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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You just love spending money paul, havnet you got any scrap lying about? and no, because you dont want to put your MAF in the bath :D

not too much i hope:p

naw don't have any scrap sheet mild steel here except for some L-beams and especially no SS, hence having to buy em in
dunno any scrap metal merchants round here

noo i'm not putting the MAF in the bath silly:p wont be bolted on before testin

hey thinkin bout the plate,
maybe i should first weld the pipes onto the solid blank plate (the uncut hole means less likely to burn edges off plus it seals that pipe end too),
plug up the other end with the tyre valve, inflate n test for bubbles,
then i mark and cut out the hole in the plate for the MAF?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Would love to have a blast on one of those ac inverters, whats it like at very low amps like 10-15?

at very low settings with same rod n pipe it simply builds metal on the surface with minimal penetration, not enough heat in pool to melt the pipe. when you chip the slag off, the weld also comes off like poor soldering.
but if i keep welding the same spot for long enough periods, the rod melts alot slower at low amps, the weld pool mass grows and accumulates enough heat to barely penetrate but this results in a very large ugly blob of metal on the surface.

getting the amps just right with the correct technique n pace will produce a nice clean quick weld with enough penetration
 

Guy

Has gone over to the oily side...
Club Member
Getting the amps just right with the correct technique n pace will produce a nice clean quick weld with enough penetration.

You've just summed up stick welding in a single sentence Paul :D.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
:grinning:
i'ma order these SS bits tomorrow
dunno if i should address all that tubing to my house (i'll be at work, don't like neighbours receiving my parcels, unless i can specify to only deliver to my house) or to my long work addr (goes through complex uni postal service)
 

frank

Club Member
i would,nt worry about any minute porosity paul, as long as you can,t see daylight through any holes, then just brush some 2 pack primer or 2 pack araldite around the inner joint eh :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i would,nt worry about any minute porosity paul, as long as you can,t see daylight through any holes, then just brush some 2 pack primer or 2 pack araldite around the inner joint eh :)

yep, or good old body filla:grinning:

i just recalled, i did use the SS rods before to repair the SS backbox hanger, welds the same as the mild steel rod. my welding was abit uglier back then:p
 

superls

K10 Tuner
I am not buying a mig. too expensive and i don't have the storage space

yeah I know what you mean, its not just storage of the welder its the gas cylinder and wires etc, but if you have the space and money there well worth it, can do everything the stick can, unless your welding 10mm plus
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
indeed. if i needed welding doin that I can't do, like body panels, i just take it to a local welder for few quid
 
yeah I know what you mean, its not just storage of the welder its the gas cylinder and wires etc, but if you have the space and money there well worth it, can do everything the stick can, unless your welding 10mm plus
I spend so much money on gas atm, really need to find a cheaper way. imo the gas is the main drawback with mig/tig
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
get it piped in directly beside ur natural gas?:p

trying to find a 70mm (2 3/4") 90 deg MS/SS elbow for the TB to support the MAF without buckling but is hard to find.

found a 70mm Alu elbow thats 2mm thick so inner dia is 66mm whereas the MAF exit is 65mm.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Bend-90-Degree-L-Elbow-70mm-2-3-4-Silicone-Hose-/140360931030?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20ae29d6d6

90aluminium1.jpg


what if i just bond the slightly bigger Alu elbow over the MAF exit with loadsa PU sealant? silicone coupling at the MAF inlet to allow movement.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just researched more into helmet action cams.



the Oregon ATC3k records 640x480 (bout average) at 30fps, takes 2 AA batts so no need to buy & charge several new special batteries (if changing batteries are a hassle i could diy hard wire it into a cig adapter), recs on upto 4gb SDHC (got one already)

review
http://reviews.cnet.co.uk/camcorder...c3k-waterproof-action-camera-review-49303506/

ppl say the audios muffled/crap cos of the waterproofing but there's a guilde for a similar model on how to remove the cover n improve sound & FOV
http://www.utahtrikes.com/ARTICLE-31.html

found it cheapest in ebay at £48:grinning:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oregon-Wa...ctronics_Video_Camcorders&hash=item416186e6f4
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
No wide angle and bad sound quality, I dont if it will suit for your use: as the helmet will be close to the windscreen and close to the engine sound. Maybe you should seek for a used gopro: a bitused more expensivetime but lot of mount possibility, shock proof, wide angle and good sound recording quality even in automotive sports.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey I totally forgot,
i have my spare LG-KU990 Viewty which has a fantastic 5MP cam, steadycam mode! n nice audio, tis Perfect
The ultra cheap convenient option is to go like franks route and mount that on a helmet or make some sturdy mount?(Y)
takes the same 4gb mini-SDHC that i was gonna use on the other two cameras above



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LG_Viewty
 

Seb_

Give me some frogs.
Site Supporter
If you buy one of those tiny helmet cam you can lock it on the passenger side just between the headrest and the seat so you can see your hands while driving ;)
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
If you buy one of those tiny helmet cam you can lock it on the passenger side just between the headrest and the seat so you can see your hands while driving ;)

yes i could screw it into the chassis. but for £25, can't go wrong:grinning: audio-wise i could take it from the JVC cam during editing
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hmm further testing found the viewty to rec at 640x384 30fps so the dedicated Vivitar maybe the better option
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hmm the vivitar dvr480 is actually sold from usa and after postage & tax etc its est £48, alittle off putting but tis still better than the atc3k cos it can support more memory. trying to withstand temptation, continue research till i found the perfect one, got till march to find one anyway
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok did an extensive search of compact sports action helmet cams, listed in excel and the best one is the Drift x170
i think my m8 has one for when he went on his mega biketrip round europe. gonna check his out

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That IS lucky! Lol I just read all 47 PAGES!!! of this blog... awesome work dude, looking forward to see the forged engine fit when its all sorted and ready. By the way (olddd news) but did you declare the rear spoiler you attached or is it ok not to? I think u listed your mods way back but i cant find that page again atm...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
That IS lucky! Lol I just read all 47 PAGES!!! of this blog... awesome work dude, looking forward to see the forged engine fit when its all sorted and ready. By the way (olddd news) but did you declare the rear spoiler you attached or is it ok not to? I think u listed your mods way back but i cant find that page again atm...

thx joe. 47 pages all in one go? hope ur eye's r ok, tis a long read :p

yep spoiler & all mods declared cos it isn't part of the original slx
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ah ffs pants, just got email that the x170 been outa production n outa stock so they refunded my card:(
bah, lets go back to the ebay bid then.
 
thx joe. 47 pages all in one go? hope ur eye's r ok, tis a long read :p

yep spoiler & all mods declared cos it isn't part of the original slx

Well, not all in one go its taken me a few stints of heavy reading in between work and revising for exams, even so my eyes are probably square now!

And cheers, wasnt sure if you could get away with it as it is micra parts... like if i put on an SR bumper or something?

Ha! just found the page :) did you really declare the cd player?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hmm can't remember since its been a yr but i think when i joined sky i quoted my long list of every major mod, may've included the stereo. Tried to find a letter from em that could contain all the declared stuff but don't have any
 
Fair enough, its not a worry i was just surprised as i know a lot of people including myself who have different radio/cd players and have never even thought it was declarable mods...

Tbh was more concerned with spoiler/maybe SR bumpers as im planning a trip to the scrappy soon and if i can get them on without insurance changes then i'll look for some, if not i wont as i cant afford MORE insurance hikes.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i think some insurances cover stereo costs upto certain amount.

check with insurance see if they're bothered bout minor visual mods fitted to other stock micras?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
another thing i forgot to realise. i have a 4th gen 32gb iPod touch and it rec video at 720p:grinning:
tested it rec 50mins at a time

in theory if i make custom screw down mounts for em all I could use the JVC camcorder as the usual cabin shot from rear window, LG Viewty as the footwell cam and the iPod touch as an additional front cabin cam(Y)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the 100x100mm SS plate came last night

DSC05828.JPG
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tday the SS pipes arrived at work:grinning:

DSC05830.JPG


2" 90deg tight bend measures 50mm OD and 1.5mm thick

DSC05831.JPG


2" pipe measures 50mm OD, 410mm long, 1.5mm thick, flared end is 54mm OD and an extra 80mm long, total length is 490mm,

DSC05832.JPG


reducer measures 51mm OD, 1.5mm thick and flared end is 63.5mm OD

DSC05833.JPG


2.5" 90deg elbow measures 63mm OD, 1.5mm thick and flared end is 66.5mm OD

DSC05834.JPG


2.5" 45deg elbow measures 63mm OD, 1.5mm thick and flared end is 66.5mm OD

DSC05835.JPG


2.5" measures 63mm OD, 915mm long, 1.5mm thick, flared end is 66.5mm OD and an extra 75mm long, total length 990mm

DSC05836.JPG
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
grinded the weld bumps off the 50mm bend, twas also abit oval so a preheat & squeeze in vice corrected that.
also had to sand the faces flat on mirror to ensure theres no gaps

waiting on the pipe cutter before i can begin
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ooh just searched on ebay for the x170 camera and saw one thats used, contains just camera/strap/remote/battery/helmet clip, for £65 buy it now delivered
quickly snapped up the bargain (Y) since the other listed ebay bid will most likely rocket up at the last min n could then lose this oppurtunity.
don't care bout getting it new or all that packaging or all the other mount stuff since i'll be either making my own or buy specific mount. long as it works.
can't wait to get it

