• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'm monitoring my oil consumption at the moment Paul after tweaking the oil feed. I had quite a bit of oil flowing through the CHRA, which was contributing to a fair bit if windage.

I've got to pull the turbo as the oil return gasket is seeping from the CHRA and the link hose isn't flouro lined, which is a no-no. I've got a good 50mls in my drip tray, so that's something I'd like to rectify before I can get a meaningful figure on general consumption but it's nowhere near 1L per 260miles.
I'm gonna need to reapply alot more teflon tap to my oil return adapter to try stop this seeping leak. the garage floor yet again oily with drips from turbo.
I believe the 1L/260mile is mostly due to the forged piston engine rings/bores drinking oil.

during idle she no longer smokes oil but she does still smoke after long downhill coasting.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new wideband sensor arrived from ebay, seller was so slow.

IMAG3954.jpg


Neil Jackson with the white nismo March messaged me about teesside autodrome doing another evening trackday, of course I'll be up for it :D

13233405_10154140081216753_2045608409_n.jpg


so anyone in north east who'd fancy a ride, pop by the track next monday :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the side of the engine still stained with oil, notice the damp area coming from perhaps where that engine cover bolt threads through the head.

IMAG3956.jpg


cleaned inside the cavity with carb cleaner, looks mostly intact although the bolt doesn't go all the way through and oil could've seeped past the threads?

IMAG3960.jpg
IMAG3961.jpg


so I fitted a longer bolt and filled the hole with body filler to make sure nothing leaks out

IMAG3962.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ooh ooh, just browsing japday in youtube and found a trackside footage of my run at the 1st hairpin :)


0:26
1:28
2:47
4:03
5:22 caught up with yellow civic
6:09
7:10 nice remark :p
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
to trace where the turbo oil drain is leaking, I attached the camera & light like this

IMAG3963.jpg



it seems to be leaking between the blue fastening nut and the red hose socket core, maybe the cone seal ain't sealing properly? or the AN hose fitting ain't a good quality? maybe I also need to teflon tape the AN fitting threads?

btw Skinner the body filled cavity in the head has stopped the oil leak staining down the side.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the standard front engine mount with a matt humphris PU bushing insert

IMAG3966.jpg


I needed a 10mm steel tube as a bushing for the new mount (using separate metal bush incase I want to revert back to the original mount) and found the right dia from an old rear mount bracket

IMAG3970.jpg


here's the old soft rubber cusion between the engine bracket and the plastic front mount coupler

IMAG3971.jpg
IMAG3972.jpg


cut the tube out the old rear mount to match the original bush.

IMAG3973.jpg
IMAG3974.jpg


rather than make a completely new offset mount bracket (which is alot of work) let's work smarter not harder and simply re-use the original engine bracket and make a solid steel tube coupler to replace the rubber/plastic coupler. so drilled some square tube to insert the bushes into.

IMAG3975.jpg


spot welded the bushes in place, luv the MIG

IMAG3977.jpg


one solid engine mount coupler

IMAG3978.jpg
IMAG3979.jpg


went for a test drive and although it's reduced alot of the engine movement for a sharper gear shift and engine response, alot of vibration & noise from the injectors & pistons are transferred through the bulkhead and sounds like an air chisel only during acceleration (for a moment I thought the engine had lost all fluids and started piston slapping)


ok so a solid mount ain't suitable. let's try re-use the original mount coupler with the solid polyurethane bush insert but replace the rubber bushing with a solid one.
I found an old 30mm rear caliper piston fits nicely in the hole and will fill up the gaps between the metal bushing with weld

IMAG3980.jpg


all welded & grinded solid

IMAG3981.jpg
IMAG3982.jpg
IMAG3983.jpg


hybrid solid engine mount coupler

IMAG3985.jpg
IMAG3986.jpg



that's much better. the engine & gearstick movement is still restrained but it no longer sounds like a jack hammer.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday I removed & assessed the leaking AN fittings and the lack of, or thin tiny marks only around the outer edge of the female tapered cone seals seems to show that the AN fittings have a slightly pointy cone angle than the JIC cone resulting in the leaks.

so since no local shops sell em, let's try make some DIY tapered copper washers to seal the fittings. cut some copper pipe

IMAG3987.jpg


push it over this 3/8 extension to flare the end

IMAG3988.jpg


dremel cut the end off

IMAG3990.jpg


resulting in a rough tapered washer. tightening the fitting will crush mould the washer into shape

IMAG3991.jpg


insert washer inside and wrapped the threads in teflon tape

IMAG3992.jpg


wrapped the oil feed adapter with more tape

IMAG3993.jpg


wrapped the sump oil drain threads and a dab of grease to hold the washer in place

IMAG3994.jpg


all tightened up

IMAG3995.jpg


the weather tday is insanely irratic. rain followed by blazing sun 5mins then monsoon 5min then clear then rain :rolleyes:

went out when it briefly stopped raining and almost all of the leaks gone, there's only just a tiny smear of oil that seeps out.


ready for evening trackday tomorrow
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Teesside Autodrome - Evening trackday 23-05-2016

Arrived at the track 16:30 to sign-in, met up with Neil.
Last yr his nismo march broke down cos the dizzys finger notches that connects to the exhaust cam had broken off, no idea why cos there's no signs of the dizzy or cams causing any resistance.
Moved my kit into Neils truck.

IMAG3996.jpg


17:00 Sight Lap
Went out behind Neils white nismo march for a 3 sight laps to warm up the tyres & brakes.


17:08 Run 1
15/20 front/rear damper
50/50 brake bias
95% fuel
2.10/2.7bar front/rear warm pressure

RR tyre was a low 2.35bar but my tools locked in Neils truck.


@ 03:06 rich smoke from hitting limiter
@ 06:57 rich smoke from hitting limiter
@ 07:47 rich afterfire from hitting limiter over an apex bump
@ 08:03 slippery understeer on outer corner of the hill s-bend

Times:
0:57
0:58
0:56 traffic
0:57 traffic
1:01 traffic
0:57 traffic

0:55
0:56
1:00 traffic
1:02 traffic
0:56 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:58 traffic


17:50 Run 2
15/20 front/rear damper
50/50 brake bias
75% fuel
2.00/2.7bar front/rear hot pressure
RR tyre still 2.35bars

the catchcan jar for the (engine cover breather - turbo inlet) had unscrewed off so I screwed it back on.


@ 02:12 clio running wide at hairpin
@ 03:20 clio tail gating
@ 04:50 lifting & locking the inside rear wheel
@ 07:20 non-courteous saxo driver
@ 11:38 correcting high rpm lift-off oversteer
@ 13:00 following a fast black puma
@ 17:50 non-courteous 206 driver
@ 18:20 same non-courteous saxo driver

Times:
0:59 traffic
0:56 traffic
0:58 traffic

0:55
0:58 traffic
1:04 traffic
1:00 traffic
0:57 traffic

0:55
0:55
0:55
0:57 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:55 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:55 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:56 traffic
0:59 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:58 traffic


18:38 Run 3
15/20 front/rear damper
50/50 brake bias
55% fuel
2.00/2.7bar front/rear hot pressure

Got my foot pump & corrected the RR tyre pressure.

also oddly noticed the coolant expansion tank is getting abit full and overspilling.
blipping throttle and it doesn't bubble or overheat so HG is fine. back at home I just purge out all the air and the fluid level just returns back to a stable Max. maybe the hot session & hot thermostat is just boiling abit of coolant?

IMAG3997.jpg



@ 06:30 staying in 3rd through first few corners help stablise the exit
@ 08:26 correcting an oversteer
@ 08:27 bumping over the exit apex made it lose front grip, understeer and run wide onto the grass

Times:
0:56
0:55
0:55
0:55
0:54
0:55
0:54
0:53

19:17 Run 4
15/20 front/rear damper
50/50 brake bias
25% fuel
2.00/2.7bar front/rear hot pressure

Engine burnt up all it's oil so had to top up 500ml. hard to check oil levels when the whole paddock is full of slopes.


A very busy last session.
@ 07:30 following a big heavy powerful jaguar. it had good straight line power but sluggish braking & cornering

Times:
0:57 traffic
0:57 traffic
0:59 traffic
0:59 traffic
1:05 traffic
0:59 traffic
1:03 traffic
1:00 traffic

0:54
0:54

It's been a really good hot fun evening at the track.
I found that staying in 3rd gear at the first corner had gained 1-2sec.
Engine still drinks oil, smoking rich at WOT and maybe boiling some coolant but still working fine.

Sad news about Neils early departure home when I pitted back was that his bonnet pins wasn't locked in, so it flew open at speed and wrecking the windscreen & bonnet :(
Feel sorry for Neil but at least it only happened near the end of the day and he had alot of seat time with a good working march.

Packed up and returned home :cool:

IMAG3998.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
even after body filling that gap, it's still leaking oil. maybe from the top of the timing chain side cover?

IMAG3999.jpg


lets assess the brakes & tyres after the trackday.

Front right tyre 3.25 / 2.75 / 2.25

IMAG4000.jpg


Front left tyre 3.75 / 3.00 / 2.50

IMAG4002.jpg


Rear left tyre 2.25 / 2.75 / 3.75

IMAG4004.jpg


Rear right tyre 2.25 2.25 2.50

IMAG4006.jpg


all the tyres wearing at a nice slow pace over the past 2yrs

595rsr.jpg


but look at this rear right tyre shoulder. she suffers from so much body roll & uneven camber under hard cornering that the shoulder edge has worn prematurely down close to canvas.
this ain't safe and maybe caused the tyre to drop from 2.75 to 2.35bars whilst in storage for few weeks.
so before any more trackdays I'll need another expensive pair of semi slicks and fix that roll centre :/

IMAG4007.jpg


Front right pads

IMAG4001.jpg


Front left pads

IMAG4003.jpg


Rear left pads

IMAG4005.jpg


Rear right pads

IMAG4008.jpg


Front predator pads wearing at a nice consistant pace potentially lasting upto 10k of daily & track use. will soon need replacing so ordered another set.
The standard rear pads hardly wears at all.

pads.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Get your rear tyres swapped, so the outer edge is on the inside and use them on the track only. Loads of miles left in it :)
imo not worth the extra £10 hassle of swapping tyres over and especially not worth risking a high speed blow out on track.
so I'm thinking to make use of the remaining middle portion of the bad tyre, they'll prob only be good for afew drag strip runs.

then I replace a pair of tyres (to keep the crossweight setup constant) and move the new pair to the front and carry on.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just been looking back at my lap time history for teesside autodrome over the yrs and it's been a consistant improvement as myself & kasandra got faster :cool:

teesside lap history.jpg


2011 = high 65-70sec as I rapidly learn about the new track with the turbo standard engine, major boost leak, paddle clutch & JUN flywheel, T1R road tyres.
2012 = consistantly 57-60sec with the turbo standard engine, 200mm clutch and heavy flywheel, T1R road tyres.
2015 = constant 55sec with the turbo forged piston engine, 200mm clutch & JUN flywheel, 595RSR semi slick.
2016 = low 54sec with turbo forged piston engine with 12psi, 200mm clutch & JUN flywheel, 595RSR semi slick.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Some people worry to much about perfect tyres... but its your money/your call...

Useful for me, I got a set of 5 race wets for £25 off a racer who thought there were knackered as there is a slight flat spot on one of them. One of many tyres i have collected in the last week now got 20 tyres hiding in the garage :grinning: :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Some people worry to much about perfect tyres... but its your money/your call...

Useful for me, I got a set of 5 race wets for £25 off a racer who thought there were knackered as there is a slight flat spot on one of them. One of many tyres i have collected in the last week now got 20 tyres hiding in the garage :grinning: :)
I really have to get rid of these old 2 sets of R888/BBS wheels sitting in the garage for yrs taking up space and probably age hardening alot.
I should resolve this camber issue before resuming.
 

Andy_S

I Love Booooooost!
Club Member
I think I've got the same problem with the oil as u Paul. I'm just gonna swap my engine with the auto engine as that runs perfectly and try and find this oil leak on the other engine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I think I've got the same problem with the oil as u Paul. I'm just gonna swap my engine with the auto engine as that runs perfectly and try and find this oil leak on the other engine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mine is most probably non-fixable. one day will have to swap back to a standard auto block cos burning 1L oil per tank of fuel ain't economical.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new brake pads arrived

IMAG4009.jpg


and more LSD oil

IMAG4010.jpg


not much debris on the gearbox plug which is good

IMAG4011.jpg


gear oil is filthy with microscopic fine metal dust from the LSD

IMAG4012.jpg


new clear engine oil and LSD oil now :cool:
 
Paul. I had a watch of session 2 in my small amount of downtime :p
Jeez people need to learn to move over

Anyway the thing I noticed more than body roll was tyre fold. You were on the shoulders a lot
The only way to properly combat it would be to reduce the sidewall size

Have you checked your bumpsteer too?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Paul. I had a watch of session 2 in my small amount of downtime :p
Jeez people need to learn to move over

Anyway the thing I noticed more than body roll was tyre fold. You were on the shoulders a lot
The only way to properly combat it would be to reduce the sidewall size

Have you checked your bumpsteer too?
aye as I mentioned on the phone, the saxo & peugeot drivers etiquet were quite rude, annoying and potentially dangerous. had to go wide some point to avoid collision.

the front tyres tend to fold under cos they're only at 2bars while the rears at 2.7bar and so they lost abit of stiffness. this tyre pressure bias was the only way I found that reduced the horrid understeer since it's quite front heavy 62/38% front/rear bias. and the awful roll center & body roll doesn't help.

I like the look, feel, comfort & cost of the 50% sidewall profile so gonna look at other ways to improve the handling.

not checked bump steer yet.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
another thing to improve is to stop this LH catch can from vibrating/swing around freely and shield it better from the hot radiator

IMAG4015.jpg


so welded some reinforcement

IMAG4016.jpg


further reinforcement welds

IMAG4018.jpg
IMAG4019.jpg


reinstalled the stiffened section

IMAG4020.jpg


to easily shield the catchcan I simply cut some PVC pipe

IMAG4021.jpg


and it just clips around the jar :cool:

IMAG4022.jpg
IMAG4023.jpg


the two catch cans no longer move around and working better

IMAG4024.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
whilst chatting to h701 I almost forgot to remember if my old turbo was returned and the surcharge refunded.
turbo ordered & delivered 3rd May
posted old turbo back 16th May
delivered to CGB motorsport 18th May
still no £60 refund on my credit card 7 working days later.
will need to check with them next week.
 
aye as I mentioned on the phone, the saxo & peugeot drivers etiquet were quite rude, annoying and potentially dangerous. had to go wide some point to avoid collision.

the front tyres tend to fold under cos they're only at 2bars while the rears at 2.7bar and so they lost abit of stiffness. this tyre pressure bias was the only way I found that reduced the horrid understeer since it's quite front heavy 62/38% front/rear bias. and the awful roll center & body roll doesn't help.

I like the look, feel, comfort & cost of the 50% sidewall profile so gonna look at other ways to improve the handling.

not checked bump steer yet.
They were horrific, definitely driver training required

Definitely something to work at

Agree on the 50 profile they're much cheaper than a 45 and do alright
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
one of the printed catch can hose end has snapped again, so I tried to print this piece flat on the print bed for inserting copper pipe ends into but the tube was poorly supported, not perfectly round and would crack the print apart slightly

IMAG4027.jpg


when printing a large thick piece along the heated bed, it will always warp the edges, which is useless for sealing

IMAG4028.jpg


so tried to split the model in 2

IMAG4029.jpg


to retain the round hole

IMAG4030.jpg


but once again the large flat surface warps up

IMAG4031.jpg


redesigned to be slightly sturdier

IMAG4032.jpg
IMAG4033.jpg
IMAG4034.jpg
IMAG4035.jpg


each 3d printed layer is like a weak wood grain so any bending force on the hose ends will snap it

IMAG4036.jpg


so I printed the catch can with a 10mm hole where I can then insert 10mm copper tube to reinforce it

IMAG4052.jpg
IMAG4053.jpg


also to further strengthen the plastic skin during smoothing, I first brush acetone over the rough surface to encourage the big gaps across each layer to blend, followed by the vapour treatment to finalise the smoothing

IMAG4054.jpg
IMAG4055.jpg


to check how the new catchcan's working, I setup the cam & lighting

IMAG4056.jpg
IMAG4057.jpg



even after a short 14 mile trip it seems fine collecting alot of water vapour from the crankcase, especially during cruise with high inlet vacuum following through the catchcan and high speed cold air chilling the glass jar.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Max Plester sent me his gear selector linkage with pulsar short shifter from his March G# (with mid spoiler) for upgrading to ball bearing bushes.
When I recently drove his car at japfest, the gear stick was very sloppy and rattling.

IMAG4038.jpg


first thing I noticed was the pulsar shifter had a huge amount of play everywhere. the ball joint is very worn and has upto 1mm of slack

IMAG4039.jpg


the collar fits over the metal bush insert quite loosely

IMAG4041.jpg


the original bushes towards the gearbox end ain't too bad, roughly bout 0.2mm of twisting play

IMAG4042.jpg


dismantle the short shifter to assess the issues

IMAG4043.jpg


here's the short shifters brass ball joint in a worn plastic outer casing with 1mm of visible play, which contributes to loose shifts & rattling.

