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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this is soo annoying. still leans out over 6k in 2nd so i replaced the fuel filter, see if thats blocking at high flow

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the old filter was abit dark in the inlet side so was dirty.
went for a run and dammit it stills leans at high rev.
attempted to change the FPR but the vac line was in a 90deg angle and didn't have any longer 4mm vac pipe, phoned me cousin to bring some spare pipe tomorrow to change it at the track.
tweaked n tweaked the values and best i can achieve is:
2nd gear - richens at 11-12 below 5k, 12-13 at 5-6k, then peaks at 14 above 6k rpm
3rd gear - peaks at 13afr
4-5th - 12-13afr

tis only reving high in 2nd that its prone to leaning so think i'll have to short shift in that gear.
 
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martinb

Ex. Club Member
Have you spoke to Ed about it?

Forgive my ignorance and lack of knowledge but if you upped the fuel at the very high end would that counter out your problems?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
not at this short notice cos its sunday. have to deal with it myself for now

when it was remapped he told me to leave the fuel map alone since its all correct and just tweak the injector values. was all working fine last week so somethings gone wrong
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Have you tried running the car with the lambda disconnected (not sure if the fuel map you've got covers the whole range or just additional fueling)...i know you're using a different ecu setup but thats the only way i can get mine to live where i want it to. With it connected the car always leans out.

Sorry if ive already suggested this btw :D but the sites still taking to long to load for me to check.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Have you tried running the car with the lambda disconnected (not sure if the fuel map you've got covers the whole range or just additional fueling)...i know you're using a different ecu setup but thats the only way i can get mine to live where i want it to. With it connected the car always leans out.

Sorry if ive already suggested this btw :D but the sites still taking to long to load for me to check.
tried that during tuning and still leans out above 6k
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Castle Combe trackday 2011

k on sunday i drove over to stay at a b&b in wrexham

8.30 on monday i went into demontweak to buy some EBC redstuff pads, wheel off, old pads out but ohhhh i forgot my g-clamp to push the piston in, dammit.

enquired bout a caliper piston tool and it was £92 lol. asked their fitting garage bout borrowing a piston tool but nope they have their own special tools and can only use themselves.
fitting new pads was only £25, right ok go on.. clock was ticking away. twas 9am shoulda left by now cos takes 3hrs to get to the track. done 10mins later left by 9.30 and storm done to castle combe.

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brakes were very grippy initially cos of the rough bedding in coating. few miles later it almost returns to normal grip levels. at this stage compared to the predator pads, redstuff brakes require slightly more effort when cold and only squealed quietly when braking gently to a stop.

after 170miles near the track i warm the brakes through the country roads and feels more responsive, not as grippy or wide temp range as the predator but close.

got there at 12.30 just before sign in & briefing

unloaded stuff into m8s micra as a sort of spare tools holding :) set dampers to full hard 30 clicks front & rear, went for sighting lap, the track is soo much wider n smoother n grippier than in a game. car felt good at low speed, only limited by the fact it starts to lean out above 5k.

so took out the old FPR, fitted the spare one from the 200sx fuel rail

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went out to test and once again it still leans out at 14afr above 6k so i had to short shift at 5k and miss out the high end.

i left the tyres at the same 3bar pressure so at race speed its at 3.18/3.05 front/rear and i believe thats the right pressure to retain sidewall stiffness and tyre patch cos they're only wearing within the tread area after few laps

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so the laps, tis been such a blast, track is so grippy. the LSD was a stone groove :p

i found during the slow s-bends that if i only coast/low power round the bend the front is more likely to understeer wider. but if i plant it full power mid corner or sometimes just throughout the corner, steer in abit more, the diff locks and the front tucks in and pulls her tighter in so next time i could take the corner faster n faster :)

when braking hard before a corner i sense the abs engaging and i think the uneven method of modulation is causing the rear end to occasionally wiggle abit as its unloaded. through the fast double right hander at the old paddock bend, the could sense the rear would like to come out twitch outwards if i turn too tight, but taking a wider entry sweep for less exit steering angle solved that and i always found the locking lsd would just pull the front end back to where i'm steering whenever the rear end wriggles.

