I wish would of been less painful
But then it will be difficult to remove the pipping, right?
it'll be coupled at the turbo, IC and MAF so it can be removed but rather have a solid leak free piping
last night was gonna strip down the spare turbo engine down to the bare block to take to cousin on sunday to get it rebored proper for the forged pistons. thought was gonna take few hrs but i just did it in 1hr :grinning:
Paul, you should of just got a n15 1.6 flywheel and a stage 3 or 4 GA16 clutch. These are more than capable and alot cheaper. Baguette and myself are the only ones I know running this setup and would have been perfect for your future 200 +
Anyways mate, wish you all the best and glad you got your MOT in the end :grinning:
Fixing the demister is a pain... especially in this weather. We left tape on for a few days and went over the breaks a few times to get some good solid layers. Then most of them came off when trying to peel the tape away :suspect:
BTW since you have the heater matrix out, do you think it's a likely cause of boiling coolant steam coming out of the heater vents? Mine might have popped a leak, but I had to give up removing the dashboard after disconnecting everything except the steering wheel and switch stalks (replacing them apparently requires greasing stuff up and some weird Torx bolts I don't have). Absolute nightmare TBH, the ashtray has about 20 screws in it and I still couldn't get access to the heater grr
Hmm, actually last time it was a pretty warm day, and very thick smelly steam - I could hear the coolant boiling... When I drained the rad, there was only about 1 litre in it. Hopefully the head is okMy heaters still in.
If ur heater cores leaking you'd prob notice a pool of coolant on the carpet and a loss of coolant level. I suppose in the freezing cold the 80c coolant leak could steam abit in the cold cabin.
If u hav airbag then you'll need a torx key. The stalks just unscrew off with a philips. You can take the steerin wheel off by loosening the nut near the end(not completely off) then bash the wheel off violently with hands on both sides to shock it off the column spline. Or make a steering puller thing
Or alternatively u can remove the dash with the steering on, just abit of a squeeze though.
Hmm, actually last time it was a pretty warm day, and very thick smelly steam - I could hear the coolant boiling... When I drained the rad, there was only about 1 litre in it. Hopefully the head is ok
That's a good to know about the stalks, maybe I can just remove them and bodge the console out. The design of the pre-facelift models sure seems more accessible than this though!
No aircon and temp gauge is usually bang in the middle, except when it maxed out last time. That sounds plausible - and if the coolant was low it'd be more likely to boil right?do you have aircon btw?
hows the temp gauge?
maybe the hg is leaking slightly, pumping exhaust into the coolant which tends to make a bubbly noise in the heater core shortly after turning the engine off.
if the coolant was boiling and ur gauge was red, the boiled gas would prob just travel up to the rad cap n bubble out of the expansion tank, losing alot of coolant and the gas might also travel up into the cabin fan inlet.
had a go at repairing the rear demister
carefully laid two strips of ducktape and applied silver paint
peeled it off. thats only half of one strip and really tested my patience in the freezing cold.
...hmm thinking asthetically, maybe i shoulda first painted a layer of black paint (facing outside the glass so it doesn't look obvious) before a layer of conductive paint on the inside?
was looking around for a heating element to retrofit onto the heater matrix. this 2 stage heater measures 50/100ohms, normally for 230v so dunno if it'll work at 12v or if it'll just blow the 15a fuse. maybe i should get a 12v car heater n retrofit that.