IMAG4044.jpg


the metal bush insert fits into the metal shifters hole with about 0.1mm of play. metal on loose metal won't help the vibrations.

IMAG4045.jpg


then I found that the ball joint outer casing was actually cracked and could cause the loose fitment

IMAG4046.jpg


popped the brass joint out for a clean

IMAG4047.jpg


enlarged the crack with a dremel so I could tighten the fitment with a layer of tape

IMAG4048.jpg


inserted back into the metal casing with some cellotape to squeeze the outer casing tighter and this has helped reduce the sloppy ball joint abit.

IMAG4049.jpg


the metal shaft also fitted loosely into the brass ball joint with more slack, so wrapped more cellotape to remove any slack

IMAG4050.jpg


I was almost close to suggesting Max to ditch the poorly made pulsar shifter and I just modify a spare standard shifter into what I'm using now.
This serviced short shifter has at least some more life restored into it.

IMAG4051.jpg


ordered some flanged bearings online.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Those short shifters are usually poor quality like that, that's why i ditched it (and because I selected 1st instead of 3rd on an event....!)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the flanged ball bearings from Simplybearings.co.uk arrived next day

IMAG4058.jpg


to disassemble this universal joint, I grind this small rivet off to hopefully knock the pin out but as usual the pin was rusted onto the metal bush insert

IMAG4059.jpg
IMAG4060.jpg


since the plastic outer bushing will be removed and the inner bush machined, I'll just saw inbetween the flange & joint to separate it

IMAG4061.jpg
IMAG4062.jpg
IMAG4064.jpg
IMAG4066.jpg


the plastic outer bushing simply pops out

IMAG4067.jpg


enlarge the holes to 19mm for the new bearings

IMAG4068.jpg


making the middle insert bushing between the twwo flange bearings required abit of precision metalwork

IMAG4069.jpg


completed joint

IMAG4070.jpg


now for the gearstick, there's a 0.135mm gap to the bearing so I wrapped a layer of 0.12mm electrical tape to reduce the slack

IMAG4071.jpg
IMAG4072.jpg


another precision made insert

IMAG4073.jpg


I needed a 0.65mm M8 washer inbetween the ball bearing and the bracket. closest thing was this M6 serrated lock washer but enlarging it to 8mm was very difficult

IMAG4074.jpg


instead I got some 0.6mm MIG wire coiled around a drill bit

IMAG4075.jpg


to make this thin washers for spacing the ball bearing inner race from the outer brackets

IMAG4076.jpg


ball bearing gearstick and universal joint fitted, alot more snug

IMAG4077.jpg
IMAG4078.jpg


fitting those tiny thin washers between the bearings and the gearbox-side selector flange will be a very annoyingly fiddly job Max, so I attached a bag with afew spares.

IMAG4080.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the clutch bite point has been feeling abit low, either the cable's stretched from the heavy PP or the cable bulkhead mounting needed spacing

IMAG4081.jpg


also need to fix how the cable end slots into the bulkhead mount (currently wrapped this metal collar over some ducktape)

IMAG4082.jpg


printed this adapter collar that fits snugly over the clutch cable end

IMAG4083.jpg
IMAG4084.jpg


and spaces it 15mm away from the bulkhead mount

IMAG4085.jpg
IMAG4086.jpg


so now I have an extra 15mm of adjustable thread to raise the bite point slightly further up (I previously had to tighten the adjuster all the way up the cable) and the clutch feels much better now

IMAG4087.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yesterday I fancied a long drive to the lake districts. Also a good time to record the oil catch can over long distances.


interesting to note that the effectiveness of the catch can is very dependant on keeping the glass jar cold (high temperature difference = more effective condenser).

condenses more during:
  • high speed 70mph air cooling
  • cold overcast ambient air temp
  • no sunlight heating up the glass
  • light throttle/high vacuum
  • especially when glass is chilled by rain
condenses less during:
  • below 50mph, less air cooling
  • warm sunny air temp
  • direct sunlight
  • under boost when PCV is closed and no vapour flows through catch can
Afew things to improve:
  • better insulating hoses to prevent vapours condensing too early inside & blocking it
  • more venting grills on the heatshield behind catchcan to allow air to flow through more easily
  • shield catchcan from sunlight
  • maybe add a water spray to further cool the catchcan for better condensation?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I wasn't happy with using the thin MIG wire as a washer on Max's bearing shifter cos I found it would get trapped in the threads and very difficult to remove the bolt.
I tried enlarging an M6 thin washer but was impossible.
so instead of drilling a smaller washer, what if I just grind off abit of the flanged bearing so I can use a larger M8 washer.

