looking good polly. if you dont paint them they soon wnd up rusting in no time. why are they getting so hot for?
after afew hard stops when the discs real hot i could hear it faintly grinding against the caliper every 1/2 turn only when braking. then when braking moderately hard it sounds like when ur braking with rusty dsics in the morning, its prob the grooves scraping clean the pads as they're hot. the brake pedal now feels its they're slightly below the throttle pedal.
drove 10min on motorway to cool
got back home to inspect. blimey even after 30min of cool driving the brakes & wheel are still boiling hot. well the centre caps centainly stayed put under the intense heat.
the cool brakes works quietly now this morning. although the pedal feels the same as the old brakes initially where ya need to press abit harder to get much braking, and at the biting point there's more sponginess as the brake lines, pads etc squeeze. obviously pressing harder beyond the biting point it stops harder now but just don't like this uncertain initial lack of biting. maybe need to upgrade the master cylinder?
then me m8 pointed out to me this morning i'll prob need to take em out eventually when the tyres need changing..doh. meh thats not till another couple thousand miles i guess
the rear brakes do sod all work now, they're barely warm
I have that initial lack of biting, but no sponginess at the point they start to brake harder, maybe because of Primera GT master cylinder, braided lines and DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Do you have braided lines? They do a big difference when braking harder, gives more feel because they dont expand as much as rubber lines. I was lucky to get a brand new Primera GT master cylinder from UK for only 30£ posted to Portugal, but its not plug and play, you need to get 3 braided lines to adapt it, only one line fitted right away with Primera GT master cylinder. What to you plan to do?
that,s why i,m reluctant to fit gti brakes to mine (apart from the extra weight lol) your front/rear bias is probably nowhere near factory spec now paul, and anyone with these f/brakes and no abs will suffer dangerous understeer while braking into a wet corner
smashin i'll checkout the scrappies on weekend
Make sure its in good condition, or else you must buy a rebuild kit, shouldnt be expensive...
And maybe it will be easy for you to adapt it, only 2 of the 4 exits will be used, no need for braided lines for the master cylinder, and blank the other 2 exits.
do some primeras not have 2 exit type abs cylinders? i have a new spool of brake piping, maybe i could make a new pipework from new cylinder to abs module for a proper job?
lovely, i'll look out for one of those. ta
does upgrading to primera master cylinder make it feel firmer hence need to push harder? although will prob resolve this long travel squishy feel by the increased flow per pedal stroke
maybe upgrading the brake booster could improve the biting feel?
during bedding i noticed i brake harder with me left foot than right, most likely due to this real heavy clutch, which may explain why i think the brake feels weak (cos my right feet is weak )
just looked at my cylinder and it has 3 exits but the bottom 3rd exit is capped.
bah just got call from rallynuts and goodridge said to them that its only rear drum brake lines they sell, but they could make some rear disc versions if i send em an example of mine. since goodridge don't sell direct, rallynuts said if i send em my rear disc hose they'll pass it to goodridge to custom make it.
its abit inconvenient since my old rear hoses are binned, currently using the car for work and not gona buy a new rear hose for them to copy. gona have to look elsewhere to get it custom made somehow. hmm maybe matt humphris'll know
disc runout or wheelbearing wear can push the pads back eh paul, you could try clamping each flexy in turn to see if one corner is at fault :grinning: