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PollyMobiles Rebuild

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
getting ready for MOT tday, I connected the battery, IGN on and the engine light was flashing?
eh what's going on kasandra? crank, and doesn't fire up. oh wtf not now :(

checked for fault codes in datascan and shows "error code E1 & E6 after 2 starts"
sensors say the injectors simply not firing, Oh come on! there's no faults with any connectors, injectors, ecu etc etc

was almost about to abort the MOT when I then realised I've inserted the spare key when I was fixing the suspension :rolleyes:
the master key was still in my pocket, used the proper key and wahey it fired up!:D:rolleyes: Doh
I did something very similar Paul. Did some work on the front brakes on my daughter's Primera P12, did one side, got back in the car to turn the steering straight again, put the key in the ignition and it wouldn't turn/unlock the steering.:eek: Tried it about three times before I realised I was using the Micra key on my bunch of keys and not the Primera key, on her bunch, which was in the same pocket :oops:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I did something very similar Paul. Did some work on the front brakes on my daughter's Primera P12, did one side, got back in the car to turn the steering straight again, put the key in the ignition and it wouldn't turn/unlock the steering.:eek: Tried it about three times before I realised I was using the Micra key on my bunch of keys and not the Primera key, on her bunch, which was in the same pocket :oops:
hehe very easy to mistake em, I should mark out this spare key with big letters. least I know the NATS works and what the error code is
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
removed both arms to inspect

IMAG7521.jpg


looking at the left arm, it has the same insufficient welding as the right arm that failed :eek:

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wirebrushed and grinded it back down to metal

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welded it back up as advised in 1" steps and repainted

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top & bottom bearings arrived

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wacking the slightly rusty old joints out was abit tricky, just needed persistance

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cleaned & fitted the new bearings. also packed it with grease to keep water & rust off the bearing as long as I can.

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replaced the top bearings

IMAG7540.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
she passed :D
got chatting to few bodyshop guys passing by who were curious about her.
MOT guy said cos it's pre-95, it doesn't need to meet the strict catalyst test or the limits are alot looser, long as it doesn't smoke.

treated self to abit of maccyD :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cutting apart the old spherical bearings from the suspension to learn how different they're made and how they wear out.
top: GEH17 bearing I used for the custom lower arm.
bottom: heavy-duty bearing that's used on the BC V1 coilover top mount.

IMAG7543.jpg


the top bearing that came with the coilover uses a strong solid 1-piece steel outer casing and surprisingly the thin lining is a split 2-piece teflon impregnated bronze mesh.

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the GEH17 bearing I used for the lower arm has a weaker split outer steel casing. the solid bronze lining is fused onto the steel and then coated with a thick teflon layer.

IMAG7550.jpg


both spheres are the same size but with different hole sizes.

IMAG7553.jpg


The BC top mount (left) has a much taller stronger outer casing wrapping the sphere. The larger surface area can support alot more thrust loads and last longer but has limited swivel angle.
The GEH17 bottom joint (right) has a shallow weaker outer casing. The smaller surface area limits how much thrust load it can withstand and wears out faster but has a wide swivel range allowing the lower arm to swing freely.

IMAG7555.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the parents 307 exhaust has just started to blow before it's MOT was due, bout 1-2yrs since it was fitted.
such a silly design where the thin guage flared pipe & steel clamp rusts real fast and ONLY at that joint while the rest of the mid-pipe was fine.

a new mid-pipe & silencer are £40-50 each just to fix that tiny section!
fook that :rolleyes:

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rather than waste money buying a whole new section, I machined a collar sleeve out of spare scrap pipe, welded onto the silencer and joined to the remaining mid-pipe with a £1.50 clamp
should give it afew more yrs of use :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
changed the fuel filter after the MOT. opened it up with tin-snips and the fuel appeared abit murky brown with lots of tiny rust particles.
the steel fuel filler pipe is rusting away badly and contaminating the tank and poor walbro pump. I'm gonna need to fabricate a new filler pipe out of stainless.

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went with afew car friends down to scarborough again for the StaticRoyals car meet

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Ralph needed some stainless pins made for his trailer

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it has an M4 thread going through the round rod, which is difficult to keep centred on a pillar drill so instead I quickly welded this simple jig (on top of a spare old jig I once made for notching pipes on the lathe) to clamp the rod and drill holes through it consistantly.

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setup on the lathe like this

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machined the pins

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clamped em on the jig and started the hole with a centre-drill

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drilled through with a 3.5mm bit

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and tapped

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3 finished trailer pins :D

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
went down to Malton on a sunny saturday morning to visit Abi & Jonny who came up from salisbury for the week, and spend all day driving em around the yorkshire moors, whitby & scarborough

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at whitby I noticed the gear stick began to feel very sloppy front-back but still solid when side-side?
looked underneath and the gearbox selector connection is still intact.

took the gear knob & gaiter off and yea, the two bolts holding the gear stick ball joint housing is loose.
so I had to find somewhere to park with one wheel up a high kerb, crawled under the low car and tighten those bolts.
once again kasandra throwing a tantrum whenever I take her out for a long drive :rolleyes:

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driving them back home in malton at night with this rain storm was interesting and then driving back home through the pitch black, flooded b-roads at 50mph with my candle headlights barely lighting anything up and then smashing through a deep puddle was scary. it took so much concentration till we got back on the motorway.
 
went down to Malton on a sunny saturday morning to visit Abi & Jonny who came up from salisbury for the week, and spend all day driving em around the yorkshire moors, whitby & scarborough

View attachment 55658

View attachment 55654

View attachment 55656

at whitby I noticed the gear stick began to feel very sloppy front-back but still solid when side-side?
looked underneath and the gearbox selector connection is still intact.

took the gear knob & gaiter off and yea, the two bolts holding the gear stick ball joint housing is loose.
so I had to find somewhere to park with one wheel up a high kerb, crawled under the low car and tighten those bolts.
once again kasandra throwing a tantrum whenever I take her out for a long drive :rolleyes:

View attachment 55657

driving them back home in malton at night with this rain storm was interesting and then driving back home through the pitch black, flooded b-roads at 50mph with my candle headlights barely lighting anything up and then smashing through a deep puddle was scary. it took so much concentration till we got back on the motorway.
Since having my bmw with low mounted front fogs I see the need for them. They do a really good job of illuminating the floor in front of you along b roads like that.


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Since having my bmw with low mounted front fogs I see the need for them. They do a really good job of illuminating the floor in front of you along b roads like that.


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The issue I have during wet nights is that wet tarmac doesn't reflect any headlight back, so appears murky black amongst the dark surrounding. Puddles are slightly darker but only seen at the last sec. Some b-roads barely have any visible clean cats eyes too.
Full beams just make the road & background the same flat mud colour or brighten up the reflective signs soo much it glares back which makes it worse.

I'm not sure how fog/driving lights down the bumper like a superS beaming at shallow as angle along the wet road can help?
 
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Maybe it's more down to the position and shape of them that does it then, they are also a very yellow light which apparently helps with things.


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
these standard H4 bulbs I have are pretty weak so I think I'll have to upgrade to the brighter blue ones I used yrs before which was alot better.
it's not often I drive in such difficult conditions so fitting front fogs or a superS bumper ain't a priority. I'll just have to eat more carrots :p
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Re wiring with new ceramic connectors, and re-wiring with new relays (one per function) and a feed taken from the alternator makes a big difference. You then get a full 12v feed at the bulb.
 

frank

Club Member
Or for the rally car look a LED light bar makes a massive difference.
+1 on led,s , they have come a long way, this is my bike one fitted in the van alongside the stock halogen for comparison, both on dipped headlights, far brighter but crap antidazzle beam pattern tho

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SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
You should see the light from the rally car on full beam with x2 160w H4 bulbs, a full length LED light bar and the x2 LED corner lights. [HASHTAG]#brighterthanthesun[/HASHTAG]
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the plastic lid for the catch can was fairly stuck onto the glass jar for some reason so I had to hack it off and make another lid

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catch can caught 100ml after 1303miles (76.7ml/1000m)

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Upgrading headlight bulbs

So after recently struggling to see the unlit B-roads at night when it rained, I searched through the garage and found I had afew spare bulbs in the box.
(from left-right: unknown bulbs I'm currently using, +50% super-brilliance, +50% super-brilliance blue, Phillips bulb from the spare headlight unit I brought)

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the current bulb are quite dull, no idea what brand/model it is but I'm guessing it's bog standard.

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the halfords +50% super-brilliance appear exactly the same as the current bulbs

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1 472SB.jpg


the halfords +50% super-brilliance Blue has a much brighter & whiter core.
I used to run these but then one of em burnt out and popped the old dim ones back on.