IMAG4088.jpg
IMAG4089.jpg


grinded 0.05mm off but it's getting close to the retaining clip for the metal shield and I don't have any M8 washer below 1mm thick.

the only washers that's thin & small enough are M6 washers, so decided to use M6 nut & bolts.
since it won't be spinning and only has to clamp together it's fine.

IMAG4091.jpg


for the gear stick, I used a thick flattened lock washer.

IMAG4093.jpg


posted to Max now.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wanted to remake the satnav mount and rather than rely on suction cups, which tend to fall off the windscreen, just keep it simple and mount it directly on the dash.

IMAG4094.jpg


the nut is stuck inside the dash like this

IMAG4097.jpg


while the removable mount above screws down into the nut

IMAG4095.jpg


satnav slots in place

IMAG4098.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cut some more vents in the heat shield behind the catchcan

IMAG4099.jpg
IMAG4100.jpg


and abit of paint

IMAG4101.jpg


wrapped the crankcase breather hose in insulation to try keep it warm

IMAG4102.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Aw I thought you were going to show us some ingenious internal power cable through the dash.

I don't like dangly cables to cig lighter socket


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
the satnav is only used occasionally during long trips so I have no requirement to integrate it.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after opening up that catch can heat shield and a long trip down to london, I noticed that neither of em have captured as much vapour as before.
maybe they're being heated too much by the hot turbo & radiator and preventing any cooling, even though they're in a small stream or cool air.

so I'm thinking of relocating them back to this cool left side of the bay behind the headlight and away from the stream of hot air coming from the radiator.

IMAG4104.jpg


the fuse box needs to shift over abit to make room

IMAG4105.jpg


after some thought on how to mount it, I made this bracket

IMAG4106.jpg


clamped the glass catchcan jars onto it

IMAG4107.jpg


and plumbed it up

IMAG4108.jpg


setup a camera to rec how its working. the left jar plumbs between the engine cover and air filter and the right jar plumbs between the crankcase and PCV.

IMAG4110.jpg



few things I noticed.
  • Initially when both jars are stone cold, they appear to condense the oil vapours fine. The crankcase-PCV jar begins to mist up once I drive.
  • Both jars working better for longer periods by keeping them away from heat sources.
  • The hot vapours from the crankcase seems to be slowly heating up the crankcase-PCV catchcan jar. With insufficient air cooling, the glass just gets warmer till there's no enough temperature difference to condense any vapours.
I'll need to form some sort of heat shield between the radiator and catchcans and make it scoop some cool air towards them.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before making the heat shield, this radiator fan relay was in the way so I wanted to relocate it further along

IMAG4116.jpg


got abit carried away with unwrapping the loom

IMAG4118.jpg


moved the relay

IMAG4119.jpg


rough heatshield test with card

IMAG4121.jpg
IMAG4122.jpg


after a cruise, I think it's helped keep the jars cool and condensing better :cool:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Considered making a "coolbox" Paul?
Aye.
A one piece steel enclosure would be hard to check levels and service.
A full box enclosure in a tight curvy area is a pita to construct.
Maybe a clear perspex split enclosure to allow easy checking and service while keeping the warm air away?

I just need a simple divider to keep radiator & engine heat away from the cans and allow fresh air to keep it cool.
 
Aye.
A one piece steel enclosure would be hard to check levels and service.
A full box enclosure in a tight curvy area is a pita to construct.
Maybe a clear perspex split enclosure to allow easy checking and service while keeping the warm air away?

I just need a simple divider to keep radiator & engine heat away from the cans and allow fresh air to keep it cool.
Steel and perspex would act more of an insulator. I'd use aluminium

The sides are fairly simple and you wouldn't want to fully seal it to allow air to flow out as long as there's a good ducted supply in you'll be fine
Inspection again is simple too. The lid on mine slides into a smaller channel and held down one side with r-clips on some 8mm stainless bolts with a hole through them
Add some sticky back foam more to prevent rattling than a seal and bingo

I'll share a drawing of mine with you as it's easier than trying to describe it
 
Top