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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ordered a pillar pod tday. will be cut n blended into the pillar trim

DSC03583.JPG


also some graphite powder for the clutch release bearing

interested in a pulsar short shifter but at £47 i think i'll try weld my own version with a spare lever here first
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
noticed a slight issue with the current intercooler piping in that the abs modulator will be in the way so after relocating the battery i'll prob need to buy more silicon elbows to re-route the pipework

also shero has sold his helix paddle clutch kit but he has the helix organic plate for £50. i'll go for that cos in helix website the range of group A 184mm organic plates are rated at 112, 159 & 238ftlbs (may prob also be kinder to the expensive flywheel) and if it still slips then i buy the paddle helix off matt
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday i got the battery cable, silicon elbows, stepped drill bit, weld gloves & weld mask.

one concern bout the £23 auto darken mask is that it's plastic n flimsey. are plastic weld masks normal and safe? or shall i return it and get a more £££ metal one? also there's no tint adjustment. like it came from £ shopfwn
 

Shaun

***StaGGeRed***
Mck just used a plastic one and it was fine. Well tbh he didn't use it all the time either... *tut, tut*
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
what bout having adjustable tint knob, or will the fixed shade 4-11 be enough to not blind myself. how do ppl test em. pop in front of cars highbeams?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this kit arrived

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thermoplastic autoshade mask

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pretty bog standard. to test the shade i ended up just looking closely at a clear light bulb and switch it on-off for the past half hour :p works a treat
wether the plastic'll save my face is another matter

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now to make my diy battery terminals. remove 2cm of sheath. the core bunch is 8cm dia, exactly the same as the copper pipe, but when it frays out, its tricky to insert

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so i flared the copper pipe to guide the wires in

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carefully guide & twist the wire cores into the pipe

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crush a thin metal strip on either side of the pipe end to crimp it against the core to prevent it slipping out

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measure 2cm out and crush the pipe flat where the cable core ends

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to get this

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drill bolt holes to fit like this

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heatshinked the terminals

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the silicon elbow is trimmed to fit it close to the turbo inlet

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rough layout of recirc valve

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
you wont need fireproof overalls, i've watched my friend weld in shorts and vest top without any problems

and nice work with the new + wiring

arc welding in shorts?

i don't think i'll take a chance in skipping for my safety

glad ya'll like the cabling. will fit it soon
 
Although i would not recommend welding in shorts! I really dont think you need an apron, decent pair of jeans and an old cotton jumper would be just fine, oh, and some decent shoes:) And the helmet looks fine! Looks like youv got a decent pair of gloves there too:)
just get stuck in mate(Y)
P.s, is that a volvo recirc valve you'v got there? iv got the same one:)
 
Oh and never wear synthetic materials, I did whilst helping by holding something in place and ended up with welding slag burning holes in my sleeves
 
you wont need overalls unless your welding above you like under the car with you under it but something deent will do i wouldnt bother forking out for it all mate
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i have a mechanics overall, they're usually flame retardent aren't they? like from grinder spray etc

noddie: its from a saab 9000
 
i have a mechanics overall, they're usually flame retardent aren't they? like from grinder spray etc

noddie: its from a saab 9000
Oh yeah:) thats what i got it off:) dunno why i thought it was volvo.
yeah, overalls will be fine mate, especialy with the dc inverter as you wont get all that splatter going everywhere.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
right cheers guys, prob start practice on weekend

i'll need a cone filter that'll fit the 60mm pipe, preferably k&n. since filters are listed mostly under what car model they fit, anyone know which model would be 60mm. or do i have to drive to demontweeks and try various ones?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yep just looked at that and after googling which kits contain the 60mm cone filter i traced it down to:

57-0414.jpg

57-0414 induction kit using the RC-1624 filter for a
FIAT SEICENTO
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0414

bout £61
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/57-0414-K-N-57i-Induction-Kit-Fiat-Seicento-1-1-00-06-/360333787727?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e591424f

57-0184-1.jpg

or 57-0184-1 that uses the bigger RC-9830 filter for a
RENAULT CLIO 1.2L
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=57-0184-1

bout £76
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/K-N-57i-INDUCTION-KIT-RENAULT-CLIO-1-2-96-98-57-0184-1-/270531361466?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3efcecfaba

can't find supplier who just sells the filter themselves
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Mix and match ftw haha.