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2 472SBB.jpg


the Phillips bulbs from the spare headlights are actually inbetween the 472SB and the blue 472SBB, not bad

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ok so my fav is the blue 472SBB but I only have 1 so would have to buy another.
since halfords offer BOGOF, I may as well upgrade to the +90% extreme-brilliance bulbs for £21 (only £4 more).

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is it brighter than the 472SB, yup

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is it brighter than the 472SBB, yup only just but imo the blue bulb has a cooler/whiter tint while the new bulb is still towards the beige spectrum

5 472XB vs SBB.jpg


quick GIF comparing all the bulbs

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driving through the unlit countryside while it's dry, I barely notice much difference imho.
the real test will be the next time I drive through the rain at night :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
it's time to remove & recondition the rusty rear axle.
most of the nuts & bolts loosened off ok but two of the upper trailing arm bolts have seized onto the bush inserts as usual.
also noticed the dust boots on the rear calipers aren't fully inserted into the groove and could let dirt in so they'll also need sorting.

IMAG7617.jpg


this is one of the issues with the coilover adjustable spring perch that sits in the hole of the spring cup, it blocks drainage so all the spray & debris simply pools inside this cavity forever till the axle rusts through.

I just had an idea of turning the whole thing upside down attaching the adjustable perch onto the chassis by bolting it onto the spring top cup, the spring will sit on the axle cup as normal, water can drain out of the hole and access for spring adjustments will be hugely easier.

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all the arms removed except for the seized upper arm

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rear axle removed

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got quite alot of crusty rust to chip off.
good news is the axle's in good solid shape and it's just surface rust

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cut off all the useless ABS brackets.

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just needs a good thorough wirebrush & grinding tomorrow before spraying it with hammerite
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
took all day to carefully chip/scrape & wirebrush all the crusty rust off the entire axle, urgh so labour intensive wish I had a big shot blaster.

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first coat of hammerite took a whole can. gonna get some silver hammerite tomorrow for the 2nd coat

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managed to hammer one of the seized trailing arm bolts out of the bushing

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but the other bolt is proper seized no matter how hard I whack it

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so I had to drilled through it

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till I could knock it out

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ready with new bolts

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SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Time for lots of copper grease on the bolts? Also you could improve the bushes with some inserts and/or add some 2 part polyurethane added the the gaps?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Time for lots of copper grease on the bolts? Also you could improve the bushes with some inserts and/or add some 2 part polyurethane added the the gaps?
Yup loadsa grease. No benefit stuffing that bushing cos 90% of the volume is still made up of soft squishy oem rubber.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
found more rust holes while wirebrushing the rear arches

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but after removing the filler pipe plastic splash guard & scraping all the trapped mud & crusty rust off, it revealed all these holes to my horror :eek:
oh shyte more work & money. this explains why there's rust particles in the old fuel filter.
why the feck did nissan make this highly exposed pipe out of mild steel?

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new filler pipes on ebay are a rediculous £80 for just abit of bent tube :rolleyes:
I was gonna fabricate a stainless filler pipe but with only a week till my next local meet, Matt found someone in york who's selling one for £30, that'll keep it going for abit while I fabricate a stainless version.

this rusted mount also crumbled off the chassis cos the silly U-shape bracket trapped mud and rusted the whole section off into another hole

IMAG7653.jpg


rear damper top cup crumbling apart

IMAG7654.jpg


top of the arch near the filler head needs alot of surface rust removing

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damn it I have soo much welding to do :(
 
found more rust holes while wirebrushing the rear arches

View attachment 55731 View attachment 55734

but after removing the filler pipe plastic splash guard & scraping all the trapped mud & crusty rust off, it revealed all these holes to my horror :eek:
oh shyte more work & money. this explains why there's rust particles in the old fuel filter.
why the feck did nissan make this highly exposed pipe out of mild steel?

View attachment 55733 View attachment 55735 View attachment 55728

new filler pipes on ebay are a rediculous £80 for just abit of bent tube :rolleyes:
I was gonna fabricate a stainless filler pipe but with only a week till my next local meet, Matt found someone in york who's selling one for £30, that'll keep it going for abit while I fabricate a stainless version.

this rusted mount also crumbled off the chassis cos the silly U-shape bracket trapped mud and rusted the whole section off into another hole

View attachment 55729

rear damper top cup crumbling apart

View attachment 55730

top of the arch near the filler head needs alot of surface rust removing

View attachment 55732

damn it I have soo much welding to do :(

MOT?

