fronts easy enough. pistons out, assess and replace anything that's not perfect or compromised. fitting the dust boot is a faff on

rears. unscrew the piston out, assess condition of piston & seals. again reinstalling that dust boot is a real faff
to disassemble the rear caliper handbrake mech will require a special modded tool to remove the retaining c-clip, which I posted a pic off on ur blog.

some info bout the insides are on this page
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-2#post-391187
ok, I am sure I will be fine, managed the first so I think we will be ok, I will have to get some clip tools to fashion then tomorrow
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
dsc01883copy.jpg
Right so to remove the handbrake arm, do you need to get to the c-clip to the bottom of the piston retraction shaft?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Right so to remove the handbrake arm, do you need to get to the c-clip to the bottom of the piston retraction shaft?

yup
-first unbolt the external arm return spring to unload the arm
-remove piston
-apply some pressure on top of the spring cap thing (a small long socket & extension?) to push down against the coil spring and releave the force off the c-clip
-then the tricky bit where you need the special tool to slide deep down the narrow gap bore and able to squeeze n slide the big c-clip out
-once the clips out, the rest of the mechanism assembly pops out (right of pic) and then the handbrake arm can be released (left of pic)

requires patience :)
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
yup
-first unbolt the external arm return spring to unload the arm
-remove piston
-apply some pressure on top of the spring cap thing (a small long socket & extension?) to push down against the coil spring and releave the force off the c-clip
-then the tricky bit where you need the special tool to slide deep down the narrow gap bore and able to squeeze n slide the big c-clip out
-once the clips out, the rest of the mechanism assembly pops out (right of pic) and then the handbrake arm can be released (left of pic)

requires patience :)
What grease did you use and for where mate ?


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
What grease did you use and for where mate ?

handbrake cam mech area - just general lithium grease

guide pins - general grease or engine oil. copper grease or wd40 tended to dry out or bind the pins after awhile. some ppl like ericthecarguy suggests silicone paste cos its less likely to react with or swell up the rubber bits n seals. never tried yet or who sells it?

pad clips n backing - very light smear copper grease
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
typical lazy british garages again.
phoned the guy up bout me bearings, said he'll find out n call me back. never did:rolleyes:

last chance tomorrow or I go somewhere else
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
i think you,ll find that most k11 load valves have seized up long ago chris, and the members that lock up have it seized in the open position, my white car does,nt lock up, and here,s the valve on the red car (both pistons seized)

Mines still fine :D well my second one as the first one was rusted up.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
bearing finally arrives but costs £41. I'm sure last year it was bout £22 amongst the other bearings in the order. bah fookitall

mechanic also said he tends to threadlock low torqued bolts including the bigends so will def do that then

DSC08293.JPG
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right now my work load is gonna be ludicrous in the coming days so I'll have no time or energy to fit em. best chance is the weekend
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
oh fk it lets allow afew hrs for car time.

bearings #1 & 4 removed

DSC08295.JPG


tried to dry off the bigend threads but they only get abit oily again later with my oily fingers when I fit the bearings.
fitting the new bearings in a tight confines is a right pita.
bearings & con rod on

big end caps fitted, nuts thread locked and torqued to 20nm (should be 15nm but wrench only worked from 20nm) and then 45deg, which again was all a real pita in a tight space with a massive wrench (shoulda really removed the wheels)

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a closer look at the damaged bearings.
the shells on the LH of each cyl is the big end cap (vacuum) while the RH is the con rod side (compression)

DSC08302.JPG
DSC08303.JPG


with the brief few secs of loose bearings and lack of oil pressure in that area, the con rod shells were bashing against the journals real hard rubbing metal to metal. just saved the worst case in time
 
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SirChris

Educated Bodger
You are a lucky boy my friend. When I did my big ends I just over torqued them a tad. Plus the


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SirChris

Educated Bodger
Threads were none dry. I used lf under on the bearings... We shall see the result of that bodge when I tear the engine apart.