tried softening the rear to 20clicks and maybe abit stabler but hard to tell difference

eventually let me dad have a go and boy is it scary telling him where to brake n corner n change gear, screaming Keep ur hands at friggin 9-3 o'clock position!, use ur mirrors! signal n let the fast guy pass!
came in after generous 4laps cos felt any longer and he'll cause a crash :/
finished last 30mins with afew fast blast till i'm almost outa fuel

day finished, went over to m8s house to discuss bout the car n we figured the afr issue i'm having might well be a lack of fuel supply at peak load pointing to the fuel pump. i'm thinking it can't keep up at max load maybe cos its getting old? (tis a used gts-t pump eh) or cos i tend the run the tank till red and overheat the pump? or maybe cos of the octane booster that could contaminate the pump?

drove home i will need to to check her over tomorrow

just ordered a new walbro 255 fuel pump from rallynuts for £121 delivered asap



http://www.rallynuts.com/walbro/sytec-walbro-motorsport-fuel-pump-kit.html
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hmmm surely thats gotta mean the fuel map needs tweaking :S as i guess you're running the same boost level etc.
shouldn't need to cos ed says don't touch the fuelmap cos its all tuned n correct n just need to tweak the multipliers/latancy etc and plus it all worked fine last week.
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Ah well, yeah if all was spot on before its gotta be something simple, hopefully the new fuel pump will help you out.

Sounds like you also had a good time on the track. :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was so much fun solarice

thankfully i pulled him Zed before he got carried away

k damage report tday.
front right pads r fine, signs of heat soaking at high temps by the yellow discolouring and bubbling paint on the sides

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front left

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although oddly the guy at demontweaks only fitted the anti-squeal shim to just one of the left pads? wont be needing it

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the bolt holding the middle support has vibrated off so screwed a new one in

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wheels all thoroughly washed

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front left/right tread in good state

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rear left inner sill that needs welding. the outer sill just has surface rust

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left floorpan slight surface rust. what a silly edge construction that allows spray from the back wheel to collect in the exposed gap n rusting the joint

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rusted right inner sill

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but oh crap the right floorpan edge with the silly exposed lip has rusted away and yet more welding needed

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ducktape holds it for now till i have time to get someone to weld it

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hope the fuel pump arrives tomorrow
 
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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday changed the oil to halfords motorsport 5w50. it may not have worked on the forged engine due to the honing but this stock engine might be ok.

walbro pump kit arrived. noticed it doesn't come with a wiring plug :( rang rallynuts bout it and guy says he'll see if he can send me a spare

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its only 3/4 the size of the stock or gts-t pump so the rubber mounts don't work

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tried wrapping a sheet of rubber mat round it but was abit too thick

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using smaller patches of rubber was too unsecure

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using thin rings of the rubber allowed the clip to be secured but the rubber just slips loose

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so used the large sheet of rubber to surround the motor but squeezed in the plastic casing with zipties so the locking clips are straight

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ain't gonna wait for rallynut to maybe send the plug so i figured i could use normal blade connectors on the motor terminals

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fitted

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primed the pump. the stock & gts-t motor used to make a quiet steady pitch humm but this walbro motor always starts off at high pitch then gradually drops to a lower pitch as the fuel load flows through it. not loud at all, same as the gts-t, overpowered by the exhaust.

initially a large ploom of oily white smoke came out the pipe as i opened the gate, then reduced abit :/
prob just excess. ran her longer and doesn't smoke now.

tuned the injectors and fellas, the AFR is back to normal, goes down to 10.5afr at 7k :)
so it was the fuel pump
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ooh look at that, plugs are perfect with a brown side electrode, black middle electrode & outer casing and a pinky brown insulator:grinning:

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solarice

Ex. Club Member
Good to know its sorted it :)

I had the same prob with my fuel pump (same size as yours), i just cable tied it to the sleeve and then clipped it back onto the internal mount. Didnt bother spacing it out evenly and so far so good.
 
hey mate, glad you got the fuel pump sorted. Just wanted to let you know that next time your in the breakers have a look for a facelift k11 like mine, the plug for the walbro is made to fit the later models, and has a swirl pot instead of the holder you have. You might want to consider swapping it over if it fits rather than those straps and rubber sheet holding it in place :eek: oh and the filter they send you for the pump is too big to fit it in the swirl pot unless you reverse and fold it which causes fueling issues as iv experienced lol so grab the stock pump also if you bother doing it.