$%28KGrHqZHJCwE8ff78TS1BPIbMKJuWw%7E%7E60_12.JPG


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drift-X17...70901236759?pt=UK_Gadgets&hash=item3f12f8d417
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
70mm elbow & coupling came tday

DSC05837.JPG


the radius seems too large to fit below the bonnet so to find how much space i actually have i taped a telescopic aerial, closed the bonnet and measured theres 15cm from the TB to the bonnet, very tight for this elbow

DSC05838.JPG


the edge of the MAF is another 2cm so I marked where to cut

DSC05839.JPG


elbow trimmed. the inner dia is 65.5mm so it just slips onto the MAF

DSC05840.JPG


the 70mm silicone straight coupling i ordered is actually 72mmgrr no good for sealing

DSC05841.JPG


the original 70-65 reducing elbow fits better so i trimmed it

DSC05842.JPG


and fits like this

DSC05843.JPG


cut a series of grooves to help the sealant grip

DSC05844.JPG


cut a slot so it can be squeezed by a clamp to ensure its secure mechanically

DSC05845.JPG


layer of gasket sealant on both faces

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inserted & clamped

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fitted. tis very sturdy now and should help flow into the TB

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planning how much SS tubing i need i found that due to the large radius bends and extra lengths at the ends of the elbow bends, i only need like 70mm of the 2" 1/2m pipe and none of the 2.5" 1m pipefwn plenty if spare pipe to practice on i guess
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was thinking about making a short shifter now that i got a welder. got out the spare facelift gear selector linkages. to extend the lower arm i need some extra rod, the old rear ARB seems to be the same diameter :grinning:

DSC05851.JPG


just found out the plastic bushings are also just press fitted :doh:
the inside bore is 18mm, the nut & through bolt are 8mm

DSC05852.JPG


the 1st/2nd gear are starting to get abit sloppy again.
so to further improve the current ball bearing linkage bushes i'll be fitting larger ball bearings that meet metal -> metal rather than the current metal -> nylon, tape, metal.

search shows there's no 18 x 8mm bearings but there's a 19 x 8mm ball bearing and flanged too (product code SF698ZZ)
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/####490/SF698ZZ Metal Shielded Stainless Flanged Deep Groove Ball Bearing 8x19x6mm/product_info.html

the housing will need enlarging with a 19mm twist drill bit
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19mm-BLAC...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item2310a632bf

s-l500.jpg


the soft rubber bush where the selector stabilising arm is anchored to the rear engine mount also has alot of sloppy give so that'll have to be replaced by a solid plastic collar I'll have to machine
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
or to save the cost & hassle of trying to drill the 19mm hole and risk weakening it or drill off-centre, instead i get 3 short mild steel tubes with a 19mm bore and weld one onto the gearstick and weld a replacement universal joint from the other two for the gearbox end :grinning:

oh wait just figured instead of fartin bout extending & aligning the lower gearstick rod, i could just weld the new bigger 19mm bore pipe just underneath the existing 18mm bore pipe of the gearstick to lengthen the throw, easy (Y)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i think sam just slid the ball up a bit on his paul

dont wanna lower the gearstick height cos it'll foul the wide sports seats edge

hows the ball fixed, glued? cos i tried knocking it on the vice with a flathead & hammer but won't move and left an indent
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
first attempt at welding SS. starting the weld from cold is quite tricky as it kept sticking (and the rod gets very hot for the gloves) but once I keep the tip hot it works better. still need more practice

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Neat idea :)

Question about the short shifter thing... surely lengthening the rod would only make the shift shorter in one direction like for 2nd and 4th only? Or is that not what your gonna do? :confused:

Nevermind... looked closer at the pics i was just being thick lol, i get what your gonna do :D
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
lol i get thick moments too:p
tday i was drilling n cutting some steel L-bar for hours to screw onto the vice jaws (was luvely to drill the holes with precision) then cut an old copper pipe cutter in the hope of adapting the vice into a large pipe cutter. went to try weld it, it blobbed to the bar but the pipe cutter metal just melts away only for me to realise its friggin Alu :doh:
silly

just looked for some plate mild steel for the ends of the pipe thats screwed onto the body, jeeze steel plate is £££
one place had 500x500x1.5mm plates at £22:suspect:
http://www.metals4u.co.uk/detail.asp?cat_id=55&prd_id=2499

only need two small pieces and cheapest 1.5mm m/s alternative is a 30x18cm baking sheet at £7
http://www.eurowirecontainers.com/acatalog/msf.html#aMSF

msbs3_XL.jpg

is baking sheet the same M/S material?
 
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