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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
slowly fitting everything on and getting closer

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just have to clean n bolt up the hubs, brakes, IC pipes, redo boost lines, fill engine & gear oil and she's ready to fire

gotta take a little break from the heat tday
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
test fitted the BBS alloys with R888 on the front hubs and oh dear, at full droop the increased offset makes it poke out alot. its gonna foul the arches so i'll have to increase the camber alot before these can be used and pretty certain the suspension will compress even more when cornering with the masssive grip so the susp will need retuning

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can't be certain its centred

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almost complete. tis as far as I'll take it tday. finish off tomorrow

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pollyp

pollyp

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rerouted the boost pressure switch straight to the turbo WG line to improve response time rather than from the manifold line

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completed bay

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gave her a good wash after 4 months of filth

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uploading video
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this was the initial startup

primed the oil, changed ecu map to the stock engine, forgot to connect the dizzy :p but eventually got it going and it runs good


next is to test drive the car after standing for 4mths. had to adjust to the brutal clutch and raw driving interface (driving moms 307 this long softened me abit) but once it gets going its good :cool:


was running low on coolant so pick more up from dealers. back home i could see the rad return pipe was leaking so tightened it up and stopped the leak. no issues with oil starvation or foaming throughout the revs so the oil baffle n windage tray working nicely

there we go, she's back and in time for JAE :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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I'm abit concerned that my induction pipes get abit hot especially when idling and not moving cos my turbo inlet pipe goes over the mani and the turbo inlet & outlet pipes are directly exposed to the radiant heat of the turbo and the IC oulet pipe is near the outlet of the hot rad fan.

i found this really fantastic website www.max-boost.co.uk with loadsa info about all aspects of a turboed engine and under turbo - pipes it takes bout insulating the pipes with like thermal underlay etc
http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/intake/pipes.htm

tried searching for some insulated heat reflective underlay and the closest i found was some 5mm Novostrat sonic gold underlay sheet thats £29-34 a roll

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http://www.carpet-underlay-shop.co.uk/novostrat-comfort-gold-5mm-15sqm-rolls-1616-p.asp
https://www.buy-carpet-underlay.co....e_flooring_underlay/novostrat_sonic_gold.html

but some forums saying insulating the pipe maybe bad cos it'd keep in heat n prevent it from being cooled by the airstream, although tbh what about the air travelling 'through' the pipe and the hot radiant heat blasting from the nearby turbo?

next suggestion was heat reflective tape. i thought there must be something more cost effective and thought what bout those emergency thermal blankets that ppl wrap round to prevent body heat loss?
£4 from GoOutdoors

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but hang on thats just Alu foil right? well why don't i just wrap my pipes in readily available kitchen foil to just try reflect the heat away? :p
try that next
 
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Stani1029

Club Member
Ive bought the reflective tape, which ill be putting on the custom I/C pipes when i have them made. Im sure youll let us know how the tin foil works
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
I've had the adhesive heat tape stuff on the induction pipes...im assuming it must have done something but I never tested any temp reading so cant say how effective the tape is vs unprotected pipes.

Right now im running the pipes uncovered (as i needed to redo the layout and didnt have enough tape to redo them) and even though the manifold is chucking out alot of heat and the main pipes run infront of the rad (its the IC hot side anyway), because they are in air flow they seem to always be cold. As you mentioned it should also allow any heat inside to escape.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so in bluepeter style here's one I made earlier :p just need the egg carton for the rocket nozzles lol

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installed

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took her out for a blast and included few mins stuck in traffic.

even with the wave of intense heat radiating from the manifold, the pipes are now stone cold :)
it works perfectly at preventing any external heat sources from heating the pipe walls while the constant stream of cooler air rushing through inside is keeping the pipe cool. coupled with the unheated TB and insulated inlet mani it should help provide a cooler denser charged air into the engine :)

went to Go Outdoors and got my sleepin bag £20, basic first aid kit just incase and a £4 thermal blanket to replace the fragile kitchen foil

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went to b&q for some foil tape and found a roll of radiator foil which has an insulation layer to stop conduction with a reflective top foil to reflect the infrared from the manifold...only to find back at home my mom already has some in the house doh :rolleyes: it has a wrinkly texture rather than the smooth foil i just brought but its not important, gonna cut it into strips to wrap round the pipe anyway.