If i hadnt have already had mine, i would have used a one for a bike aswell, as the dimensions for one model pretty much line up perfectly with the supercharger inlet. :)
 
Can i ask why you are looking for it to be 60mm? surely the inlet for your turbo isnt that big? are you going to run the afm between the turbo and filter? Ed(fusion) said that that caused problems when he tried to map a car set up like that and that it is best to have it just before the TB:)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Can i ask why you are looking for it to be 60mm? surely the inlet for your turbo isnt that big? are you going to run the afm between the turbo and filter? Ed(fusion) said that that caused problems when he tried to map a car set up like that and that it is best to have it just before the TB:)

yea the turbo inlets 60mm dia. i used 60mm 90deg elbow to try avoid fouling the rad fan. 60mm pipe goes up, across the manifold and into the 60mm filter near the washer bottle. afm stays near the TB
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so i made this mounting bracket to secure the battery

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tried cutting the cable with a hacksaw but it made a hash of the wires meaning it can't fit into the copper pipe, so tried to crush it back down with a jubilee and grinded the ends flat. eventually worked.

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ground & live cables

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drilled hole through gromet n fed cable through

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reinserted bulkhead gromet

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roughly hook up live wire

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grinded the cross beam under the passenger seat and bolted the ground cable up.

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drilled mounting holes, double checked it didn't go through fuel/brake lines beforehand.

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bolted up

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excess cable to trim

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removed battery tray, moved relay boxes and the live cable needs sorting next

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lots more space. i figure if the abs unit/pipes are in the way, i could route the intercooler pipes up behind the rad through the space revealed and straight over to the TB

DSC03582.JPG


hooked up the cables n tested the starter, it works fine. finish the rest tomorrow night
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
pillar gauge pod arrived

DSC03583.JPG


test fit the wideband gauge

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this huge pipe came too. good thing my m8 driving tday has a modern mondeo to fit it in cos half of it'll prob stick out in my boot

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grind the bolt flat. now this will need insulating cos you definately do not ever want this part to touch any other metal n short out

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used the plastic cover from the gutted loom

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goes here

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routed the cables under the abs module and straight into the cabin

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insulated

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through the bulkhead

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ziptied along the sill tops

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and onto the battery

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battery connected. need to make a +ve terminal plastic cover but ducktape'll do for now

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ziptied relays aside

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cut off the un-used original -ve cable

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upon starting, i sense it's performing a little weaker than the normal battery cos now the starter motor occasionally clicks initially and then 2nd time it cranks but stuggles slightly. i think the ground point under the seat is causing a higher resistance. will prob anchor a longer cable towards the sill or maybe i should buy another cable routed all the way back to the starter ground.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cheers very much

goin to n from work tday the starter motor again just clicks several times as though there's not enough juice for the starter solenoid to push the pinion all the way into the flywheel teeth in order to start the motor. eventually after 10 rapid clicks it overcomes the cranks compression stage and fires up slowly.

is the chassis causing the resistance i say? so i used a longer ground cable anchored to the bulkhead, same issue. so i extended the ground back towards where the original -ve is both bolted to the chassis & thick leads to the starter casing, it starts perfectly instantly. ok so the body might not be conductive enough and prob need to make another cable leading directly to the starter.

but then when i unbolted the extended cable from the original -ve anchor point i noticed the -ve lead bracket & chassis point is rather corrided with dull white oxide. so i grinded both surfaces clean, installed the original -ve starter ground lead to chassis and reconnect the battery -ve to the crossframe under the seat and wahey it starts very strongly every time:grinning:

DSC03606.JPG


so the problem was actually just poor starter -ve grounding due to minor surface corrosion of the connection.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well, had a go at arc welding over weekend

setup in garage
DSC03613.JPG


cold starting an arc is soo tricky cos it keeps sticking but once the tips warmed up its abit easier to start.

tried the match striking technique and the rapid poking and found that if i'm too gentle n cautious it will stick. but it i just go for it n keep it moving it behaves.

when the surface is bare metal it's really quiet, just high pitch squeeeeeee. tis only on dirty metal like the dustbin or on high amps that it spatters.

first attempts abit meh
DSC03614.JPG


on a thicker brake disc i forgot to turn the amps up hence no penetration and just globs up on the shiny disc (like trying to solder on dirty surface). wacked up amps for 2.5mm+ lotsa sparks and stick consuming rapidly but now there's nice penetration (at top)

DSC03615.JPG


2nd try at thin panels and doin nothing but burn holes mostly. but found that if i keep the molton pool going side to side at 10mm rather than keeping a steady line, its less likely to burn through, although with less weld buildup

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need alot! more practice

think maybe i should get exhaust shop to weld the wideband bung onto me SS pipe (only one chance with SS pipe whereas i'll prob just burn through it), and i weld a bung on the steel turbo inlet pipe for the recirc valve.

