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PollyMobiles Rebuild

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Try a compeition car company like Jelf or REIS

What is the new job?

I'd like to know how people without a competition vehicle manage to get insurance with REIS. They have proved to be one of the most unreliable scetchy insurers who contunially change the goal posts as far as I'm concerned.

Tried to insure the SuperS with them a few years back, got a very good quote from them but when it came down to it they changed their tune and told me they couldn't cover the car unless it was a full competition vehicle with MSA papers.

They wouldn't even offer cover under a modified policy and told me they don't cover modified cars, only competition vehicles despite their website clearly stating to the contrary.

It would be good to make a lost of those with cover and what their spec is, as they are so far way off base with their story...
 
Have you tried Chris Knott insurance? Might be worth a call 08009172274. They do some specialist scheme and some owners club discounts schemes...


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Love_Whiskey

Super S Restorer
On the FaceBook there's a guy who every so often advertises a "Prestige Keep Moving" scheme, whatever that is. They accept modified cars, up to a point I presume.


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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Have you tried to insure any other cars apart from Micra's? I've found that Micra's can be quite expensive to insure compared to other cars. For example when i bought my Volvo (just to use as a daily) it was actually cheaper to insure than my K10!

not thought bout buying & insuring other budget jap cars. always been too bias towards the k11 but yeah they're becoming more ££ to run, perhaps time to venture into the unknown, preferably a reliable jap.
also consider upfront cost, insurance, tax.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Try a compeition car company like Jelf or REIS

What is the new job?

this is just a road car with a very long mod list, so nowhere near a competition car.
trying to insure a highly modded car with another stock car is gonna be difficult or unrealistic. most multi-car schemes are prob only for stock low-risk cars.
no job yet, just forcasting that when I get a new job away from home, I'd need to have a normal car, but keeping kasandra running is an obsticle.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my old alarm remote casing was getting abit worn & dinged.
so design a new one, integrate two buttons into the upper clam shell

1a.jpg
1b.jpg


printed the two clam shells

IMAG2898.jpg


but the hollow underside where the printer "bridges" the top is rather rough & unrefined

IMAG2901.jpg


the gap between buttons is too close & catches itself

IMAG2903.jpg


and the thin clam shell lip edge doesn't align accurately

IMAG2904.jpg


tweaked & refined the overhanging "bridge" printing settings till it's straight, consistant over long distance and doesn't sag much.
upper # is bridging extrusion ratio, lower # is speed.

IMAG2906.jpg


created a hole over the buttons so my fingers would press em directly. recessed it so it doesn't get pushed in my pockets

3a.jpg
3b.jpg


printed as one-piece so no need to align & screw clam shells together

IMAG2907.jpg


exposed buttons but soon found the holes too narrow and buttons too far away so my thumb couldn't reach

IMAG2908.jpg


circuit board slots in the groove sides

IMAG2909.jpg


insert battery

IMAG2910.jpg


and the battery cap simply tolerance fitted. grooved texture of the 3d print actually keeps it retained

IMAG2911.jpg


rather than thin exposed button holes, I tried to feature a thin flexible 1 layer thick topside where I can depress the button

2a.jpg
2b.jpg


this worked but 1 layer was too fragile/brittle

IMAG2912.jpg
IMAG2914.jpg


so refined with 2 layers thick

4a.jpg
4b.jpg


and it's now more robust and simpler

IMAG2917.jpg
IMAG2918.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
for xmas I asked sista to get me an Arduino Due microcontroller to play with :cool:
could work towards a datalogger or central heating controller or tyre temp logger etc

IMAG2916.jpg


engine compression had peaked after the long trip to Nurburgring and now cly1-2 is dropping

compression.jpg


LSD preload is steady


lsd.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Chloe, I always thought you reminded me of someone and tday I was just watching Only fools & horses on telly and realised it was of rodneys lass, aand her names cassandra too, same as my car :D:)

p02c8mgf.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Having seen some of the things they get up to, i'm not sure it's all 100% legal. (from someone who's never worked in the industry).

yea that did put me off the cheapest quote from Octogen when I read in forums etc bout how bad & dodgy they were. think I'll stick to well know ones

Oh how i hate going through the list..."does the car have any modifications" "...yeah, how long you got".

But yeah insurance makes no sense.

haha exactly the same. I'm like erm hmm got quite afew, I'll just email it to you :D
or say "yaknow that dropdown list under mods? just tick all of em"
then the long hold as they discuss with team leader.
 
I feel with you for insurance mate. My cars a right pig to insure and only Adrian flux will do it for me :(

You know you have a modified car tho when you confuse all the insurance companies apart from one!

My favourite is the deseaming on my mini, that's so hard to explain to a non mechanical minded person!
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Aye, have to explain each mod in lamens school terms. Could we not just say its a kitcar or prototype.
 