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also found dads 250w inverter so i can use my spare battery to power the charger for the portable dvd player I'll be placing in the car rather than pull out a long extension cable

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the bare stainless turbo to IC piping was getting abit stained so gave it a wirebrush n lick of paint

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cut n rolled strips of the insulating reflective sheet

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began wrapping the pipes

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all the pipes are wrapped :cool:

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i'll take a pic of it all tomorrow cos its too dark but it looks class :)

while underneath i did notice the region around the rear main seal is leaking oil abit. it's not major so I'll leave it
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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my router decided to fail so had to go out to buy a new one

here's the fitted insulated pipes

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i found that when I've been driving on roads above 50mph the top pipe above the mani remains cool to touch but when I've only been driving around town below 30 the manifold heat hangs at the top of the bonnet and warms up the turbo inlet pipes especially the unshielded silicone bends but the later sections of the IC (where the charged air has flowed through the IC and cooled down) and post IC pipes remains cool so i think the pre-turbo pipes are nothing to worry bout
 
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my router decided to fail so had to go out to buy a new one

here's the fitted insulated pipes



i found that when I've been driving on roads above 50mph the top pipe above the mani remains cool to touch but when I've only been driving around town below 30 the manifold heat hangs at the top of the bonnet and warms up the turbo inlet pipes especially the unshielded silicone bends but the later sections of the IC (where the charged air has flowed through the IC and cooled down) and post IC pipes remains cool so i think the pre-turbo pipes are nothing to worry bout
Nice work as always Polly glad everything is back up and running :)

The bonnet forms a tight fit against the water seal on the top of the bulkhead, a long slit & a few holes in the bonnets lower edge helped alot for me as you have said above at town driving speeds the heat is trapped.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Nice work as always Polly glad everything is back up and running :)

The bonnet forms a tight fit against the water seal on the top of the bulkhead, a long slit & a few holes in the bonnets lower edge helped alot for me as you have said above at town driving speeds the heat is trapped.
thx its a relief its all workin

the rear of my bonnets raised up so the built up heat can escape. not sure if it helps at speed cos i think the area around the wipers usually under +ve pressure which also helps force air into the cabin inlet. without a rough wool flow testing at speed i dunno if its either sucking the hot air out and improving engine bay flow? or actually pushing the hot air back in the wrong way?

if the area above the turbo was getting really hot when stationary in hot weather for long periods maybe some vents on the front end of the bonnet above that section will allow heat to escape more easily (but personally don't fancy ruining the subtle look) or I could add a manually activated fan in front of the turbo region so in traffic or before shutting off I can use the fan to cool and blow the heat away out the raised bonnet?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
k bit of a change of schedule plan

originally i was gonna goto jae then begin my 2 weeks roadtrip but just been told my parents also goin on holiday from 12th sept so no one's at home.

instead what I'll be doing is start my roadtrip alot earlier like 27th aug next week (where i'll first be taking my forged engine down to me cousin in cardiff to be checked n machined and try retweak the turbo map to pass MOT emissions), drive round the UK and end the trip at JAE last (should prob drop off home the day before to clean n prep the car eh).
that way i'd have my break first and my parents can continue their holiday plans with me at home.
 
thx its a relief its all workin

the rear of my bonnets raised up so the built up heat can escape. not sure if it helps at speed cos i think the area around the wipers usually under +ve pressure which also helps force air into the cabin inlet. without a rough wool flow testing at speed i dunno if its either sucking the hot air out and improving engine bay flow? or actually pushing the hot air back in the wrong way?

if the area above the turbo was getting really hot when stationary in hot weather for long periods maybe some vents on the front end of the bonnet above that section will allow heat to escape more easily (but personally don't fancy ruining the subtle look) or I could add a manually activated fan in front of the turbo region so in traffic or before shutting off I can use the fan to cool and blow the heat away out the raised bonnet?
BIG HOOD SHCOOP!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
erm no. abit chavy for me.
A scoop would do the opposite of what I need n send +ve pressure into the engine bay ruining the airflow of the radiators etc
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
had an early knock at the door and twas my new air filter

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noticed this rubber seal moves about quite loosely and can't be good for keep unfiltered air out

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my old filter has a much better quality seal design

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underneath both filters, the new filter has a narrower opening

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the new filter uses straight vertical pleats while the old one has a slight twist

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the differences in how the metal pieces are made and the quality is clear. the previous filter has been rolled cleanly into shape and all the edges are precise n smooth while the new cheaper filter has been bluntly stamped out of sheet roll with large fillets and slightly wobbly lip edges where its been bent

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old vs new seal. shame i could'nt swap em cos the old seals too large

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so instead i bonded the seal to the body

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much better

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
whats the plan with your driving holiday where abouts are the destinations ??
havent really planned it. first stop is obviously to my cousin in cardiff to tune my emissions and machine the forged engine bore. then the roadtrip will be wherever i randomly point my satnav to, just like my very first solo roadtrip with pollymobile 1.

this time i have a tent i can camp in = more freedom to continue driving through the evening until it begins to get dark and then setup camp somewhere.
dunno how i'm suppose to find a place to camp? (just any deserted field? parking? or book a camp site?)

