I like the idea Paul but.........so a few months ago I printed these replacement plastic mounts for a m8s glass sliding shower door
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but the heavy weight of the glass had cracked the weak PLA plastic
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so I redesigned it out of really beefy stainless steel to ensure it's strong enough this time
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cutting some 8mm thick stainless bar for the bracket plates.
it's abit OTT but best to overengineer it
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machined the supporting collars that fits over the ball joint
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drilled the plates
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machined the socket screw heads smaller so they don't foul. the two screws fit into the oval glass holes which keeps the bracket upright.
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and rounded the corners
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relative to the weight of the glass which weighs a ton, these brackets are only at worst gonna add bout the weight of a jug of water overallI like the idea Paul but.........
You are now putting a LOT more weight onto the glass panel, which I assume hangs from the fairly flimsy frame/track. This will be the next failure point and not so easy to fix.........
An open deck block will be more than up to the task of ~160bhpI thought that you were going to base the rebuild on another auto block Paul? How will the open deck block stand up to the high state of tune that you had before?
preferably an auto block but this is what I got and tbh the fresh condition of this whole engine is more important than trying to obtain a closed-deck structure.I thought that you were going to base the rebuild on another auto block Paul? How will the open deck block stand up to the high state of tune that you had before?
can't afford forged bits.Are you forging this engine Paul or just stripping it down regardless?
An open deck block will be more than up to the task of ~160bhp
cool, knock sensor would be handy for forced inductionI'll check my CGA3 that's up on the engine stand as a comparison, just for the fun of it. The only obvious difference on the later blocks is the inclusion of a mount point for a knock sensor.
I've noted that the numbers on the engine are fairly meaningless with respect to dates. On the later coilpack engines, there's actually a stamping on the cam side cover which has the year/month of manufacture on it. The last CGA3 donor engine I bought was a 2002 unit, so fairly late.
possibly, but all the chain guides, piston rings, cylinder pitting and crank thrust bearings are equally worn out so it could just be high mileage?Had you considered, Paul, that the difference in timing chain guide wear could well be due to the better lower sprocket lubrication on the old engine? Did you drill & tap the boss on the new block and fit the oil jet from the old engine?
It's never ever overheated at all so I think it opens far enough for normal use but just not ideal for max cooling on track.Do you think the partially opening thermostat caused you issues? We know number 3 is the weak spot, and my old rally engine the paint around no 3 flaked off with the heat but the other three were all ok. Is there an issue with the water flow around no 3?
Hello Master Paul first of all you are doing a great job as usual.I plan to replace all the ferrous steel pipes in the cooling system (which tends to rust & contaminate the fluid) with stainless/alloy so the coolant stays cleaner for longer.
clamped the thermostat housing steel pipes in a vice & twisted em off
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machined & inserted the new alloy ports
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testing the thermostats and the genuine one from the spare engine worked perfect so I'm reusing it, whereas the aftermarket stat from the blown engine no longer opens fully
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fitted the stainless manifold studs
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it was quite a tight fit to press in, like the originals so I think it'll be alreet. pretty difficult to get em back out without wrecking itI think I would have put a couple of shallow grooves in each pipe and used some Loctite
Studlock, then pushed them into the housing..............
The secret of getting a good interference fit without any loctite or similar would be to make the tube at least 5 thou bigger than the hole in the housing, then put the tube in the freezer for a couple of hours and heat the housing in boiling water, same principle used for shrink fitting the ring gear on a flywheel.......it was quite a tight fit to press in, like the originals so I think it'll be alreet. pretty difficult to get em back out without wrecking it
gr8 tip johnThe secret of getting a good interference fit without any loctite or similar would be to make the tube at least 5 thou bigger than the hole in the housing, then put the tube in the freezer for a couple of hours and heat the housing in boiling water, same principle used for shrink fitting the ring gear on a flywheel.......
looking at the steel pipe from the inside it clearly looked like the housing was drilled straight through, chamfered edges, and the steel pipe simply pressed in. no signs of the housing being casted over the steel pipe.I might be wrong but I'm fairly sure the steel pipes are cast into housing originally.