I see Dave has had issues with Reis Paul but I will share my experience.

My car is insured with them on an agreed value. I needed to show them my competition license as well as a few photos of the car competing.

There was no need for motorsport papers as the car isn't log booked as its not needed for hill climbing.

A non race national b license is under £40 and requires no tests etc.

As you have used your car competitively and have photos maybe enquirer with REIS?

May be worth spending 40 to save a lot more?
 

Antony

Ex. Club Member
My micra is 400 with no no claims.
The evo with extensive mods is 455...... no idea either .

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yesterday went for another drive to charge her battery and clear the systems but upon boosting I heard this metallic pa-ting followed by a knock on the bulkhead floor.
ah christ what's fallen off this time. all the suspension, brakes steering seemed fine and didn't knock so the car's sound. did I leave a tool laying around?

tday looked underneath and found that one of the rear engine mount bolt has fallen out. that bolt was always troublesome cos it tended to feel like it's crossthreading with the weak Alu gearbox casing.

DSC01522.JPG


tried fitting the same fine-metric thread bolt but the case thread is clearly rounded.
so tried a course-metric bolt and it engaged abit better, dare not fully tighten it. will see if it holds.
if it doesn't hold, the mount is no longer secure and would have to buy another gearbox :/
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Fill it with JB weld and tap that out so you can use the original size bolt?

I'm not sure a tapped JB weld in a rounded smooth hole is strong enough to secure the rear mount vibrations, especially on track.
retapping to the next size up, keiping it metal-metal is the most secure but just requires a different size socket, a minor inconvenience.
another option would be to helicoil the stripped thread?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I see Dave has had issues with Reis Paul but I will share my experience.

My car is insured with them on an agreed value. I needed to show them my competition license as well as a few photos of the car competing.

There was no need for motorsport papers as the car isn't log booked as its not needed for hill climbing.

A non race national b license is under £40 and requires no tests etc.

As you have used your car competitively and have photos maybe enquirer with REIS?

May be worth spending 40 to save a lot more?

just rang Reis and they can't cover her cos they require full trackday safety equipment like harness, rollcage, extinguisher etc which I can't afford.

so, not much options for when my insurance renews on april then.
either I keep running kasandra but cost a fortune to run, huge risk of getting nicked n lose everything.
or leave kasandra in garage to rot for few months while running a crummy boring standard car.
or insure both cars with the only viable insurer left, which is financially suicidal.
or say goodbye to kasandra and have a boring car.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
So you need an extinguisher as well now? LOL

guessing all this safety requirement for trackday use is to reduce risk of bodily harm from their risk assessors pov?
well I have those dinky tesco camp fire extinguishers in the glovebox if that counts :p
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
said I have a highly modified daily car in garage for occasional trackdays & potentially a normal daily car out the front and ask how much to insure both

Well I've now got it in writing that you also require a competition licence and must be a member of an MSA registered car club. IIRC Paul Skinner said a non-race national b licence is sufficient but I've asked anyway, as I don't trust Alison.
 

wehey

Ex. Club Member
Just drive Kasandra Paul, it's the best option.
At the end of the day it's a Micra and no one really wants to steal it. Real criminals want high end cars. Pikeys and chavs might want it for a bit of joy riding but that's the worst case scenario.
Fit a hidden fuel cut off switch somewhere In the car then you know it can't be driven off. The worst thing that can then happen is someone breaks a window to nick your lunch box.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just drive Kasandra Paul, it's the best option.
At the end of the day it's a Micra and no one really wants to steal it. Real criminals want high end cars. Pikeys and chavs might want it for a bit of joy riding but that's the worst case scenario.
Fit a hidden fuel cut off switch somewhere In the car then you know it can't be driven off. The worst thing that can then happen is someone breaks a window to nick your lunch box.

just insuring it another year and using it daily and still use it for trackdays & shows would be the easiest choice but she's not in good condition for parking out in open street elements or running economically and would be high risk for me financially and personally if it was ruined or nicked.
it has NATS already so no need for another switch.
think the best thing is to fit a cellular alarm to notify my phone and perhaps paint the wheels black.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to remove the driveshafts and see why the inner RH CV hub wobbles so much and leak oil.

after long trip to nurburgring and a trackday, the oil plug doesn't have as much debris as before so tis good

DSC01523.JPG


the front pads have only worn down from 9.6mm new to 8mm since May

DSC01524.JPG
DSC01525.JPG


pad wear.jpg


removed the driveshafts, measured the shaft diameter nearby the splines that slots through the diff casing and they're both 59.92mm dia.
inserted one of the driveshaft into the LSD LH and it's snug with minimal play, inserted the same shaft into the LSD RH and there's quite abit of play,
so it seems the RH of the LSD which holds the driveshaft end secure is worn too much. other than replacing the whole LSD casing or getting the hole machined & sleeved at an expense, there's not much that can be done.

