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PollyMobiles Rebuild

drand

1st Micraversary!
That looks like awesome fun to do, must have a go myself someday ^_^
No time like the present Jen! Both Farnborough and Southsea motor clubs put on Autosolos that are similar, plus Farnborough have some demo/taster days later in the summer. Love to see more Micras in motorsport!
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
No time like the present Jen! Both Farnborough and Southsea motor clubs put on Autosolos that are similar, plus Farnborough have some demo/taster days later in the summer. Love to see more Micras in motorsport!
What I am near farnbourough... When
 
Nice one Paul. Didn't realise you had another trackside video of mine :p

Good to get POV going around to see how tight it really was.
We thought you deserved recognition for travelling such a distance :) glad it pleased you

You ready for the next one? :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
That looks like awesome fun to do, must have a go myself someday ^_^
was certainly a more laid back casual non-timed type of fun compared to a high-speed, high-risk, high-stress, go-fast-as-you-can, scare-ur-pants-off type trackdays.

cos the scoring focus was more about careful precision, u can just take ur time at ur own pace and preserve ur car. speed is optional but me n andy couldn't resist :p

keep n eye out for the vast range of club or track events around ur area.
some are bout speed, some are bout precision or simply fun day out. some are expensive all-day massive organised events, some are really affordable small community events.

there's bound to be an event that suits ones needs, ask around for guidance on what type of events are available, whats involved, all the factors and prep to consider, youtube the event to see whats its like, pick an event and just go for it.
talking and aspiring bout it is one thing. finding as much info to fulfill ur doubts and commiting to doing it is quite another experience and prob the hardest thing at first.
but once u do it once, u gain experience for next time.
 
First time nerves, everyone gets em, even I had my reservations on the first run and I think that contributed to my utter failure on the first run :p I kept expecting the car to fall apart
Took it apart today Paul... found out the burning smell... CV grease on the exhaust, and everywhere else for that matter :p I'd used cable ties for the CV boots as temporary forgotten turned permanent solution :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
First time nerves, everyone gets em, even I had my reservations on the first run and I think that contributed to my utter failure on the first run :p I kept expecting the car to fall apart
Took it apart today Paul... found out the burning smell... CV grease on the exhaust, and everywhere else for that matter :p I'd used cable ties for the CV boots as temporary forgotten turned permanent solution :p
first times are always the worst/scariest (almost spun at a wet rockingham, blooming stalled at santapod lol) but it gets better.

mine are ziptied too and holds up fine most the time
u have grease on exhaust, I have constant oil spray down the RH side and during junctions the downpipe smells of burnt oil.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
andy, think there's a minor issue with the rose joints.

recently since the autotest, I've noticed a slight occasional quiet knocking in the rear RH when driving in town.

thought it was the rear caliper guide pins which had abit of play, so applied abit of handbrake whilst driving to try n see if it restrains and usually silences a loose rear caliper, but nope still knocks so its not the caliper.

jacked up the rear to check around and felt a slight 0.1mm play in the rear rosejoint droplinks. believe this is whats been causing the noise

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fitted the stiffer standard links on n check tomorrow if that silences it

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so seems the rosejoints are great for adjustability, minimal resistance and snug tolerance when new but not as durable under daily use causing knocking noises. perhaps only use em on track and then the standard links elsewhere.
 

frank

Club Member
those are the same rosejoints we used on the fleet karts paul, they dont last very long without any ingress protection eh
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aye. ya think it's the soft brass lining that doesn't like the constant hammering of daily long use, coupled with the open ends exposed to all sorts of water, dirt n grit wearing em out fast?
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
aye. ya think it's the soft brass lining that doesn't like the constant hammering of daily long use, coupled with the open ends exposed to all sorts of water, dirt n grit wearing em out fast?
Could you use some ladies secret socks to protect them. The type which stay hidden when wearing low cut heeled shoes.? Would sit nicely around with elastic to keep them on.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Could you use some ladies secret socks to protect them. The type which stay hidden when wearing low cut heeled shoes.? Would sit nicely around with elastic to keep them on.
like these womens no-show socks?

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I think trying to protect the rosejoint now is abit pointless cos they've already worn loose and won't get any better
plus its decided that they're only gonna be used during the short track events where minor rattle/knocking ain't a problem while the stock droplinks are used for daily.

if I was to protect them, I'd prob get the sewing machine & waterproof leggings out again n custom make my own covers like on my coilovers.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
or both. silicone paste to keep air out and the bearings lubed while the cover keeps the paste in and the outside elements out.
 

Enuo

Glorified Electrician
Or get PTFE cupped rose joints instead of brass ones so they're self lubricating, and then smother them in silicone ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'm sure I mentioned the need for rubber boots to protect them :p
Have they enough clearance without the spacers?
yea u did :p

when I position the droplink onto the rear swaybars Hard setting, the angled swaybar arm moves the linkage inwards at a steep angle relative to the chassis mount above.
so without the 1nut lower spacer and 2nut upper spacer, the rosejoint link would simply bind running out of movement and foul the swaybar and chassis mount flange.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
we'll check it out next time when we patch the rear floor hole.

meanwhile my old fujitsu t4010 laptop I use for nistune decided to completely die, won't power up at all.

I'm gonna ebay for a spare t4010 laptop to try n swap n diagnose the faulty parts. if that doesn't work then there goes my nissan datascan & nistune software license and may have to buy a new £30 datascan and £110 nistune licenses along with a new laptop :/
 
we'll check it out next time when we patch the rear floor hole.

meanwhile my old fujitsu t4010 laptop I use for nistune decided to completely die, won't power up at all.

