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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got some new babys for the toolset :cool:

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getting to those brake pedal bracket nuts behind the steering is still awquid but at least it's now possible :)

noticed the clutch pedal bracket housing is so flimsy. I'll need to stiffen up the bracket somehow to stop the pedal flexing sideways too much.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so this gap in the #1 plug lead is letting oil vapours from the crankcase breather escape as it passes through the rocker cover and perhaps affecting the oil loss

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thought bout ducktaping it but to get a better seal, I cut this bit of new unused rubber that was from the new clutch cable, to form a temporary seal

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trim off the old rubber overhang to give room for the new seal

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which fits like this

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and slots into the plug hole

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and so far so good, zero oil stains around the plug after a trip to work n back.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
when I go full boost I notice the cabin may have a rich exhaust fume smell to it and thought maybe it's leaking from the gaskets?
so this morning sprayed soapy water on the manifold, cold start and spot for any leaking bubbles. leaking abit at one of the studs and a corner of the turbo flange, maybe the previously welded join has a micro crack again?


new bottle of lsd oil arrive too

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to swap to standard setup cos MOT it due next week.
drained gearbox, truely believe the LSD is shot once again cos there's zero preload resistance but won't bother to try fix it anymore. see abit of fine metal particles in the oil from the recent crunching :/

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turbo off

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the metal gasket has corroded slightly at the exposed top. prob won't be using these anymore

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the manifold face is ok but just look at the amount port/gasket mis-alignment, this can't be good for flowrate. either the gasket was nowhere near aligned or the ports are misaligned.

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for some reason this front bit of the heatwrap has worn loose. maybe twas flapping in the wind too much? I'll have to get rid of the wrap suppose.

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oily mist in the inlet and the turbo - IC pipes so the catch can ain't working too well. needs improving eventually.

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the GTIR elbow gasket doing a fab job of sealing

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I doubt these cheap paper/graphite gaskets will hold up on track so thinking of making some copper exhaust manifold gasket from copper sheet plate in hope of sealing against the turbo exhaust gasses for longer. anyone thought of, or tried it before?

saw some 150x150x2mm copper plate on ebay for £7.80 n wonder if I give it a go.
 
Swoping back each year sounds like a right pain in the arse Paul.

Iv never ran a turbo but always found the genuine Nissan exhaust gaskets to be spot on for sealing and not too pricey
 
A few on AOC run homemade copper gaskets to replace the cheap ebay graphite downpipe gaskets that come with ebay manifolds. All hold up well. I imported copper manifold to head gaskets before for an sr20 and they sealed up perfectly too

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Swoping back each year sounds like a right pain in the arse Paul.

Iv never ran a turbo but always found the genuine Nissan exhaust gaskets to be spot on for sealing and not too pricey
it is, and also gotta get the floor patched up.

k I'll try make some copper gasket when I refit the turbo. gotta fix the broken dremel first.
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
I run a copper gasket between the turbine housing & manifold but not to the head.

I used the same gasket type previously before we coated everything and I found them to be below par sealing wise. They work, but only just. I had a spare set but opted for OEM items instead and find them to be much better.

At some point I need to look into a bit of porting too, (similar misalignment), but not until I put a decent head on it.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've been using engine oil or generic grease on my brake caliper guide pins for few year and wondered why they always seem sticky n dry whenever I take em apart but it's only now that I read petroleum based stuff swells rubber so that's why the pulsar guide pins are so grabby.

gotta get myself some castrol red rubber grease thats compatible with rubber, but perhaps may need to replace all the swelled rubber bits too? heard bout 3M silicone paste but it's £22 from usa.
oh I just brought some castrol CV moly grease, since the CV has a rubber boot, wonder if that'll work?
 
Copper grease is apparently bad for the rubber seals. I've heard marine grade grease is very good for brake applications high temp and made to last but I've always used lithium grease for slider pins

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I think I should do it properly from now n get either silicone grease or red rubber grease.
in terms of the current contaminated swollen rubber bits, I think it's too late to treat em cos I highly doubt they'd un-swell when I regrease em with rubber grease.
so to return all the guide pins back to working order I'd have to basically rebuild em with new rubber bits n proper grease.

hmm bike grease, I still have some of that red lithium bicycle bearing grease from back in me biking days. could try it for the time being till I rebuild the calipers.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok lets remove the lower brace to get the downpipe out..loosen the lower arm bolt and this happens, garghhh

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after 6 years, looks like the Alu tig welds finally failed

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not gonna pay another £80 for an expensive thin Alu cusco brace. look around n found a cheaper and beefier steel lower brace by Weichers WE-323002 for £40.77 delivered

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http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/products.php?id=1016858&item=gw323002

removed the decat. gonna have to find some 2" steel pipe to weld in there cos all that rough turbulant area ain't helping.

