Matt Endean needed some inserts and checked he has the same upgraded matt humphris mounts as mine, so printed a set in red that he requested
smoothed and posted
smoothed and posted
the flimsy flap only covers 1/2 the port and the LH flap was missing. so they always venting debris in & out. the other vent from closing doors is the cabin inlet vent above dash. to allow cabin airflow to vent out, think I'll cut some slots at the back of the spare wheel bay rather than by the splashing of the rear wheels.The flap is used for releasing overpressure when you slam the doors/boot shut. Deleting them is a bad idea...
I think the 15A is just incase u wanna run maxed out for thick stuff, which in my case is rare cos I'm mostly using this for light body panels.I have had the 151TE for over ten years now, should run on a 15A plug, but is fine on a normal 13A plug.
Mine has seen a fair bit of use and abuse over the years, but still works well (touch wood). One tip for storage is put WD40 on the roll of welding wire, it helps it flow through the feed cable. I always run the gas a max (6) and generally use CO2 gas as it is cheaper, but for nice welding the Argon/CO2 mix is better.
No gas gives a crap weldI think the 15A is just incase u wanna run maxed out for thick stuff, which in my case is rare cos I'm mostly using this for light body panels.
lubing the cable much like our clutch cables. wouldn't the oiled reel contaminate the weld or make the knurled feeder likely to slip?
how would I tell if gas is too much or little? I've seen that zero gas gives a sponge look and too much gas simply empties the tank quicker. I just crack the valve open till I hear some hissing when I trigger.
dunno if that bright yellow haze around the weld is oxidation?
was tempted on the CO2/argon mix for thin sheet and the double capacity can is £12 vs £9 normal weight.
with metal as cheese string thin as this, there's nothing to penetrate.The gas aids in penetration Paul, so with the gas on you'll not be getting the expected penetration. Pure CO2 has a deeper penetration than an Argon mix but not as clean a finish
Glad you're enjoying your new toy
yup saves maybe a kg, perhaps another planned obsolescence along with the sunroof draining into a closed sill beam?Nice and a bit of weight saving, both are rotten on ours too...
what about removing that deep spare wheel well for a flat boot floor? saves some weight and gives some space underneath (diffuser and/or independant suspension subframe?)Good work, I will do the same a some point soon(ish) every gram counts Our Micra is now over 40kgs lighter than it was from its initial build where most weight comes out.
I too am thinking about removing that section of the rear bumper, reduced aero and weight saving. Plus all this weight saving is from the very extreme of the car roll/turn centre so BIG win
Have thought of that too, however on road rallies and multi venue stage events we carry two spares so need the space to carry a car in the normal space and then one where the rear seats are.what about removing that deep spare wheel well for a flat boot floor? saves some weight and gives some space underneath (diffuser and/or independant suspension subframe?)
ah yeah for rallying in such remote areas it's a totally different requirement/priorities compared to the track circuitHave thought of that too, however on road rallies and multi venue stage events we carry two spares so need the space to carry a car in the normal space and then one where the rear seats are.
looks like my checklist for when I went on roadtrip to germany. after yrs of trackdays, you get a sense of what essentials to bring, what will likely to fail, what's not essential. save me from carrying literally the kitchen sinkOn road rallies and multi venue events I carry the follow :-
Spare throttle & clutch cable
Box of spare parts / bulbs / bolts etc.. including a HT lead (longest), spark plug, rotor arm, dizzy cap, wires, fuel pump, chemical metal.
Food / Drink
Plus other stuff I have forgotten, basically enough to completely fill a large blue Ikea bag.
Heavy, but useful when you need the parts which keep you in the event.
Plus on road rallies you have to run with the rear seats and 3/4 panel trim pieces in place.
When going to events where I can service the list is MUCH longer....looks like my checklist for when I went on roadtrip to germany. after yrs of trackdays, you get a sense of what essentials to bring, what will likely to fail, what's not essential. save me from carrying literally the kitchen sink
blimey, could rebuild the whole car with that heheWhen going to events where I can service the list is MUCH longer....
Events where stuff is ONLY carried in the rally car :-
- Spare wheels / tyres min. x4 usually x6
- box of fluids
- radiator and fan
- pop up tent to put stuff in
- laptop, cameras etc
- steering rack
- box of electrical parts, spare ecu, dizzy, sensors etc...
- drill & tek bolts
Events where we service out of my Focus road car
- All the above plus :-
- More wheels / tyres
- Spare, rear link arms, front shock & rear shock, clutch kit, front hubs, rear wheel bearing / hub,
- Another 4 boxes of parts
- Large 3 tonne jack, sill stands
- ground sheet & weights (old front discs)
Never! haha you know me I'm a designer, an engineer, a curious tinkerer, it's who I am and what I was meant for.You can't just buy things and leave them alone can you ahaha!
Always have to tinker
there's afew different recommendations out there about how to tune the wire speed & voltage for given weld:Mimes a different story as a graph
1-4 are linear ish but flat. 4-7 are what you expect. 7-10 is stupid
It's always worth knowing what wire speed you have on tap
Don't forget to take your wire size into account for the amount of metal you're chucking at it
0.8mm is far more stable and predicable to use as it doesn't dance all over the place like 0.6 does
The machine runs in that central finer tuned, controllable area
You can move slower too increasing your weld capability
I've used 0.6 wire once in the last 3 years and it was a forced decision (ran out of 0.8 wire)
yeah running the thicker 0.8 wire to bump the speed down to the more consistant range of the dial would be ideal, but I'm now stuck with a 5kg spool of 0.6 nowIndeed correct
Welsh is a catch 22
You need to set up the machine to weld
But you need to know how to weld to correctly set the machine
Setting the machine up in those 2 methods always leads to tge same result. X thick steel will always need Y amount of amps to melt it and Z amount of filler to fill the gap
Its a mathematical equation
The thing with our machines. Having a non linear feed we can change the wire thickness to keep the wire speed down in the tuneable/predictable area
Spotting per inch is how I weld body panels
Refer to project binky as a video example where he joins the panels with a series of spots
a lower Min amp range would be nice but think I just need more practice to be more consistant welding thin stuff with gas without blowing holes.For years I had a dedicated body work MIG, a Clarke pro 90. It had low min amps (20A I think) which was great for body work. After 10 years of hard service and God knows how many liners and tips it finally packed in.
I know use my 151te which is OK for body work but not as suitable for thin stuff.
Welding comes down to practice and experience.
Please please please don't weld without gas, also stick to 0.6 wire for bodywork. You need the wire to melt before the steel to add to the pool.