#####

this morning i had a meeting in sheffield so the office had already got my tickets for 9am train from middlesbrough to arrive at 11am (originally wanted to drive there in my car but meh, work policy) and my other colleage would join me at yarm station.

set off towards work abit early in hope to park at the office and walk to the station but of all days, tday every traffic light was red and all drivers & lorries were slow GRRR

after parking, i only had 8mins to run across town to the station, omg i'm soooooo un-fit. got to station breathless n wrecked only to find the train was on the opposite platform and left FFS!

thought there was no point waiting for next train cos i'll prob be late. so rang office for the meetings postcode, ran back to the car and set off racing towards sheffield for 11am in a sort of car-vs-train topgear challenge :)

coughing from exhaustion n dehydration i got there eventually at 11.05am...meanwhile, my colleage was delayed for an hr. so the car wins whoohoo :)

cruised back home after meeting, checked milage n surprisingly even after kaning the crap outa her to sheffield and cruise back, she did 35mpg. lovely
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
15? either ur runnin a v8 or somethings really wrong. even after a trackday i get at least 25mpg.
check ur not leakin fuel, all temp/o2/afm/tps sensors workin in spec, injectors not leakin or sticking, plugs are not fouled
or better yet, plug a consult diagnostic to it to see the data readings
 

frank

Club Member
those welds aint bad for 1st attempt paul :grinning: you might be best to practice with 2.5mm rods eh, 1/8 (3mm) is the biggest ones mine will handle on full chat
 
is 2.5 the thinnest you can get frank? and i thought those machines had an anti sticking device fitted for striking the arc?
low amps and thin rods for thin metal eh paul:)
I would go down your local scrap metal place and just get a loada angle and box, make yourself a little frame for something as a first project:)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
its a start frank but i could prob do better next time. when i lift the stick at the end of the weld i always find the hot tip just keeps burning abit and once its cooled its surrounded by flux so i either have to trim the flux with pliers or just keep banging the tip onto the surface to try chip the flux off till is sparks again, tis annoying.

what happens when i use bigger rods other than not being consumed as quickly? prob burn through sheet metal i feel?

noddie, i'm using 1.6mm mild steel rods.
i think i'll need to put some sorta heat sink behind sheet metal like copper plate so the base metal doesn't burn through as easily.

yea i def ned to track some loca scrappy for spare metal and build a practice frame.
another thing i need to figure is how to weld think plates onto thinner plates (like the wideband bung onto a thinner SS exhaust) cos the thinner plate tended to just melt away.
 
its a start frank but i could prob do better next time. when i lift the stick at the end of the weld i always find the hot tip just keeps burning abit and once its cooled its surrounded by flux so i either have to trim the flux with pliers or just keep banging the tip onto the surface to try chip the flux off till is sparks again, tis annoying.

what happens when i use bigger rods other than not being consumed as quickly? prob burn through sheet metal i feel?


noddie, i'm using 1.6mm mild steel rods.
i think i'll need to put some sorta heat sink behind sheet metal like copper plate so the base metal doesn't burn through as easily.

yea i def ned to track some loca scrappy for spare metal and build a practice frame.
another thing i need to figure is how to weld think plates onto thinner plates (like the wideband bung onto a thinner SS exhaust) cos the thinner plate tended to just melt away.

Thicker rods need more amps to melt them properly, so no good for low amp work.
Yeah, a heat sink is a good idea. big lumps of copper arnt that cheap though. you can also weld in sections and allow cooling time in between.
as for welding thin to thick, you have to practice directing the arc/heat more at the thicker metal and let the weld pool melt the thinner metal, tricky business. practice practice practice eh:)
 
15? either ur runnin a v8 or somethings really wrong. even after a trackday i get at least 25mpg.
check ur not leakin fuel, all temp/o2/afm/tps sensors workin in spec, injectors not leakin or sticking, plugs are not fouled
or better yet, plug a consult diagnostic to it to see the data readings

im going to have to ive got 120miles from a full tank and it a bit under half a tank!
 

frank

Club Member
you,ll soon get the hang of striking up the welding rod paul, just strike it hard for the 1st touch to clear any flux from the tip eh
here,s an edge weld of half a mil thick galvanised steel (bodypanel thickness) and a 2.5mm and a 1/8 rod

 

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you,ll soon get the hang of striking up the welding rod paul, just strike it hard for the 1st touch to clear any flux from the tip eh
here,s an edge weld of half a mil thick galvanised steel (bodypanel thickness) and a 2.5mm and a 1/8 rod
Show off :p
Looks good! You couldnt do that with an old buzz box. Now for a butt weld:p
 
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