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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
at the weekend I had a big stone chip in the middle of the windscreen :rolleyes: ffs it'll prob be repaired n be annoyingly visible but I'd rather replace the whole windscreen.
over the recent drama I'd forgotten that my insurance automatically renewed before I had chance of phoning about 5days before it runs out, meh.
rang em bout replacing or repairing the windscreen, they said guy will only replace if deemed required, booked to come assess it.
also asked bout my euro cover & breakdown for germany, yep my fully comp has euro cover and the euro breakdown can recover the car all the way back home, thats a relief :)

ran out of 5w50 n andy gave me some 10w40 to resolve the cold smoking so changed the oil. spark plug tube 1 has oil so have to check whats leaking.

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all these years I've always forgotten to replace the pancaked sump washer, no surprise if it's caused one of the oil leak.
now replaced new crush washer

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national windscreens van popped by this morning, we pushed car out garage to inspect. he said yeah will need replacing cos it's cracked, Oh fck where the heck that come from, didn't notice yesterday? well suppose I wanted it replaced anyway and to my luck this just makes it happen :D replacing tomorrow afternoon (guess I'll have to re-make the vinyl sunstrip)

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dunno why receiving car bits from postman is always nice but xmas/bday came early :D

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purchased 3L dot5.1 fluid from ebay for £14

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yay the OBP bias valve £35 from rallynuts arrived, bit chunkier than I thought :cool:
http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport...ves/obp-screw-type-brake-bias-valve-club.html

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andy gave me pair of rear disc hoses thx. got pair of t-pieces for the front & rear lines and some 5mm gromets to feed lines through chassis

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thinking where could I fit the valve for ease of reach without knocking it?
removed gearstick plastic cover thats in the way.
was gonna feed lines through the passenger bulkhead, bolt the valve to the tunnel side here then run it to the back but doing the plumbing could be tricky

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another option that I prefer would be to run the lines underneath the tunnel and mount the valve knob through a hole drilled at the top, T'd to the left/right calipers at the fuel tank. would be much neater

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me being me, whats inside this valve? :p

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there's a piston plunger inside but cant pull the outer collar out, don't wanna damage it so leave it

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due to lack of labelling I blew through the ports n vary the plunger position to check which way the valves go.

when the dial is fully released exerting no spring force and the plunger inside is fully up, when I blew in via this port it shuts off fully. this meant 0% brake pressure will reach the rears.

bias 0% braking.JPG


when the dial is screwed downwards exerting a spring force down onto the plunger, this keeps the valve more open.
so when I blow through the port, it stays open.
so more brake pressure would be allowed to reach the rear brakes.

bias 100% braking.JPG


whenever the MC brake pressure is released, it's obviously important to allow the rear brake fluid to return back and release the rear brakes so there's some sort of 1-way check valve inside so that whether the dial is fully on/off, I can always blew through the ports in reverse.

bias returning flow.JPG
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The compartment hinge on Andys Celica has long snapped off (seems to be a common failure) so first step was to dismantle & measure the original components to fit the new design within

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next is recreate the original template in CAD

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then we can begin redesigning the mechanism.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
I am currently running the same brake fluid, ideal in small containers so you only open what you need. Coped well at the last rally we did.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
My precious celica :)
The K11s have a good hole in the bulkhead you can use to run the line in. Very simple to do

#My Precioussss# :p

Yeah was thinking of feeding it through there but thought it'd be tricky to work it neatly as one-piece round the interior contours plus mounting the adjuster on the corner of the tunnel ain't ideal.

It won't be easy with the engine n rack in place but gotta figure out a procedure to shape the lines from the MC, across down into the tunnel behind the rack, hook up the adjuster mounted under the tunnel, then backwards to the t-piece. good thing I brought two reels of line as practice.
 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after few hrs of tweaking, the first hinge design

hinge 1 a.JPG
hinge 1 b.JPG


hinge-1.gif


abit like a cabinet hinge, but imo too complicated n weak. need to simplify to keep it strong
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok the simplified version is to simply beef up the original hinge :D

hinge 2 a.JPG


thickened the mount end, also gonna run a metal pin between em rather than the flimsy push pin type

hinge 2 b.JPG


narrowed the body to suit the thicker mounts

hinge 2 c.JPG
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
printed out the parts

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came out ok but quite fragile

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ah, was gonna glue these together but it's warped too much

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hmm fitted onto the lid and Andy I don't think it'll hold cos the hollow prints are very very fragile (compared to the solid injected original brackets) & not meant for high stress such as hinges :/

I'm gonna try reprint the original broken hinge bits but can't guarantee it'll be strong enough.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
front hoses, brake line clips n wideband sensor arrived

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the 3yr old sensors been really faulty recently, constantly throwing E8 error codes, prob from heater failure

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replaced

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also been thinking bout the brake bias plumbing.
fitting the valve under the tunnel would make it tricky to plumb down the bulkhead mess, steering rack, gear linkage & exhaust & fuel tank and obstruct the lower console tray.