I'm gonna ebay for a spare t4010 laptop to try n swap n diagnose the faulty parts. if that doesn't work then there goes my nissan datascan & nistune software license and may have to buy a new £30 datascan and £110 nistune licenses along with a new laptop :/
See, I was also worried about breaking my tuning laptop because of this. Then I found out that Nismotronic gets you a new reactivation license in cases like these. Surely Nistune would be the same(they are almost the same thing lol)?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Dude ur license is retrievable by the website for data scan. You get three licence key renewals if I remember. Nistune would no doubt be done via an online account too.
yea 3 keys for datascan but used em all on some laptops & desktops over the yrs, cant remember which.
nistune, only had the one activation key via email when I purchased my license.
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
yea 3 keys for datascan but used em all on some laptops & desktops over the yrs, cant remember which.
nistune, only had the one activation key via email when I purchased my license.
The trick is, the old hard drives and computers are now destroyed and recycled. That statement means you are entitled to use the product as all old unique machines no longer exist.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
taking off the rear brakes to fit longer studs.

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the 12mm guide pin bolts once again abit stuck and erroding smaller than 12mm so was difficult to remove

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i small lip of the rear bearing seal is slightly damaged

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disc was slightly seized onto the hub, few taps of the hammer seperated it

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hammer the stud off the hub on a vice

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longer stud vs standard

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but perhaps they're too long. the wheel nut at the top has been screwed all the way into the longer studs while the nut on the standard stud below would be where they currently sit.
there's at least a 10mm difference, which would have to be cut off for all 8 studs

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another issue is look at the splines. there's more teeth on the new studs compared to the standard, so they won't slot into the hub without damage :(
so I can't use these longer studs and can't space out the rear wheels safely. bah gonna have to sell em on.

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removed the rear splash plate, get more air on the discs

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grinded the rounded guide pin bolts down to 11mm

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rear brakes reassembled

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removed the LH splash plate

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
too much work removing/replacing all the trailing arm bolts & wirebrush/paint the axle only to end up rusting in winter again.

reading abit ppl with mis-matched new studs, apparantly they are an interference fit and the new teeth will simply cut/wedge themselves into the hole when tightened up. perhaps cut the studs abit shorter & try again another time.
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
too much work removing/replacing all the trailing arm bolts & wirebrush/paint the axle only to end up rusting in winter again.

reading abit ppl with mis-matched new studs, apparantly they are an interference fit and the new teeth will simply cut/wedge themselves into the hole when tightened up. perhaps cut the studs abit shorter & try again another time.
I remember Joe having a set which next settled in straight a bearing push would no doubt make it fit well and true as long as the hub was off the car.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I remember Joe having a set which next settled in straight a bearing push would no doubt make it fit well and true as long as the hub was off the car.
I fit the hub onto the wheel, align the stud splines to the hole and use the wheel nuts to pull the stud all the way through into the hub
 

SirChris

Educated Bodger
I fit the hub onto the wheel, align the stud splines to the hole and use the wheel nuts to pull the stud all the way through into the hub
Did it fit straight with no issues? Joes looked straight but when you put a wheel on you realise how a slight angle is hidden but created large dimension differences at the stud ends
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Did it fit straight with no issues? Joes looked straight but when you put a wheel on you realise how a slight angle is hidden but created large dimension differences at the stud ends
I didn't fit the new studs into the hub cos of the different # of splines and thought it'd wreck it. I'm sure if it was pulled into the hub and tightened evenly as mentioned above, it'd remain straight.
 
If they're subaru studs then you have more splines and they won't fit. Got 16 sat redundant in the shed
If they're 63mm long they're for 25mm spacers :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
If they're subaru studs then you have more splines and they won't fit. Got 16 sat redundant in the shed
If they're 63mm long they're for 25mm spacers :)
dunno what they're off, just got off ebay yrs ago described as extension studs for k11. they seem really long so yeah prob for 25mm space but would cut em to fit
 
ok to use or would they just wreck themselves?
some sites say they're a press-fit so the number of teeth doesn't matter cos they simply cut n wedge themselves into the hole

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/wheels/wl103a.htm
I got one in "successfully" and the splines never really deformed from memory. I still have them all here for you to inspect if you wish :)
But as Andy said, a big press is required, which I can get us access to if needs be

I've got to go with a wider track anyways so I'll be looking at my options
There's the Grayston 32mm ones, never used them before but I've heard horror stories and lots of praise I can only assume there was no ingenuity involved whilst fitting the stud extensions

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Grayston-...-Kit-4-Stud-M12x1-25-32mm-Thick-/301180107633

Also got
Bolt on spacers, safe route but expensive
Widen the working components, guaranteed safety and efficiency but a lot of work and new set of custom driveshafts for me in that case
Back to the extended studs
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Paul, pretty sure they're the same studs i've got on mine without issues (apart from drum clearance where the splines come a little bit too far through -- nothing a drill bit didn't solve.). Even installed them with just a suitable nut and some sockets / washers to spread the load all heavily greased just to be safe.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday trimmed down the thread bar sticking out the passenger ballast

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front right tyre started to leak again so resealed with another screw

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changed the oil & filter

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but after checking around, was curious if these 10mm bolts were tight. it turns out that most of the sumps front bolts were shaken abit looser and hence may have contributed to the rapid oil loss and messy RH oil stain. wipe the stains away and keeping an eye on it.

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did another compression test and it seems all the readings have stabilised and are all exactly the same at 10.3bars and all the plugs look similar.

was gonna laser align the wheels but cba
 
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