DSC01526.JPG


popped the old gearbox seal off

DSC01527.JPG


here's the new seals

DSC01528.JPG
DSC01529.JPG


punched back in with a large socket. note only punch it till the seal face is flush with the casing and not all the way in or else it'll just rub on the LSD bearing cage

DSC01530.JPG
DSC01531.JPG


driving around town so far there's no visible gearbox leak, will see in few weeks
 
yesterday went for another drive to charge her battery and clear the systems but upon boosting I heard this metallic pa-ting followed by a knock on the bulkhead floor.
ah christ what's fallen off this time. all the suspension, brakes steering seemed fine and didn't knock so the car's sound. did I leave a tool laying around?

tday looked underneath and found that one of the rear engine mount bolt has fallen out. that bolt was always troublesome cos it tended to feel like it's crossthreading with the weak Alu gearbox casing.

View attachment 46556

tried fitting the same fine-metric thread bolt but the case thread is clearly rounded.
so tried a course-metric bolt and it engaged abit better, dare not fully tighten it. will see if it holds.
if it doesn't hold, the mount is no longer secure and would have to buy another gearbox :/
I would retap a new threaded hole for gearbox next size up and drill a bigger hole on the mount it self so it's new again


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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
went for another drive in the freezing cold before it snows soon and nope the gearbox still shows a drip of gearbox oil, aw well :rolleyes:
 

Antony

Ex. Club Member
Do you think there might be a hairline crack somewhere seaping oil ?

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Do you think there might be a hairline crack somewhere seaping oil ?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

The casing seems fine and all sealed up. The only viable cause is that RH driveshaft wobbling about from the loose LSD shaft hole, upsetting the seal.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Haahaa well thank-you very much :)

Hope you get insurance sorted :( xx

ur welcome :cool:

aye I hoping my premium stays the same and can continue running her daily & on trackdays n trips. otherwise a year in a standard boring car without kasandra or any track action or car shows would be very very sad
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was looking for a broad flat nozzle for the vacuum cleaner to clean the bed & desk but didn't have any,
so I just modelled one up. flat tip maintaining the same area as the round pipe.

flat tip.jpg


thought I'd try to print it as a continuous single-walled spiral-type weave for a fast smooth print

IMAG2922.jpg


but this caused hollow gaps on steep overhanging curves

IMAG2923.jpg


and the thin long straight unsupported sides simply buckled under the warping forces

IMAG2925.jpg
IMAG2924.jpg


so printed with a thicker 2mm stiff wall

IMAG2926.jpg


and it's retained it's structure

IMAG2928.jpg
IMAG2929.jpg


and one flat nozzle ready to vacuum, works nicely

IMAG2930.jpg
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
Don't forget the er erm. ......i forgot now.
Might as well say something now. Make a k11 fuse puller that little thing that gets lost always.​
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Don't forget the er erm. ......i forgot now.
Might as well say something now. Make a k11 fuse puller that little thing that gets lost always.​
Hehe were you walking in-between rooms whilst typing cos that usually causes forgetfulness.

My fuse pullers always there. If u lost urs, U can also use pullers from other scrap cars that use the same blade type fuses.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
dad wanted a new casing for this external microSSD drive so that on holiday he can easily open the case to swap the memory card without tools.
so modelled the components

ssd case (0).jpg


first design was simply two clamshells that clip together with these tab fingers

ssd case (1).jpg


printed it with the outer casing flat on the bed to remain level, but the thin fingers seem abit fragile and had loose tolerances

ssd case (2).jpg


the spring loaded card inserts like this

ssd case (3).jpg


and the casing clips together, but you can see how the clips aren't accurate enough to work and very vulerable to snapping off

ssd case (4).jpg
ssd case (5).jpg


redesigned the casing to slide together

ssd case (6).jpg


little indents at the end of the sliding rails holds the casing secure

ssd case (7).jpg


printed it with the big flat casing hovering above the bed in an attempt to fillet the outer edge for a rounded look

ssd case (8).jpg


BUT this required a very long unstable "bridging" movement where it prints mid-air with no support so each strand droops and ruins the underside

ssd case (9).jpg


removed all the supports and tested the fitment.
it was quite tight so some tolerances require tweaking

ssd case (10).jpg
ssd case (11).jpg
ssd case (12).jpg


redesigned for printing flat against the bed. removed the rounded edge from the outside

ssd case (13).jpg


and angled the overhanging lip edge 45deg so the printer can create it without drooping

ssd case (14).jpg


prints flat on the bed much better

ssd case (15).jpg


cleaned the little supports and the result is alot cleaner prints

ssd case (16).jpg
ssd case (17).jpg
ssd case (18).jpg


installed the circuit

ssd case (19).jpg


and the top parts slide nicely in place

ssd case (20).jpg
ssd case (21).jpg
 
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