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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Got the same with my other yellow one, sills,rear floor, bits on the rails, two trailing arm mounts inner arches crossmember, n/s front floor inner sills and mounts
And that's the same with my d21 :( lots of rot , rust and ventilation lol ,
But she's looking good now paul

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
yup they're getting to that age of infinite rotting. hope this'll last for a while.

can't wait to see the end of all this welding chore and just drive
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new floor pieces welded on. just need to finish the back 1/2, grind it down, paint and that's all the big welding jobs done 😌

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-10-19 Replace pug 307 gear selector cables

ever since 2004 our old 307 had a very worn & sloppy gear shifter with upto 5cm of lateral play and 2cm of back forth play. the central LCD screen also gets fuzzy when hot.

I recently got a new screen on ebay, replaced the primative dull bulbs inside with a 12v LED strip which is soo much better.
and got a new selector cable off ebay for £30

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stripping out the mid console to remove the gear stick & cables

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but then found a big problem. the new cable was 2-3" shorter, the two cables were the wrong way round in the rubber gromet and finally the actual relative angle of the ball-joint end cups on the cable are a complete opposite.
this is clearly a friggin LHD cable 🙄 🤬

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I even tried slicing the cables off the gromet to flip em left to right but the cable was simply too short and won't reach the gearbox 🤬

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refitting the old cable was pointless and returning the new cable ain't possible since I need to use the car tomorrow and already voided warranty by chopping it.

I had no other option but to simply chop off the new ball-joint ends (since thats the bit we need to freshen up) and weld it onto the longer old cables (good thing the cable ends are solid steel)

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grinded the welds smooth so it can slide fully in/out

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reinstalled the new cable and wow with only 1.5cm of lateral play and 0.5cm of longitudinal play it feels soooo much sharper to shift gears now.
job done although it took 3hrs longer than expected 😁 typical french cars

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-10-20 Install Corsa B Coilovers on micra for Jamie LetsTorqueCars

after making his duck-bill splitter & fitting wider banded wheels, Jamie needed help with replacing the standard front struts with corsa B coilovers to lower the front end

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the spring top cup has the steering bearing built into the mid-part, which we will bolt onto the micra top mount

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but there is a big gap between the thread and the spring top cup

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there is a gap between the bottom of the top mount and the rubber cusioned plate which the strut bolts onto.
so if we simply fully tighten the top nut, the spring top cup will simply jam into the top mount

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a 25-40mm spacer collar is machined to separate the top mount from the spring top and allow the top cup to spin on it's bearing freely

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it took upto 6hrs of tweaking but it eventually sits much lower, with the standard arch barely missing the tyre and the splitter just missing the floor

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changing the struts with no time for any alignment, the wheels will obviously have excessive toe-in but I had to drive his car back to his house from his grandmas garage.

it was a very nervous drive as the tyres were skipping & understeering all over the road & corners while trying to miss any humps with that low duckbill splitter :poop: will be realigned soon

here's the new video

 
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Low Rider

Poindexter
Moderator
Club Member
it was a very nervous drive as the tyres were skipping & understeering all over the road & corners while trying to miss any humps with that low duckbill splitter :poop: will be realigned soon
Yeah, but the scrub radius on that thing will be pretty appalling.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Why don’t people do the neat tidy thing and order replacement sills ??
for me, having a neat looking original sill wasn't a priority cos it was mostly hidden & gonna be undersealed anyway.
main reason is cos it wasn't economical since just a pair of "outer" sills cost over £60 whereas I could buy £30 of sheet steel enough to form both sides of the inner & outer sills
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yeah, but the scrub radius on that thing will be pretty appalling.
aye but he's only doing this for looks and fun :cool: performance/handling ain't priority.
I must say that it doesn't have PAS so doing any slow turning is a damn hard on these insanely wide poking semi slicks lol 😓😁
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
finished the sills with hammerite waxyoil underbody seal

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the drivers door hinge is abit worn & sags down slightly. tried to swap the rears to the fronts but soon discovered the rear hinges poke out more, aw well

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also found the front wings upper bolt has seized and had to yank it out so thats another thing to weld

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and yet more rust under the bonnet hinge 🙄 all this flippin extra rust issues has drained me and just cba this weekend 😩

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opening up my old boost gauges to fix the lighting and remove the shiny silver trims

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SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
The joys of owning a Micra, I was doing the usual pre event car spanner checks when I found yet more rust in one of the rear wheel arches on Saturday, meaning a couple of hours of metal work and welding.... :(
 
Paul, I recently watched a YouTube that talked about ensuring good oil supply on track and high performance engines, it mentioned AccuSump as a cheaper and easier method than either a dry sump or baffles etc, just wondering if you'd seen them? It works similar to a air cell on top of a house water pump to store oil at pressure to inject into the engine if pull supply is interrupted.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Paul, I recently watched a YouTube that talked about ensuring good oil supply on track and high performance engines, it mentioned AccuSump as a cheaper and easier method than either a dry sump or baffles etc, just wondering if you'd seen them? It works similar to a air cell on top of a house water pump to store oil at pressure to inject into the engine if pull supply is interrupted.
oh yeah I remember watching something like that used in Nascar?

googling says they're over £200-£500! but just had a thought I could perhaps make a simple much cheaper prototype using some old monotube shock absorber,
- removing the main piston/shaft, plumbing the engine oil supply (with a valve) into the hole where the shaft used to go through,
- utilising the seperator piston to allow engine oil pressure to compress the gas chamber (storing the accumulated oil pressure and volume)

be interesting to test out one day
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-11-03 Correcting Jamies (LetsTorqueCars) Corsa B coilovers part 2

since fitting the coilovers for Jamie, it sat abit too low, I couldn't wind the spring up any higher, we needed to replace the improvised 38mm long 17mm sockets with proper top mount spacers, and I had to straighten those wheels

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so here I made some extra 10mm spacers on top of the previous 25mm ones totalling at 35mm long so that the top nut tightens onto enough threads

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notice that even at full droop I had to compress the spring all the way up to stop the tyres hitting the arch but with the helper spring totally squashed, it's literally useless

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I removed the un-used helper springs, wirebrushed all the threads clean so I can now wind the stiffer main spring all the way up

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at it's highest setting it now sits much better with 10mm droop and 15mm bump travel and clears most of the minor bumps.

I also crudely straightened the alignment using a long wooden pole against the rim & tape measure against the sills.
it must've had over 2-3deg of toe-in beforehand with it skipping everywhere but now with roughly 0deg toe Wow it's soo much better, sharper and no more scrubbing when turning :cool:

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that's a mean stance

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
for a long time on my to-do list I knew that I needed to get some special helper springs for my stiffer 6kg BC front coils to sit properly.

but after fixing Jamies coilover yesterday, I discovered that the corsa B coilover helper springs he didn't need anymore were conveniently exactly the right size I needed (60mm inner dia, 80mm outer dia) 😃

so I don't have to buy any from BC. free stuff ftw yay 😇👌

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googling says they're over £200-£500! but just had a thought I could perhaps make a simple much cheaper prototype using some old monotube shock absorber,
- removing the main piston/shaft, plumbing the engine oil supply (with a valve) into the hole where the shaft used to go through,
- utilising the seperator piston to allow engine oil pressure to compress the gas chamber (storing the accumulated oil pressure and volume)
Oh I like that idea! Mind if I steal it some time?
Yeah for a simple item they are pretty dear, the video was an interview with mountune developing race engines so in comparison it was cheap, (they made it seem like baffle sump design was a more difficult thing to get right?) I like the pre oiling aspect too, kills two reasonably big birds with one relatively simple stone...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Oh I like that idea! Mind if I steal it some time?
Yeah for a simple item they are pretty dear, the video was an interview with mountune developing race engines so in comparison it was cheap, (they made it seem like baffle sump design was a more difficult thing to get right?) I like the pre oiling aspect too, kills two reasonably big birds with one relatively simple stone...
go for it, I think a tiny front strut won't hold enough oil capacity but worth a try to see if it's possible, especially if the parts are almost free. jamie just said he won't need the old strut since we drilled the top mount holes so I can have em to mess with 😁

yeah hydraulic accumulators are really simple and a £200 accumulator vs £thousands engine is a no-brainer choice.