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new mismatched gaskets

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mani, 1.25" downpipe & alternator on

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definately need to sort out some dual catch can setup to fix this oily residue

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injectors n plugs swapped, filled with new lsd oil, uploaded stock ecu map, went for a drive and she's normal again.

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get her welded up next, MOT and then gotta swap it ALL back again :rolleyes:
 
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You don't hang about, do you?
Regarding the grease. Don't use bike bearing grease. If you need a cheaper alternative, you could maybe try some suspension fork grease. Way way back, down when our cars were new, RockShox used something called Judy Butter. That won't damage the rubber parts for sure. Don't know about the heat issue though.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You don't hang about, do you?
Regarding the grease. Don't use bike bearing grease. If you need a cheaper alternative, you could maybe try some suspension fork grease. Way way back, down when our cars were new, RockShox used something called Judy Butter. That won't damage the rubber parts for sure. Don't know about the heat issue though.
naa I get stuck in & over with fast cos MOT is due next week.
well the pulsar brakes will get very hot on track so I think I'll get the red rubber grease from demontweeks
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've always used copper slip too paul never have issues with any brakes I've had in the past :)
copper grease on the outside, yes, but for the rubber bits inside I found that all of my lubes/grease are petroleum based n tend to eventually swell the rubber causing some issues.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
K driving to work in stock setup this morning I noticed afew differences to the turbo.

Cold start piston slap?
setting off in the morning with the turbo, when I drive off n apply some load on a cold engine I'd hear what sounds like piston slap and thought the cold forged pistons must be too slack at first and then once warm it's abit less knocky.

With the stock exhaust and injectors there's no piston slapping noise at all, just a smooth quiet engine.

Low rev labouring knock/rattle noise
In the turbo when the revs are below 1700rpm and I apply load, I hear a sort of clangy loose rattling noise like when an old style engine is about to stall.

In the stock setup I hear none of that.

Brake pedal rattle
Recently in the turbo, the very worn loose brake pedal arm begin to rattle badly at 2800-3100rpm and needed to rest my foot on it to stop it.

This morning in the stock setup, it hasn't rattled at the same speed.

Injector Noise
The sr20de turbo injectors are very audiable n clicky.

the stock injectors are very quiet n smooth.

Exhaust Backfire
When warm idling, the turbo setup always causes the exhaust to randomly cough.

In the stock setup it's smooth and doesn't cough.

So my overall assessment is that most of these issues are caused by the big injectors. prob needs cleaning/overhauling.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just submitted a request at injectortune.co.uk to clean the turbo injectors for £56 posted

I wonder, if the cleaned injectors actually perform better n end up spraying too much rich fuel than before, I may need remapping?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
phoned local welder and he aint back till monday so hav to wait till then before the mot on thurs.

also just heard bout andys scary over-stress incident and best let him recover naturally :) get well andy.

today fixing the flexing clutch pedal
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so here's the weak clutch pedal bracket, free to twist around via the 2 rear studs

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advanced CAD design :p

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cut

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weld on

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wanted to remove this stopper bolt to gain more pedal travel

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so drilled the spot weld off

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bent the lower edge to match the pedal

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so now the bracket is abit stiffer and more travel. although the pivot bush did have a fraction mm of play so it ain't totally eliminated but reduced.

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fitted and hard to tell but the sideways play maybe reduced abit.

the increased pedal rest height and travel meant there's less stress on the clutch mechanism when resting and also enough travel to guarantee the clutch is fully disengaged when pressed.

so basically all the pedals are close to worn out but I'll eventually either replace em or upgrade em to ball bearing bushes.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hmm I'm thinking maybe remove the spring in the clutch pedal so that I'm not fighting against both the pedal spring and the pressure plate?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
found the box label for the thick k11 automatic radiator I'm using

http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-44#post-502988

it's by Nissen, model # 629871 bout £65-70

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this is what's inside a cusco lower strut brace

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James from injectortune.co.uk got back to me bout cleaning the injectors. paypalled him £57 so lets remove and pack em

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injectors removed, packed n ready to post

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time to look at the turbo and Oohh look at this, one of the bolt holding the turbine housing to the core has rattled off and therefore was the cause of allowing exhaust fumes to escape into the bay during boost and stink the cabin

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another note: don't heatwrap mild steel bits cos it just traps moisture while the steel underneath also rusts layers off, old hardened wrap just crumbles off.

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bolts abit seized, heat and patience loosened em. gonna replace with stainless

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turbines fine

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and another loose missing actuator mount bolt

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turbine housing off

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turbo all stripped and few bits need replacing.

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the other day also tried steam cleaning inside the engine by pointing and injecting the steam past the MAF filament whilst opening the throttle with other hand to hold revs up n stop it stalling. dunno if it did much but was worth a try.