heres mine







Filter they send fitted

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fab info scopez(Y)
so the motor was meant for a facelift. i'll look for a facelift at scrappy if rallynut doesnt send me the plug.

the walbro pickup filter just about fits in my fuel tanks tray, though removing the pump assembly would be fiddly cos the long tail of the pickup would catch on the edge like a latch so i'd have to reach down n pull up the tail so i could slide the thing out backwards

how are the support tray, that the fuel pump casing clips into, anchored to the tank?
the facelift swirl pot looks like a 1960s dodgy tupperware found in old fridges lol

just filled up the tank and the walbro pump has a constant pitch now. surround fuel prob dampens the motor load
 
No probs (Y) The plugs on the later models must be what they made the pump to match. Yeah the pick up they send is way to long in my opinion; so I swapped it over to the the OEM pick up because the pump had difficulties sucking anything less than 5 litres of fuel on any incline, which kept causes my engine to die and then great difficulty getting it started again.

The swirl pott on mine sits on a rail at the bottom of the tank; so yeah its pretty much exactly like yours only the casing is different. So you should be able to just slide the new one on, providing it will fit the rail/anchor. Job done ; )

lol tupperware, i just googled it and I see what you mean :laugh:


Are you going to be coming to RWYB Pod on the 2nd/15th October? Turbo vs Turbo ha ha
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
No probs (Y) The plugs on the later models must be what they made the pump to match. Yeah the pick up they send is way to long in my opinion; so I swapped it over to the the OEM pick up because the pump had difficulties sucking anything less than 5 litres of fuel on any incline, which kept causes my engine to die and then great difficulty getting it started again.

The swirl pott on mine sits on a rail at the bottom of the tank; so yeah its pretty much exactly like yours only the casing is different. So you should be able to just slide the new one on, providing it will fit the rail/anchor. Job done ; )

lol tupperware, i just googled it and I see what you mean :laugh:


Are you going to be coming to RWYB Pod on the 2nd/15th October? Turbo vs Turbo ha ha
looks like the long walbro filter pickup you had to bend under in the facelift swirlpot wasn't allowing the pump to be fitted as low possible to suck up the last bit of fuel, though at that point you should be refuellling anyway and prob not good for the motor

not sure i can make it to santapod, will be busy looking for a new job probably

i think the motorsport oil is too thin when cold at the 5w mark cos during warming up as i drive out the garage, the exhaust shoots a big mist of white oil smoke. once its warmed up enough down the road the smoke clears as it thickens up to the 50 mark

just drove down to london and the oil level is stable so i think tis just a temporary initial start issue.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the vids from castle combe

sighting laps



did a sound check afterwards and it was only a puny 90dB at 4k :)

1st session
lap times were:

02:00s
01:55s
01:49s

quickly buildin confidence



changed the FPR, refuelled and 2nd session run
lap times:

01:51s
01:40s
01:39s
01:47s
01:41s

gradually braking harder and cornering faster




letting dad drive :/



last session, finding out i can really push the LSD to pull the front end in tighter at the exits
lap times:

01:42s
01:43s
01:44s
01:43s
01:39s
01:37s
01:41s

getting faster near the end as i discover how to use the lsd, improve exit speed and the track clears till the point where the coolants heating up and i'm running outa fuel

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just came back after a long drive to n from london and my fuel runs show that if i do 50-60mph off boost and always maintaining 14.7afr she does 50-56mpg :) and if a push it 70-80mph full boost with hard urban driving she does 35mpg. pretty nice

the plugs are looking abit brown all round with a hint of red on the backside of the side electrode
 

baguete

Site Supporter
Ah, ive told at the time, just order a Walbro instead of a Skyline pump... :laugh:

Glad everything is sorted now. And go for Scopez advice, facelift fuel pump support is much better (my 2nd pre-facelift SR has it too from stock, i assume that all 2nd pre-facelifts has them).
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Ah, ive told at the time, just order a Walbro instead of a Skyline pump... :laugh:

Glad everything is sorted now. And go for Scopez advice, facelift fuel pump support is much better (my 2nd pre-facelift SR has it too from stock, i assume that all 2nd pre-facelifts has them).
guess i was too tight n skimped for the lowest cost pump and paid the price for using an underpowered and maybe worn skyline pump

fuel pump support working fine here with the walbro filter
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
gee just had an ARGHH moment goin to work. was gonna overtake a lorry, 3rd gear full boost, as i was just beside the lorry cabin something went POP! making the back of the bonnet bounce up, mixture goes 10afr and power goes from 160 to like 10bhp as she slows down and struggles to hold 30mph. meanwhile another car ahead was getting awfully close :eek:
lorry had to slow to let me in as the car putputtss at 30. pulled over off the main road to check and the 90deg hose has popped off the TB:suspect: odd why it does it now rather than during castle combe or when caning it to london.
tightened clip and pops off again at full boost, bah. retightened as much as possible n keep boost low. gonna have to use them stronger nut/bolt clamps
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
popped again this lunchtime full boost at high rev. gonna cut some grooves across the TB port with the dremel n order some t-bolt clamps from rockauto for bout £2.50 each

local welder said £60 to weld the inner sills n floorpan up
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
gee just had an ARGHH moment goin to work. was gonna overtake a lorry, 3rd gear full boost, as i was just beside the lorry cabin something went POP! making the back of the bonnet bounce up, mixture goes 10afr and power goes from 160 to like 10bhp as she slows down and struggles to hold 30mph. meanwhile another car ahead was getting awfully close :eek:
lorry had to slow to let me in as the car putputtss at 30. pulled over off the main road to check and the 90deg hose has popped off the TB:suspect: odd why it does it now rather than during castle combe or when caning it to london.
tightened clip and pops off again at full boost, bah. retightened as much as possible n keep boost low. gonna have to use them stronger nut/bolt clamps
Been there, thought i'd killed the car when it happened haha. Got the thing clamped so hard now, im never taking it off (if i can help it)...plus it took ages to get the thing on :D
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
^they harder to fit than jubilees?

rallynuts sent me a spare fuel pump connector tday

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solarice

Ex. Club Member
Not usually, just the clamp i've got is a little small (gotta unbolt it completely to get it around). Ive got the throttle body then a cut down rubber collar and then the 90 bend. Because of that theres very little movement to help get everything in place.

If you've got the correct size you wont have a prob. :)
 
haha been there when i turbo'd my n14 it was bloody loud when it popped there was people walking when it happend i just came on to boost and it was like a huge squeal then POP!!! the people #### them selfs more than i did :laugh:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well i dremelled afew grooves on the TB for the hose to bite into and cleaned the throttle & IAV

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she starts right up and quickly goes 14.7 which is good

took her out into countryside to test if the hose holds.
she holds fine alright but in doing so i found the shocking reason why it blow off.
3rd gear WOT she goes rich and boost builds upto and then beyond 10psi upto 20psi!!!!!:eek:
whaaaa quickly off power, i thought i was seeing things.
pulled over n check boost control and found this!

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the soft silicon wastegate boost line had ruptured cos i ziptied the inlet hose to the radiator which squeezes the 90deg elbow onto the boost line and the brass pipe which was too long and eventually ate through the soft walls.
so this morning i essentially had no boost control when i overtook the lorry, boost goes beyond 10psi and the hose couldn't take it, which prob saved the engine. thank god the stock engine's strong enough to briefly withstand 20psi and not go bang.

shortened the brass pipe, used the thicker vac line and not tied the hose to the rad

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signs of oil residue on the turbo inlet. i really need to sort out an oil catch and the IC is prob partial pooling with oil
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
haha been there when i turbo'd my n14 it was bloody loud when it popped there was people walking when it happend i just came on to boost and it was like a huge squeal then POP!!! the people #### them selfs more than i did :laugh:
:laugh:
10psi+ of boost certainly makes a big pop
 
haha i was going to ask you if it was a boost issue mine had a dodgy actuator and i think thats why mine blew off. nice one on finding the problem tho mate (Y)
 
ah thought they did i get mixed up with working on different cars all the time. yeah i think one of these would be better for you mate.
 
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