I saw these two gr8 videos explaining the inner workings of it


I love the fact that it can prime the engine & turbo oil beforehand
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
go for it, I think a tiny front strut won't hold enough oil capacity but worth a try to see if it's possible, especially if the parts are almost free. jamie just said he won't need the old strut since we drilled the top mount holes so I can have em to mess with 😁

yeah hydraulic accumulators are really simple and a £200 accumulator vs £thousands engine is a no-brainer choice.

I saw these two gr8 videos explaining the inner workings of it


I love the fact that it can prime the engine & turbo oil beforehand
Will a strut assembly reliably hold the engine oil pressure, on initial start up, when the oil is cold (80psi?) A failure could cause a wrecked engine..... for under thirty quid this looks to be a better bet.....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professonal-Aluminum-Autos-Engine-Oil-Reservoir-Catch-Tank-Vacuum-Pressure-Gauge-/152699564653
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the previous cooling fan & part cooling duct on my 3D printer was quite inefficient so I redesigned it many times into this layout where the 30mm fan cools the E3D cooling fins 1st (it prevents heat from the hot end from prematurely melting the plastic filaments before it's been fed from the extrusion motor above it), and then it's smoothly ducted down to cool the freshly extruded plastic too

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assembled like this

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printed it in 3 sections and glued together

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the ducting is removable so if part-cooling ain't needed, the E3D cooling air is simply exhausted out without cooling the extruded plastic

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Will a strut assembly reliably hold the engine oil pressure, on initial start up, when the oil is cold (80psi?) A failure could cause a wrecked engine..... for under thirty quid this looks to be a better bet.....https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Professonal-Aluminum-Autos-Engine-Oil-Reservoir-Catch-Tank-Vacuum-Pressure-Gauge-/152699564653
I believe so, considering a front hydraulic strut is designed to withstand the huge suspension forces and intense oil pressure of a piston shuving rapidly through the cylinder full of stone cold suspension oil when it strikes a big bump at high speed.

haynes says the engine oil system ranges from 11-60psi, I doubt the strong cylinder will rupture.
at worst case if the oil/gas separator piston seal fails, it's still a closed hydraulic chamber so it won't completely drain/starve the engine of oil.
the only major possible failure of the accumulator is from the hydraulic hoses/connectors themselves.

that link is for a hollow catch can with all those screw fittings along the cylinder, not suitable.
it basically needs to be a simple smooth hydraulic piston chamber.
 
go for it, I think a tiny front strut won't hold enough oil capacity but worth a try to see if it's possible, especially if the parts are almost free.
I was thinking of using some stuffed Landcruiser shocks we have at home somewhere, given the cylinder is possibly only about 1/2 full it would need to be a decent sized shock, I agree worth your comment the duty required of a shock is far beyond that of an accumulator.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I was thinking of using some stuffed Landcruiser shocks we have at home somewhere, given the cylinder is possibly only about 1/2 full it would need to be a decent sized shock, I agree worth your comment the duty required of a shock is far beyond that of an accumulator.
to hold a decent volume of oil & gas, I wonder where you could find a big & low cost hydraulic piston cylinder?
front shock absorbers from off roaders, long engine crane hydraulic rams, power steering racks?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2019-11-09 Fit Matthews pneumatic exhaust cut-out valve

the cheap electronic cut-out valve that was fitted on Matthews octavia few months ago has failed and stuck open till he was recently pulled over and advised to get it fixed within 14days 😬

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here's the rubbish electronic valve on the left VS the new pneumatic valve which was simpler & abit cheaper

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looking inside the motorised valve, the tiny teeths on the final gear simply shredded off 🙄

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welded the new valve onto the existing un-used V-band flange

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plumbed the vacuum hose into the inlet manifold.
it's a really simple system.
when off, the sprung loaded actuator pushes the valve closed.
when on, a solenoid allows vacuum from the inlet manifold to pull the actuator diaphram back, which opens the exhaust valve

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removing a ton of luggage from his estate to route the vacuum lines

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new valve bolted on and welded an extra muffler onto the end of the tip to make it abit quieter 😁🤫

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before Jamie bins the standard front struts from his mcira, I was curious to see if it's a monotube design I could use as an oil accumulator.

nope, it's just a normal twin-tube type

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inner chamber with the base-valve

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shaft seal & bushing

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piston shaft

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