booking either a campsite or B&B will prob have a check-in point (i usually do it by 5pm)

if the camping in any field didn't work out or if booking a camp site costs the same as a B&B then I could always resort to a comfy local B&B :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
another point bout the filter is the inner lip is fully tucked on the old filter while the cheap pressed filter is partially tucked so the lip actually curves back inwards but is a minor detail

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looks nicer

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tdays been alot of minor fixes. the paper i laid down last night reveals a small oil drip from around where the gearbox joins the engine and some may have trickled along and down the sump. but the biggest pool is green coolant

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feeling under the pipes i traced it to the coolant return hose so sand it smooth n reclamped it tight, seemed to work

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recently i noticed what sounded like a loose metal washer and a clunk and the gearstick clunks whenever i reverse the car and decelerate down the gears. i thought it was the LSD unlocking or the lsd ramp was clunking.
but the clunk was unusual, then on a drive along the motorway i heard something hit along the exhaust, look back and saw some object flying off the road behind, wth was that?
back home i was parking her in the garage when by pure chance i spotted a nut on the alley, i recognised it as the rear mount nut.

checked underneath and oops, the nut had vibrated off in the alley and the big washer had escaped along the motorway :/

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replaced with an offset washer I removed from the bench grinder and really tightened that nut up. test drive confirmed it feels much better n precise now with no clunking

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another loose bolt, this one was too long for the hole so fitted a shorter one.

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at the back of the engine i noticed the bottom of the coolant return pipe was dripping oil? tracing it up to the engine cover. this cover gasket tends to leak oil often. tightened up the cover bolts but there's still some oil drips down below. need more time to see if the engine covers stopped leaking.

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the plastic sunroof drip tray tends to vibrate n resonate badly when going over bumps or at a certain rpm, which maybe the cause of the loud rattle in the cabin cam, so zip tied that

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thats n idea. dya know whats involved? like how to get over, ferry costs, 98ron fuel?
No problem mate its were i live :) Boat would be about £180 return from either Heysham or Liverpool so you would need to get to either port.. sailings are normally twice a day from either Heysham takes 4 hours liverpool takes about 2 1/2, i have only ever found 97ron fuel to be honest mate suppose you could always drop a little octane booster in if needs be..

Id offer you a place to kip if we had any room but theres loads of places to stay & your carnt nock to food and drink!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
No problem mate its were i live :) Boat would be about £180 return from either Heysham or Liverpool so you would need to get to either port.. sailings are normally twice a day from either Heysham takes 4 hours liverpool takes about 2 1/2, i have only ever found 97ron fuel to be honest mate suppose you could always drop a little octane booster in if needs be..

Id offer you a place to kip if we had any room but theres loads of places to stay & your carnt nock to food and drink!
this sounds like a gr8 idea. found some info on wikitravel.

my first day will be at cardiff then maybe go down see mike in devon then up around wales then catch the liverpool ferry over to douglas? we could meet up? have abit of a blast tour over few days, ferry back over n head towards my fav NW scotland.

maybe 97ron will be ok? it's not like i'm going on a track with long WOT. might check with Ed. I could use the octane boost i have but i think that stuff has lead or summit and ruins the sensors n plugs (prob remove the wideband in which case).

yeah prob get a b&b there or camp?

could ya pm me ur contact so I could txt ya when I'm heading over?
 
this sounds like a gr8 idea. found some info on wikitravel.

my first day will be at cardiff then maybe go down see mike in devon then up around wales then catch the liverpool ferry over to douglas? we could meet up? have abit of a blast tour over few days, ferry back over n head towards my fav NW scotland.

maybe 97ron will be ok? it's not like i'm going on a track with long WOT. might check with Ed. I could use the octane boost i have but i think that stuff has lead or summit and ruins the sensors n plugs (prob remove the wideband in which case).

yeah prob get a b&b there or camp?

could ya pm me ur contact so I could txt ya when I'm heading over?
Would be glad to meet up mate no problem il send you my details later on, do you know roughly when this would be? I think my car would still be in bits over the next few weeks but im more than happy to show you around the island (especially the TT course!) :) theres lots a campsite & nice B&B's id see what the weather was due to be like though first lol
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Would be glad to meet up mate no problem il send you my details later on, do you know roughly when this would be? I think my car would still be in bits over the next few weeks but im more than happy to show you around the island (especially the TT course!) :) theres lots a campsite & nice B&B's id see what the weather was due to be like though first lol
fab. will be nice to have a co-driver cos i've no idea bout the place and never driven round it virtually. fingers x weathers ok. i'm estimating maybe wed/thurs? could i just buy the ferry tickets there or do i have to book in advance?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was wiping off the residue oil leak round the engine cover when i was looking around n spotted another sign of oil from the timing chain side of the cover till I noticed it's actually cracked badly? wtf didn't see that before, did i tighten it too much? aw well gotta clean n repaint the spare cover

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cover off and blimey that doesn't look good, something metal has actually striked against the inside of the cover to crack it. i thought it was sounding abit like a diesel tday

