Bought mine straight from Matt H, 2.8kg.not heard of them, tis new to me.
just looking at their product list, obviously a cg13de ain't on there and I have a different clutch,
but if someone has the answer to this Q, what nissan model was my 200mm helix organic clutch & PP originally intended for?
with the make & model, maybe it might already exist in their list, or I order a fidanza flywheel for that make model n I just bolt this clutch onto it?
u get a quote from TTV?
ooh just checked his listing and yep there's a lightweight 1-piece special flywheel for 184 or 200mm clutch for £288 plus postageBought mine straight from Matt H, 2.8kg.
That's odd they used to be listed on the site, they have the cg10 & cg13 on the shelf, wouldn't take much to sort out a bigger clutch. Is the 200mm not the 2.0 primera jobbie?
Don't forget the dredded VAT too mate!ooh just checked his listing and yep there's a lightweight 1-piece special flywheel for 184 or 200mm clutch for £288 plus postage
u got a pic on ur blog?
I better get saving![]()
oh gawd that VAT, thought his listing says including vat?Don't forget the dredded VAT too mate!
Demontweeks stock TTV parts, might be worth trying some club discoubt there?
No longer a consideration but FYI, those are for 184mm and 200mm Helix/Tilton Racing clutches. Which means the bolt pattern will be different and there will be a step machined into the flywheel for the cover plate to sit in.ooh just checked his listing and yep there's a lightweight 1-piece special flywheel for 184 or 200mm clutch for £288 plus postage
u got a pic on ur blog?
I better get saving![]()
I was taking the piss lol if I remember correctly it 6. Something.8kgs? It shouldn't be that much Chris.
No longer a consideration but FYI, those are for 184mm and 200mm Helix/Tilton Racing clutches. Which means the bolt pattern will be different and there will be a step machined into the flywheel for the cover plate to sit in.
Like the flywheel which was posted up on facebook a while back and no-one knew what it was...
Trying to understand this statement more,..talking to andy at santapod bout my thoughts of lightening a 1-piece 1.3 flywheel for the 200mm clutch on my turbo setup, he says not a good idea due to it's brittleness n heat cycle cracking after removing material, especially in my application of 160ftlb being used as a daily with occasional long trackdays at max rpm.
As am ITrying to understand this statement more,..
Lol I shall call u Mr H701 now onAs am I
Ps don't get your Andys mixed up folk... I wasn't there![]()
Lol I shall call u Mr H701 now onAs am I
Ps don't get your Andys mixed up folk... I wasn't there![]()
Enuo mentioned bout how cast iron expands n contracts lot more than steel/alu so dumping a huge amount of heat energy from the high torque of the turbo on multiple trackdays onto a flywheel with less material & heat latency than original "could" create heat stress cracks, like on brakes, till it eventually fails at high rpm.Trying to understand this statement more,..
From what I've seen of the lightened one piece flywheels on here and my own (which I'm planning to lighten) you are taking off the extra material from the outside that Nissan added for more inertia ? You don't actually make it thinner than it is already at its thinnest part, so therefore not making it weaker (or at least in my head) so then why is it not recommended in this case? Is it because the extra duty required by the turbo etc means more heat etc dumped into a smaller mass which isn't a problem in n/a applications? Or is there something wrong with lightening the one piece flywheel?
But for sure that flywheel on Humphris list will support the 200mm clutch that's from the same list?8kgs? It shouldn't be that much Chris.
No longer a consideration but FYI, those are for 184mm and 200mm Helix/Tilton Racing clutches. Which means the bolt pattern will be different and there will be a step machined into the flywheel for the cover plate to sit in.
Like the flywheel which was posted up on facebook a while back and no-one knew what it was...
thx low rider, I'll go measure the jun flywheel in garage to double check the holes fitThe bolt holes on a 200mm Helix racing clutch sit on a 214mm PCD, 6-bolt M8.
think it's unequal tread depths that always influences the pull cos whenever I realigned the wheels with new thick tyres she cruises straight.Should always drift left for natural road camber
No dampers only springs arrived. I still need that PayPal thing doing too
You could do if you wished
Cruising straight on cambered roads is a sign of incorrect tracking chapthink it's unequal tread depths that always influences the pull cos whenever I realigned the wheels with new thick tyres she cruises straight.
any idea when it'll arrive or there must be some sorta tracking number?
paypal for the dampers, pm me how much and what's ur paypal email?
how far u got with the mani? managed to get flange cut? brought any bends? just hope my arc weld skills can deal with the thin tubes n not blow holes
once the rear dampers arrive, then I'll pop round to swap em & see what to do bout manifold cos tis a long journey
Glad u enjoy a good read, time flys when u enjoy sumthing ehSlightly off topic but i am fairly new to the forum so am still filtering through build threads and this has been the best i have read to date. So good in fact i have sat up until 1:30am without realising it. What an amazing build. Any problems im calling you mate@pollyp
Sweet. Well the exh flange models of various port sizes r in dropbox. Once dampers n flange r ready lemme know asapIt'll be 10mm no less. Warp free that way
Having the tooling and time to accurately cut out the flange is difficult
Laser cutting would be much more efficient
we've all gotta start somewhere to build our skills & experiences.Thanks @polyp I'm really trying to learn the parts and such of the engine as I'm only 17 and my k11 is my first car! Hopefully I can come to a meet soon and someone can check it over ahaha just kiddingthanks a lot I'm gonna read more later only on page 7 or so!:laugh:
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Sand, till bare (or near to bare) metal then use rust killer. Sand then degrease and use Etch primer, then colour layer. Sand between primer and colour layer with 1k wet paperyeah need to get myself a haynes manual, just keep using that search bar in stead of asking when i can.. currently treating my wheel arch for rust (i dont know if you seen)
but yeah, thats a fun job :laugh:
dont mean to hijack but any tips?
good lad, there's also an index page on the 1st post to summerise most stuff.yeah need to get myself a haynes manual, just keep using that search bar in stead of asking when i can.. currently treating my wheel arch for rust (i dont know if you seen)
but yeah, thats a fun job :laugh:
dont mean to hijack but any tips?
naa the legs don't normally reach that high n deep and it's just a thin strip of Alu screwed onto a plastic section of the dash.That metal bar you screwed in for your lighting of pedals, looks a bit sketchy in regards to destroying your shins in the event of a crash/spin...
Certainly lead to some bruising at least :/
Tis a fair point hahanaa the legs don't normally reach that high n deep and it's just a thin strip of Alu screwed onto a plastic section of the dash.
the only way my feet would bash this bar is if tumbling upside down, and at that point hitting my ankles on a weak strip of alu is the very least of my worrys in comparison to the knees striking the dash first, pedals shooting inwards, the roof caving or the doors buckling in
K11 ain't exactly safe going at speed and tbh if there's a smash it's gonna hurt
Drift X170 action cam, has 170deg rotating lens, 2 AA batt, SD card and remote controlled.I know I have asked before but... what camera(s) do you use for the pedals etc... i like the fact yours has a proper tripod screw mount.