to protect the cat i think fuz, on a long motorway hill for instance where wot could be held for several minutesI've just got mine unplugged, I understand it prevents accelerator enrichment at higher speeds? a fuel economy thing?
So is the idea you turn it on when you're cruising?
I've just got mine unplugged, I understand it prevents accelerator enrichment at higher speeds? a fuel economy thing?
So is the idea you turn it on when you're cruising?
Sounds like I should probably connect it up...Yea I normally switch it off to prevent it leaning out dangerously when WOT full boost in 4th 5th.
I only switch it on optionally during heavy congestion cos it allows the ecu to fast idle when it detects it's still in-gear & above 5mph (to help prevent engine falling below idle speed while crawling along so I don't have to touch the heavy clutch or throttle)
The CG13 in a mini doesn't spend much time @ WOT in any gear.... Ha ha does 0-100 in about 8 secs... So the cat should be OK.to protect the cat i think fuz, on a long motorway hill for instance where wot could be held for several minutes
where,as 1st 2nd and 3rd tend to be held at wot for short durations
Sounds like I should probably connect it up...
The CG13 in a mini doesn't spend much time @ WOT in any gear.... Ha ha does 0-100 in about 8 secs... So the cat should be OK.
Is it likely to be a problem that the car was tuned without it connected?
Way back when, we still disconnected the speed sensor on NA maps to avoid either running rich in 1st-3rd or lean in 4th & 5th, (depending on how the car was mapped).
The speed sensor disconnect is mainly applicable to forced induction, no effect on NA.
I think this may be causing mine to run to rich when accelerating in 1st, 2nd or 3rd... The mapping was done on a rolling road, but would have been in a high gear like 4th or 5th, where the ECU natually leans out. What colour is the wire to the ECU I think I will try a switch inline to see what affect it has. Although I do like the speed related stuff and the higher idle (1000rpm) is where I would like the engine to idle all the time, but my playing around with the Nistune software seems to make zero difference to the idle speed...
Im pretty sure the speed sensor is still attched on mine. That might be the thing I remember reading about but then forgot about doing. :S Can't say i've noticed any lean issues in 4th / 5th mind. Been ages since i've looked at any map data.
At last I have read the whole thread, took me 4 days or so but I have done it.
All I can say is wow Paul you are amazing, I will never do anything like this to my k11 but the way you go about creating your blog is like a haynes manual that has just been smacked with the sensible stick.
Its like a step by step, how to and instructional wiki all rolled into one.
Have to say though when you first started getting problems with that forged engine I kept saying to myself he needs to deal with the added crankcase pressure, I had to hold back the erger to chime in on the subject but left it. Then someone else brought the subject up and you did consider looking into testing it but I don't think you ever got round to doing it?
I remember back to my youth in the late 70s early 80s and my m8s used to run modified minis and they always had to enlarge the breather pipe holes on there rocker covers due to the increased pressure from raising compression and the rest.
On a personal note..
Love what you have done with your k11 and find your posts about your struggle with mental health a big help to me, I too have been going through a tough time lately and have been diagnosed with depression (the med's help) long story for another time maybe.
Anyway was wondering if that lady from 'mind' ever got back to you?
It's quite interesting to see how Neil has gone about sorting the angle of the wishbone.
Also, i'm sorry to say Paul but swapping steering racks is a right pain the the bottom. Pretty much everything gets in the way of it. I just hope you have more luck getting the track rod ends to shift as mine took alot of effort and even then i needed to replace one of them
It was the nuts on the track-rod ends that i had problems with. But thinking about it i could have just unwound the track rod ends from the rack. Undoing the pas hydraulic connections it's too hard and if i remember correctly your universal joint on your steering column should work with the later pas rack. I only had to change my universal joint on my steering column and the non-pas rack has a smaller splined shaft.
One of the most difficult parts i found of the swap was getting the universal joint lined up and bolted up to the steering rack and getting the rack bolted up to the chassis. I guess as the rubber "U" mounts are a little oversized to stop the rack from moving which made getting the 4 M14 bolts back in was a real PITA. If you had another set of hands to help it makes life alot easier.
I wish you all the best Paul, you'll probably find the job a lot easier than i did.
*EDIT* You may have to disconnect your ARB from the wishbones to give you a bit more room when getting the steering rack out
Do the later 00-03 k11's PAS racks differ to your year ones then?
Also, I must see Neil's car sometime... 15:1 engine is awesome, would love to see some specs, next time you guys head to Blyton let me know!
Must have been another white micra I've seen at Blyton, my bad!
I can see why he wants to trailer Queen it, very rare car and I can imagine finding parts for engine/suspension etc is nigh on impossible
before neils briefing he wanted to warm up the car. the engine is so tight-strung with an extreme 15:1 compression that either it's too hard for the one gel-racing battery to crank, or his racing battery is getting old and can't hold enough juice, so he had to plug in a separate big heavy truck battery to assist.
After successfully fitting the gearbox tonight, I cranked over the SuperS to make sure everything was hooked up, this time with plugs in. The standard battery has quite a hard time cranking at ~13:1. Don't think I'll bother with a lightweight battery anytime soon.
a rosejoint wont last long on a daily driver tho paul, is there no way to raise the wishbone on the chassis mounts instead ?