looking around, I found this spot could be most suitable.
within easy reach, won't be knocked, can still fit the lower tray and subtle (would be even stealthier if I could fit it through the empty cig lighter but removing the dash would be a pita).
easy to plumb down the bulkhead through the passenger footwell port hole, across into the center console into the bias valve then rearwards to the brakes (have to decide whether via neatly under the tunnel or over the tunnel routing round all the interior contours)

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before the windscreen guys come, I removed the wipers, scuttle, a-pillar trim n see what this crack was, notice the bubbling paint rust round the windscreen

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well there's the cause, it's been badly rusting around the windscreen which eventually pushes n cracked the glass. abit worried there's not much good metal left :/

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guys were having a hard time removing the glass. it's been replaced before (guessing same time as when this chassis was previously been in a nasty front smash) and been bonded abit too close to the chassis with a tough sealant. was cracking and sending glass bits all over the car :(
eventually it was cut off n windscreen-less

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ah jeez look at that rust, this was badly treated & replaced by the previous fitter

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eek not much metal. we wirebrushed as much rust off. they brushed some black etching primer stuff

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applied bead of sealant and pushed the new windscreen on with new rubber strip

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more streamlined trim eh

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gave a good hoover n fitted everything back on, fully cures in few days, -£90 excess. sorted :cool:
think about the brakes next
 
Sorry I mean the quote to replace the window is 180+vat.

Il be ringing the insurance to see if they do windscreen cover.

Fully comp insurance however was only £234 last year :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
looking at all my photos of the chassis n plumbing layout n sketching a rough idea of where & how to route the new lines, where to join & support it. will take afew attempts to plan out

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Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
It's possible to have cheaper cover as a competition vehicle, but you have to jump through a LOT of hoops and it genuinely does have to be a competition vehicle. The cover is however very strict. I'd imagine if it was being used under 'general' terms, i.e. used for social, domestic and pleasure, the policy would likely be invalid.
 
It's possible to have cheaper cover as a competition vehicle, but you have to jump through a LOT of hoops and it genuinely does have to be a competition vehicle. The cover is however very strict. I'd imagine if it was being used under 'general' terms, i.e. used for social, domestic and pleasure, the policy would likely be invalid.
Mines covered as a competition car, their maximum level of cover is TPFT, but doesnt any road insurance have to meet minimum guidelines regardless of a car's use?
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
to join the engine bay line to the line inside, I'll use a spare coupler

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cut off the un-used side and rounded the edges

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also chamfered the sharp edges of the bias valve

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the t-piece I brought off ebay was badly threaded :( so had to buy another from local parts store

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was removing the seats for easier access and the interiors abit mucky over the years

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ahh, clean from some hoover n wiping :cool:

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ok lets jack it up n assess a plan

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was gonna plumb the lines under the tunnel but the gear linkages are close by

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but here the path is obstructed by the handbrake mechanism and reinforcement brackets

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the t-piece was gonna be at the end of the tunnel and the lines go to the left/right

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but this path is heavily obstructed by supporting brackets & fuel lines

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after hours of thought, sketched the final paths

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in the bay, I'll be utilising some of the original paths n existing mounting clips and then the rear lines pop through this empty gromet at the passenger footwell. (thought about running the lines along the top lip of the bulkhead but drilling the mounting holes would be tricky and tedious)

the lines at the MC would have to clear the PAS, fuel return & servo lines.

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the rear lines pop into the footwell via this gromet then connect to a union

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it flows under the ECU, up into the bias adjuster, down to the t-piece to split left/right

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then go beside the gearstick

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across underneath the seat brace

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along the sill then through the front of the rear seat well

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where it pops along the inner side of the trailing arm mount

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and straight into the rear brake point

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was a pita to remove the ABS module and the nest of brake lines mostly intact (had to cut off the seized brake hose union ends)

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would this spare ABS stuff be of use to anyone orjust chuck it?
 
Here's a few photos of how I did Alex's
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Glad you've gone for that grommet in the end its a safe secure area of the car
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Added joins here for his future bias valve. A good join is as good as a solid line :)

I use ptfe on the very top of the unions (not for thread sealing as the compression of the copper holds the unions together similar to how a spring washer would) it stops dirt ingress to the threads and seizing :)
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Thx for the handy pics. Been thinking I'll need to move the union to make it easier to fit the bay lines. Also reminds me I should redo the fuel lines cos they're getting rusty, what u using?

That ptfe sounds handy especially for the well exposed join to the flexi brake hose that's usually seized. I think perhaps cover it in hot glue or putty after fitting to stop moisture etc getting to it?
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
to remove the old MC/servo, I had to remove the fuel rail for more room

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Mmm the effect of fitting a catch can in the PCV-manifold port is now a bone dry inlet mani with zero oil pool to burn :cool:

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Oh FFS removing the brake pedal bracket with that steering and clutch assembly in the way and trying to get to those concealed LH nuts must be the hardest thing to do on this car while that seat crossmember on the floor is trying to break ur back when laying on it :confused::rolleyes: back breaking work.

old MC off, vs new one

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also noticed this PAS tube is resting on the chassis

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cut some rubber of the old ABS cable to wrap round it

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C3 master with k11 servo fitted, once again breaking my back trying to get the damn nuts back on. this woulda been an impossible task without these flexible ratchet spanners that tom recommended.

