Are you sure you're losing oil through the piston rings? Could possibly be the turbo seal?
The best thing to do is install previous engine with Janspeed exhaust, get a "new" block, bore it to forged pistons spec, get new rings for forged pistons and start over again. Hope you get it all sorted soon mate.
fit the previous engine, yes. but to buy a new block to get machined, re-ringed with forged pistons then spend more time n money n labour swapping that into the car for no advantage at all in the end seems pretty pointless
been spending way too much now, just want a setup that'll work reliably at no additional cost. forged engine was simply just an expensive luxery that i now pay the price for.
Did you run the engine in with used engine oil? And how long did you run it in for?
you,ll suss it out in the end paul (Y) just fit the other engine and have some fun with the boostin, then inspect that forged engine at your leisure (my money is on the honing personally, the compressions sound ok but the honing might be too deep and holding too much oil ?)
Jez sorry to here this man
I guess the only real positive outlook at the moment is the stock compression one, hey it worked for tristian didn't it
Don't give up on that block though mate, just leave it in the garage for when you can fix/ replace it
Have you got the original stock compression map that came with the car turbo/engine still or will your map be ok with different compression ratios?
I reckon it could be Done in a night with help mate
If I could get to you I'd love to Kendal a hand and see you back up and running again
Good luck mate
I've read someone used to repair piston aircraft engines, he'd run them on WOT and then throw some vim (scouring powder) down the intakes. This would deglaze the bores/rings and (usually) cured any oil consumption.
Personally, I've never been brave enough to try it, but he swears by it. I'm not too sure how well a car engine would repsond but if you try it and it works, post up the results.
ok ppl tonight i changed from 5w50 fuly synth back to my usual castrol gtx 10w40 with new filter.
drove at 2.8k 60mph for 50m and oil stays full, looks promising that the thickness is helping.
pushed it hard on next test at 3-4k 80mph for 50m and oil drops abit but less than with 5w50.
ok lets try even thicker. looking for castrol high milage oil i used to get but asda only has 10w40 and 15w40. the high milage stuff used to be 15w40 (they prob just removed that sub title) so i got that.
with 15w40 i drove at 70mph 3k for 50m where it used to certainly lose abit of oil over long motorway distances. the result is its still full(Y)
seems 5w50 was def too thin for the state of this engine but i'll do more milage on 15w40 to make sure it fixes the oil loss for good.
thats such a promising result mate im glad its working maybe run that for a couple of k and then see if it will take the thinner oil again as the forged stuff is alot harder and maybe bed in slower or something along those lines
don't think i'd be reckless enough to try that but maybe if the engine is def a gonner and its an absolute last resort before any major machining or binning it
the plugs have always been having this white crusty deposit build up on one side of the insulator & electrode (prob whichever side is facing the inlet) since running the forged engine, the threaded outer bit is normal soot black. always thought its cos its running too lean. last night i changed from stock plugs to the colder turbo plugs and still same one sided deposit.
now i read the white crusty stuff could be ash from burning oil and that may be supported by the recent rapid oil loss, wet piston sides, heavy sooty deposits throughout the exhaust system. so tis prob certain that there's issues with the cyl honing or rings. lets see if the 15w40 reduces oil loss past the rings and so piston become drier n plugs brown up n make less soot
can the pro rings be reused on a rehoned block? or is it they only have one shot at breaking-in. what effect does a real thick oil have on the engine?