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SirChris

Educated Bodger
Bone.. Sorry about the multiple post I cannot edit on the iPad for some reason


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well progress here is painfully slow cos of work.

just been working my butt off at work to get some demo's and presentation ready for this big competition conference thingy, had a slight technical hitch and didn't win in the end which was disappointing n drops the mood :( meh
tday development of our demo's continue on and been approved to do our 1st paid client work so my workload isn't getting easier.

btw incase ppl wonder what I do and whats been holding up my cars progress so much,
I'm a 3D dynamic development specialist (designing, modelling, programming, and building 3D apps) for a new company called Spearhead Interactive started back in feb, who provides online 3D services n solutions for businesses, educational and public sectors that can be played on websites or mobile devices.

I make cool 3D apps that can be used for:

product visualisation (think 3D product viewer on websites)


assembly & training manuals/tools (think 3D flat-pack manuals, or even a 3D parts/suppliers database like a 3D nissan4u.com for Nissan),


interactive architectural modelling & BIM tool (visually toggle through and extract info about every bit of a building and even control smart systems like heating/lighting remotely)


they're online and u can play with em from a pc browser
http://spearheadinteractive.com/Gallery

or for an android device, search for "spearhead interactive" in the play store.

back to my car, tonight had some time for the car so began to clean the windage tray threads, bolt the rear tray on with threadlock but I've ran out of threadlock for the front tray so that's gonna have to wait till tomorrow :( sucks

DSC08308.JPG
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted the front tray

DSC08315.JPG


drilled out the trapdoor rivets

DSC08309.JPG


abit tricky removing it from the sump cos the sealant was doing a good job bonding it together so after peeling it off with a screwdriver I was able to pull the assembly out

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flushed clean the sump n trapdoor with carb cleaner

DSC08311.JPG


riveted back on

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resealed

DSC08313.JPG
DSC08314.JPG


letting that dry now.
next task tomorrow is to straighten up the lip of the sump where I've wedged the screwdriver to pry it off, clean both faces, resealant and bolt the sump up then hook everything back up
 
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SirChris

Educated Bodger
Sry let me phrase that stain... Bitch :D is it running and happy.. Oil out the bum?


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Its running alright with nothing loose now but the sump gasket is leaking quite abit and she smokes abit mostly on power, pistons getting abit drier.

Only able to cover 75m last night and is in the 100% Wot high rpm phase of the break in. I'm at the fookit point where if its gonna break it woulda happened by now so bugga it

Setting more miles tday n see how it is at 1000m
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
guys please excuse my infuriated emotions at this time but its not going well and i'm at a critical point of my life of close to giving up :(
yes I've seen n heard alot of this giving up situation happening to other members before but this one hits home

will report back later but to summerise,
she still smokes after 140m,
cylinders still wet,
compression at a steady 10.9 11.2 11.4 10.9 bars
the camera under the engine shows that there's a bad sump seal so she's literally RAINING oil all over the place badly,
the battery fuse also kept blowing for some reason, something is shorting, so I had no electrical power other than ECU which made driving home interesting.

I'm really angry, I don't trust the engine nor the electrics

and dunno what to do now cos whichever option I choose:
  • insure moms car another year and cancel mine,
  • buy & insure another normal k11 for work,
  • give up everything,
  • try fix the forged engine leak,
  • fix the stock engine and swap over,
  • sell all engines to buy one working used cg13de,
etc etc
will require time, money and alot of effort while I'm also struggling with the same three things at work :(

require some expert opinion bout if this smoking issue and wet cylinder at 140m will improve? to justify carrying on n fix the sump leak or if its game over for the damn forged pistons n change plans

full details coming up when I can be bothered
 

Stani1029

Club Member
I'm gutted for you Paul, I really hope the smoking issue will stop but reading many builds 9/10 times there's an issue. Is there anything you think it could be? The rings were brand new eh?
 
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