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looked at the engine and OOOMMMMGGGG HOLY MUTH F"@~?>""^%"£"*%!!! :eek:
arghhhhh stupid stupid stupid!:mad: I knew there was summing i forgot to tighten the next morning i was rebuilding this engine. what a douchebag me

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thank god the bolt was prevented by the cover from fully dropping and causing catastrophic epic failure

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the threads all munched up, prob safer to just swap the cams from the spare engine

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I feel sick at myself, has to be the worst blooper mistake ever. hate the forgetfulness of my old brain :oops:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Could have been worse eh paul :) i cant believe the sprocket stopped on ! And easy done mate ;)
yea could've been.. if the bolt or spocket came off the whole engine would be a complete gonna then it'd be game over on everything! cos thats the only working engine here.
how did the spocket stay on? that was with full rev & boost pulls too o_O

now replacing the inlet cam and repaint another cover
thank u god/nissan engineers
 

Stani1029

Club Member
Wow wow wow, your a lucky guy paul in terms of the sprocket staying on, you got off lightly. The way i build my engines those are the last to be done so my bigger torque wrench always shows the 113nm (i think thats right)

Will pollyp make it to JAE? lol ;)
 
On the subject of cooling, if you havent fixed the issue of hot top intake pipes yet maybe try a reversed scoop/vent toward the rear of the bonnet or over those pipes, it'll encourage throughflow of air and stop hot gases collecting there. Nothing boyracer like since its not your style but a vented strip could work with the look and be functional?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Wow wow wow, your a lucky guy paul in terms of the sprocket staying on, you got off lightly. The way i build my engines those are the last to be done so my bigger torque wrench always shows the 113nm (i think thats right)

Will pollyp make it to JAE? lol ;)
yea that'll teach me not to work too late. that night putting the cams in, hand screwed the spocket bolts in, it was the last bit to torque it up before bed, it was late, i was tired from building all day and the mind forgot to grab the big wrench to torque it. next morning i saw the cams n spockets on, assuming they're torqued.

they say assumption is the mutha of all F ups

yes 113nm spot on

at this rate of mistakes I'm not sure if I'll make it or blow up lol
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
On the subject of cooling, if you havent fixed the issue of hot top intake pipes yet maybe try a reversed scoop/vent toward the rear of the bonnet or over those pipes, it'll encourage throughflow of air and stop hot gases collecting there. Nothing boyracer like since its not your style but a vented strip could work with the look and be functional?
shortly after driving n moving, the pipes are fine. its just from prolonged idling that the manifold heat radiation begins to warm up the sides of the pipe facing it. its a minor thing.
vent strip, maybe but wouldn't like water to go straight down there.
the cause is mainly from heat radiation so maybe just a piece of heat shield over the mani will resolve it all?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i was able to clean n retap the damaged threads using a bolt cut with slots

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comparing with the other cam, only the first 2-3 teeth were wrecked so i can still reuse the cam

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note when holding a camshaft with ur bare hands while tightening the spocket bolt, the machined edges of the lobes are razor sharp :/

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cams fitted. now washing the cover from the spare engine

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
painted red, waiting to slowly dry before laquer

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with a broken engine cover, lets see whats inside :D first grind off the rivet points

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then peel the shield off. it's bonded lightly onto the cover with PU sealant

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some integrated baffles?

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inside passages. sludge vapour from the crankcase cakes the passage walls. wonder why nissan had plumbed the crankcase & pcv to the manifold going "through" the cover rather than plumbing directly. and why the pcv breather isn't simply a port vent rather than going through these baffled passages?

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where the pcv goes

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another drain port near the pcv breather. hmm maybe the passages were designed so the hot oil vapours travelling through would condense on the cooler engine cover walls and the oil liquid simply drains back down through this plastic port?
essentially they've integrated a sort of oil condensor catch into the engine cover?

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the spark plug o-seals are press fitted onto the cover

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moulded around a metal ring inside that wedges the seal within its housing

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok due to the return ferry sold out on sept 1st there's a change of scheduling.

Mon 27th goto cardiff to see cousin bout emission & forged engine.

Tues 28th goto wales

Wed 29th get the 2pm ferry from heysham to isle of man, see skinner round 6pm




Thurs 30th spend day exploring the island with skinner

Fri 31st get the 8.45am ferry to haysham n drive down to see mike in devon

Sat 1st sept see m8 in london

Sun onwards goto scotland

Thurs 6th go home to prep for JAE

Fri - sun JAE
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
oh ffs the ferry websites account activation process is having a laugh.
registered, click activation link in email and tells me oops its already activated, try log in with various accounts and keeps saying authentication failed:mad:
better off just calling em personally
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
Remember me last year when I was booking the tickets for the ferry to Corsica, what an aweful website !
 
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