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tday got the floor welded £40, he just welded a plate over it from the inside. ready for MOT on thursday

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I see what you mean about the turbo :eek:
I'd just asked in our conversation what was up, should've thought to look here first
:) u know I always update everything here asap.

just ordered aload of bits online, this ain't pretty on the credit card.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
All in the name of health for the car
I've been buying bits in the name of health too... but more for me than my car :p
should always look after yourself first before anything else as mom says cos everything else will depend on urself.

tis like in full metal jacket,
#This is my micra. There are many others like it, but this one is mine.
My micra is my best friend. It is my life.
I must master it as I must master my life.
Without me, my micra is useless. Without my micra, I am useless.
I must drive my micra well. I must drive faster than the others, who are trying to catch me.
I must overtake them before they overtake me# :p
 
should always look after yourself first before anything else as mom says cos everything else will depend on urself.

tis like in full metal jacket,
[HASHTAG]#This[/HASHTAG] is my micra. There are many others like it, but this one is mine.
My micra is my best friend. It is my life.
I must master it as I must master my life.
Without me, my micra is useless. Without my micra, I am useless.
I must drive my micra well. I must drive faster than the others, who are trying to catch me.
I must overtake them before they overtake me# :p
Oh Paul :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
whilst waiting for the bits to arrive, lets do abit of cleaning.
wiped the compressor and slightly file smooth the rough tip edges which had previouslybeen struck by paper debris few yrs back

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tried to wirebrush the very rough thick layer of caked carbon on the turbine blades

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wirebrush polish the compressor housing

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cleaned n painted the turbine housing. it'll obviously burn off but worth a lick of paint

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SirChris

Educated Bodger
All in the name of health for the car
I've been buying bits in the name of health too... but more for me than my car :p
should always look after yourself first before anything else as mom says cos everything else will depend on urself.

tis like in full metal jacket,
[HASHTAG]#This[/HASHTAG] is my micra. There are many others like it, but this one is mine.
My micra is my best friend. It is my life.
I must master it as I must master my life.
Without me, my micra is useless. Without my micra, I am useless.
I must drive my micra well. I must drive faster than the others, who are trying to catch me.
I must overtake them before they overtake me# :p
Like my late father said, "#### them all, they're all a bunch of cunts" wisdom .. Right there
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
car passed MOT :)

the few advisorys a joke.
rear view missing (meh don't use it nor essentially required).
both front tyres running low and tried to sell me cheap crap Matador MP44 lol. no thanks I already have a new set at home plus I know for fact they're at 3 - 3.5mm, 1.6mm minimum, 8mm new, so the fronts are actually at 30% and no where near low :D

neway now lets rebuild the turbo n commence getting it back together again before end of month.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
eek better get started. so I'll fit the turbo, pop to urs for tyre fitting, corner balance with new tyres again, before cadwell n blyton.

you've got a heart of gold on the mend, so let that fix itself naturally before any pushing :cool:
 
eek better get started. so I'll fit the turbo, pop to urs for tyre fitting, corner balance with new tyres again, before cadwell n blyton.

you've got a heart of gold on the mend, so let that fix itself naturally before any pushing :cool:
Sounds like a good plan

Ta Paul. It's getting there, baby steps :)
 
The 370cc purple DET injectors I previously used were also very "clicky" when running. My new STI 513cc injectors doesn't make any noise at all. I don't think the clicking is affecting performance, but I can agree that it was annoying :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The 370cc purple DET injectors I previously used were also very "clicky" when running. My new STI 513cc injectors doesn't make any noise at all. I don't think the clicking is affecting performance, but I can agree that it was annoying :p
googling other forums seem to suggest it's a common norm for em to be noisy
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
received few things this week off ebay. stainless threaded bar for replacing rusty manifold studs, nuts n bolts for the turbo, T28 gasket, copper plate in hope of making a manifold gasket, red rubber grease for brakes and manifold gaskets

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and it's the metal mesh type of manifold gasket that I like so I now know where to get it from

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big tub of rubber grease

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fresh stainless fasteners for the turbo. housing painted in high temp matt black. doubt it'll stay like that soon but least it looks good for now.

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grind some of the manifold rough edges down

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admiring the cleaned n painted turbo :cool:

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the manifold flange is heavily warped :/

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tried to bend the outer corners of the flange to move the contact area closer within the bolt holes to reduce leaking

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turbo is ready

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my cleaned injectors arrived tday since I sent em on wednesday, speedy service :)

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cleaned n serviced

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and the report, tiny slightly clogged and one of em flowed more than the rest.

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hopefully this will mean a more consistant fuel delivery across the whole rail for whatever fuel trim the ecu learns and less random misfires.
so now with the extra fuel capacity from 360 to the full 370cc I wonder if that would mean at WOT on track in open-loop, would the current ecu map simply run abit richer than when it was originally dyno mapped?

lets fit em:cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fuel rail wirebrushed clean, sprayed matt black and fitted the fresh puppies :cool:
the 1/2 broken pintle was still not replaced cos as report says they didn't have any but it ain't important.

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