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and oh Crap, the fuel reg on the 370cc rail fouls the MC :oops:
I cant turn it upside down to clear it cos the return port is angled

but hang on I have a spare reg from the past 200sx rail, that has a straight port so it can be upside down

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and yay presto it clears. abit close but better than touching or having to reroute the reg.

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all the hoses fit n clears. have to tie that PAS hose to one side

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cut off this horrid rear brake compensator

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rather than unbolt and risk snapping the fuel/brake line supports underneath, I just cut the old brake lines apart n slide it off the brackets

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old brake lines all removed :D

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Fuel lines you can get 8mm cupro nickel pipe, same as brakes etc.
For Alex, he had 8mm stainless steel over braided fuel hose. Expensive but worth it :)
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Fuel lines you can get 8mm cupro nickel pipe, same as brakes etc.
For Alex, he had 8mm stainless steel over braided fuel hose. Expensive but worth it :)

nice I'll have to sort that out soon to replace the rusty and prob kinked fuel lines. the luxery of posh braided lines ain't a priority cos it ain't seen.

work'll continue tomorrow morning cos I'm tired, poor dry hands r waving white flag n I may need to work in the takeaway shop later so keep hands abit clean.
meanwhile lets tinker with the printer :p
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
what about the engine movement tho paul ? even with your modded mounts you will need 20mm+ of clearance surely ?

aye these firmer mounts r few yrs old now n not exactly solid (looking at the susp cam footage on ytube) but nought I can do bout it other than nibble afew mm off the MC corner or fuel reg corner or get the rail remade or remount the reg somehow. I'll see how it does for now.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before fitting the t-piece in the bay for the front lines, I noticed the brake line tool has a bigger dia than the mounting point

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so will add space with a nut

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scraped the sealant off the bulkhead to create a flat surface to begin drilling

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had to change the position slightly

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drilled the mount hole

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t-piece mounted

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sorted out the plumbing of the PAS, fuel return & servo vacuum

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fuel hose slightly close so nudged the rubber collar to where it could touch

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the plastic brake line clips need reprinting

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right lets begin routing the lines with a reel of steel wire

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forming the first part of the front lines to the t-piece

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now the line to the RH

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mounted the union block in the footwell nearest the gromet

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now forming the copper lines

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to flare the ends, clamp it in the chuck with abit petruding

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fit the mould

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compress

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and flared

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fitted nicely

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forming the RH lines

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to reduce corrosion I wrapped it with electrical tape

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and fitted :cool:

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had to bend the bulkhead lip to fit the spanner

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Your cad skills amaze me Paul

And those brake lines look all to familiar and a reminder on the stress they caused me :p

hehe simples with the right tools n experience, it's what I do best.

oh gawd yea it took soooo long to plan, plot and fabricate just these two lines correctly the first time, but when it goes right, it looks good :cool: good thing I have time and no other commitments
 
I got it from this supplier

stores.ebay.co.uk/heatshrinkonline

Can't remember what they called it but it was thicker than normal and had a type of glue/sealant on the inside that self heals if the outer layer is cut/damaged
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I got it from this supplier

stores.ebay.co.uk/heatshrinkonline

Can't remember what they called it but it was thicker than normal and had a type of glue/sealant on the inside that self heals if the outer layer is cut/damaged

fantastic, found the adhesive backed tubing. thx for helping
 
Absolutely, an extremely satisfying job. I had to remake one of Alexs lines because it kinked. Bending them around a 22mm socket is a good way to get tight radius bends without kinking :)
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
printed new pair of brake line clips

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took afew hrs bending & tweaking the wires for the LH & rear line till they fit & align perfectly.

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making the rear lines. handy tip is to tape the wire to the pipes as you bend each corner so u can see which orientation to bend and by how much angle

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Mmm aligns luvely :cool:

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now the tricky part of making the second line to follow alongside the first line

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phwoar thats tasty, real chuffed with how well that turned out. worth the 6 hrs it took to get it right.

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so tomorrow we flare the ends, wrap the pipes and thats the engine bay lines done, moving into the interior lines
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
flared ends of the pipes

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wrapped in tape

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and all fitted

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secured to the chassis

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working inside, removing the useless ABS

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need to remove this hanging ABS plug

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cut off the loom

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and heatshrink each wire, last thing we need is a short on track

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
bolted the bias adjuster to the dash frame

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took afew attempts to figure out the lines to the adjuster correctly with least amount of bends

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bend the pipe

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flared

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and fitted

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cut a section out the lower tray for the adjuster dial

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bolted the t-piece to the tunnel

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had to bend this lip so it doesn't foul the lines

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created line to the t-piece

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and cut a slot for the lines in the lower tray

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gawd this takes ages. only have the rear left/right lines to do tomorrow then reassemble.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Can't wait to see if this improves how my brakes feel. These few days r ticking by but so much to do.

I may also need to book another Blyton session on 11th to get as much track time I can before m8s weddin in may n Germany trip in July.

Feel free to contact me via any means. We'll meet up before Blyton to fit brace n fix Celica n long chat ;)
 
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