Surprised that rust passed its last MOT, especially as you the customer found it & not your MOT inspector who may need retraining as most ordinary owner drivers rely on them for their safety?

Here in Exeter any weakened perished metal within a 10 inch radius of any structural or safety critical areas would be multiple reasons for MOT refusal, in this case, rendering it beyond economic repair.
 
MOT?

Surprised that rust passed its last MOT, especially as you the customer found it & not your MOT inspector who may need retraining as most ordinary owner drivers rely on them for their safety?

Here in Exeter any weakened perished metal within a 10 inch radius of any structural or safety critical areas would be multiple reasons for MOT refusal, in this case, rendering it beyond economic repair.
Rear arches only needed aggravating with a wire brush by the looks of it to perforate into a hole. Gone are the days of mot testers mindlessly stabbing the car with a screwdriver, they have special 'rust testing' tools and aren't allowed to go mad. I've had rustier looking k11s go through mot's.


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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I doubt the tester would've been able to expose these holes cos most of them were hidden under a thick, hard, crusty layer of rust (I had to hammer & wirebrush the dark oxide away quite extensively & aggressively to expose em), caked under a load of mud, difficult to access with a wheel in the way and the holes are no where near structural or suspension parts.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
removed the filler pipe. the underside exposed to all the wheel spray has rusted away

IMAG7656.jpg


the top side against the bodywork is just surface rust

IMAG7657.jpg


this bit is simply swiss cheese. interesting to note that the spring loaded nozzle for the unleaded fuel pump is a seperate piece inside. maybe this is where nissan can economically change the nozzles between unleaded & diesel micras rather than change the whole filler pipe?

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a whole load of mud debris from wirebrushing the wheel arch

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so the inner wheel well needs patching up where the filler pipe was mounted

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the lower cup that shrouds the damper top rubber mount is abit perished but the main strut tower steel is fine, so I'll need to cut & replace the cup

IMAG7666.jpg


the top of the wheel well around the fuel filler has alot of surface rust and afew pin holes from all the caked mud. it's very difficult to access with power tools so I'll only be able to clean it up and underseal it the best I can.

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the inner skin has rusted off the wheel arch lip. the lip simply traps in all that moist mud and leads to this

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begin cutting out all the rotten holes

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the rear arms & panhard looking abit rusty

IMAG7644.jpg


dismantling it apart for cleaning

IMAG7645.jpg


the panhard/axle bushing is looking abit tatty & tired after years of repeatedly sliding it on/off the axle

IMAG7646.jpg


so I removed the PU bushing and gonna machine a fresh one

IMAG7647.jpg


this inner steel bushing have always been seized onto the axle stud as far as I remember

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so it's time to grind it off

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and machine a new one so it can easily slip on with the new bushing

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machined some new bushings from spare nylon I had

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assembling

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fits with precision and there's just enough give in the plastic bushing for bout 1-2 deg of longitudinal swing when the axle moves forward/backwards

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the rear of the sills was too rotten so I cut all this off and looks like I'll have to reconstruct the arch lip

IMAG7696.jpg
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cut out the perished cup shroud below the damper top mount. most of it was soo rusty I could almost peel it off the spot welds like a tin of spam

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I found the end caps from a welding canister was just the right diameter

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drilled the matching hole

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perfect and much stronger than the old one

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drilled & welded it on with some plug holes.

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just need to finish it off with the outer cover.

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welded up the back of the arch

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and welded up the inner wheel well. was very tricky to weld with difficult access, poor lighting and without blowing holes through the old tin foil body

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
welded a shroud over the top mount

IMAG7716.jpg


filled in this exposed top with weld

IMAG7718.jpg


CAD template for rebuilding the arch lip

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carefully welded it on

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tried to weld the inner skin of the arch to the outer skin but it was frustratingly difficult to access cos the car ain't high enough, garage is tiny and the arch ain't big enough to fit my head & this bulky weld helmet

IMAG7722.jpg
 
Hello, if you let me ask something, I'd be glad to help.

My request is if someone has repaired a Nissan Micra K11 distributor, can you share the dimensions of the bearing and seals?

Part number I can not find them as details.
The Distributor's number is:


Thank you very much for your cooperation
 
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