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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wanna rid of this long fuse box that was in the way taking up space, opened up & it's just two relays inside

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removed the casing & it's more flexible space now, just tape the relays up with the loom

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here's the engine & rad fan relays

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ok now to mount the catch cans in the LH area I'm gonna need some CAD :cool:

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this initial design was gonna enclose the cans in a cool box separate from the hot bay but I also wanted to first video the jars working during a cruise so made a version without the sides

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transfer CAD to metal

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bent & fitted

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and the catch cans just screw on like this

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connected the hoses, neat:cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the production studio setup

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the jar at the back is plumbed between the lower crankcase breather and the PCV towards the inlet mani
whilst the jar closest is between the air filter/turbo inlet and the upper crankcase breather entry at the top of the engine cover.

in this clip I'm mostly just cruising around under light load keeping under 60mph.
you can see that since the inlet mani's under vacuum most of the time, it sucks all the hazy vapours from the crankcase, some vapour condenses inside the rear catchcan (working almost immediately u can see it begin condensing 2mins after starting up), goes through the PCV and into the inlet.

the jar in front is mostly clear cos most of the time it's just cool clean air from the filter flowing through towards the upper crankcase entry, so nothing to condense. the only time there's a hint of vapour is when I'm accelerating on boost and the flow reverses briefly.


so after just 45miles of cruising the crankcase to inlet jar has condensed this much vapour

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next I'll be driving back home with more boost and at 70mph.

notice that when I'm at/above 0psi, the +ve boost shuts the 1-way PCV so the hazy blowby that was flowing through the rear jar stops flowing n remains still,
meanwhile the excess blowby vapours now exit the crankcase out the other way via the upper breather port, through the jar in front hence it begins to mist up during boost.

when I lift off after boosting, the inlet vacuum opens the PCV, the flow suddenly reverses back to normal, clean air rushes back through the front jar so it clears up,
the hazy vapour that was in the front jar then travels through the crankcase, through the rear jar so it resumes hazing up, then back into the inlet mani.


after 60miles it's collected this much

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on closer inspection here's the empty front jar from the air filter to upper breather port

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and here's the rear jar from crankcase to inlet mani, just look at the milkshake

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
recently the rear ends been knocking over bumps.
loaded the boot and looking under it seems the backbox has shifted forward abit close to the axle n clipping the abs bracket

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since abs is removed, lets cut it off

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in prep for a m8s wedding, thought I'd give her a nice wash n slippery polish :cool: took so much effort, I'm exhausted

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clean the wheels n interior tomorrow
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new or used, long as they got enough metal & smooth they'll work good enough.

after m8s wedding next week, thinking of donnington in early june. andy mentioned some evening runs at cadwell.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new GTIR discs arrived

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257mm dia so will need lathing down to 253

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about to wash the T1R road set of wheels

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but the paint on two of em (which were originally the bad set I brought off ebay) r peeling off, obviously they're been spray painted

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washed em but obviously not upto scratch for the thursday wedding so I'll need to get em refurbed early next week

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so will be fitting the trackday 595rsr set whilst using the car

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after scraping the loose layers off it's just as bad as the road set :p

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gave a quick wirebrush. since these are just wheels for trackday abuse, appearance doesn't matter. at most I'll prob just paint these track ones myself and get the road set properly powder coated.

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if they were used, surely getting free new ones would be worth the effort. when are you two tracking in the next few months?
They were a new set of mine I had scrubbed in and sent to Paul to no avail

Cadwell evening shots are only £69 but only 4 hours. Although 4 hours is plenty if it's your first time out
You'll get an improvements list to make not only for the car but yourself, cadwell is a technical one :)

I'm doing Donnington in October Paul :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
They were a new set of mine I had scrubbed in and sent to Paul to no avail

Cadwell evening shots are only £69 but only 4 hours. Although 4 hours is plenty if it's your first time out
You'll get an improvements list to make not only for the car but yourself, cadwell is a technical one :)

I'm doing Donnington in October Paul :)
afternoon sessions usually alot calmer so 4hrs is a good few laps to assess everything.

I'll see what happens after germany.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wheel nuts wirebrushed

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primed, painted & laquered

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finally removed the lower brace andy. can see where it's been leaking oil heavily below the rear crank seal, helped preserve the steel but I really really must get some UV oil dye to find out factually where it's gushing

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rounded the square corners

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primed & painted

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instead of repainting the hub caps, I wanted to fit these rota caps back on the alloys

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problem is they don't lock securely in place and especially during hot trackdays they pop out. must be removable when replacing tyres.

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so printed this wedge

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and it locks the cap in solidly :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
shiny brace fitted

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fitted the filthy track wheels with repainted nuts, didn't stay painted for long cos the socket just chiped the edges off lol aw well

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rang local wheel shop bout refurbing this set, was £190 but they're fully booked till next week, bummur need it for wedding preferably wednesday :oops:
mandy asked if the wheels r off the car, yup already taking out, oh then she may be able to get it in, fab :D
went to the shop, dropped em off with mandy, see on wednesday.

then went to me usual machine shop in next town bout lathing these pulsar discs down, they're abit busy so won't be done till next weekend, no rush.
asked how much, it'll be £30 (oh that's alright :)) ... each (what!:eek::confused:o_O £60 to simply machine a lip off? more than the price of the discs itself?) so that's doubled the cost of these discs then. ffs go on then :rolleyes:

safe to say that's the last time I'll ever use that place
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
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I've got AD22VF setups on 2 K11's and neither of them have required the discs to be machined down to fit :confused:

I'm going measuring this weekend to see what the sizes are...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've got AD22VF setups on 2 K11's and neither of them have required the discs to be machined down to fit :confused:

I'm going measuring this weekend to see what the sizes are...
my calipers sit too close to the lip so it would rub the 257mm disc when warm/hot hence getting em lathed to 253mm.
could u measure how far the brake carrier & caliper r from the disc hub on urs?
think I once measured mine #goes searching#
 
I've got AD22VF setups on 2 K11's and neither of them have required the discs to be machined down to fit :confused:

I'm going measuring this weekend to see what the sizes are...
Iv had 2 sets of discs on the front of mine with the AD22 calipers Dave, the first needed 1.5mm off the overall diameter the second were fine, I put it down to the manufactures specs though both were listed as "OE" fitment
 
None of my discs require machining although I would say I'm void on this one as k have modified K10 hubs as opposed to K11

I have seen a lobed bolt used where large calipers are concerned to alter caliper angle, much like a camber bolt
I've never asked how that went
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
None of my discs require machining although I would say I'm void on this one as k have modified K10 hubs as opposed to K11

I have seen a lobed bolt used where large calipers are concerned to alter caliper angle, much like a camber bolt
I've never asked how that went
suppose I could mill the hubs bolt hole for the caliper carrier outwards slightly so the carrier can sit further out?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
attached the ribbons to the car for the wedding, looks spiffin ace :cool:
one fast track tested wedding car lol

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whilst cleaning the seats, noticed my drivers seats slightly unbolted and bolt is hard to access

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so drilled an access hole to tighten

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tied the tyreweld & tools more securely in the boot out the way rather than bubble wrapped.

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all set for m8's wedding, just awaiting fresh wheels

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
awaiting low riders measurements to confirm if there's any differences between mine & his configurations, wonder if there could be a difference in hub mounting points?

but anyway with my current setup there's only afew limited mods I could do:
- get £60 discs lathed down for £60 = £120,
- grind away & weaken the inner arm of the calipers facing the disc lip,
- custom machine a new caliper carrier ££,
- fit weaker eccentric hub carrier bolts,
- elongate the hub carrier bolt holes,
- change or modify the hub,
- use a completely different brake system £££
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
collected me fresh wheels in the morning, Eeey they're like new :D could just lick em

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gave a complimentary polish

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fitted with some spare shinier nuts and repainted the letter with what tiny amount I had left in the pens

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didn't want the black white ribbons to flap about seperately so I stitched the two stripes together on sew machine

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eek exciting, she's all ready for her big day :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yesterdays wedding has been an epic success.

kasandra left the garage in her most fetchy clean groomsmaid look

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I drove through town to pickup the lads, during rush hour slightly embarrasingly, def got a few looks hahaa, but just keep focus on driving n smiling :D
arrived at the grooms house, got changed, bacon butty, tea, good whisky

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and this is it lads, we set off to the venue in a fully loaded stiff trackday micra.
I think cos of the 4/3kg front/rear springs, lowered 50mm with only 30-40mm bump travel and 4 adults, the rear is simply resting on bumpstops so the guys at back are really uncomfortably boucing about close to the sharp edged sunroof frame woops lol so try best to avoid bumps on a speedbumped estate :p

we got to the venue well ahead of schedule :cool:

the ceremony of my besty m8 was aww heartwarming luvly yet awsome starwars themed.

after a looong night, we drove back home next morning, she didn't put a sweat and still pristine. I need a rest now :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
to trace where this engine is leaking oil, I got some UV dye from ebay for £3

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and this 15w UV bulb from maplin for £9

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warmed the engine up so the oil is thinner,
inject 15ml per 4 quarts of oil as instructed,
there's no immediate leaks after 20mins idling,
went for a quick boost round town and again no leaks,


so went for a 60mile cruise occasionally boosting, check over with the lamp and it appears to be spattered mainly around and under the bellhousing and under the sump towards rear crank seal.

so the source could be:
the new rear crank seal,
rear crank seal plate,
rear of the sump gasket,
big copper oil gallery washer seal that I tried reusing with some sealant.

it'll mean I need to remove the gearbox & flywheel to get better accurate look after repeating the UV test :/
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
andy got back to me bout the rear BC dampers, costs bout £90 for each new complete damper, we send back the old ones, so best order them in pairs.
so he'll order on monday, await delivery before popping down to swap em.
work out the new turbo mani,
and also work out if he can support me enough to work there to help complete afew busy projects as well as get h701 ready for the big shows.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
lets measure the worn BC coilover pillow ball bearings, noting the position of the camber

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removed the top mount

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removed the 3 tiny allen head bolts but there's alway one that's stuck & rounded off

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dremeled a slot & impact driven it off

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punch out the bearing with a socket

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bearing removed

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measured the plain spherical bearing and this is very odd sized cos I cannot find any online of that dimensions

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can anyone help me source a pair of these plain spherical bearings, maintenance-free with sealing ring to keep out dirt?

Andy, perhaps BC can sell a spare pillowball top unit?
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Speaking of coliovers, do you have any static wheel alignment data to hand Paul?

Front and rear toe, front caster and camber?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Speaking of coliovers, do you have any static wheel alignment data to hand Paul?

Front and rear toe, front caster and camber?
last time I checked alignment:
front camber = -2deg
front toe = 0deg
stock rear camber = -0.8deg
stock rear toe = -0.17067deg
 
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